Wedding Cake - Brown spots on leaves

[Chronic Newfie]

Happy holidays everyone. Hope all is well.

Starting up some wedding cakes seeds from Canuk Seeds.

I'm on Day 20 from sprout.

Using GH Trio + Cal Mag in ProMix with tap water(I run an air stone in a 5gal bucket for a couple days before using)

I need to pick up a new PH meter. But in the past I have never had PH issues. Water has always been 5.8 ish. And I'm really light on the nutes right now considering I'm only going on week 3 from seed. I'm using standard ratios of 1/2tsp to 1 us gal.

I'm seeing some slowed growth and brown spots showing up on one of my girls. From research I've tried todo. I thin its calcium deficiency

Anyone have any idea what might be happening?

 

[DARKSIDER]

Maybes worth checking your water companys website i had the same problem a while ago tried everything to correct it probablys made it worse until i found out that they flush pipes or do some kind of work every year around the november to december months,. my ph was also bang on.. But plants told me they did not like something in the pipework so to speak checked there website and saw what needed to be done to correct the problem hope you get it sorted sooner rather than later good luck..

 

[44:86N]

That sort of thing can be hard to define, and you do have to go through a checklist.

In addition to checking your water supply (maybe use distilled until you figure that out) ---

Looks a bit like too high soluble salts in the soil, too. You know what you've been feeding, any possibilities, there?

Or, that might could be Phytothera lesions, most likely the soil borne variety (my suspicion).

What was the condition of your sprouting soil? Did you do a presoak on the seeds with a sterilizing amount of H2O2? There are pathogens that infect seed surfaces, even coming from reputable breeders. My favorite perennial seed source (Jelitto Seeds, been around since 1732), will caution growers on certain susceptible genus, even with their own sterilized seed.

Did you water the germinating seeds with a mild H2O2 solution? That really helps in all ways.

The good thing is Phytothera is pretty easy to control early on with something like "Phostrol," or "Reliant" -- the actives in these products are basically open source, so there are actually lots of different product names/sizes on this element combo. Just do a search.

If it starts spreading to other leaves after you've figured the water out, then it's a pathogen.

 

[Growenhaft]

you should repot ... and wait longer before watering ... use high quality soil ... your looks badly raped. when repotting you will see how urgently your girls long for space and good earth.

 

[Chronic Newfie]

Thanks for the advice..

I'm getting ready to repot. I have x2 5 L cloth pots. One has year old soil, the other has brand new soil. ProMix HP.

I didn't do any H202 solutions at any point. Can I do that now before repotting? What would be the procedure for me now?

I have been feeding with General Hydroponics - Micro, Grow, Bloom, Calmag. Each @ 1/2tsp per 1gal.

My schedule is feed/water/water/feed/repeat. I water/feed when the soil looks dry.

The roots are very white and hairy.

Going to look into my water supply and shop for a PH meter.

 

[Creeperpark]

Those are water spots from your water. If you use tap water you probably won't need cal-mag, however, the two together will cause bronzing of the leaves. Most tap water has plenty of calcium in it already and a high pH. I have stopped using tap water altogether because of that very reason. The impurities in tap water block the receptor sites and will accumulate in the soil. If you use pure rain or RO water with the Micro, Grow, Bloom, Calmag. Each @ 1/2tsp per 1gal. it would be perfect. However, with tap water it's too much calcium and will show up later in the grow.

 

[Chronic Newfie]

Maybe I should invest in an RO system.

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Using GH Trio + Cal Mag in ProMix with tap water(I run an air stone in a 5gal bucket for a couple days before using)

I need to pick up a new PH meter. But in the past I have never had PH issues. Water has always been 5.8 ish. And I'm really light on the nutes right now considering I'm only going on week 3 from seed. I'm using standard ratios of 1/2tsp to 1 us gal.

1. Promix

There are a lot of products called Promix. I'd need to know which one specifically.

2. Looks like Phosphorus deficiency or lockout.

P lockout happens at a low pH.

