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Waterfarm Modification Tutorial

whobeboo

New member
Waterfarm Modifications Tutorial
General Hydroponics Waterfarm Modifications.

The Waterfarm from General Hydroponics is a drip system that has been around for many years. A reservoir add-on is available along with a circulating system. This tutorial will show you how to make good system into a great system.

Here is a picture of a single waterfarm unit.


waterfarm.jpg


Here is General Hydroponics description of the Waterfarm unit.


“The complete WaterFarm is designed to be a stand alone system and includes all the items listed below. This system is sized 1’ x 1’

This system includes
• 4-gallon reservoir
• 2-gallon growing chamber
• Pumping column
• Column support tube
• Drip ring
• 1/2" grommet
• Drain level tube
• Elite® 800 air pump”



It consists of an upper chamber that hold the grow medium (usually hydroton or something similar), a lower chamber that hold the nutrient mixture, and a tube that show you the level of nutrient in the lower chamber. Internally, there is percolator tube (just like the old coffee makers) that uses an air pump to bring the nutrient from the lower chamber to the drip ring on top.

Here is a picture of 8 waterfarm 8-pack system.

waterfarm_res.jpg

Here is General Hydroponics description of the 8-pack system.

“The WaterFarm 8-pack is eight WaterFarm module units connected to one General Hydroponics Controller: and integrated 13 gallon reservoir and an 8 gallon controller unit. The Controller will keep each unit topped off with the correct level of nutrient for low maintenance. The kit is powered by GH’s Dual Diaphragm Air Pump, and includes all the necessary hardware…”

Here is a picture from the instructions file that gives you a better idea of how the system works.


WF-RES1.jpg



Now for the modifications​

Individual waterfarms.

The first thing that you want to do is to drill out the holes in the upper chamber. They are too small and do not allow thr roots to get into the lower chamber. I drill them out to be slightly smaller than the hydroton (or whatever your using). This prevents the hydroton from falling into the lower chamber. This also allows the root system to get into the lower chamber.

By adding an air stone to each waterfarm, they can become a DWC system when the roots get into the lower chamber. This combination of a drip system and DWC system provide lots of oxygen and nutrient to our babies. I normally use the drip system when they are little and switch to DWC when they get bigger.

8-pack system

One inherent problem with the 8-pack system is keeping the nutrients in each individual unit to the correct PH and PPM. You would have to check each unit, and both reservoirs. General Hydroponics realized this and created a circulation system kit. This system circulates the nutrient through all of the individual units and back into the lower reservoir chamber. The kit costs about $30, but can be created by purchasing the individual parts for much cheaper. The system uses the same percolation tube to circulate the nutrient as the individual waterfarms use to pull the nutrients into the drip ring. You can purchase the additional grommets, tubing and a waterfarm modular kit (that has the percolation tube) and do it yourself.

Here is a picture of the General Hydroponic installation instructions for the circulation kit.
Circulate-Instructions.jpg

The link for this pdf is located at the end of this tutorial.

As you can see, the circulation kit is pretty simple to replicate for the DIYer. If you don't want to DIY, you can purchase this upgrade from any Hydro store, they may have to order it in.

Now you have a system that will circulate the nutrients between each unit and the lower reservoir. I know of some growers that just use the lower reservoir at this point.

I wanted to incorporate the upper reservoir into the system, but ran into a problem with the upper reservoir not having the same PH and PPM as the lower. So I needed to include the upper reservoir in the circulation system. To achieve this, I installed a small submersible pump in the lower reservoir that pumps into the upper reservoir. As the level in the lower reservoir goes down, the float valve opens and the contents of the upper reservoir drains into the lower reservoir. I placed the pump on a timer and it runs for two minutes every hour. You have to make sure that the pump doesn't work faster that the ability to drain from the upper reservoir into the lower.

Now I have achieved a system that incorporates all components of the Waterfarm system and circulates the nutrients between all reservoirs.

