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What do I need to do differently in flower to avoid the leaves getting yellow?

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
The plants in the big tent are a mixed lot, with Serious Kush still green, but Runtz and "?" getting browning (starts in between the veins of the leafs) then yellow leafs. "?" has sugar leafs dying now also. I needed cal-mag plus (has iron) in the first part of veg until they went outside. Perhaps they need mag now that they ae back under the LEDs, and they are eating their own chlorophyl to get it. I dunno, and sure do need suggestions.

This has progressed from slight browning on "?", and is spreading. Here is a pic of a sugar leaf from "?":

Snapshot@2021_0609_193956.jpg
Snapshot@2021_0609_194107.jpg
 

JustGrowing420

Well-known member
The brown leaf on the first photo looks a bit alarming but can't tell by the photos. Second looks like N def.

In your diary plants look hungry but good overall.
 
filedata/fetch?id=17875691&d=1623288021

This is compost yellowing!

Rinse the affected pots well, and after about 10 days you will see new green growth. It's the compost that is at fault. May be warm compost, old compost, too many nutes, but typically it's compost that's breaking down too quickly and making too many nutes. Too much bacteria is not good for plants. Just the additional heat from composting in the tubs is enough to yellow and eventually kill the plants. If you add chemicals, or seaweed nutes to compost, this adds to the brewing problem. It's a bit like PUTTING SUGAR IN HOME BREW BEER. The resulting mixture of COMPOST FIZZES UP WITH YEAST ACTIVITY.

Wash your pots out well and water well every day to see the problem go away.
Use good quality peat or pure-peat for greener plants.


If your using cheap multi-purpose compost, like Verve multi-purpose-compost, this is too rich for cannabis, and you should change to a lower nutrient compost.

Westland seed & cutting peat is very good, despite the added nutrients, which is just 20% chopped up green matter. Drainage is also very good. May still need watering to RINSE THE COMPOST every day despite the better quality. https://www.diy.com/departments/west...7859151_BQ.prd

https://www.diy.com/ideas-advice/compost-buying-guide/PROD_npcart_100687.art
 

Cuddles

Well-known member
filedata/fetch?id=17875691&d=1623288021

This is compost yellowing!

Rinse the affected pots well, and after about 10 days you will see new green growth. It's the compost that is at fault. May be warm compost, old compost, too many nutes, but typically it's compost that's breaking down too quickly and making too many nutes. Too much bacteria is not good for plants. Just the additional heat from composting in the tubs is enough to yellow and eventually kill the plants. If you add chemicals, or seaweed nutes to compost, this adds to the brewing problem. It's a bit like PUTTING SUGAR IN HOME BREW BEER. The resulting mixture of COMPOST FIZZES UP WITH YEAST ACTIVITY.

Wash your pots out well and water well every day to see the problem go away.
Use good quality peat or pure-peat for greener plants.


If your using cheap multi-purpose compost, like Verve multi-purpose-compost, this is too rich for cannabis, and you should change to a lower nutrient compost.

Westland seed & cutting peat is very good, despite the added nutrients, which is just 20% chopped up green matter. Drainage is also very good. May still need watering to RINSE THE COMPOST every day despite the better quality. https://www.diy.com/departments/west...7859151_BQ.prd

https://www.diy.com/ideas-advice/compost-buying-guide/PROD_npcart_100687.art

would just flushing with water also work in this case, I wonder
 
Yes. Water well until the substrate swells up in the pot. Continue to rinse daily. Next time use fresh pure-peat or a greener substitute. Hold the nutes until you've seen greener plants. Introduce nutes gradually, taking care, and noting the results of measured quantities.
 

Marz

Stray Cat
I am not sure about your problem, but just saying, yesterday cleaned some of my plants, chopping off yellowed leaves from the bottom of my lettuce, mint, anise and parsley plants. It's a natural process, as my grandma uses to say, if you pull it gently and it falls, it's time is gone. If you're on ROLS, don't flush it.
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
This is living soil. I added a bunch of feeding goodness (I hope, cause I also tossed in some really smelly 1 week old tea, probably full of bacteria) to the other tent that is one month behind and blooming, then re-inoculated it with more Rootwise. It is starting to show the same leaf browning.

No idea what to do with these late flower blues. I won't foliar spray ferts anymore, and am skaird to feed the soil nitrogen at this late stage. The leaves sure look like they are low on nitrogen though.
 

Marz

Stray Cat
Now I got it, maybe these inoculants are blocking nuts flow, makes sense.
Late flowering N deficiency looks like a good sign for me. Watering over Rootwise can bring back life you need to late flowering.
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
Nothing you can do other than waste money on nutes.

Some people never exercise and are buff, while other bust their ass in the gym and never lose those love handles. Genetics baby.


Every strain is different when it comes to N uptake, they're also different in how much light they need to produce sugars. You can usually see that in the color of the leaves. In veg, some are dark green, some can be quite pale.