Also the leaves are twisted which happens when there are pH issue.

So it's either hot soil or a low pH.

UPDATE

Promix HP for high porosity. The problem is that you're mixing and matching brands of media and nutrient lines. Promix HP is a generic horticultural soilless mix.

If I were using synthetic nutrients, I would stick to a single line that is dedicated to cannabis. Mainly because those products have already been tested out together by the companies themselves.

And it is good idea to get both a pH meter and an EC or PPM meter. Mainly so you can't give the plants too much nutrients by accident, which is bound to happen with daily waterings/feedings over 3 or 4 months.

 

[44:86N]

One has year old soil, the other has brand new soil.

Old soil shouldn't be used unless you've given it a steam sterilization (wet soil, 180F oven, can't remember the time, but all this is searchable).

Too late for the H2O2. Use it at seed sowing and during germination.

 

[44:86N]

It's the pitting/sunken aspect to the necrosis, it's even spread across the worst leaf, discoloration of the veins, and lack of other indications of deficiency. The overall lack of vigor in young plants can be either a pathogen or a deficiency, but the leaves in the pic I cropped don't look deficient.

 

[44:86N]

1. Promix

There are a lot of products called Promix. I'd need to know which one specifically.

2. Looks like Phosphorus deficiency or lockout.

P lockout happens at a low pH.

Also the leaves are twisted which happens when there are pH issue.

So it's either hot soil or a low pH.

Phosphorus lockout happens with a high pH, but Creeperpark pointed out if he's using tap, it may be high. I don't anything about know that, I've been on a well for 24 years.

But.

If everything is the same, except year old soil has been added to the equation...

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Phosphorus lockout happens with a high pH, but Creeperpark pointed out if he's using tap, it may be high. I don't anything about know that, I've been on a well for 24 years.

But.

If everything is the same, except year old soil has been added to the equation...

My response was to Chronic Newfie, not 44:86N.

I have no problem with anyone who joined this forum before December 1st 2021.

 

[44:86N]

My response was to Chronic Newfie, not 44:86N.

I have no problem with anyone who joined this forum before December 1st 2021.

Interesting.

My response was to anyone who wants correct information.

Who has time for problems with anyone?

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Interesting.

My response was to anyone who wants correct information.

Who has time for problems with anyone?

You do. Leave me alone. Do not breathe in my direction again. Understood?

 

[Growenhaft]

really now? you would like to discuss ph phosphorus and tap water values ​​... with the plant shown in a beer mug with raped soil? repot in fresh, usable soil ... learn how to water properly ... and all problems will vanish into thin air. first repot in approx. 3l ... when this is rooted in the next size approx 7l ... and shortly before you switch to flowering go to 14l pots ...

 

[44:86N]

Yeah, that old soil is the issue. Probably has no buffer, so maybe that dude above who mentioned too low pH/phosphorus lockout was correct -- due to lost/no buffer, the soil pH has drifted down and locked out the pH. I've never had a "low pH phosphorus lockout," but certainly it can happen.

Knowing the perimeters of whatever substrate you're using is just as critical as knowing your water quality.

 

[Chronic Newfie]

Hey all, Just thought I'd pop in to let everyone know my plants are better.

It was the water. I think I left it for too long and it got stagnant. I was topping it up instead of replacing the water. I let it sit to get rid of the chlorine as I don't have an RO system. RO isn't in the budget either.

So I have just been feeding tap water + nutes with out letting the water sit for 24 hours before use, like I normally do.

I have replanted and all seems fine.

Also to prove it wasn't the soil. One pot has new soil the other the same year old soil that was stored in my garage.

I need to figure out when and where to top each one now. I feel like they are too young to top yet. I'm not sure.

​

 

[Sunshineinabag]

Can I interest u in worry free soil?
she done bounced back like a hard pecker

 

[Chronic Newfie]

I'm pretty open to suggestions.

I feel like I'd like to go organic if i'm going to stay with soil.

Have a lot of interest for DWC too.