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What Lime Do You Use?

DuskrayTroubador

Well-known member
Veteran
What fast-acting lime do you guys use to raise your pH?

I used to just use any old fast-acting garden lime I could get from Lowe's or Home Depot, but I'm thinking I want something faster than that.

I recently stumbled upon Oyster Shell Flour and was considering getting some, but IDK.
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
i use the granular lime shakiraloba..not sure the exact name its from the local hardware store prolly same kind u got from lowes..ive never had a issue with it hence why i havent felt the need to switch yet..if i do by something else if/when i do have issues wit the lime i will get oyster shells bc its great stuff
 

JBskate1002

New member
Ph up from nectar for the gods. it's pure limestone that's solubilized, the nice thing is that any left over lime gets left in the medium and prevents a soil ph drift.
 

DuskrayTroubador

Well-known member
Veteran
Ph up from nectar for the gods. it's pure limestone that's solubilized, the nice thing is that any left over lime gets left in the medium and prevents a soil ph drift.

Leftover lime? How does it know to stop and idle when the soil reaches something like ideal like 6.8?
 

DuskrayTroubador

Well-known member
Veteran
Don't you mean 6.4?

This is going to sound super vague (and it is) but I remember reading something compelling on IC recently about ideal soil ph being a little higher around 6.7-6.8. Perhaps it was an old Silverback thread.

The point in the question remains the same though.
 

skwirl

Member
Alot of soils are acidic. you add Calcium Carbonate to bring it up into range. Like a cup..cup and a half per cubic ft. or so..
 

JBskate1002

New member
Leftover lime? How does it know to stop and idle when the soil reaches something like ideal like 6.8?

from what I understand, it's not 100% solubilized so some of the lime enters the medium and when microbes break down its usually either an acid or an enzyme which will lower your soil ph over time. This helps prevent low ph drift, it wont sit in there and raise your ph levels over time.
 

DuskrayTroubador

Well-known member
Veteran
from what I understand, it's not 100% solubilized so some of the lime enters the medium and when microbes break down its usually either an acid or an enzyme which will lower your soil ph over time. This helps prevent low ph drift, it wont sit in there and raise your ph levels over time.

I can only seem to find the liquid version online, which is kind of a bummer. I want the solid version to mix in with my soil preferably.

Oyster Shell Lime 50lb Bag 9.99 (not including shipping) http://www.groworganic.com/oyster-shell-lime-50-lb.html

Does the Oyster Shell Lime adjust the ph immediately? I need something fast-acting.

Also, does it prevent ph drift?
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
Oyster Shell Lime 50lb Bag 9.99 (not including shipping) http://www.groworganic.com/oyster-shell-lime-50-lb.html
shipping is where they get u at
I can only seem to find the liquid version online, which is kind of a bummer. I want the solid version to mix in with my soil preferably.



Does the Oyster Shell Lime adjust the ph immediately? I need something fast-acting.

Also, does it prevent ph drift?
A high quality soil conditioner which consists of 96% calcium carbonate and many micronutrients, Oyster Shell provides a long-lasting, steady release of nutrients to help regulate pH levels, improve fertilizer uptake, promote healthy cellular structure and enhance soil tilth. Oyster Shell is also helpful in creating more active habitats for soil microbes in compost piles and worm bins.
 

DuskrayTroubador

Well-known member
Veteran
Yeah, shipping is a killer.

Perhaps I've always just done it inaccurately and inefficiently (most likely), but a wise old head on these forums once told me to use about a cup or cup and a half of dolomite lime per hole as opposed to per cubic foot. With holes 3' in diameter by 18" deep that's 7 cubic feet per hole, so 7-10 cups of oyster shell (calcium carbonate) per hole. For 20 plants, that means I'd need about 75lbs of oyster shell flour. Holy shit.

Is this right?

Obviously I would need to test the ph of the soil before doing such calculations, but the above is generally speaking for clay-based soils.
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
Yeah, shipping is a killer.

Perhaps I've always just done it inaccurately and inefficiently (most likely), but a wise old head on these forums once told me to use about a cup or cup and a half of dolomite lime per hole as opposed to per cubic foot. With holes 3' in diameter by 18" deep that's 7 cubic feet per hole, so 7-10 cups of oyster shell (calcium carbonate) per hole. For 20 plants, that means I'd need about 75lbs of oyster shell flour. Holy shit.

Is this right?

Obviously I would need to test the ph of the soil before doing such calculations, but the above is generally speaking for clay-based soils.
thats all i have ever used bro and i have never seen any sort of defeicny and this was using miracle gro potting mix..i dont even measure it out just a handful per hole and mix it in

Edit: i just checked that link and here is the shipping options i get to choose from for the 50lb bag of oyser shell flour

FedEx Home Delivery $44.47
1-5 business days. Will ship to any physical address (no PO boxes) in the lower 48 states, Tuesday through Saturday (excluding holidays).

USPS Parcel Post $101.78
USPS Priority Mail $111.86
FedEx 3 Day $146.49
FedEx 2 Day $185.91
FedEx Standard Overnight $219.05
FedEx Priority Overnight $226.29
Grass Valley Pickup
 

walkingstick

New member
damn you were right about the shipping. Thats ridiculous. In all honesty I listed it just off a quick search to see what the prices were like. To answer your question shakiraloba, go to your closest Agri-store or garden center. They all carry different types of lime, hydrated, fast acting, dolomite etc. in 50lb bags powderized for usually under $10. I used dolomite last year it was like $5 bucks a bag. No problems really, but I've heard numerous comments stating that dolomite isnt always the way to go. Too much magnesium, Ive heard gypsum and fast acting are better. Also depends on your soil type.
Had a great great book recommended to me - The Intelligent Gardener, talked alot about testing your soil when choosing type of lime to add. Ill have to go refresh my memory on the specifics. Cheers
 

RoostaPhish

Well-known member
Veteran
You can use hydrated lime for the quickest results. But use it sparingly, like say 2/3 dolomite lime, to 1/3 hydrated. I prefer pulverized dolomite limestone the best, and being pulverized allows it to break down quicker than pelletized.
 

RoostaPhish

Well-known member
Veteran
Gypsum doesn't affect the ph, that is the big draw to it for soils without the need for adjustment. But they still get the copious amounts of calcium and sulfur, plus it loosens or softens hard pan soils.
 

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