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Coco Tree's

Deprivation

Active member
Here is a coco tree lol. Great info on here.

picture.php
 
To DJM (or anyone else that wants to answer)... When running wet/dry cycles early on to establish a dense root ball, what happens in regards to salts build up in the coco and how do you handle that? Plain water flushes to get the run-off ppm where you want it? Lower feed EC to prevent build-up in the first place? Or is it not a concern due to short vegging times?
 

HqFarms

Member
To DJM (or anyone else that wants to answer)... When running wet/dry cycles early on to establish a dense root ball, what happens in regards to salts build up in the coco and how do you handle that? Plain water flushes to get the run-off ppm where you want it? Lower feed EC to prevent build-up in the first place? Or is it not a concern due to short vegging times?

What I do is for the next few waterings shoot for about 50% runoff. After about 3 days of excessive runoff I start doing multiple feeds to keep them moist not saturated. The only way I do this is with a cheap moisture meter. I'm a minimal runoff person once the drippers are on. My girls get about 1.2 gallons a day and I get about a cup of runoff a day.
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
Hi waxi,
In between transplants, on dry cycle days where the pot is still heavy from excess water, but the top or original root ball is dry, i saturate that area with just enough feed water to moisten it. Sometimes with a rootbound plant i will loosen up the root mass by lightly working it with my fingers. I think it makes it a little easier for the roots to spread quicker in the new pot.

Check ur starting runoff ec, n flush it down closer to ur starting ec. Ive been getting some pretty hot stuff right out of the bag that stalled growth after transplant, till i started flushing n checking durring transplant.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
Lightly score the root ball. Not enough to sever all the roots but just enough to cut a few. About 5% is good. This will encourage new root growth at the cut spots.

I give them light water after one good soaking. I place this on the root ball. Enough to keep the plant alive and make it search for water in the new media. Dont let the new media dry out. But dont keep it soaking wet.
 

onavelzy

Active member
Veteran
What kinda coco you running MM? I'm using atami

I'll keep the ec low when I transplant, good idea.

I would break apart the roots but it's usually very dense and I'm not able to break them apart without ripping a whole chunk off.

Here's a drip cap from floraflex I saw today that might help those with a irrigation system.

Anybody try these yet?

https://floraflex.com/product/3″-circulator-12-pack/

I din't see the utility of the Floraflex Matrix system. It seems overly complex for what it is doing. First of all, the plastic lid that disperses the water doesn't look like it has a groove that allows you to slide it past the stem of a plant already in a pot. The holes through the circulator caps seem pretty small, so i'd wonder if they would clog from nutrients and minerals. And why the need for a pad on the soil surface. Why not just let it drain out from the circulator to the soil medium?

My last grow, I used some of their square floracaps on my smartpots to make the water drain down to the coco in many places, not just two with the dual tubing to each pot that I had running.

This run, I'm using air pots and those caps don't fit those pots so i just went with the two 3/8 tubes running directly to each pot. Seems like the medium and plants are all working the same so I don't know that any of that dispersal stuff is needed
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
If you just dish the top like a bowl the nutrient solution will sit in the middle till it filters down into the pot.
 
This is an epic amount of info.

I am going to try out this theory this winter, what are you guys waiting for outside temps to be before using it to cool the room? Of course it depends on wattage, has anyone figured out a chart? Say for 6000 watts you need it to be 25 degrees out or below, or some such thing.
 

stoney917

i Am SoFaKiNg WeTod DiD
Veteran
This is an epic amount of info.

I am going to try out this theory this winter, what are you guys waiting for outside temps to be before using it to cool the room? Of course it depends on wattage, has anyone figured out a chart? Say for 6000 watts you need it to be 25 degrees out or below, or some such thing.

Its more about fans intake exhaust, air exchange ... outside temperature is important but once you get below a point your good the temperature controller will handle all the other factors... Set up your ventilation properly and its smooth sailing,,,
 

GotRice

Member
I would like to truly say THANK YOU DJM for this massive knowledge sharing and great with Questions and Answers throughout this 102 Pages. It took me 3 days to read through all these information and to copy and paste every Q&A that DJM have reply.

This will be my first grow and I am so grateful to have found this thread. It will definitely save me a lots of Trials and Errors time and money from wasting on setting up my 1st grow room.

Truly Thank You DJM,

Rice

I Have
-a Plant limit of 15 in my State
-an empty garage 10 X 15 (10 x 6 ceiling is 12 feet, 6 X 6 Ceiling 7 Feet (old tools room)).

Question 1: for best results, efficiency and Budget wise
A. Should I build a 2 Room inside the garage to completely Seal off 1 Veg/ 1 Flower

Or

B. Should I just buy 02 Tent 5X5 for Flowers and 01 Tent 5X5 for Veg

Thanks All for reading this and advice.
 

Trich_Tyson

Active member
Same. Post was indicative that he is still crushing it. Everything you need to know is here haha.

And big al. I don't have 6k. 2 flower, 6 hundo veg.
But.. with high air exchange (I.e 2.5 x per minute) the air doesn't sit long enough to hear much before it's out of the room.
 

Benvanboro

Member
Wow, I've been reading for 3 days straight! So much crucial info in here I can't get enough! Just about every question I could come up with regarding environment/vpd and coco is here! Thank you for sharing DJM! I just got my drip system set up a little over a week ago, now I know how to use it properly.
I had a quick question for DJM, or anyone who may know the answer. I just wanted to know if he runs the lights 24hr for cloning or 18/6? I was also wondering if you run any air stones or circ pump in your res, being that it's sterile? I looked back for answers but didn't see anything. Thanks again for all the awesome info!
 
A

AVOH

This is a great thread lots of gret advise
But has anyone else besides djm actually put all this info to use
I was hoping to see some grows with these techniques put to play
 

Trich_Tyson

Active member
I built my room off many of the concepts discussed in this thread. High air exchange, lung room, flip flops, positive pressure.
Room works like a mother fucker.
If I could use some other bits and pieces.. like vertizontal hoods and bigger foot prints I woulda.
I did go with adjust a wings and I'll tell you... I kept 1k open hoods VERY cool in a 4x4 with no ac assistance.. just running air ey quickly thru the tent, back into the room where it mixes with outside air in winter and back in.
I would say 1k is overkill for 4x4 and stick to DJM recommended footprints.

I also used a greater distance btw bulb and plant.

In order to apply all techniques he uses you'd have be his next door neighbor. His builds are designed based on his environment.

I'll stop rambling. But my point is


Not all techniques work in all situations.

But all of the techniques work.
 
I filtered and read only DJM comments..

He doesnt really mention the use of a lung room, or high air exchange. He does high air CIRCULATION, and air straight from outside on a thermostat as opposed to an a/c, with a passive exhaust back to outside.

His idea is that the lost Co2 through the passive exhaust is less costly then running an a/c year round.

I was asking earlier at what temp point outside do you switch from summer a/c back to outside intake, but no one seemed to get it.

A lot of the times people dont read the full thread and just jump in. Its long as fuck, but so much info in it.

Im going to try this in a couple months when things cool down. I think the main thing is a ton of air movement WITH IN the room. Fans on fans on fans. Plants dont like humid air sitting around them, he runs high humidity so I think the base of this application is having a tornado inside the room.
 

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