Wettable Sulfur Question?

[Grateful D]

So Ive been battaling broad mites, and so far have been using avid forbid and nukem. I just switched over to flower, so now the avid and forbid are out, and Im going to start using OGBiowar, Nukem, and wettable sulfur. I know the nukem and the OGBiowar are good to use until harvest, but I have never used Wettable Sulfur before, and I was wondering if anybody has any experience with it. How long into flowering/before harvest is it safe to use? And what is a good amount of wettable sulfur per gallon ratio to mix for a foliar spray?

 

[Granger2]

Don't use wettable sulfur after plants start making resin. You'll not be able to wash it off. Unpleasant, toxic to smoke. Good luck. -granger

 

[Grateful D]

Thanks, i dont thin im gonna use it past week 2, im only 3 days into flower at this point. Do you have any suggestion of the amount of sulfur I should mix per gallon? also i would really love any insight anyone has about doing a sulfur burn for killing pests, such as the amount of time i should burn for? I can find surprisingly little information about sulfur and marijuana, at least as it relates to pests. theres alot more info out there about sulfur burn and PM

 

[Granger2]

I would read and follow label instructions. -granger

 

[redlaser]

If your plants are 3-4 ft max tall, I would consider 118 degree warm air treatments for half an hour, three times spaced every three days. You can hit 120-121 but any higher and the newest growth will be lost. About every 10 inches of height will be one degree of temp difference, so if the plants are too tall the bottom won't be warm enough unless the top is too hot.
I've done it as a preventative a few times to get the technique down, but not used it against an active infestation.

Hot air is an accepted treatment for bedbugs and headlice, not the same but also persistent pests. They have handheld models to use on people and furniture, domes that go over homes that are heated
Don't use fans while heating it will dessicate the leaves.
Also good to clean room and take out plants and crank the heat to 130 or higher with fans for an hour or more a few times
I wouldn't use sulpher beyond week two in flower. In a sulpher burner use pure sulphur

 

[Grateful D]

Yea I will try heat as a last resort method if the spraying doesn't work. Im trying to eliminate the broads not just beat them back. I have already thrown out to full rooms, and I have to try and bring this one to harvest. I ended up vegging way longer that planned fighting the mites, so the plants are pretty big and bushy at this point, I do not think I will be able to get that heat evenly around the whole room. Just been spraying with wettable sulfur, and tomorrow I am gonna do a sulfur burn, since I am about 1 week into flower, Im gonna use the sulfur well I still can, then at the end of next week I am going back to nukem, and gonna try and rotate an OGBiowar Foliar spray that was recomended to me by another poster. If all else fails I will probably buy a shitload of predatory mites, but they are expensive, and I have never used them before so I dont know how effective they are. These things are a fucking plauge. Still havent found a live one, but I have found lots and lots of eggs. They seem to be increasing ever since I switched over to flower and had to cut the avid and forbid off

 

[redlaser]

It's odd not to find a live mite if eggs are present. How positive are you about them being broad mite eggs, are you using a scope of some sort? I'd compare what you have with pics from a university like UC Davis for instance.

 

[Grateful D]

yes... scope every day with 60x-100x, its the only way to be able to see the eggs. They are perfect round milky white circles, almost look like water droplets. look like every picture ive seen online of the eggs. They are much more prevalent on the lower leaves. im sure i have them, like i said ive thrown out my room twice from having my plants destroyed by mites, twisted mutated growth, caoneoing, droopy and waxy leaves, all the symptoms consistant with broad/russet mite damage. The plants are fareing much better this run, but I have been attacking them and spraying relentlesslysince day one. I seem to be able to beat them back, but cant eradicate them. I have no idea how they survived, in between throwing the room out and filling it up again both times i cleaned the room for two weeks in with 50% bleach solution on all equipment and surfaces, heat treated the rooms to 130 degrees with all equipment in it for 12 hours at a time several times, and bombed with pylon foggers. I dont know where I got them from originally, probably from a clone I got from someone. I wish I knew how to eradicate them, because fighting them like I have been is like a 2nd full time job, and i have no idea whether it will be worth it or how the harvest will come out. But i need to get a harvest, I have lots and lots of money into making my room the way it is (its fairly new, so havent gotten any return on what i spent yet), and lots into pesticides and broad mite treatments. So far this run the damage to the plants has been negligible, but we will see if it stays that way through flower. I probably have 50 hours into researching broad mites and the consensus from most colleges and agricuture studies is that the active ingredient in avid and sulfur are the two most effective treatments, I can no longest use avid since im not in veg, so Im going to hit them hard with the sulfur for the next week and a half while i still can before they are too far into bloom, and then Im going to rotate between nukem and Ogbiowar. spider mites were a walk in the park compared to this plague. Hopefully I can get a harvest and then I will figure out a game plan from there, it takes all the enjoyment out of growing having to fight these things constantly like i have

