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LED and BUD QUALITY

Hiddenjems

Well-known member
Looks mean nothing.. Hemp can be as frosty as drug type weed. The only way to measure quality is to smoke some.
Are you not understanding? I’m not saying visible trichomes are proof of quality. I’m saying cannabis with no resin glands won’t get you high.

Where else will the effect inducing compounds come from?
 

greyfader

Well-known member
Are you not understanding? I’m not saying visible trichomes are proof of quality. I’m saying cannabis with no resin glands won’t get you high.

Where else will the effect inducing compounds come from?
i have never seen a cannabis plant with no, as in zero, resin glands.

the quantity, density, and size of trichomes are not visual indicators of potency. there is no correlation between the visual appearance of trichomes and potency. of course, cannabis plants have resin glands, but some that do not seem like they have very many can be more potent than some that are visually covered with them.

i have personally grown plants that looked like they would knock you down but had disappointing potency.

others i have grown that did not look like they had many at all were as potent as it gets with cannabis.
 

goingrey

Well-known member
i never dim anything. i blast them right from the start because i want to drive the metabolic rate as hard as possible. if you are showing any nutrient displays under intense lighting you need a stronger feed.
Do you use regular grow fertilizer at a higher strength or what? I tried that this round but have a feeling would have been better off with just dimmed lights and less food.
 

greyfader

Well-known member
Do you use regular grow fertilizer at a higher strength or what? I tried that this round but have a feeling would have been better off with just dimmed lights and less food.
howdy! well, to start with, i am using a closed circuit recirculating soilless system with a continuous liquid feed known as the PPK system. it is very easy for me to correct feed strength.

i use Jack's 5-12-26 with calcinit and mag sulfate. all water soluble and very easy to adjust. but, i've been using this system since sept 2009 and no longer have to adjust anything because i know what works and what doesn't.

i root clones with 400ppm or ec.8 under about 500 umols ppfd. as soon as roots develop i go to about 600ppm and 750 umols for a couple of weeks. then it's ec2 or 1000ppm at up to 1500 umols ppfd for life.

i push them hard all the way to acclimate the plants to a high metabolic rate environment.

i control light intensity by moving the lights up and down instead of dimming.

i don't know what growing method you are using or if you are in a tent or not. maybe if you explained how you are growing i could offer some suggestions.

i have a grow going on right now at


here are a couple of recent pics of a plant that just finished the second week of flower.

this plant is getting about 1400-1500 umols ppfd for 12 hours which is about 62-64 mols per period. a very intense light field. it is being fed with about ec2 or 1000ppm solution. no co2.

the plant is growing at a very fast rate and is not showing any displays at all. no spots, no yellowing, or any other problems. if you blow up the pics you can see that they are handling these intense conditions just fine. cannabis is a high-light plant.
 

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Cerathule

Well-known member
Are you not understanding? I’m not saying visible trichomes are proof of quality. I’m saying cannabis with no resin glands won’t get you high.

Where else will the effect inducing compounds come from?
Sounds like you think cannabinoids occur exclusively within trichomes? That's wrong. They are just most concentrated there. Actually the whole plant produces them, even roots.
 

Thegreengrower64

Well-known member
You’re the ones that can’t tell the difference between brown brick weed and a flower worth smoking.

I’ve been growing for a living since 2003.

Yes visual identification is a part of potency.

I grow entire crops never going over 72* just for the increased terps, which lead to greater potency.
🤣🤣🤣..jeez
 

greyfader

Well-known member
Source???
Then you couldn't grow seedlings with even less, like 150ppfd. Which, people actually do...
good morning! thank you for asking about my sources. i think i read that 200 umols was the compensation point for cannabis many years ago but i wasn't sure so i used the terms "suggested" and "around".

the conversation was about how much light you would need to use for intracanopy lighting to turn a plant part into a source of energy rather than a sink for energy.

you caused me to do a lot of reading this morning and i found a bunch of interesting articles but not much research specific to cannabis on this subject.

there seem to be a lot of different and conflicting conclusions reached in different studies.

but i did find a graph or two that may help.
 

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Ca++

Well-known member
I do like to see a good frosting. It might not be the ultimate guide to potency. It has certainly been wrong at times. Overall though, it's not a bad indication of how strong something is going to be. Lots of people want that bag appeal, to make more sales. It's an established idea, whether we like it or not.

If someone messes up, or chops early, the chances of having a good frost are certainly lower. So at a glance, I will have lower expectations of weed without a good covering.