With an air stone in each individual unit, I have created a drip/DWC system with a large reservoir capacity that circulates the nutrients through all components of the system.

A couple of things to remember:

Use dark tubing to prevent light from getting into your system. Light = algae.

Kee your nutrient temperature below 75 degrees to prevent algae.

Make sure that the lower reservoir pump doesn't work faster that the gravity drain, otherwise the pump could run dry. This is why I only run my pump for a couple fo minutes each hour.

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Happy Growing!
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Here are some links to General Hydroponic pdf instruction files.

General Hydroponics:
http://www.generalhydroponics.com

Waterfarm Individual Instructions:
http://www.generalhydroponics.com/ge...structions.pdf

Waterfarm 8-pack Instructions:
http://www.generalhydroponics.com/ge...oller_inst.pdf

Circulation Upgrade Kit Instructions:
http://www.generalhydroponics.com/ge...structions.pdf



If anybody has any recommendation, additions, or deletions, please send them to me. This tutorial is a ‘work in progress’ and I’m always trying to improve it. I will be doing these modifications for a buddy in a couple of weeks and will add pictures to this tutorial.


Whobe:moon:
 

MickFoster

Active member
Excellent tutorial. I have been using the 8 pack waterfarm for several years and couldn't be happier with the system and the results it produces. I don't use the 13 gallon reservoir at all - I just use the controller unit without the float and add either a nute solution or water daily depending on how much they drank - takes about 2 minutes. Also I'd rather mix 24 gallons of nute solution each week instead of 37 - my plants have never needed 13 gallons of additional solution in a week - saves on water and nutes. Once the roots have grown into the bottom rez (about 2 weeks or so) I remove the drip ring altogether and run an airline down to the rez to an airstone - cuts down on evaporation and the humidity. One other thing I'd like to mention - make sure the temperature of the nute solution is below 75 degrees or you have big trouble. I add SM-90 to each nute change to be safe. I just noticed that you said "if anybody has any recommendations, additions or deletions, please send them to me." I didn't know if you meant pm you or reply to this thread - if you meant pm you - I apologize - don't want to highjack your thread - it's great information.
 

Hovz

Active member
great tutorial whobeboo. I have the 8-pack system and am trying to work out all the kinks before i get started. I'm glad you made this thread, keep up the good work.
 
D

dongle69

To achieve this, I installed a small submersible pump in the lower reservoir that pumps into the upper reservoir. As the level in the lower reservoir goes down, the float valve opens and the contents of the upper reservoir drains into the lower reservoir. I placed the pump on a timer and it runs for two minutes every hour. You have to make sure that the pump doesn't work faster that the ability to drain from the upper reservoir into the lower.
The standard small air pump works great for this as well, without the need for a timer.
 

whobeboo

New member
The standard small air pump works great for this as well, without the need for a timer.

Hi Thanks for your input. I am confused (normal state for me!). Are you saying to use the standard perculator pump (the one that the WF uses) to pump into the upper reservoir? I tried that, thinking that if it pumped into the upper (rather than the lower) then it would recirculate back into the lower, but the pump wasn't strong enough to pump up the extra 2 feet (height difference between the bottom of the lower and the bottom of the upper). Maybe I needed a stronger air pump?

This is why I went to a small submersable pump. When I ran the submersable (without the timer) then it would drain the lower reservoir faster that the gravity feed filled it.

Or have I missed the point of you comment?!

Thanks
 
D

dongle69

Yes, the standard percolator pump is what I am talking about.
You would need a 2nd air pump.
Still use the existing air pump for recirculating all of the buckets to the lower reservoir.
Maybe that is why you had the problem?
The pump (like you experienced) will have a hard time moving water through 8 buckets and all that tubing in addition to going all the way to the top of the top reservoir.
Keeping the float valve clean is a must...
 

whobeboo

New member
Yes, the standard percolator pump is what I am talking about.
You would need a 2nd air pump.
Still use the existing air pump for recirculating all of the buckets to the lower reservoir.
Maybe that is why you had the problem?
The pump (like you experienced) will have a hard time moving water through 8 buckets and all that tubing in addition to going all the way to the top of the top reservoir.
Keeping the float valve clean is a must...

