i've never heard of anyone using h2o2 for anything other than problems. i got springtails once and dosed them with h2o2. they're actually beneficial, but i didn't like em. i was told that the h2o2 would kill any bennies you have in your medium. i have only used it once. it didn't kill all the springtails...
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Unofficial Coco Coir Growers Thread
- Thread starter Coco Nuts
- Start date
well this guy seems to agree with you in a way bonecarver, hes talking about hygrozym which is also peroxide product. check it out...
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=949605#post949605
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=949605#post949605
i've read that most enzymatic additives will help clean the medium. not all enzymatics break down, some build up. some compounds and hormonal substances change the chemistry of what is in the coco. even if you rinse it well, some products will leave traces messing up your next cycle. i supposed there is some kind of chemical bond going on. i'm sure someone is working on another additive for this....
interesting discussion guys-
Ian's article in Max yield is fun (he's a good bloke by the way). I've been expeimenting with different concentrations of the stuff in hydro for years (used the test strips and all that) with good results and still spray cuttings in rockwool with 17% at 1ml/L which keeps any mould/damping off at bay.
I've found that, in trying to eradicate pythium, it's possible to give the plants four times the max recommended dose of H2o2 (ie 1ml/L/day of 17%) and the plants didn't seem to suffer any ill effects-but it didn't completely kill off all the pyth either
now i'm clear that it is not good to use H2o2 with certain 'live' products, it says so on the labels-and am pretty clear that it is not a good idea in coco because the Canna reps told me that-so hearing that Hygrozyme includes H2O2 worries and confuses me-
guys where are you getting the hard info on Hygrozyme-because all i can find is commercial schpeel -like that guy posted in the other thread
eddie
Ian's article in Max yield is fun (he's a good bloke by the way). I've been expeimenting with different concentrations of the stuff in hydro for years (used the test strips and all that) with good results and still spray cuttings in rockwool with 17% at 1ml/L which keeps any mould/damping off at bay.
I've found that, in trying to eradicate pythium, it's possible to give the plants four times the max recommended dose of H2o2 (ie 1ml/L/day of 17%) and the plants didn't seem to suffer any ill effects-but it didn't completely kill off all the pyth either
now i'm clear that it is not good to use H2o2 with certain 'live' products, it says so on the labels-and am pretty clear that it is not a good idea in coco because the Canna reps told me that-so hearing that Hygrozyme includes H2O2 worries and confuses me-
guys where are you getting the hard info on Hygrozyme-because all i can find is commercial schpeel -like that guy posted in the other thread
eddie
B
bonecarver_OG
cheers mate
2
20kw dreams
H2O2 kills off bacteria, enzymes, etc. I have used it straight at 3% to clean up pythium ,with no ill effects to the roots that were noticeable. But about what Gaius was saying, how the plants get addicted to it: It's becasue pathogenic organisms are the fastest organisms to colonize. They are the organisms responsible for decay of organic matter in nature, and so are very opportunistic. Anyways, H2O2 actually kills off the good micro-organisms first, and pathogens are extremely durable, and extremely difficult to kill, to the point where you will damage the plant severely before you actually completely wipe out the pathogens. In the end, you are actually giving them the advantage by using H2O2.
Weak doses though do add DO to the water, which canprevent pathogens simply by supporting root health, but this would really be in more of a DWC or NFT type water culture.
Innoculation is the ticket though. I just picked up AN's Piranha and Tarantula, after using some other cheaper innoculant in the past. Innoculants definately make your roots go CRAAAZY! In fact, in my worst bout with Pythium, a commercial Trichoderma(T-22 to be specific, forget the strain) called Rootshied(GH's florashield) was the only thing that finally started winning the battle. I had water temps under 65F, enzymes, beneficial bacteria, etc, with no success against this shit I got. That Rootshield finally broke the stranglehold, and I started seeing while hairy roots. Too bad it was way to late.
That crop went from 6kw to 1kw, and yielded appx 1g/plant, with 96 plants. Hows that for a yield
Weak doses though do add DO to the water, which canprevent pathogens simply by supporting root health, but this would really be in more of a DWC or NFT type water culture.
Innoculation is the ticket though. I just picked up AN's Piranha and Tarantula, after using some other cheaper innoculant in the past. Innoculants definately make your roots go CRAAAZY! In fact, in my worst bout with Pythium, a commercial Trichoderma(T-22 to be specific, forget the strain) called Rootshied(GH's florashield) was the only thing that finally started winning the battle. I had water temps under 65F, enzymes, beneficial bacteria, etc, with no success against this shit I got. That Rootshield finally broke the stranglehold, and I started seeing while hairy roots. Too bad it was way to late.
