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- Thread starter HMFR
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IF you up-pot those plants into a slightly larger container they would do better. Gently tip the plant out of the pot you may see the roots are restricted.
If you are using an EC or TDS meter then you should know what's in the substrate and how much you are giving the plants,. Using excess fertilizer will almost always cause yellowing.
If you are using an EC or TDS meter then you should know what's in the substrate and how much you are giving the plants,. Using excess fertilizer will almost always cause yellowing.
That depends on the EC of the substrate. A good way to add or decrease EC is by allowing drainage to lower and holding the run-off for raising the EC. If you check the EC from the beginning to the end you should know what you have at any given time during the grow. Test everything.
As for using tap water I never use it because it causes problems where I get mine. I only use Rain or RO in my gardens because it always does so best. When using rain or RO I have to add a little cal-mag to keep the pH stable.
Do not upcan in flower.... will only stress the plants more, nothing else....
Roots dont really grow much in flower so there isnt a point in upcanning in my opinion or in my experience.
Plants look hungry, up your feed to 80-100% and feed every other watering.
Do not upcan tho, not gonna help your situation any.
Roots dont really grow much in flower so there isnt a point in upcanning in my opinion or in my experience.
Plants look hungry, up your feed to 80-100% and feed every other watering.
Do not upcan tho, not gonna help your situation any.
The ones that are still in early flowering need nitrogen.
The more mature plant needs lower nutrients and a little potassium.
Jack's 321 - if you have all the kit, I would use the same or lower nutrient concentration, however skew the NPK ratio towards nitrogen. Like 2-1-1, something like that.
For the more mature plant I would use a lower nutrient solution and an NPK ratio of 1-1-2. The heavier buds need support from the branches and stem, and potassium helps in the ripening process.
Only a two-inch increase of container size will give the best result. The roots are getting root-bound. If you add a lot of new soil in too large of a container it can cause problems. Mainly by maxing out the water holding capacity.
You can finish them in the containers you have them in now. You will just need to keep a steady EC or they will decline or stay the same. There are many different fixes you can take however the end yield is what matters the most. I hope you can find what works for you friend. Keep us posted.
Exactly what this Gentleman posted.
Once the plant completes the stretch they require a dose of N, which was used up doing all that stretching.
Up-potting after the stretch is fine and will not harm anything but I wouldn't on the ones in later flower. I don't think your plants need it though.
I agree, however you need to know what you're doing.
You can transplant late in coco coir, because it has no nutrients - if you don't touch the rootball at all.
However anything with fresh nutrients in it will burn the roots, which stresses the plant and can lead to hermying.
Also, the fresh medium has to hydrate for a couple of days, so it isn't taking up water while in contact with the roots.
SolarLogos
Well-known member
I agree, they need bigger pots. The first tow pics are still early enough in flower to upcan now. They last pic can be debated I guess. What is it, week 4 in flower for the first plant? With Sativa indoors, it's normal to restrict pot size until after stretch. I've waited this long to upcan many, many times. Add some Vitamin B-1 to reduce stress. If you do it gently, you'll not really notice much, if any stress. They may slow a little for a day or two, but they'll love it and reward you in the end.
SolarLogos
Well-known member
I just saw those were autos. Sorry, I have no experience with autos, I only grow photo-period seeds. I've always read not to upcan autos, but again, I don't know.
I would definitely hydrate and charge the coco to match the stage of flowering you are in before transplanting in flower. With coco I don't see a reason to up pot in flower. Soil more so if rootbound becomes an issue.
SolarLogos
Well-known member
If there is just coco, an easy fix to most nutrient problems is flush with proper pH water (your sweetspot, we're all different) until run-off is has about the same EC/ppm going out as going in, then feed it half strength nutrients and after the next watering, go back to a normal schedule. Hope it helps.
Peace
