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water chiller pro and cons

I was getting ready to buy a chiller and was wanting to know if anyone has had and troubles with the brand the own? some of the chillers are made by sunleaves and wanted to know if they were built to withstand some of the fertlizer we use.
 

Asil

Member
I would make sure that the chiller has titanium tubing in it. This way it will no be affected by the nutes in water you are chilling.
 

BudGood

"Be shapeless, formless, like water..."
Veteran
Besides that, you may want to look into how long the company has been building them. I'd buy one from someone that has been building chillers for a long time. :2cents:
 

BudGood

"Be shapeless, formless, like water..."
Veteran
I'm not using one, my setup enables me to get away with it. I had some problems from high room temps this last run, but my water was nice and chilly. Insulate your buckets, it helps immensely.
 
Hillbilly

I'm using a Teco TR-10 with the optional UV sterilizer. Teco chillers are quality equipped with a titanium heat exchanger. Made in Italy
 

Me2

Member
Another option is to bury a loop of plastic water pipe at least 3ft deep around your yard and run your nutes through that.
 
i would recommend looking on craigslist or something. i found a 1/10th HP JBJ Artica which retails for $500 for $200. i love the thing man, works like a charm. it is also titanium, and it has an easy temp set and your temps stay within 1 temp. my temps were up in the low 80s and now i keep it at a steady 68F. i even have my buckets insulated and my temps were rising that bad..what are you guys temps who say you rely solely on insulation?
 

Lazyman

Overkill is under-rated.
Veteran
I had an ecoplus, everyone I know that used one had the first one go bad in 1-3 months, then the replacement lasted forever. Just a tip.
 

Abnjm

New member
Sunleaves Aquachill 132

Sunleaves Aquachill 132

I have the Sunleaves 1/10th HP chiller for my 20 gallon rez. Keeps it at 68F no matter what. No problems with the operation, but I am still trying to figure out how to clean it efficiently...
 
I have the Sunleaves 1/10th HP chiller for my 20 gallon rez. Keeps it at 68F no matter what. No problems with the operation, but I am still trying to figure out how to clean it efficiently...

hey bro, i was recommended by the guy i bought my artica from to pump 50/50 vinegar/water mix BACKWARDS through the chiller for a few hours. i did exactly that and was very impressed with how clean it got. of course make sure you run enough clean water through it aftewards to clean the vinegar.
 
jbj arctica and oceanic

jbj arctica and oceanic

has anyone tried these models jbj artica or the oceanic integrated chiller. the oceanic has a integrated heater control so you can plug in you heater element also
 

Natagonnaworrie

If you love life, don't waste time. For time is wh
Veteran
Hey Guys, Quick question. I have a friend who runs a 12 site Recirc DWC setup and is running into some problems. One thing, first off is that he definitly needs a chiller. A 1/10 would do the trick but he is about maxed out on electric. What i need to know is: If the 1/10 needs about 150 watts, is that a constant draw? Basically, is it like a (example) 150 w light or more like an on / cycle kind of deal? Maybe it would be more energy efficient to get the 1/4 HP? And it runs less often. I have never used one so i'm just brainstorming ATM.
:1help:
Thanks for any info you can offer. :wave:
 

festivus

STAY TOASTY MY FRIENDS!
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Another option is to bury a loop of plastic water pipe at least 3ft deep around your yard and run your nutes through that.

I always wondered about using an operating fridge as a chiller- take out all the shelving, put in a rez tank, drill 2 holes in the sides, for in and out, and that's it! The fridge's thermostat could be used to maintain the temps in a set range. Anybody ever tried it??
 
Hey Guys, Quick question. I have a friend who runs a 12 site Recirc DWC setup and is running into some problems. One thing, first off is that he definitly needs a chiller. A 1/10 would do the trick but he is about maxed out on electric. What i need to know is: If the 1/10 needs about 150 watts, is that a constant draw? Basically, is it like a (example) 150 w light or more like an on / cycle kind of deal? Maybe it would be more energy efficient to get the 1/4 HP? And it runs less often. I have never used one so i'm just brainstorming ATM.
:1help:
Thanks for any info you can offer. :wave:

I am running the same 12 site RDWC setup, I got the 1/4 and it only needs to kick on every so often. I have it on a 20A curcuit with a 1000w hps and various pumps and electronics. Efficiency wise, sizing a chiller uses the same principles as getting the correct size AC for your room. Too large and it will actually raise your humidity because the coil needs to run for a minute before it reaches operating temperature, then it will kick off in a second while it flash freezes your water to the correct temp. The water/air temp will fluctuate and struggle to stay at a constant level. Too small and it will always be running; you will use more electricity and the chiller will put out a lot of heat. Both are obviously inefficient.

Probably could have gone with the 1/10 but I think the 1/4 was perfect. It has been running for about a month with no problems, the water stays at a perfect 68deg and I never have to worry about it.
 

ChaosCatalunya

5.2 club is now 8.1 club...
Veteran
I do insulation instead, there is no cord to plug in.

So worth repeating....

Why complicate your garden with a chiller, when something as simple as a few layers of bubblewrap or some strategic shading can do the job.



I suspect a lot of the UK NFT growers who are suffering from Pythium problems may find that they start the problem when they plant out a new crop of small clones, plenty of spare light directly hits the top plate for many days until the plant canopy develops and shades it, the temps under there can get really high and it may be this that sets off the problem, likewise for DWC units and other systems.
 

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