very slight yellowing during flower.

[Cookie monster]

Plants: are in coco/perlite/hydroton
Nutes: metrop range, mr2@ 75mil amino bloom @ 80mil calgreen @ 30mil to every 100 litres of water.
Temps: low 20's and mid teens when the lights are off.
Humidity:40ish %.
Ventilation: 2ft oscilating fan for air in , exhaust is pulled out through the air cooled hood.
PH: is about 6.2 going in and run-off ph is 5-ish.
Strain is white diesel.

Right well the plants are between the 3rd or 4th week of 12/12 with no real problems so far.
Lately the newer growth seems to be showing a very slight yellowing in the upper part of the plant, leaves seem to lack the lustre of the lower leaves.
I half suspect it may be a combination of soft water and the mr1 being phased out a few weeks into flowering.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=3266&pictureid=43644
The only other changes i can think of is the switching to 600w hps for flowering and the actual switch over to flowering itself both seem unlikely causes of the problem.


As you can see the yellowing is very slight i know it's hard to see but it is present.
Am i right in thinking it's the beginnings of a mg deficiency and some epsom salt may help.

What would ye guys do or have you any advice to offer.

 

[magiccannabus]

Magnesium is usually a pretty safe thing to give to them. They seem difficult to overdose on it. I cover my soil up though when I do any salt foliar. Salts in the soil is bad bad bad.

Your temps are insanely low unless you're using Celsius....?

 

[theHIGHlander]

i wouldnt do anything at the moment bro...from that pic she looks a mighty fine plant... can you get any closer pics?

keep it green
highlander

 

[midwestganja]

Looks great to me..

 

[ThisBuds4You]

Lookin' good so far, I wouldn't do anything either just yet. Monitor the situation and re-visit in 4-5 days.

--
TB4U

 

[brainlab]

think the low night temp could be a thing to raise if possible. dont think they enyoy it.
but they look fine to me =)

 

[Cookie monster]

Right well the general consensus seems to be leave it be for a few days and see how it plays out.

Heres a more reacent pic yellowing is no better or no worse.


i'll keep the nutes the same for a few days and see what i can do about the night time temps .

 

[Crush]

As you can see the yellowing is very slight i know it's hard to see but it is present.
Am i right in thinking it's the beginnings of a mg deficiency and some epsom salt may help.

What would ye guys do or have you any advice to offer.

They are very slowely hitting nute lockout due to your PH levels IMO. The veins just havent turned yellow yet.

Do a flush right away and UP your ph .3 or so which means the runoff should be more tolerable at 5.3

Also, I hate to ask for this, but mix a small batch of new nute solution.. same strength as what you are mixing in your 100l resevoir and see if that makes a difference. One of the aditives in your solution could have broken down already if you mixed 100L a while ago so over time your plant is falling slightly short of a certain nutrient or mineral over time. But I dont think it's that. It's just 'safe'. Like giving yourself a new car to get to work - It wont let you down for a while and is reliable.

Your nute solution seems to be right on, it's just the PH is SLIGHTLY too high or low most likely IMO though. (can't tell actually.. more high and it gets more N and dark green leaves, more low and the leaves are light green.. that's why i'm siding on upping the PH.. this is just my dumb guess though).. either way lockout looks the same with the viens looking the way they do.. it's like you're tetering on that edge).

I would personally try to kill 2 birds in one stone and try both methods.

 

[rave420]

am i the only person that thinks that the plant looks A OK?

I mean... my growing shoots always look a bit more greener than my older fan leaves, and i can't really spot a deficiency here. I mean... the plant is growing fine right? Continue to fertilize as usual, and see what happens. I don't think there is the need to modify your schedule here. Also, i think a plant that looks like that is using the nutrients supplied very efficient. See, there is the high and the low end of the scale. The high end is nute burn and the lower end is a deficiency, and your plants seems to be shifted slightly towards deficiency.

