What deficiency is this?

[DEVIL OG]

I'm trying out organic soil for the first time.

Picture is of gg#4 reg seeds The deficiency is showing on all gg#4's and also slightly show on all mango haze's.

In the mix is :
Fishbone meal Blood meal
Kelp meal
Crab shell meal
Oyster shell
Fulvic acid
Humic acid
Mycorrhizal
Greensand
Dolomite lime
Diatomaceous Earth

Coco Coir
EWC
BioChar blend

I just feed 7.8ph RO water,

Please tell me what is needed to fix this issue.

 

[GanjaLion]

Hey, seems like your ph is over a point too high. Try watering with 6 - 6.7.

 

[exploziv]

Looks like mg to me. If it's from ph watch closely for Ca and P deffs as well.

 

[Growenhaft]

Why do you use RO water in a calcium and magnesium addict plant without replenishing the necessary minerals?

use tap water and your problem will vanish within 3 days.

 

[DEVIL OG]

Thanks ,

 

[Creeperpark]

As long as you pH is 6.7, you will not release the right amount of nutrients. If you lower you pH and make it more acidic, you will make the nutrients available from the acidic exposure. Acid is what make the nutrients bubble loose from the media. You have everything you need in your mix, you just need to make them more available.

 

[DEVIL OG]

Ok

 

[TanzanianMagic]

I agree - magnesium deficiency because of the use of R/O water.

You can either use tapwater; or put 1 teaspoon of magnesium lime in a quart of water for a day, syphon off the clean water and add 3 quarts of R/O water.

Also, in an organic grow, 7.0 pH is a very safe pH. In an organic grow, the pH can swing between 6.0 to 8.0 and the bacteria are still good with it.

The way to set the pH is to look at the pH of the ingredients you use.

 

[f-e]

RO isn't 7.8 so I imagine a meter problem exists.
The substrate pics speak of under-watering. I once watched someone that kept wetting just the surface with a sprayer, and had no idea the bottom of his pots were crispy dry. The pics here look the same. Wet in the middle but dry as a 90s Christmas at the edges. This will hamper the uptake of many things.

I think the watering procedure needs looking at. RO is a solvent so shouldn't be used neat. The pH reading is off. Soil looks dry.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

RO isn't 7.8 so I imagine a meter problem exists.

RO can be pretty much anything. I'm getting the same pH before and after RO filtering. What does change is the hardness of the water - the amount of acid or nutrient solution it takes to lower the pH. It also means that the RO water adjusts to the pH of the medium.

 

[Guest]

The shape of your leaf says calcium, the discoloration says magnesium. I had the same problem with RO. Magnesium was rare, don't skimp on the calcium.

I agree - magnesium deficiency because of the use of R/O water.

You can either use tapwater; or put 1 teaspoon of magnesium lime in a quart of water for a day, syphon off the clean water and add 3 quarts of R/O water.

Also, in an organic grow, 7.0 pH is a very safe pH. In an organic grow, the pH can swing between 6.0 to 8.0 and the bacteria are still good with it.

The way to set the pH is to look at the pH of the ingredients you use.

I just read an old post from you saying this. I knew I wasn't crazy. The ppm of dolomite water goes up steadily without a drop of acid, but "you can't make your own calmag" they said. Thanks for the recipe. The sodium in my tap doesn't jive with sea based amendments.

 

[xst89soi7d]

I'm trying out organic soil for the first time.

Picture is of gg#4 reg seeds The deficiency is showing on all gg#4's and also slightly show on all mango haze's.

In the mix is :
Fishbone meal Blood meal
Kelp meal
Crab shell meal
Oyster shell
Fulvic acid
Humic acid
Mycorrhizal
Greensand
Dolomite lime
Diatomaceous Earth

Coco Coir
EWC
BioChar blend

I just feed 7.8ph RO water,

Please tell me what is needed to fix this issue.

This is compost burn. In the right conditions any substrate, particularly old substrate, breaks down into a rich nutrient soup and excessive live bacteria. Rinse your pots with fresh water and the symptoms will go away. Start by soaking the pots completely by watering for several hours. Then heavily water every day, and this will flush the rich excess of nutes. Your plants are not too bad here but substrate is too dry and may be rotting. Left long enough these plants can go completely yellow. Use plenty of fresh water and new growth will appear green again in a few days. You will have to use a much lighter substrate if you want to leave your pots to become dry as they are here. Stop adding so many nutes.