Yes I understand. Makes sense. You are correct, I was trying to draw through all of the WF's and into the top chamber and it wouldn't do it.

I am assuming that you have done it this way without a problem? It would be cheaper doing it your way than mine. I will be doing these modifications to a friends system in a couple of weeks and would like to try it. I will also take some pictures to add to the tutorial.

THANKS for your great input!!! :woohoo:
 
D

dongle69

I used to run with the extra air pump but I prefer to keep the top reservoir separate.
I find that the ph constantly rises in the Waterfarms.
I just fill the top reservoir every week or so with a low ph mix so I never have to worry about keeping up with what the buckets and lower reservoir are doing.
 

whobeboo

New member
I used to run with the extra air pump but I prefer to keep the top reservoir separate.
I find that the ph constantly rises in the Waterfarms.
I just fill the top reservoir every week or so with a low ph mix so I never have to worry about keeping up with what the buckets and lower reservoir are doing.

What nutrients are you using? From your comments, it sounds like you doing a nutrient add back and not just water. I checked out your links to your grow room and I am impressed. I am running the lucas formula with GH prooducts. I have seen a slight PH drift, but not too bad. I do a partial strength add-back when I add to the res'es. I like your idea of keeping them seperate. I have seen others with the WF system keep the upper res seperate from the circulate.

Thanks for your input!
 
D

dongle69

I use FloraNova Grow in my Waterfarms currently.
I use them for mother plants.
I also use enzymes and h2o2 on occasion.
When I mix my top reservoir, I use full strength (ec of about 1.4 for my moms).
When the plants are fed a balanced diet, there is no buildup of nutrients in the bottom reservoir and buckets.
 
Nice tutorial, I've been thinking of purchasing either a CAP Ebb & Gro Waterfarm or DIY. This is a very nice tutorial, I have the smallest of the Rainforest units, and while I can DIY a better cloner with ultrasonic fog, I have to say the thing is a quality piece of plastic, absolutely no wrapping when full.... Are the Waterfarms the same rigid ABS grade plastics? Never seen or handled one in person.
 

SpasticGramps

Don't Drone Me, Bro!
ICMag Donor
Veteran



These are the waterfarms predecessors. While expensive (about the same as waterfarm), they grow great trees. They are bigger too. When my new flower room is done I'll hook these up are recirc.
 

bubbagump1970

New member
Great thread I hope it still gets eyes on ....

I made mod to a single wf module and it worked great at maintaining the nutes below 75 degrees..

http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Thermostat-Chiller-Heater-Adjustable-Fish-Tank-Marine-Salt-Fresh-Water-/302149965750?hash=item46598a97b6:g:eek:FoAAOSwHMJYOnZd

It works very well on my single WF basicly a submersible pump pumps nutes from my waterfarm rez to the chiller and then returns it chilled to the specified tempeture (20 deg celsius aka + or minus 75 deg F )


Now to my Intentions: I would like to modify the Reservoir or the controller(standard controller for 8 pots in this same manner so that i can Chill/ aerate/maintain nute concentration /h20 topoff etc from the single point of the reservoir while using the circulation upgrade kit to distribute the optimum temp,aerated,ppm that it will receive from the optimized Reservoir...
I will most likely be using only 4 or 5 WF max as I dont have the room nor desire for 8

Does anyone see any holes or issues with my theory/ concept ( i do realize that its recommended that every 7 to 10 days to scratch old solution and clean but i figure i can drain each individual WF (ill put a shut off valve from controller to first WF for maintenance purposes)

Thanks for any input ,If anyone would like more details or pics of the mod for the single water farm chiller ,let me know
 
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