That crop went from 6kw to 1kw, and yielded appx 1g/plant, with 96 plants. Hows that for a yield
B
bonecarver_OG
20kw dreams said:
do u have any links with info for this claim?
i have now been searching a bit for a few days and i have yet NOT come over anything backing that up
i need to read what u guys have read
hehe just got to know
peace all
wow-thats a serious dose, it makes my 17% diluted to 1:1000 seem very weak. To get it to that strength i'd have to dilute it 1:4. Might try bumping the strength up a bit then
cheers
eddie
B
bonecarver_OG
ive used 3 % peroxide mixed about a few table spoons / 10 liters
for misting i use a stronger dose.
several times during summer i have the clones infected by a funghi that looks like a diminute stick with a ball - like a glandular trichome but about 5 - 10 x bigger. this is an airborn funghi that the humid and warm conditions make bloom with a extreme speed - it has in one occasion killed 30 seedlings over night. (we get 35+ celsius nights in the summer)
this leads me to believe a sterile, clean growroom is the best deal i can get - since the extreme temps make the oxygen almost un-available in the water for the roots, makes all funghi and bacteria bloom very quick, and also it affects the growth rate etc (u all sure know about temps and growing huh?) - but luckilly bigger plants can handle this - but seedlings and clones tend to be much more fragile.
the only way around this that i have found this far, that lets me use my mini incubators for clones and seedlings in summer indoors is H2O2.
misting - or in the rez
it even let me finish flowering normally at 40-52+ degrees (celsius) during last summers extremelly high temps (hottest year in 40 years)
if i can find something proving me im doing something absolutelly preposterous - i will stop and look for something else that will work likewise.
now hygrozyme is very expensive and i would have to order it from the states or similar (even more costy)
this year is starting of with the hottest winter in a very long time - and the summer is allready here.. in a few months the temps will go up above 30+ and i will be in trouble again.
and this year i will have MORE moms than ever - and im starting to get worried hehe
this is why i really need to know.
the fact the growshop ppl here recomend PPL not to grow in COCO or hydro here, is for me a REASON ENOUGH TO DO IT hehe the fact they have had very crappy results and i got the complete oposite - is pushing me on
peace all
for misting i use a stronger dose.
several times during summer i have the clones infected by a funghi that looks like a diminute stick with a ball - like a glandular trichome but about 5 - 10 x bigger. this is an airborn funghi that the humid and warm conditions make bloom with a extreme speed - it has in one occasion killed 30 seedlings over night. (we get 35+ celsius nights in the summer)
this leads me to believe a sterile, clean growroom is the best deal i can get - since the extreme temps make the oxygen almost un-available in the water for the roots, makes all funghi and bacteria bloom very quick, and also it affects the growth rate etc (u all sure know about temps and growing huh?) - but luckilly bigger plants can handle this - but seedlings and clones tend to be much more fragile.
the only way around this that i have found this far, that lets me use my mini incubators for clones and seedlings in summer indoors is H2O2.
misting - or in the rez
it even let me finish flowering normally at 40-52+ degrees (celsius) during last summers extremelly high temps (hottest year in 40 years)
if i can find something proving me im doing something absolutelly preposterous - i will stop and look for something else that will work likewise.
now hygrozyme is very expensive and i would have to order it from the states or similar (even more costy)
this year is starting of with the hottest winter in a very long time - and the summer is allready here.. in a few months the temps will go up above 30+ and i will be in trouble again.
and this year i will have MORE moms than ever - and im starting to get worried
hehethis is why i really need to know.
the fact the growshop ppl here recomend PPL not to grow in COCO or hydro here, is for me a REASON ENOUGH TO DO IT hehe
the fact they have had very crappy results and i got the complete oposite - is pushing me on peace all
to be honest i have seen the stuff happening to people that 20K is talking about. if you want more air there are better ways to add it. back on OG it was easy to find people using h2o2 products as a cheap fix, but it never ended up working. the plants would perk up the first time it was used, but after that they would slowly go down hill and the regular addition of h2o2 barely allowed the plant to be harvested. like i said in a sterile type grow op, it's probably ok. although an air pump and chiller will do much more useful work even then.
but if you really want to experiment with it in coco, then i'd be interested to see how it goes, i would limit the test to 1 plant though, but thats just me.
but if you really want to experiment with it in coco, then i'd be interested to see how it goes, i would limit the test to 1 plant though, but thats just me.
to be honest i have seen the stuff happening to people that 20K is talking about. if you want more air there are better ways to add it. back on OG it was easy to find people using h2o2 products as a cheap fix, but it never ended up working. the plants would perk up the first time it was used, but after that they would slowly go down hill and the regular addition of h2o2 barely allowed the plant to be harvested. like i said in a sterile type grow op, it's probably ok. although an air pump and chiller will do much more useful work even then.
but if you really want to experiment with it in coco, then i'd be interested to see how it goes, i would limit the test to 1 plant though, but thats just me.
but if you really want to experiment with it in coco, then i'd be interested to see how it goes, i would limit the test to 1 plant though, but thats just me.