 

[f-e]

RO can be pretty much anything. I'm getting the same pH before and after RO filtering. What does change is the hardness of the water - the amount of acid or nutrient solution it takes to lower the pH. It also means that the RO water adjusts to the pH of the medium.

I have not seen a filter that bad, though have thought about it. The range I use have elements as low as 91% efficient. I have found sediment filters work better closer to source, as sediment gets broken into smaller parts as it moves through the distribution system. I imagined that a less effective filter would be taking the larger particles out with greater ease than the smaller ones. These tend to be Alkaline. I don't recall a pH drop though from reasonable sediment removal.
A decent RO filter produces something a little under 7 as it takes on CO2. They can only remove about 50% of Boric acid to. So seeing a high pH seems odd. What pH do you see?

I swear RO bust one of my pH meters years ago. I won't measure it directly now.

 

[flylowgethigh]

I have seen soil vids that say NOT to use RO, but instead tap water that has the chlorine (or chloromine, takes a better filter element) removed with a carbon filter. It works, and you may still have to add cal-mag the first half of veg if under LED.

I pH my soil to 7 or higher, and the water down to 6.3

 

[jolee]

Unless your water is off the scale just use tap water and your plants are showing a mg def. Nothing more

 

[St. Phatty]

Why do you use RO water in a calcium and magnesium addict plant without replenishing the necessary minerals?

use tap water and your problem will vanish within 3 days.

What is the best source of Magnesium if you have slightly alkaline water ?

Lime has magnesium, and it's also alkaline.

Once I tried grinding up Magnesium metal in a ball mill.

Makes some GREAT sparks.

A lot of work though, there has to be an easier way to get Mg, for when you don't need Lime.

 

[f-e]

Magnesium Sulphate (epsom salts)

Edit: No... I failed. It's not acidic

 

[flylowgethigh]

The ag lime here is calcium. Dolomite lime comes from somewhere nasty that used to be a mine, per the farmer I asked. It is a source of MG. Since Mg is the building block of cholorophyl, I am thinking it can also come from grass clippings and leaf mulch in the compost.

https://tennesseevalleyresources.com/products/

 

[Growenhaft]

Was ist die beste Magnesiumquelle, wenn Sie leicht alkalisches Wasser haben?

I probably don't understand them correctly ...

if you use RO water and only want to add magnesium, it does not matter whether the water is alkaline or acidic. It would not work in cultivation if Calizum is not added in the right proportions.

it is related to each other and forms the degree of hardness. without cazium, magnesium is worthless. If the carbonate hardness is correct for our plants, the pH value of the water also becomes more stable. the cabonate hardness prevents the pH fluctuations.

Everyone has carbonate hardness in their tap water. it would be nonsensical not to use them. Whether there are other factors that prevent the use of your tap water can be found in the relevant drinking water ordinance in your country.

You can assume that if your tap water is approved for the preparation of baby food, you will not do any harm to your plants.

Then it comes to the values ​​of your tap water. We are only interested in the PH value and the EC value.

These two values ​​are mainly influenced by calcium and magnesium. All other elements are only present in traces and have only a minor influence on the two values.

if you have an EC value of 0.3-0.6 you will probably not have any problems with too little calcium or magnesium. if this is still indicated by the plant, it is more due to the absorption capacity. there is enough mg. but maybe the medium is too wet or the PH is wrong or the climate is out of control. there are many avenues of exclusion.

In my experience, a base value for water of EC 0.45 has proven to be particularly good for most strains.

If you have the opportunity to find out your water values ​​in detail, then take this chance. pay attention to a ratio of around 3: 1 cal / mag.

If your water has the right hardness with the right pH value, your Cal / mg ratio is bad, it depends on which cultivation method you pursue, which compound is better. Epsom salt, kieserite, algae lime, etc.

Although I'm not a real fan of Epsom salts. If used incorrectly, it makes potassium more difficult to absorb. Then you have beautiful green leaves but buds that are below their potential ... the question then arises, what are you growing? Leaves or buds?

The pH value is stabilized by calcium. depending on the additives you use, this can affect your pH value. Every shift in a certain range, whether up or down, is borne by the carbonate hardness, a buffer effect. With very hard water you need considerably more PH minus than with soft water.

Ideally, they know the influence of their fertilizers on the values ​​of their water. If so, it is easy to adjust your water to the correct range before adding the additives.

With soil and in organic cultivation, you will sometimes experience that the buffer effect is strong enough with sufficient soil volume to cope with a water pH value above 8.

It depends a lot on your cultivation method and your environmental factors at which pH value on average of your plants is best.

I think I'm digressing ...