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What do you use to lightproof?
- Thread starter bluethumb
- Start date
durka_durka420
Member
your probly using the wrong hinges certain hinges work with weather striping and some dont....also need to get correct hinges for the style of cabinet your building....you can find out what kinda cabinet/hinges you need with a simple google search.
mk6
Active member
one of the things I did to a cab I made, was to add some tape to the doors.
I take some dark 2" tape, fold it back over its self with about a 1/4 or 1/2 inch of the sticky part left to stick to one side, on the outside of a door, and the same for one side to the inside of the opposite door - creating a little flap. you can do the same on the edges too.
just make sure you add plenty of ventalation as it gets hot in-m
I take some dark 2" tape, fold it back over its self with about a 1/4 or 1/2 inch of the sticky part left to stick to one side, on the outside of a door, and the same for one side to the inside of the opposite door - creating a little flap. you can do the same on the edges too.
just make sure you add plenty of ventalation as it gets hot in-m
Tape works for doors, but old inner tubes cut in half & stapled to both sides of the inside of the door will last the lifespan of the cabinet in most cases. Overlap 2-3" at tube ends.
Bottom & tops of doors I use a super soft open cell black foam weatherstripping. You want something that has "maximum conformation" that's designed to fill irregular gaps. Too much pressure makes closing doors difficult, and in my experience closed cell foam will fail (or shift position) much faster.
I also will attach a piece of plywood or a 1x4 to where the door (or doors) meet. The larger surface area lets me place two outer layers of weatherstripping on the 1x4 and one on the door itself that centers between the two. There should be a good 1/2" to 1" gap between the strips with the door closed.
I tend to avoid anything on the outside that looks like a lock or a hasp that's holding the door shut. I'll buy a few niobium magnets, drill holes for them and epoxy them into place at the top, bottom and middle of the 1x4. Then the door gets a fairly thick washer (the bigger the mass the more the magnets can pull) epoxied directly across from the magnet, so the two will come within 1/16" or so with the door shut.
Very hard to accidentally open, doesn't look like you're taking pains to secure it.
Also, if you have extras around learn from my mistakes. Coat them with epoxy BEFORE playing darts with the wife & kids on the old fridge in the basement. We found they'd stick even if you threw them across the room, painted a target, found out how fragile and sharp they are . . .
Bottom & tops of doors I use a super soft open cell black foam weatherstripping. You want something that has "maximum conformation" that's designed to fill irregular gaps. Too much pressure makes closing doors difficult, and in my experience closed cell foam will fail (or shift position) much faster.
I also will attach a piece of plywood or a 1x4 to where the door (or doors) meet. The larger surface area lets me place two outer layers of weatherstripping on the 1x4 and one on the door itself that centers between the two. There should be a good 1/2" to 1" gap between the strips with the door closed.
I tend to avoid anything on the outside that looks like a lock or a hasp that's holding the door shut. I'll buy a few niobium magnets, drill holes for them and epoxy them into place at the top, bottom and middle of the 1x4. Then the door gets a fairly thick washer (the bigger the mass the more the magnets can pull) epoxied directly across from the magnet, so the two will come within 1/16" or so with the door shut.
Very hard to accidentally open, doesn't look like you're taking pains to secure it.
Also, if you have extras around learn from my mistakes. Coat them with epoxy BEFORE playing darts with the wife & kids on the old fridge in the basement. We found they'd stick even if you threw them across the room, painted a target, found out how fragile and sharp they are . . .
