Vaporizing Sulphur for spider mites mid flower

[oceangrownkush]

A friend of mine has a room of GG4 that has a pretty bad spider mite population. He's going to spray some oils in early/mid flower (triact70) and I recommended a sulphur burner/vaporizer because sulphur is a contact killer for mites, and my thinking is that a vapor of sulphur is preferable to an oil spray during flower.

I've only used a sulphur vaporizer in veg, can anyone relay effects in flower? I've heard burnt pistils but successful treatments other wise, hoping someone can chime in with experience.

 

[_tessarecting]

I believe theres a 4 week systemic effect, so I dont use it past week 2, or if there are trichomes present.

 

[Chimera]

It clings to the resin and ruins the flowers. Don't do it.

Bad mites in flower means a complete tear down, your buddy fucked up in not taking care of the problem earlier in flower, and now he has to pay the consequences of his inattention. Tt this point he is just ruining the flowers by spraying with anything or vaping sulphur, I suggest a tear down and start over otherwise he is just producing low quality flowers that won't even extract well, because the sulphur gets right into the resin and you can;t get it out.

 

[redlaser]

Sulphur treatments would have to be at least 21 days after the oil to avoid the two combining and causing phytotoxicity. Doesn't sound very salvageable.

 

[oceangrownkush]

For sure :/ poor guy. Thanks for the input. I feel silly for having made the thread now. I remembered reading a post about an early sulphur treatment for broad mites that resulted in a salvaged crop, there is too much resin on the flowers definitely.

 

[lysergicCO]

I don't think there is any systemic activity to worry about with sulphur. I've used it a few weeks before harvest and it definitely affected the taste. You are better off with a vacuum cleaner. Mighty wash / Ultimate wash also works very well.

 

[KONY]

Don't

 

[Mikell]

Water works. At the very least break up any webbing, if present. TSSM give up on rearing to rebuild.

 

[Weird]

no oils or sulfer, residues

Best thing to do is buck infected leaves into a bucket of soapy water (bronners) and then use bronners to beat them down.

It is a bit caustic in that at 1oz per gallon it will start to burn hairs.

You can foliar with water after you get them out of the way to remove any residue you fear from bronners.

Neem meal tea or cilantro based sprays can also be used without much of a residue because they are not being held in oil.

Im sure there are other options there are off the top of my head.

 

[stoned-trout]

do you like burning matches..it will ruin the crop....yeehaw

 

[wolfhoundaddy]

After I started using ewc the mites went away. I don't know if it was because of the ewc itself or my plants got way healthier. Never came back.

 

[BubbaBear]

If it was me I'd hit them with a Pyrethrum tr fogger, it will freeze them in there tracks, if you have a heavy infest you need to treat the room not just the plants.Then use a vacuum to suck off as many carcasses as possible. Then use some EZ WET to kill the eggs and any freshly hatched nymphs.THEN switch to a microbial product such as OG Biowars Foliar Pack or other microbial product aimed at killing mites or at the least some earthworm casting tea. So at this point your essentially just spraying water on your plants that's helping washing off dead mites and eggs and providing microbes and enzymes that will aid in breaking down mite carcasses and eggs and providing microbes to help ward off PM and bud rot. If it's within two weeks of harvest I'd use some Nuke Em instead of the Pyrethrum fogger, it will also kill eggs so you can also skip the EZ WET and go straight to microbes, it works well you just have to be thourgh with your spraying. THEN after all that I'd switch to ozonated water to sterilize your flowers and oxidize any contaminants. And there you go chemical free mite and egg free, microbial free flowers.

 

[Limeygreen]

He should spray he whole crop with 2-4% safers soap then toss everything to the garbage, wash down the room, scrub it with bleach, air it out then start again with preventative predatory mites for the next round, adding more as needed. Sulfur doesn't kill mites.

 

[oceangrownkush]

Sulfur doesn't kill mites.

Sulphur absolutely kills mites, do your homework. Sulphur is a mite contact killer.

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7405.html

To update the thread, vaccumming of flowers and application of predatory mites has salvaged the crop. The battle still rages on the flowers but there is 90% less spider mites and damage has lulled to a halt.

 

[Mikell]

Any damage from the vakoom?

 

[oceangrownkush]

Any damage from the vakoom?

I'm told the very first nugget took the brunt of the damage

 

[BubbaBear]

The newer style of Dust Busters are great, they seem like there made for sucking mites off plants, the suction isn't so strong that it sucks off leaves and it's suction hose is narrow so buds don't fit in it. Its a lot easier to manouver around the plant than a standard vaccum too.

http://www.amazon.com/CHV1410-Dustb...TF8&qid=1460903668&sr=1-6&keywords=dustbuster

Here's a great read on setting up a cannabis specific IPM with nothing but predator insects and microbial insecticides.

http://www.evergreengrowers.com/fil...d/?d=0&file=custom/upload/File-1454530813.pdf