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What insect is this and what can I do??
- Thread starter raCURE
- Start date
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Aphids maybe? Vacuum the leaves, cold water spray (clean water) once or twice a day... with LOTS of ventilation! 
I wouldn't consider spraying anything other than water. Maybe sticky traps around the base of the plants to help?
Ride it out.
I wouldn't consider spraying anything other than water. Maybe sticky traps around the base of the plants to help?
Ride it out.
raCURE
Member
Aphids maybe? Vacuum the leaves, cold water spray (clean water) once or twice a day... with LOTS of ventilation!
I wouldn't consider spraying anything other than water. Maybe sticky traps around the base of the plants to help?
Ride it out.
Possible thrips?
That is my guess by the long body, try spinosad or however it is spelled.
Blue sticky traps for the fliers.
Make sure to drench the soil too.
Like doug said hit em often for the win.
Even soapy water will help, better than nuttin'.
Oils work good and are natural too.
Iso alcohol/water mix is another good one.
They are not like spider mites, not a huge pest.
Good luck
Tynehead Tom
Well-known member
could be thrips
Monterey's Garden Spray with Spinosad , follow the instructions on the bottle. This product is OMRI registered so is "safe" for use IN VEG. It is a dual use product both as a spray and a soil drench. It is "soil safe" unlike other bug sprays.
For a general bug spray when in doubt :
add to 1 liter of water
15ml of concentrated H202(35% grade)
20ml of alcohol (original listerine, everclear moonshine )
2ml wetting agent, dawn dishsoap ect
I also like to add 10ml of Crosby's black strap molasses if dealing with mites as the sugars make life difficult for mites and their eggs.
Monterey's Garden Spray with Spinosad , follow the instructions on the bottle. This product is OMRI registered so is "safe" for use IN VEG. It is a dual use product both as a spray and a soil drench. It is "soil safe" unlike other bug sprays.
For a general bug spray when in doubt :
add to 1 liter of water
15ml of concentrated H202(35% grade)
20ml of alcohol (original listerine, everclear moonshine )
2ml wetting agent, dawn dishsoap ect
I also like to add 10ml of Crosby's black strap molasses if dealing with mites as the sugars make life difficult for mites and their eggs.
Can't identify 100% from the images posted, Could be thrips as stated by yourself and others.
I don't like treating flowering plants, If I do I will use a insecticidal soap or Pyrethrins product. I mix up a solution and use a cloth or paper towel dampened to wipe the leafs and stalks down and avoid splashing and contacting trichomes with a mister. Good to keep gloves handy for moments like this when you need to handle such products.
Anything with alcohol in it will be damaging to trichomes so keep that in mind with any of the above solutions containing alcohol. Using the moist cloth or paper towel method will work fine with such treatments just not misters or sprayers, Impossible to not splash trichome covered leafs and buds when spraying plants.
Vacuuming the leafs is a good method and can help get the numbers down but only marginal. I would treat the veg throughout using a dunk method with whatever product you prefer for treatment. Fully dunking under solution and spinning the plant back and forth for about 10 to 15 seconds does the trick for veg.
I prefer to chop all flowering plants, take all new cuts of any of my keepers and after I have a rooted cut of everything. I will toss all the soil and rest of the plants out. Clean my flower room with Sterifab and my veg room as well.
I then do the dunks on the freshly rooted cuts and proceed with a fresh new start!
I don't like treating flowering plants, If I do I will use a insecticidal soap or Pyrethrins product. I mix up a solution and use a cloth or paper towel dampened to wipe the leafs and stalks down and avoid splashing and contacting trichomes with a mister. Good to keep gloves handy for moments like this when you need to handle such products.
Anything with alcohol in it will be damaging to trichomes so keep that in mind with any of the above solutions containing alcohol. Using the moist cloth or paper towel method will work fine with such treatments just not misters or sprayers, Impossible to not splash trichome covered leafs and buds when spraying plants.
Vacuuming the leafs is a good method and can help get the numbers down but only marginal. I would treat the veg throughout using a dunk method with whatever product you prefer for treatment. Fully dunking under solution and spinning the plant back and forth for about 10 to 15 seconds does the trick for veg.
I prefer to chop all flowering plants, take all new cuts of any of my keepers and after I have a rooted cut of everything. I will toss all the soil and rest of the plants out. Clean my flower room with Sterifab and my veg room as well.
I then do the dunks on the freshly rooted cuts and proceed with a fresh new start!
Ugg, just saw 3 weeks from harvest.
Yea, don't do a thing with oil or pesticide.
Sorry about that!
Anyway I am 90% sure it is thrips.
They take a long time to get out of hand.
As someone stated before use a small vac to remove them from the plant right before harvest.
But they are not like mites.
