bushdoctor
New member
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
What is this, please help
- Thread starter bushdoctor
- Start date
bushdoctor
New member
the soil mix is worm castings, coco coir, perlite, promix bx and I use the plant-tone from epsoma which is dry ferts i mix into the dirt. I have been giving water for about 3 weeks intill this. I also give it molasses water. please help
Brian1975
Member
Strain of Mj?
Hydroponic or soil?
From seed or clone?
Age of plant in question?
What stage (Veg/Flower; how many days into)?
Medium (Soil, Rockwool, Hydroton etc.)?
Container/Pot size?
Have they been transplanted, if so how long ago?
If soil, composition ratios (peat moss, perilite, vermiculite etc.)?
Water runoff Ph?
Nutrients added?
Ratios of nutrients (N% P% K%)?
Feeding schedule?
When were they last fed/watered?
How are you determining when to feed/water (weight, wilting, etc.)?
TDS/EC/PPM?
Tap/RO/Distilled water?
Ph before and after adding nutrients?
Is your Ph equipment properly calibrated?
Light intensity/Age of bulb/Wattage?
Distance to the canopy?
Temps at canopy?
Temps at root zone or reservoir?
Day/Night temps (Min.-Max.)?
Current air flow (CFM)?
Is there air blowing directly onto plant?
Using CO2?
Relative humidity?
Growing technique (Scrog, Sog, Supercropping etc.)?
Has plant recently been pruned, clones taken, fimmed or pinched?
Pests?
Chemicals used to irradicate?
If so,When?
It does look like iron when compared to the infirmary guide. Whether it is deficient in it or th PH has it locked out, is what you need to know.
IF your PH is high, then it would make sense that iron is your problem. Are you using any nutes that contain potassium?? If so, iron deficiency isn't it, unless again, it is the PH blocking absorption instead of an actual lack of iron. Where's Black Velvet when we need him??? 
Hydroponic or soil?
From seed or clone?
Age of plant in question?
What stage (Veg/Flower; how many days into)?
Medium (Soil, Rockwool, Hydroton etc.)?
Container/Pot size?
Have they been transplanted, if so how long ago?
If soil, composition ratios (peat moss, perilite, vermiculite etc.)?
Water runoff Ph?
Nutrients added?
Ratios of nutrients (N% P% K%)?
Feeding schedule?
When were they last fed/watered?
How are you determining when to feed/water (weight, wilting, etc.)?
TDS/EC/PPM?
Tap/RO/Distilled water?
Ph before and after adding nutrients?
Is your Ph equipment properly calibrated?
Light intensity/Age of bulb/Wattage?
Distance to the canopy?
Temps at canopy?
Temps at root zone or reservoir?
Day/Night temps (Min.-Max.)?
Current air flow (CFM)?
Is there air blowing directly onto plant?
Using CO2?
Relative humidity?
Growing technique (Scrog, Sog, Supercropping etc.)?
Has plant recently been pruned, clones taken, fimmed or pinched?
Pests?
Chemicals used to irradicate?
If so,When?
It does look like iron when compared to the infirmary guide. Whether it is deficient in it or th PH has it locked out, is what you need to know.
IF your PH is high, then it would make sense that iron is your problem. Are you using any nutes that contain potassium?? If so, iron deficiency isn't it, unless again, it is the PH blocking absorption instead of an actual lack of iron. Where's Black Velvet when we need him???
Last edited:
Outta curiousity, what's all that white specking on the leaves? Did you foliar feed/spray them or is it mites/PM?
Fill out the form and you'll get some better answers...but it's a micro def/lockout IMO based on the pics. Make sure to provide ALL the details of the PH & EC/PPM if possible as that's most likely where your problem is gonna lie.
