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Water and H20 questions: Moving water long distances & multiple reses or just 1?

flyer81

Member
Because of the heat in my area I recently picked up a water chiller as well as 200ft of soft copper pipe with a plan to make something similar to a wort chiller for beer making. The plan though is to have 4 of these, one for each reservoir. Ideally I would also like to add in an icebox heat exchanger to cool off some of the air as well.

Here is the issue: between 50 gal reservoir, 4 wort chillers, and an icebox, I am looking at about 60 ft of pvc, 12 ft of plastic tubing, and 200 of copper tubing. I need to move water from my reservoir and through essentially 275ft of 1/2 pipe. Am I out of my mind here? Is this doable? What size pump should I be getting for this? Im going to try and keep the vertical rise to a minimum but that is a fairly long distance to move some water. maybe 4 ft at most vertical and that is mainly to clear the top of the reservoir.

Anybody do anything like this? Suggestions on water pump size? Is it possible/helpful to put an inline booster water pump somewhere in the middle?

On another note, I have 4 reservoirs. 2 for veg systems and 2 for flowering systems. 2 each in 2 rooms. I figured it would be better to keep them separate as being on a perpetual cycle, I figured keep different nutes for different cycle times separate. Is there any benefit to this? Or should I have just one reservoir for each room, and keep all plants on the same res system regardless of position in the cycle. (Result being periods where plants at end of flowering are getting 50% nutes for a week because they are sharing a res with plants just making the switch)
 

Chemovar

Member
my local hydro store sells stainless steel res chillers I'd just go with one of those in each res. Bring water in then setup a manifold so each chiller gets cold water that hasn't already sucked up a ton of heat.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
hi, we have developed a hydro system that does not require chillers and grows giant plants at high speed. pump works 10 minutes per day. i intentionally run my reservoirs at 80-82f and have never had root rot.

look at the "big plant ppk" thread in the vert forum.

and the 1/2" pipe will restrict you to small pumps as your plumbing id ideally should match your pump output diameter as a minimum.

so you could find a pump maybe that will pump water up 4' through that length of 1/2" pipe but it will be very slow.
 

flyer81

Member
Wow. Thanks D9! Im about half way through the thread right now and it looks good. I guess that makes this thread a bit less important now. Ive been looking at ways to cool my room down as I am running at 82 deg with about 2000w of lighting on over veg and flower rooms. I figured if I cant cool the room down might as well cool the solution. The way Im looking at this now is that with the PPK I would not have to worry about nute temperature and could put all of my efforts into cooling the room. It would eleminate the need for wort chillers while allowing me to put my chiller to work cooling heat from the CO2 gen and also using an icebox to cool the room which means I could likely turn another light on. Groovy!
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Wow. Thanks D9! Im about half way through the thread right now and it looks good. I guess that makes this thread a bit less important now. Ive been looking at ways to cool my room down as I am running at 82 deg with about 2000w of lighting on over veg and flower rooms. I figured if I cant cool the room down might as well cool the solution. The way Im looking at this now is that with the PPK I would not have to worry about nute temperature and could put all of my efforts into cooling the room. It would eleminate the need for wort chillers while allowing me to put my chiller to work cooling heat from the CO2 gen and also using an icebox to cool the room which means I could likely turn another light on. Groovy!

great! if you run co2 your ideal temperature should be 86f so that would further offset your need to cool.

if you have a liquid cooled generator why not run the hot water out of the room into a holding tank?

i use one and run the water from a pressurized source and then capture it for nutrient mixing.
 
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D

DHF

hi, we have developed a hydro system that does not require chillers and grows giant plants at high speed. pump works 10 minutes per day. i intentionally run my reservoirs at 80-82f and have never had root rot.

look at the "big plant ppk" thread in the vert forum.

and the 1/2" pipe will restrict you to small pumps as your plumbing id ideally should match your pump output diameter as a minimum.

so you could find a pump maybe that will pump water up 4' through that length of 1/2" pipe but it will be very slow.
Welcome F81.....Forget all about chillers and rootzone temps preventing root rot , cuz that hybrid bastard system of D9 has moved beyond normal fast hydro setups and allows minimal bells and whistles for maximum returns on investment once dialed.....

Go look at HL45`s "Love Machine " thread in vert-ville and see what he did with my old 4 plant 5 light setup where each plant receives optimum wattage from 3 lights at all times......

HL`s in the "upper" percentile of takin D9`s PPK`s to the next level cuz he`s in the dialin process with the right hybrid to hit 12 lbs and up once all ducks are in a row in a simple 10 x 10 room with 5 KW bare bulbs hangin.....

Good luck and ask questions while readin and readin again........Lotta SOLID old head knowledge and experience here from several sources , so get to work and make shit happen....Just don`t jump till yas have a good plan of attack.....anyways.....

Good luck and.....

Peace.....DHF.....:ying:.....
 

flyer81

Member
Thanks DHF! Yep, I keep reading and I keep learning. Regularly upgrading my system and getting things more dialed in. Its to the point now where I am hitting the genetic limits of my current strain.

With this thread I was looking for a way to keep things a bit cooler as everything I have ready up until D9s thread was that high water temps reduces dissolved O2 which can then lead to algae, root rot and other problems. But now I find out that its not a problem at all. My current system is based on ebb and flow buckets. I started out brand new last summer with waterfarms and am a few weeks from chopping down my first bucket plants which are in 3 gallon buckets in a top feeding system. Still working on breaking the 1lb barrier.

Im seriously going to look into modifying my existing buckets into PPKs as it looks great. Thanks!
 

flyer81

Member
Thanks DHF! Yep, I keep reading and I keep learning. Regularly upgrading my system and getting things more dialed in. Its to the point now where I am hitting the genetic limits of my current strain.

With this thread I was looking for a way to keep things a bit cooler as everything I have ready up until D9s thread was that high water temps reduces dissolved O2 which can then lead to algae, root rot and other problems. But now I find out that its not a problem at all. My current system is based on ebb and flow buckets. I started out brand new last summer with waterfarms and am a few weeks from chopping down my first bucket plants which are in 3 gallon buckets in a top feeding system. Still working on breaking the 1lb barrier.

Im seriously going to look into modifying my existing buckets into PPKs as it looks great. Thanks!
 
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