Don't worry unless there is a problem. Plants are not meant to look pleasing to the human, so don't think there is something wrong when the plant doesn't look 100% as you expect it too. Plants are living things too and have a lot to do in their short live, so give them some slack. Don't just go modifying something just so it "looks healthier".
If there is a problem, then you can help by correcting the deficiency. That is the job the human plays. Making sure the plant has appropriate conditions to grow in. If the plant just "looks bad" but still grows fine without problems there is no need to screw around. And to be honest, your plant looks pretty damn fine


You know, i don't even add stuff like superthrive, just because i think it's making plants do things it's not supposed to. See, i think of plants as a living thing, and i am essentially "farming" when i am "growing". I treat my plants with love and respect, and try to fulfill their needs and satisfy them. Means, i do my best to give them the most fertile soil, the best atmosphere and the best lightning conditions as possible, as close to outside as possible. If i do that i can make my plants grow extremly healthy and lush. The plants might like superthrive in a way that humans like speed. Speed pushes us to the limits, so does all the hormones etc you can treat your plants with. I don't say that is a bad thing. In certain situations you might want to push the limits. It's simply that i chose not to. I don't say anybody else has to agree. From experience, the best cannabis has been the "happy cannabis" that grew without modern grow gimmics. Of course, nothing beats cannabis grown under the sun.

Hope i didn't come off as harsh, i just wanted to voice my opinion in general. Hope nobody takes offense. One love guys and girls ~

 

[w00dy]

can anyone tell me why my leaves are yellowing and turning a purpleish colour the day temps are mid 80's night are mid 60,s humidity around 40 the ph fluctuates between 5.8 and 6.5 im running her in a dwc with pure blend pro, cha ching, Carbo load, and .25 tsp epsom salt per gal she's around 35 dayz 12/12

hope you dont mind CookieMonster by the way i think your girl is fine.

 

[Crush]

the ph fluctuates between 5.8 and 6.5

That's the problem. Adjust the PH DAILY or every 2 days. I would never let it go about 5.8. Get a glass eye drop from any pharmacy and measure the drops it takes to bring your bucket down .1 points. Also change your res weekly so each week is like a fresh start for the plant.

 

[w00dy]

thanx Crush. so what should the ph be at i thought its supposed to be lower in hydro than in soil?

 

[Crush]

thanx Crush. so what should the ph be at i thought its supposed to be lower in hydro than in soil?

Depends on the strain and time of flower.

I kept mine at 5.3-5.6. I would go the basement every 2 days, measure my PH, it would be at 5.5, I would add 7 drops, then it would be at 5.3. 2 days later it would be back up to 5.5 and I'd repeat the process. During veg I was hitting 5.6-5.8 I think. That was for a Jack Herrer f2 cross which was very picky and finicky.

Sativa's are very picky and finicky. They have lighter lime green leaves and like less ph, more light, and humidity.. they have slim leaves that are hard to keep straight and nice unless they are under ideal conditions... Like a slim girl.. they are usually picky eaters and always uncomfortable and hard to keep happy but wow they can do gymnastics in bed and reward you well when they are treated good!

Indica's have darker leaves, eat more nutes, are less picky with PH and light, can take less humidity and heat, and are easier indoors. Kind of like a heavy trucker woman who is more tough and accepts a bit of ribbing and abuse. She'll be easy to keep.. and while not that great in bad, gets the job done more or less. Some find the tough trucker woman more rewarding than putting up with the rollercoaster ride of being with a skinny girl.

Those are the basics of your plants.

I would identify your plant, find other people growing it in hydro, and ask what they are using, or, start with a PH at 5.5 and a fresh batch of nute mix in the resevoir and that can garuntee you wont have problems unless you have too much PPM. The highest I went was 850 in my last grow.

Every .1 makes a difference and I wouldn't go above 5.8. But make sure to check your strain out.

 

[JazzJazz]

Cookie Monster....
How long into flower did you keep your veg nute regime going? I ALWAYS keep my veg nutes going for 1-2 weeks into flower ( switching 12/12 ) so that the plant doesn't stress to much with a sudden drop in N. IMHO the slight yellowing is probably the lack of nitrogen in early flower. Your plants look good other wise so next time around try keeping your veg nutes alittle longer into flower and this should correct this early yellowing. Don't add in any extra N now as your too far in to correct this and you will have to flush out anyways. Hope this helps.

