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My mommas are yellowing at the bottom, and some of the leaves are yellow at the tip and folding up. I'm using a deep water culture setup under a 250watt hds, my pH is at 6.18, and my ppm is at 788. The temp stays between 78-81 degrees, and i have a small fan circulating the air. Any suggestions???
You stated your total ppm's but did not say what they are. Maybe try to give the percentages of each element in the fert. so we can analyze it. When I click on the pictures they don't get larger. Review your nutrient solution to see if it contains everything: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, and molybdenum. It is important that potassium to calcium is about 1.5-2:1 and calcium to magnesium is 3-4:1 in your fertilizer water. Picture 1 and 2, from the top, looks like green veins on a yellow leaf at the bottom of the plant = magnesium deficiency
Sensi 2 part lacks boron, zinc, molybdenum, and copper according to what you listed. I don't know what is in your micro you added. It may include iron and manganese which is already included in the 2 part fert. This could lead to excess of both of these elements. Did the yellowing occur overnight or is it something that has been happening gradually over a week or so? What does your roots look like? They should be white and fluffy like cotton. Tip: hydrogen peroxide prevents rootrot at 1 teaspoon 3% hydrogen peroxide per gallon of water daily or 2 teaspoons of the same per gallon of water 2 to 3 times per week.
well they were yellow b4 i got them, its been about a week but the leaves that were yellow when i got them, are the only ones that are yellow now, the roots look good but i'mma still add the peroxide.
If you have only had them for a week, it may just take some time for your nutrient solution to cure what they had missing before. If the plants have only been in dwc for a short amount of time, then it may take time for them to adjust. Seems like everything you are doing is normal. You should make sure to include the micro part to your nutrient solution to hopefully provide the missing boron, zinc, copper, and molybedenum that you stated were missing from the regular 2 part fertilizer.
Get your PH fixed and then go about with tweaking your nutes. Over 6 you lock out some nutes. under 5 you lock out some nutes too. Try and keep a range of 5.2-5.8 in DWC. soil and ebb and flo can tolerate a little higher PH.
I just posted the same sprout LOL. I had same problems in beggining. Changing PH to 5.2-5.8 range helped tons for me. PH can fuxor you up if it's not proper from the start.
That one chart suggests ph above 5.5 reduces phosphorus and manganese. You really don't have to worry much about manganese because plants have little trouble taking it up. Phosphorus really would be reduced when calcium becomes more available closer to ph 6.5 because it would form calcium phosphate and become insoluble. Be careful growing so low like 5.2 because the micronutrients become very soluble and toxicity can occur like with manganese. (and aluminum if this was out in regular soil) My hydro book by Benton Jones suggests ph 6 to 6.5 for most crops. I emailed Howard Resh and asked if this was right and he said yes except for lettuce which prefered 5.6 to 5.8 Both these guys are internationally recognized hydro experts. Maybe mj also likes a little lower ph like 5.8 like you pointed out.