I don't doubt that a well frosted weed can have little effect. Hemp flowers offer solid proof of this. I would still have to smoke a lot to really accept it though. It's just expectations though, not clear science. On average, more frost is a good thing.

A few years back, white strains were popular. It seemed to start with the widow. The rhino was popular to. They had commercial value, but whatever the white bit was, did seem rather poor imo. Lots of frost, but a weak sour milk taste, and a hit that was never making it much past 6pm.
I'm sure the states got them to, but perhaps with different names.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
good morning! thank you for asking about my sources. i think i read that 200 umols was the compensation point for cannabis many years ago but i wasn't sure so i used the terms "suggested" and "about".

the conversation was about how much light you would need to use for intracanopy lighting to turn a plant part into a source of energy rather than a sink for energy.

you caused me to do a lot of reading this morning and i found a bunch of interesting articles but not much research specific to cannabis on this subject.

there seem to be a lot of different and conflicting conclusions reached in different studies.

but i did find a graph or two that may help.

The compensation point is higher with a densely packed crop, to a plant illuminated from all angles.

What we are talking about, is the light needed to stop the whole plant from dying. If you only light the top of a deep crop, you might need 250umol. However, a seedling or cutting can survive with around 75umol. It won't do anything though. It will just grow at a rate that combats death through lack of light,


So we have crop level and leaf level numbers to look at.


In the context of interlighting, I have enough light over my crop to keep it all alive, although some of the lower stuff might be parasitic. Then I add my interlighting, to get the underneath of the crop to 200umol. The buds are not growing like 200umol though. They are growing on a plant that just received 200umol more, and are buds in a location worth developing. The growth defies expectations.

I'm wishing I hadn't raised this topic before the current results are in. I would really like to get all this together on a single topic. Some of this is golden, and could be a good resource. I'm having thoughts about duplicating some of these posts over to a separate thread, once this latest study is done. As we have interlighting posts scattered everywhere at the moment.
 

exoticrobotic

Well-known member
A few years back, white strains were popular. It seemed to start with the widow. The rhino was popular to. They had commercial value, but whatever the white bit was, did seem rather poor imo. Lots of frost, but a weak sour milk taste, and a hit that was never making it much past 6pm.

Baby sick White Widow, the milky pukey musky funky one, fuely indica White Rhino and sour bleachy sativa White Rhino were great smokes, well well above average.

The street White Widow i smoked for a while was pure giggle weed, the White Rhino was excellent too. Very euphoric and trippy with some nice depth to it

A few years back

This was nearly 30 years ago so more than a few years back. Maybe those genetics had gone to shit by that time or something else happened
 

Ca++

Well-known member
I knew a few people that would agree with you, but it's a prospective thing. I would turn up at where people had been smoking those for hours, open my tin, and all you would smell was mine. Milky isn't the description of something with lots of smell.

The strength is hard to convey in such literary terms. They were alright, but could only take you so far.
The sheer amount of crystal, if thought of as a judge of strength, wasn't in alignment. That was why I picked these as examples of where appearance isn't everything. Though you really wanted it, when presented with the menu samples.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
signify-thc-side-flower-canopy-lighting.jpg


With or without LEDs.
As florescent tubes are now banned in the UK (and the EU I imagine) interlighting is really just an LED topic.
Here, bud quality is improved considerably.

Bin or Bud, is the difference in quality.
 

Charles Dankens

Well-known member
Regarding the trichome coverage, IHG, maker of many platinum strains, has fantastic frost but not the potency you might expect based on the presentation.

Reading through the thread about Kali and Western Winds grower(s) mentioned KM plants with heavy frost. I've never had that experience but I've grown a few that had exceptional effects.

Plant in pic grown under chill led 500. I ran out of flower room space this week so now she is outside. Its about 11. 5 daylight and 10 degrees cooler. Hope the autumn conditions speed up the ripening.


10-2-kali-fem.gif

Kali Mist
fem, day 82
 
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goingrey

Well-known member
true but i'm still using very intense lighting and rarely move the lights once the plant reaches the scrog net.

what method are you using to grow the plant?
I've just got a tiny tent with a tiny LED. Earlier I have been dimming for veg. This time I opted not to with heavier fertilizing in hopes of speeding things up. Maybe it did, who knows, but the plants did not look happy so I'm guessing not. Too many shades of green with slightly shaded parts looking most lush. Next time I think I will dim again. Now I'm in flowering already and for that I have always had the light on full blast.
 

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