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Blunted22
i heard yes want to make sure....
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B
Blunted22
bump its a lavacide bti... seems to be same closest stuff to bti powder like wilsons fungus gnat killer... i cant find a bti powder so this is all i could find that may work.... but no one seems to chime in... Come on stitch i need ya man lol
Hey Blunted,
I've never had those, and info on the net is kind of spotty. The idea I have to kill these is to use Diatomaceous Earth. It is 100% safe and organic. It kills earwigs and other crawling pests by basically cutting them up and drying them out as they crawl over it. You should do a couple repeat applications 7 days apart, to kill any late hatching eggs. I think it would kill those and this product is readily available at most hardware stores. The bonus is it adds slow release micro nutes (minerals) to your plants. This is one brand, there are many...
More info:
Copyright 2000-2002 Oregon State University
• Description • Symphilids in Victoria
• Behaviour • Control methods
Garden Symphilid
(Scutigerella immaculata)
Number 10
November
2003
Vegetable Matters-of-Facts
Description
The Garden Symphilid, (also known
as Symphylan in the USA), are small,
white, soft-bodied "centipede-like"
animals, 3-7 mm long with 12 pairs of
legs and a pair of antennae. They are
found mainly in moist open structured
soils often associated with crop debris.
Symphilids are sensitive to light and are
very active when exposed.
Symphilids in Victoria
The garden symphilid was recently
reported causing problems in a
Victorian asparagus crop. The pest has
since been found on a large numbers
on widely dispersed properties.
Symphilids feed on sprouting seeds
and underground stems of seedlings,
weakening or killing plants.
In asparagus, the pest feeds on the
crown and the base of spears. Infested
areas are usually confined to small
patches of a field where the crop
appears stunted or has been
destroyed.
Asparagus growers have been aware
of this pest for at least 15 years, and
they only appear to be a problem in dry
years when they move from other hosts
to the asparagus crowns deeper in the
soil.
DEPARTMENT OF
PRIMARY INDUSTRIES
For more information please contact your local
VegCheque officer.
-------------------------------------------
Control methods
Given the perennial nature of asparagus
plantings, no effective symphilid control measures
have yet been identified as appropriate for
established Victorian asparagus crops.
Control of garden symphilids in other crops
involves applying preventative treatments before
planting. No rescue treatment can be used
effectively while the crop is growing.
In other parts of the world, high populations of
symphilids have been managed using a
combinations of methods including tillage,
flooding, drying, natural enemy conservation, crop
rotation, cover crop management, organic matter
management, time of planting, biofumigants and
pesticides.
Because symphilids can retreat deep into the soil,
chemical treatments may simply act as repellents,
useful for protecting plants in the short-term such
as during their early development.
Numerous naturally occurring organisms prey on
symphilids in the field including true centipedes,
predatory mites, predacious ground beetles, and
various fungi; however, little is known about their
ability to control symphilid populations.
Symphilid behaviour
Adult symphilids usually stay in the top 50 cm of soil
and can live for several years. Generations are
produced continuously under warm, moist conditions
taking about 3 months to develop from egg to adult. In
the spring they feed on young plant roots near the soil
surface.
Symphilids are unable to burrow, instead travelling
through pores, cracks or burrows made by earthworms.
High populations are more common in well structured
clays than in sandy soils.
Symphilids move vertically in the soil profile in response
to temperature and flooding, returning to colonise the
same area each year so infestations only spread slowly.
High summer temperatures and dryness cause
symphilids to burrow down to the moist subsoil where
they feed on decaying organic matter. Moderate
spring/autumn temperatures or flooding will cause them
to return to the surface where they can damage crops.
I've never had those, and info on the net is kind of spotty. The idea I have to kill these is to use Diatomaceous Earth. It is 100% safe and organic. It kills earwigs and other crawling pests by basically cutting them up and drying them out as they crawl over it. You should do a couple repeat applications 7 days apart, to kill any late hatching eggs. I think it would kill those and this product is readily available at most hardware stores. The bonus is it adds slow release micro nutes (minerals) to your plants. This is one brand, there are many...
More info:
Copyright 2000-2002 Oregon State University
• Description • Symphilids in Victoria
• Behaviour • Control methods
Garden Symphilid
(Scutigerella immaculata)
Number 10
November
2003
Vegetable Matters-of-Facts
Description
The Garden Symphilid, (also known
as Symphylan in the USA), are small,
white, soft-bodied "centipede-like"
animals, 3-7 mm long with 12 pairs of
legs and a pair of antennae. They are
found mainly in moist open structured
soils often associated with crop debris.
