brotherjericho
Member
Can't really tell by the pic, but it appears you LSTed these plants? Or did you just top and fim, and the strings are there for another purpose?
DIY Hybrid LED/PL-L Luminaire
- Thread starter rives
- Start date
Can't really tell by the pic, but it appears you LSTed these plants? Or did you just top and fim, and the strings are there for another purpose?
They were topped and LST'd. I normally run a scrog, but I was trying to keep better access this time because the plants had such a rough start.
brotherjericho
Member
Another question, what size is your tent/cab? I'm wanting to LST next go round, but wondering how to deal with space.
Bio boy
Active member
plants reflect green light thats why we see them as green. they can not absorb it
Excellent! Quality design and craftsmanship! I design/build and integrate large Energy management and computer control systems for refrigeration, HVAC and lighting as custom for the retail, wholesale and distribution world. Primarily refrigeration on a large size/scale. I have built many a panel and I am picky as hell. That is a clean, orderly and well put together design! Very nice work.
Not a LED believer here as they do not cover the whole spectrum (especialy green), so the PLLs are appreciated!!!!!
Actually, recent studies show that plants do use green light. This utilization only kicks in when the blue and red have hit saturation levels.
Mr Apricot
Member
Amazing build! Those pics have beautiful spectrum. Very natural looking light! Hats off to you sir Rives.
that's one fine looking piece of machinery sir.
i was thinking of building a '76 triumph bonneville,
but i think i may just do one of these instead.
i was thinking of building a '76 triumph bonneville,
but i think i may just do one of these instead.
2000pm
Member
Hey Rives some questions...
If you were to do this over again, would you change the LED configuration in there or still just supplement with the far reds? You stated back there that green gets used once blue and red saturation hits - how about adding additional blue and subsequently green to the mix? Or maybe just adding whites to boost the overall spectrum?
My led bars will be thinner and contain less diodes as well overall so how does one determine this "saturation" point (or if I can even hit this, since if I cannot it makes the task of deciding to add greens a lot easier) of the red/blues. I'll probably end up slapping together a kit from one of the many providers out there like rapidled so it doesn't look like there is a lack of different wavelengths available - just the cost block with each going for 5 bucks!
If you were to do this over again, would you change the LED configuration in there or still just supplement with the far reds? You stated back there that green gets used once blue and red saturation hits - how about adding additional blue and subsequently green to the mix? Or maybe just adding whites to boost the overall spectrum?
My led bars will be thinner and contain less diodes as well overall so how does one determine this "saturation" point (or if I can even hit this, since if I cannot it makes the task of deciding to add greens a lot easier) of the red/blues. I'll probably end up slapping together a kit from one of the many providers out there like rapidled so it doesn't look like there is a lack of different wavelengths available - just the cost block with each going for 5 bucks!
If you take a look at the spd charts for PL-L's, you will see that their only real weakness is in the far red area. I've been very satisfied in the past with my straight PL-L fixture (6x55w), and even more so with this one. It is very likely that it could be helped even further, but I really wouldn't have any idea where to start.
Again, I wouldn't have the slightest idea how to determine if you have saturated out the red & blue - perhaps by adding some green and seeing if your results improve. If so, then you must have been close to saturation, if not.... There isn't a good way to measure the red output above 630nm without a spectrometer. Quantum meters only give accurate results up to around 600-630, although the manufacturer's keep the warning about that in the fine print.
Again, I wouldn't have the slightest idea how to determine if you have saturated out the red & blue - perhaps by adding some green and seeing if your results improve. If so, then you must have been close to saturation, if not.... There isn't a good way to measure the red output above 630nm without a spectrometer. Quantum meters only give accurate results up to around 600-630, although the manufacturer's keep the warning about that in the fine print.
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Rives, et al: Got a question If you are growing a minimum of 2 plants that will be ~ 4ft+ tall, could PLLs be dropped vertically and if so, without a reflector, would one PLL side light 2 plants?
Also thinking of a horizontal bar long enough to hang 2 PLLs horizontally + one PLL hanging vertically on a long cord in between them to cover penetration . Thoughts?
Also thinking of a horizontal bar long enough to hang 2 PLLs horizontally + one PLL hanging vertically on a long cord in between them to cover penetration . Thoughts?
PF, I think PL-Ls run vertically are a great option. The "High Pod" was the thread that got me interested in these lights initially, and they obviously worked well in the vertical orientation there. 4' might be a bit much - it might be better to use a couple of 55w lamps end-to-end at roughly 22" of length each. Perhaps staggering/alternating them? Dropping them between the plants without reflectors would also work well.
To clarify, I meant the power cord length, but it appears PLLs are pretty long, so if used vertically to side light, then maybe a ft cord + bulb.
Considering that the vertical bulbs would only be used as supplemental light during late veg-harvest, which K bulb would you recommend... and does each bulb require its' own ballast, or can they be piggybacked?
Got a llnk to High Pod, or is it on IC? think I found it. The title is The High Pod by inefectualize? http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=92259&page=3
Sorry, didn't understand about the cord. Most of the applications that I have seen, other than the fixtures from HTG Supply, are DIY applications. I'm not sure what the maximum lead length is that Fulham recommends for the Workhorse series of ballasts, but the kits from AH Supply come with a very nice cord about 6' long with a snug-fitting shroud over the socket, so you can remote quite a ways from the ballast.
I've run lamps from 2700k to 4100k with good results. Supposedly the visual difference in fluorescent lamps is more apparent to the human eye as a result of the way the phosphors work, and doesn't really make as much difference to the plants as other types of lighting. The High Pod (you found the correct link) used all 4100k lamps with excellent results.
The ballasts are rated by wattage, so depending on the wattage of the lamps, you can run several. All of mine are Workhorse 5's pushing (2) 55w lamps, but the Workhorse 7 & 8 have been used to push (4) 55w lamps successfully. This exceeds Fulhams spec for the ballast - they recommend a maximum of (3) 55w lamps.
:jawdrop: awesome work rives.
P.S.: Question about the PL-L reflectors, what kind of material is it? I'm planning to buy some stuff and try to build myself a simple pll reflector of course nothing like your work that's for sure... i only saw aluminum and steel for sale, they're not very reflective as the chorme ones you use and the ones i see in some of the fixtures shops sell.
P.S.: Question about the PL-L reflectors, what kind of material is it? I'm planning to buy some stuff and try to build myself a simple pll reflector of course nothing like your work that's for sure... i only saw aluminum and steel for sale, they're not very reflective as the chorme ones you use and the ones i see in some of the fixtures shops sell.
Thanks, DSA. The reflectors are made from Miro 4, which is a German product. It is specular aluminum with a special coating on it, and they apparently make several different varieties of it. The PL-L kits, including the reflectors, came from AHSupply.com. They build very nice, complete kits. If you are building up PL-L fixtures, it's pretty hard to put together the components any cheaper than they offer the kits for.
http://ahsupply.com/36-55w.htm
http://ahsupply.com/36-55w.htm
