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what is optimum growing temps & humidity

axle2u

Member
hello gents,


so quick question...for indoor grow -soil 12" deep pots





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what would be optimum temps, and humidity values
while in veg state AND while in flowing cycle...??





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thanks guys....


axle r robot
 

soil margin

Active member
Veteran
Gonna vary a little bit by strain and ventiliation/fans/co2/etc.. Some indicas can handle hard cold, some sativas can handle blistering heat. But in general, I would say 75-80f & 50-60% humidity during veg. 70-75f & 35-45% humidity during flowering is probably what I would consider optimal on average.
 

axle2u

Member
Gonna vary a little bit by strain and ventiliation/fans/co2/etc.. Some indicas can handle hard cold, some sativas can handle blistering heat. But in general, I would say 75-80f & 50-60% humidity during veg. 70-75f & 35-45% humidity during flowering is probably what I would consider optimal on average.


thanks buddy !!
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
Soil plants for me are a bit tricky. Microbial growth is best when soil temps are somewhere between 73F and 78F? The room environment I prefer is cool and dry, because my goal is maximum resin and terpene production/retention.

I don't like my canopy temps hitting 72F, and I prefer my humidity around 20%. Longer veg, more tops, less leaf, less stem smaller flowers, greatly increased resin/terpene content. :)
 

Lost in a SOG

GrassSnakeGenetics
Horses for courses..

I run my babies in very low vpd until transition.. transition i draw down from 75% RH to 40-50 in flower..

Releasing co2 allows you to get away with dryer air as it closes stomata but dryer air opens them. This can be useful, it can also be a PIA.

Temps most people are in 25-28°.. There are many ways to crack a nut but if you have issues with lockout always check your environment first before sticking nutes in the soil or flushing, imo.

You have to dial this in relative to everything else in your grow but your leaves will tell you everything if you can read them
 

axle2u

Member
Soil plants for me are a bit tricky. Microbial growth is best when soil temps are somewhere between 73F and 78F? The room environment I prefer is cool and dry, because my goal is maximum resin and terpene production/retention.

I don't like my canopy temps hitting 72F, and I prefer my humidity around 20%. Longer veg, more tops, less leaf, less stem smaller flowers, greatly increased resin/terpene content. :)



thank you,

very interesting info here you posted, please tell me more....lol
any other tips n tricks to increase resin and terps ??

most interesting, because im trying to do the same thing...
my 1st grow (caz its legal now -so no lip service from mom n dad and my woman...haha)

I have chosen original cherry bomb, because im more into quality not quantity (sounds like something a chic would say eh...lol)

im all about flavor with this grow attempt, so all the tasty terps are key to me, its whole purpose.
I enjoy oil, love the stuff, id take a quality made resin over anything eles out there, any day

so yes, my 2 cherry bombs are planned for oil, - all of it
and at center stage would be flavor, hence terps....

so what eles can one do to stack the deck, in terms of flavor ?

thanks again,


axle r. robot
 

axle2u

Member
Horses for courses..

I run my babies in very low vpd until transition.. transition i draw down from 75% RH to 50-60 in flower..

Releasing co2 allows you to get away with dryer air as it closes stomata but dryer air opens them. This can be useful, it can also be a PIA.

Temps most people are in 25-28°.. There are many ways to crack a nut but if you have issues with lockout always check your environment first before sticking nutes in the soil or flushing, imo.

You have to dial this in relative to everything else in your grow but your leaves will tell you everything if you can read them


thank you,


interesting point about reading the leaves
now I don't know much about growing as this is my first go at it
but your statement of reading leaves, makes perfect sense to me

I don't know how to read leaves yet neither....but there are examples of what different issues are with their respective leaf pictures,
so one can educate themselves quite quickly...through images/descriptions to detect any issues

at the moment, everything seems to be going good
tons of leaves everywhere, big-full some dark green,
some a slight lighter tone -but not faded, no burning, wilting or critters


but yes, you are absolutely right about that -reading leaves


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what would you say about these leaves...??
curious what a leaf reader would say.....lol


thanks mate,

axle robot
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
im all about flavor with this grow attempt, so all the tasty terps are key to me, its whole purpose.
I enjoy oil, love the stuff, id take a quality made resin over anything eles out there, any day

so yes, my 2 cherry bombs are planned for oil, - all of it
and at center stage would be flavor, hence terps....

so what eles can one do to stack the deck, in terms of flavor ?

thanks again,


axle r. robot
Yw. :)

When you grow hot and wet, you end up with much lower trichome density. Quite a lot of plant weight though, so I can see why it's the standard in the industry. You also end up with lower potency (due to more plant vs. trichomes), and fewer of the more heat intolerant terpenes.

Cool and dry tends to preserve terpenes after they're created, at least more of the ones easily vaped off in low heat. I mean really tasty roaches type terpene content. :) The cooler it is, the drier you can go. You want to keep VPD rather high, all through flower.

There are studies which say 60F is optimal temps for cannabis, but I don't go that low. I'm sure there are factors I'm not aware of to attain it properly.

Sulfur is a main component of many terpenes, which is why I generally use magnesium sulfate for mag deficiencies.

Fulvic/Humic acids tend to add to terpene production. Be aware, most sources have their own flavor present when overused.

Trimming/Drying/Curing/Storing at 70F and under helps significantly. If you're smelling grassy hay at harvest, you're most likely harvesting 'green'bud in warm temps. Cannabis should be well faded, with the sugar leaves dead up to the outside of the flowers. Super green flowers at harvest is for ancient high times cover pics. ;)

Nitrogen is not your friend in late flower. The less chlorophyll leftover at harvest, the tastier it's going to be. :)

Overfeeding will cut both terpene and cannabinoid production. No, you will not be able to flush any of it out, it's not that type of quality hit.

:tiphat:
 

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