 

[redlaser]

Sounds like you've had more than your fair share of mite damage. When I had them I used mineral oil ( stylet oil) every three days four times and it worked, and it works on pm a few different ways effectively. Not in flower though when trichomes present, dissolves trichomes,learned that the hard way.
People have success with predator mites when used before problems start but after the fact as well. 5% pyrethrum is an option as a spray, I'd alternate it with something else over 3-4 times over 2 weeks although the fogging you did should have been more effective, if it was a strong enough spray.
University's get donations from wealthy pesticide company's and teach that type of agriculture, it was my experience anyway. Not saying some chemicals won't short term, but there are other solutions . Avid and forbid aren't researched for being smoked, so those are uncharted waters, something to consider. The half life's in plant tissue are guesstimations in my opinion unless tested in cannabis, some plants will accumulate things more than others.

One idea is to dunk them if that's possible when treating, more thorough than spraying.
Spider mites are fairly common on house plants and some landscape plants like roses. As you know they thrive in hot dry situations so they don't like being sprayed or high humidity.
There are other fungal/bacterial type solutions that work if you can get the humidity up. pF-97 and Met52 or names close to that are biological sprayed and when contact is made the fungus aggressively devours target mites and insects, more effective than serenade I believe which is similar to ogbiowar.

 

[topcolas]

None of these clowns told you the ratio… It’s 2 to 3 table spoons per gallon for pests and 1 table spoon for pm or for fungicide. Some brands do not have ratios in the back. So it could be confusing sometime. I use submersible pump to keep the sulfur agitated or keep shaking your pump every couple minutes.

You can mix 100% sulfur and sodium hydroxide and sea salt to make more stable solution. And use it along with dr bronners soap as wetting agent. Google “Jadam sulfur fungicide”

If using S and h2o2 only, I wouldn’t use any wetting agent. But you will need more applications for better spray coverage.

Most of times these forums don’t offer answers people seek for. It’s full of opinions and bro science. GLHF!

 

[Creeperpark]

None of these clowns told you the ratio… It’s 2 to 3 table spoons per gallon for pests and 1 table spoon for pm or for fungicide. Some brands do not have ratios in the back. So it could be confusing sometime. I use submersible pump to keep the sulfur agitated or keep shaking your pump every couple minutes.

You can mix 100% sulfur and sodium hydroxide and sea salt to make more stable solution. And use it along with dr bronners soap as wetting agent. Google “Jadam sulfur fungicide”

If using S and h2o2 only, I wouldn’t use any wetting agent. But you will need more applications for better spray coverage.

Most of times these forums don’t offer answers people seek for. It’s full of opinions and bro science. GLHF!

First of all friend, most of the people here don't have mites. Broad mites are usually an indication that the plants are weak and feeble due to inexperience or lacking a healthy growing environment. If you have a hard time finding someone here with a lot of spider mites experience it's mostly because we don't have them. Sorry

 

[Rgd]

None of these clowns told you the ratio… It’s 2 to 3 table spoons per gallon for pests

hey bro..thanks..never knew this or heard it anywhere..[guess I am from clownville]

..oh well I am not

sensitive

yeh definitely sulphur will wreck the taste sprayed on buds..but its quite effective

Most of times these forums don’t offer answers people seek for.

I find they generally do..but feel free to correct us anytime