Symphilids are sensitive to light and are
very active when exposed.
Symphilids in Victoria
The garden symphilid was recently
reported causing problems in a
Victorian asparagus crop. The pest has
since been found on a large numbers
on widely dispersed properties.
Symphilids feed on sprouting seeds
and underground stems of seedlings,
weakening or killing plants.
In asparagus, the pest feeds on the
crown and the base of spears. Infested
areas are usually confined to small
patches of a field where the crop
appears stunted or has been
destroyed.
Asparagus growers have been aware
of this pest for at least 15 years, and
they only appear to be a problem in dry
years when they move from other hosts
to the asparagus crowns deeper in the
soil.
DEPARTMENT OF
PRIMARY INDUSTRIES
For more information please contact your local
VegCheque officer.
-------------------------------------------
Control methods
Given the perennial nature of asparagus
plantings, no effective symphilid control measures
have yet been identified as appropriate for
established Victorian asparagus crops.
Control of garden symphilids in other crops
involves applying preventative treatments before
planting. No rescue treatment can be used
effectively while the crop is growing.
In other parts of the world, high populations of
symphilids have been managed using a
combinations of methods including tillage,
flooding, drying, natural enemy conservation, crop
rotation, cover crop management, organic matter
management, time of planting, biofumigants and
pesticides.
Because symphilids can retreat deep into the soil,
chemical treatments may simply act as repellents,
useful for protecting plants in the short-term such
as during their early development.
Numerous naturally occurring organisms prey on
symphilids in the field including true centipedes,
predatory mites, predacious ground beetles, and
various fungi; however, little is known about their
ability to control symphilid populations.
Symphilid behaviour
Adult symphilids usually stay in the top 50 cm of soil
and can live for several years. Generations are
produced continuously under warm, moist conditions
taking about 3 months to develop from egg to adult. In
the spring they feed on young plant roots near the soil
surface.
Symphilids are unable to burrow, instead travelling
through pores, cracks or burrows made by earthworms.
High populations are more common in well structured
clays than in sandy soils.
Symphilids move vertically in the soil profile in response
to temperature and flooding, returning to colonise the
same area each year so infestations only spread slowly.
High summer temperatures and dryness cause
symphilids to burrow down to the moist subsoil where
they feed on decaying organic matter. Moderate
spring/autumn temperatures or flooding will cause them
to return to the surface where they can damage crops.
B
Blunted22
Thanks for the info ill deffinetly try it... according to the complete guide to sick plants fungus gnat killer in powder form was suggested to get rid of them... its no longer produced... but if its a fungus gnat killer im guessing its a larvacide like gnatrol witch is bti....
the complete guide to sick plants says this....
Symphilids
Small pests that are tan to white colored and look like centipedes. They are very deadly to the plants, because they burrow down into the roots and damage them by feeding of them. Your plants leaves will begin to die off. They are found mostly in soil composites that have not been cleaned, like soil that has additives in them such as animal manure.
(I know it will smell funny but sterilizing the soil in the oven for 30 min can kill any pests in the soil, heat to 350 for 30 min.) They are easy to tell if you have them, because they come to the top soil when your plant is being watered, if you find you do have them, use Fungus Gnat Killer (“B.T." a non chemical,biological control) in the powdered form. One application should kill it, just to be safe repeat every 7 days to kill off the larvae. Tobacco juice kills them as well! And nematodes.
so it says to use B.T. but there is bti,btk, and like many other forms of bt so im just confused... ive had these this for over a year and they go from infestation to i get rid of them looks like for good then ill see one or two and then it gets bad from there....
the complete guide to sick plants says this....
Symphilids
Small pests that are tan to white colored and look like centipedes. They are very deadly to the plants, because they burrow down into the roots and damage them by feeding of them. Your plants leaves will begin to die off. They are found mostly in soil composites that have not been cleaned, like soil that has additives in them such as animal manure.
(I know it will smell funny but sterilizing the soil in the oven for 30 min can kill any pests in the soil, heat to 350 for 30 min.) They are easy to tell if you have them, because they come to the top soil when your plant is being watered, if you find you do have them, use Fungus Gnat Killer (“B.T." a non chemical,biological control) in the powdered form. One application should kill it, just to be safe repeat every 7 days to kill off the larvae. Tobacco juice kills them as well! And nematodes.
so it says to use B.T. but there is bti,btk, and like many other forms of bt so im just confused... ive had these this for over a year and they go from infestation to i get rid of them looks like for good then ill see one or two and then it gets bad from there....