Fill out the form and you'll get some better answers...but it's a micro def/lockout IMO based on the pics. Make sure to provide ALL the details of the PH & EC/PPM if possible as that's most likely where your problem is gonna lie.
bushdoctor
New member
these plants are in veg. they are from seed and the strain is bubbleberry/bubba and a sweet tooth/bubba. these are f1s. I also have some shroomy deez cuts that have been vegging for 3 weeks that have also started to do the same. All these are done in soil. I water when the medium is close to dry/ with ph water. I have been givin them plain ph water. my runoff is a 6.1 after plain water runs through the pots. They are six inch pots. but everything is starting this from clones to big mommas...??????? I use co2 but my temps are around 85 for veg.. the leaves are also brittling up yellow. this starts from beginning of leave going toward the tips. my soil ratio is 30 coco, 25% castings, 20 percent promix 15 percent perlite and 3 percent hydrotons.. something like that. I use tap water
bushdoctor
New member
the white specks on the plants was a foliar application. the regular ph of the water without me doing anything to is is around 8. I have given them 3 application of mother earth tea mixed with a little florilious. The foliar spray was penatrator, dutch master grow and a drop of floralious with 2 caps of neem. I thought I had thrips so I bombed with pyrethem
bushdoctor
New member
my ppm when i did give nutes was 150 ppm.. mostly molasses water and a touch of hydrozyme. I hand water about every 3 days.
bushdoctor
New member
these are under 1k and have been pinched.. the light is about 2.5 feet form top canopy the bulb has been used in at least 3 seasons.
bushdoctor
New member
yes i drop it down
Brian1975
Member
I don't know anything about your nutes. I use powdered ferts that contain iron in them. Do yours contain iron? If so, then that isn't the problem(as long as PH is good). I use distilled water and never have problems with it. I like chemical ferts. for just that reason...convenience. I make sure all the things I need are on the label and I am good to go. I want to help you, hate to see that get worse for you.
G
Guest
Scroll down to both Magnesium and Iron and read. See if it applies to your plants
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
which reads in part:
Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
which reads in part:
Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.
What's the runoff PPM if it goes in at 150?
Did I read it correct - your water goes in at 8.0 and comes out at 6.1?
You should be fine feeding them 400-600ppm at that size...but your tap water may have built up some buffers in the soiless mix, so it would be wise to flush them first IMO.
Did I read it correct - your water goes in at 8.0 and comes out at 6.1?
You should be fine feeding them 400-600ppm at that size...but your tap water may have built up some buffers in the soiless mix, so it would be wise to flush them first IMO.
bushdoctor
New member
Thanks sandman, I have been giving them water. Yes the runoff is 6.1 after it runs through soiless mix. Should I try some cal mag??
420KushMaster
Member
poor plant needs some cal mag
You need some dolomite lime if your PH is dropping that much...but flush it first to remove any buildups then recheck the PH/PPM going in and in the runoff. If the PPM is higher in the runoff, then you've got a buildup of something in there.
What kind of "castings" are you using and what's the NPK?
The PPM info would be really helpful...
What kind of "castings" are you using and what's the NPK?
The PPM info would be really helpful...
Brian1975
Member
. Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get
locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K,
Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often
too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get
too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. This next problem solver is good if you have ruled out PH as the origin of your problem-->1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it
affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem
seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow.
Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not,
go to #3.
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are
yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >>
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches,
especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too
tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple &
red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily.
Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b)
If not, go to #6.
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy &
green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering,
damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite.
Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown,
or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8…
8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy
soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to
#9.
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2
weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much
pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe)
deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not
twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency. b) If not, #13.
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant.
Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not… You may just have a
weak plant.
locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K,
Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often
too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get
too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. This next problem solver is good if you have ruled out PH as the origin of your problem-->1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it
affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem
seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow.
Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not,
go to #3.
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are
yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >>
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches,
especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too
tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple &
red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily.
Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b)
If not, go to #6.
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy &
green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering,
damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite.
Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown,
or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8…
8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy
soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to
#9.
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2
weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much
pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe)
deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not
twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency. b) If not, #13.
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant.
Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not… You may just have a
weak plant.
bushdoctor
New member
Sandman I am using mr. natural worm castings. no npk on the bag. From the looks of the plant and from all the help the plants seem to have a iron defency..what are good quick iron sources? My ph is around 6.1 but do remix all the soil or do I use dolomite lime as top dressing?
Brian1975
Member
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have potassium in them will fix a Iron deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water can work well. Other supplements that have Iron in them are: Iron chelates, Ferric oxide, Ferrous oxide, Ferrous sulfate, all of these are fast absorption. Greensand, Cottonseed Meal is slow absorption, Garden Manure, which is medium absorption. Manure is most common organic iron source to use.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If
deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that
you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for
maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read
something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a
P-deficiency.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If
deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that
you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for
maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read
something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a
P-deficiency.