Peace,
Jazz

 

[Cookie monster]

Sorry jazz it cant be a N problem well at least i'm reasonably sure but as always i'm open to correction.

N in the reccomended metrop feeding plan is given to the plant until the end of the third week of flowering.

Crush it should'nt be a ph lock-out either, i do mix up 8 1.5 gallon batches of nutes it was just to make explaining things easier that i went with the x amount of nutes per 100 litres i think most nute mixes give the amounts per 100 litres.
Ph was bumped up slightly plants will be fed that slightly higher mix for the next few days i'm away at the moment but hopefully all will be sorted by the time i get back.

Stay safe everybody and thank you for helping i know it's not an easy problem to sort out.

 

[Weedman Herb]

It took me looking at the latest pic for almost 1/2 hour ... If we're talking about directly below and to the left of the bloom ... I see the lighter shade in there and the leaves appear to be starting to get a little bumpy or wrinkles ... Crush might have a point on the run off ph ... 5ish seems low for coco ... dropping a full point in the translation seems excessive. But if you're comfortable with that ... How close to the canopy is that 600? Is it aircooled ... safety glass ... bare bulb? What did you switch to it from??

 

[Cookie monster]

weedman thats the right leaf, it is the worst of them ( i know it's not bad but on ounce of prevention and all that ).

To answer the few questions you put.
Light is an air cooled hood you know the type fully enclosed save the veny holes and the 4" hole for the fan ducting, glass between bulb and plants type of thing.

Distance is about 2 foot to the canopy, origionally they were vegged under an enviro light ( blue spec. 150w ) then went into flowering under 600w hps using a son-t bulb which was changed for a new osram plantastar 600w hps bulb.

The bumpy leaves are nothing to worry about, pic was taken as the plant was just starting to pop out a few trichs, bad photo i know but thats the reason for that.

Honestly this is driving me nuts it's not getting worse or better growth has not slowed and apart from the slight yellowing the plant is healthy and thriving.
i could'nt give a damm about the plant it's more the not being able to figure out the exact root of the problem thats killing me.

Thanks to all for the help be you right or wrong, 100% right would be nice but life would be too easy and wrong or off the mark answers help me to eliminate certain factors so thank ye all.

 

[Cookie monster]

They are very slowely hitting nute lockout due to your PH levels IMO. The veins just havent turned yellow yet.

Do a flush right away and UP your ph .3 or so which means the runoff should be more tolerable at 5.3

Also, I hate to ask for this, but mix a small batch of new nute solution.. same strength as what you are mixing in your 100l resevoir and see if that makes a difference. One of the aditives in your solution could have broken down already if you mixed 100L a while ago so over time your plant is falling slightly short of a certain nutrient or mineral over time. But I dont think it's that. It's just 'safe'. Like giving yourself a new car to get to work - It wont let you down for a while and is reliable.

Your nute solution seems to be right on, it's just the PH is SLIGHTLY too high or low most likely IMO though. (can't tell actually.. more high and it gets more N and dark green leaves, more low and the leaves are light green.. that's why i'm siding on upping the PH.. this is just my dumb guess though).. either way lockout looks the same with the viens looking the way they do.. it's like you're tetering on that edge).

I would personally try to kill 2 birds in one stone and try both methods.

Well i'm back home to check on the plants.
Crush i would like to thank you, having up'd the PH a tiny bit seems to have made some difference.
I do find it strange as to how the plants could make it into a few weeks of flowering using my old ph levels without showing the slight yellowing.

The only other factors i changed was throwing in a heat mat once again anda little extra epsom salts.


I'm thinking it was a combination of PH being a bit to low going into flowering and a cold root zone,
i dont know it is a bit confusing why would they yellow during flowering when the old ph worked fine from seed thru veg to flowering
It cant have been caused by a salt buildup as they are watered twice a day with easilly a gallon or two of run-off.

Here's where it really gets confusing the slightly yellowed portions of the leaf are now being covered with trichs and i'm left with 3 questions.

Was it ph root temps or just the way white diesel grows.

This is why i hate growing a new strain i swear sometimes it's like your learning how to grow again.

Many thanks to all who reply'd and please feel free to throw up what exactly caused the promblem as i'm still unsure but happy it seems to be easing off.