They will not be found in the sticky parts of the plant.
Unless of course they get trapped there by accident.
Blue sticky traps to keep them from getting out of hand in the meantime.
The mature thrips can fly, if you catch the fliers they are most mature and most likely to mate.
If the sticky traps take those out you will have new ones but not an infestation.
Sorry about the bad advice at first, my bad totally.
This is a video about how the virus has made us all a bit crazy.
Not to make a point, hope to make some laughs here.
Take a look, you may even laugh.
Happy 420
Shag
[YOUTUBEIF]UmakhRsNUH0[/YOUTUBEIF]
Yea, don't do a thing with oil or pesticide.
Sorry about that!
Anyway I am 90% sure it is thrips.
They take a long time to get out of hand.
As someone stated before use a small vac to remove them from the plant right before harvest.
But they are not like mites.
They will not be found in the sticky parts of the plant.
Unless of course they get trapped there by accident.
Blue sticky traps to keep them from getting out of hand in the meantime.
The mature thrips can fly, if you catch the fliers they are most mature and most likely to mate.
If the sticky traps take those out you will have new ones but not an infestation.
Sorry about the bad advice at first, my bad totally.
This is a video about how the virus has made us all a bit crazy.
Not to make a point, hope to make some laughs here.
Take a look, you may even laugh.
Happy 420
Shag
[YOUTUBEIF]UmakhRsNUH0[/YOUTUBEIF]
Those look odd. Are they moving?.
Thrips
Thrips
Thanks for all the replies!
So general consensus is;
1. We think it’s thrips.
2. Riding it out until harvest with minimal interference is best?
3. Covid is affecting shaggyballs in strange ways
Nice!
Out of rep.
Thanks for all the replies!
So general consensus is;
1. We think it’s thrips.
2. Riding it out until harvest with minimal interference is best?
3. Covid is affecting shaggyballs in strange ways
Tynehead Tom
Well-known member
you can use the spinosad in the rootzone during flower, but I wouldn't spray it outside of veg.
thrips have 2 attack zones on the plant and 3 life phases.
In reality, the damage they do above the soil is not really the problem. The real problem with thrips is the damage they are doing at the roots.
The adults fly in and live on the soil surface. Rummaging around and laying their eggs. The eggs wash down into the root zone and hatch into pupae. The pupae attach directly to the fine tips of tender new roots and root growth stops due to the thips feeding on them.
Once the pupae stage is complete the thrip larvae climb up and onto the leaves and new growth and feed on the leaves. They eat tissue and leave little eratic tracks on the leaves.
so it is of upmost importance to kill these fuckers in the root zone , which may be safe to do in flower by adding the Monterey;s garden spray to a watering.
Nematodes are also a top choice for battling thrips. Diatomaceous earth is also a good addition to the top soil.
thrips have 2 attack zones on the plant and 3 life phases.
In reality, the damage they do above the soil is not really the problem. The real problem with thrips is the damage they are doing at the roots.
The adults fly in and live on the soil surface. Rummaging around and laying their eggs. The eggs wash down into the root zone and hatch into pupae. The pupae attach directly to the fine tips of tender new roots and root growth stops due to the thips feeding on them.
Once the pupae stage is complete the thrip larvae climb up and onto the leaves and new growth and feed on the leaves. They eat tissue and leave little eratic tracks on the leaves.
so it is of upmost importance to kill these fuckers in the root zone , which may be safe to do in flower by adding the Monterey;s garden spray to a watering.
Nematodes are also a top choice for battling thrips. Diatomaceous earth is also a good addition to the top soil.
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Though not positive, I'm pretty sure spinosad is easily absorbed through the roots. I wouldn't be surprised at all if the end flowers tested positive for spinosad, even with only a root drench.
Were it not in flower, I would put a 2" - 3" layer of rinsed/washed gnat-knix (perlite made from recycled glass), and then a fine screen across the top of the knix. Nothing crawls through that stuff, and the screen keeps the knix from washing around during watering. Glass dust in your flowers is not great at all, so applying this stuff during flower can be a problem. Maybe pre-wet the knix?
Were it not in flower, I would put a 2" - 3" layer of rinsed/washed gnat-knix (perlite made from recycled glass), and then a fine screen across the top of the knix. Nothing crawls through that stuff, and the screen keeps the knix from washing around during watering. Glass dust in your flowers is not great at all, so applying this stuff during flower can be a problem. Maybe pre-wet the knix?
YukonKronic
Active member
Nope.. I think eggs are in plant tissue according to the Google.
https://www.pestnet.org/fact_sheets/assets/image/western_flower_thrips_183/lifecycle_umass.jpg
And mostly eat leaves.
http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/14-001.htm
Cucumeris or swirskii predator bugs if you that close to harvest!