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
When a plant is close to harvest and starts going through senescence (end of life), it stops taking in nutrients from the soil, and starts cannibalizing it's fan leaves for nutrients. It will do this when it's thirsty as well. According to the UofGuelph on a study of the effectiveness of flushing, it has no effect (flushing) because the plant isn't taking in nutrients from the soil.

(Note that the plant's nutrient intake decreases over time during senescence. It's not like flipping a switch and intake is immediately cut off from soil nutrients.)
 

dlxtpnuo

Active member
Light-wavelengths give plants instructions, like: flower, produce more resin and ripen. I expect some of our resident LED growers can tell you, that using the right LED's plants can go on floweirng until they keel over. In theory this is possible, though I respect end of life cycle. Amazing what different lighting can do though. It's like, you change a bulb or LED, and the plant starts flowering all over again. Doubt if plants stop taking in nutrients. They take in water or they die. Water contains minerals. Plants need the minerals for various tasks.

Like to be gifted that plant you wanna chop. I think I could get more flowers off it.


Ave it :thank you::thank you::thank you::thank you::thank you::thank you::thank you:
 

dlxtpnuo

Active member
I would veg that plant out again; the one you wanna chop. Totally veg it out, and let it grow bigger for a few months, and then flower it again in a few months. In the old days we had to flower plants early to sex them. Now beans come feminzed, and this is like 50% extra Free beans to us oldskoolers. Chuck out the males (like English women do!!!). Long vegging makes bigger fatter colas. It's as simple as that!
 
Nothing you can do other than waste money on nutes.

Some people never exercise and are buff, while other bust their ass in the gym and never lose those love handles. Genetics baby.


Every strain is different when it comes to N uptake, they're also different in how much light they need to produce sugars. You can usually see that in the color of the leaves. In veg, some are dark green, some can be quite pale.

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
When a plant is close to harvest and starts going through senescence (end of life), it stops taking in nutrients from the soil, and starts cannibalizing it's fan leaves for nutrients. It will do this when it's thirsty as well. According to the UofGuelph on a study of the effectiveness of flushing, it has no effect (flushing) because the plant isn't taking in nutrients from the soil.

(Note that the plant's nutrient intake decreases over time during senescence. It's not like flipping a switch and intake is immediately cut off from soil nutrients.)

Totally agree. Genetics baby is the number 1 thing about growing. People overthink and mentally masturbate over the minutia. The biggest thing I have learned in almost a decade of growing, in organic soils, is let the genetics do their thing. Provide a quality soil and feed, dont overdo it and keep them damp not over watered. I have had strains that looked pretty plain color wise and yellowed AS IS NORMAL in the end and turned out to be fantastic. Have had other grows that looked like picture perfect plants that were bunk weed and others in between.
 
G

Guest

Genetics are over rated. Nutrient is the most important aspect of growing. I doubt the experience of anyone who says otherwise.

Fading from the bottom up is not related to senescence. The bottom fade is your soil report for next season.

The top fade (falls colors from the top down) indicates senescence. This can be shortened or prolonged by nutrients, regardless of genetics. In the same way a man can eat a diet that boosts estrogen; he will grow man boobs despite his male genes.
 
Genetics are over rated. Nutrient is the most important aspect of growing. I doubt the experience of anyone who says otherwise.

Fading from the bottom up is not related to senescence. The bottom fade is your soil report for next season.

The top fade (falls colors from the top down) indicates senescence. This can be shortened or prolonged by nutrients, regardless of genetics. In the same way a man can eat a diet that boosts estrogen; he will grow man boobs despite his male genes.

Sure, whatever you say pal. Great genetics grown side by side with shit genetics will prove that point all day long but hey you know all. Its the same for animals. uninformed opinions like that are why I stopped coming hear and deleted my old account. Maybe I should stop again. Same old stupidity on display time after time.
 

Mattbho

Active member
Genetics are over rated ?

That maybe funniest thing I've read all year.

Imo genetics are the most important part of your grow ,everything else is less important .

Take an elite cultivar and grow it under a few screw is l.e.d.s you will harvest some smokeable bud.

Take shitty genetics and 20k worth of equipment you still won't get a decent joint.
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Sure, whatever you say pal. Great genetics grown side by side with shit genetics will prove that point all day long but hey you know all. Its the same for animals. uninformed opinions like that are why I stopped coming hear and deleted my old account. Maybe I should stop again. Same old stupidity on display time after time.

It seems they left instead. Can't say anybody will miss them either.
 

KIS

Well-known member
Couple of thoughts to share:
1. You really cannot effectively diagnose plants from a photo. Too many variables to consider.
2. A photo or look at the entire plant is important to determine if it's a mobile or immobile nutrient. Nitrogen would be the easiest example of this.
3. A lot of "deficiencies" in organic soil can be linked to improper watering. Too much or too little water both create the same problem....root hair death which limits nutrient uptake.

If you do indeed eliminate other environmental variables like water, temp/humidity, lighting, air flow, container size, etc....then this paper I'm attaching by Paul Cockson is the best resource for university based research on cannabis deficiencies.

https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3417/9/20/4432
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5yIFNVjAWg
 
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