B
bonecarver_OG
well - since i had a few hours spare time this evening i went ahead and did some deep research in the matter.
i will post in a little while some info (well documented and backeup) that i think will make a few ppl here perplexed and amazed.
peace
i will post in a little while some info (well documented and backeup) that i think will make a few ppl here perplexed and amazed.
peace
B
bonecarver_OG
the last week i have been going thru a lot of webpages looking for good info on the H2o2 subject.
i think this site kind of explains it the best.
http://www.growingedge.com/community/archive/read.php3?s=yes&q=1181
Dr. Lynette Morgan replies:
"Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is a powerful oxidation agent. It will oxidize all organic matter, whether it be pathogens, old pieces of root system, algae, or young plant roots. The chemical cannot tell the difference between a dead root system and one that is alive. What actually happens in a hydroponic nutrient solution is that a certain amount of organic matter will always be present, including spores, vegetative material, old roots, pathogens, algae, bacteria, fungi, etc. When we dose in H2O2, is first reacts with the organic matter it makes contact with--whatever is floating round in small pieces in the nutrient. As the H2O2 reacts with this organic matter in the nutrient, it become deactivated and can no longer attack organic matter. If the H2O2 has been heavily dosed in, it will react with organic matter in the nutrient. Then, when all of this has been oxidized, the leftover H2O2 has the potential to damage the root systems it comes into contact with.
Older root systems have a more resistant, tougher outer layer than young seedlings and are usually not damaged unless H2O2 has been dosed in at very high levels. Lettuce is one of the most sensitive plants to H2O2 damage, particularly in the seedling stage. Rates as low as 10 parts per million (ppm) have been found to damage lettuce seedling root systems under some conditions. This "damage" wasn't enough to change the appearance of the root system, it simply reduced plant growth--sometimes by as much as 40 percent--without the grower even knowing there was a problem (this was on trials run in NFT systems).
So, what actually happens is that if you dose in H2O2 into a very clean nutrient--one that has very little organic matter for the H2O2 to work on--it will attack the plant roots and could cause damage. If you have a nutrient solution that has a high organic load (perhaps a nutrient that has been in use longer), the same dose of H2O2 gets deactivated cleaning up the nutrient and the plant roots aren't affected.
The problem is that it's difficult to decide how much of an organic load is in a particular nutrient. Therefore, it's difficult to know what level of H2O2 is safe to use. If your dose of H2O2 consistently works in your nutrient, without any reduction in growth or yield, then you have the dose calculated right. However, I would suggest that if you replace the nutrient with a fresh batch, that you lower the dose of H2O2 to prevent any possibility of damage to seedlings."
...
i think Dr Morgan explains it well pretty much she is saying this:
(no organic matter in rez) + H2O2 = H2o2 attacks roots and "beneficials" in soil/medium since it has no chance to react with anything.
(organic matter in rez) + H202 = attacks the pathogenes and organic matter in the rez - and only if there is excess of H2O2 after this it could possibly affect the roots.
also i have found out the time it takes for H2O2 to breakdown in a rez - 48 hours.
i think the best thing for DO i can do in the future is to get a REZ-COOLER. its going to bring up the disolved oxygen.
http://water.me.vccs.edu/courses/ENV110/temperature.jpg
interesting link about water and disolved oxygen (also explains about aerobic, anaerobic and facultative micro-organisms living in water)
http://water.me.vccs.edu/courses/ENV110/Lesson12_print.htm
"Microbiology is the study of microscopic forms of life, such as bacteria. In microbiology, organisms can be divided up based on the type of oxygen they require for life. The three categories are aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative.
Water, the home of most bacteria, contains oxygen in two forms. The first form, free oxygen, is the most readily available form. Free oxygen is basically the same as dissolved oxygen - oxygen from the atmosphere which has become dissolved in water.
Aerobic bacteria require free oxygen in order to survive.
Oxygen can also be found in the water in another form. Food and even water itself contain oxygen, but this oxygen is tightly bound to the food and water. As you can see in the picture above, each molecule of water contains one oxygen molecule (O) and two hydrogen molecules (H). The oxygen can be ripped out of the water molecule by anaerobic bacteria, but it takes much more energy to break apart food and water in search of oxygen than it does to simply use free oxygen. Since anaerobic bacteria use so much of their time and energy scrounging for oxygen, they take longer to digest organic matter in water.
The third type of microorganisms, those which are facultative, have properties of both aerobic and anaerobic organisms. They can live with or without free oxygen. When the oxygen content of water is high, facultative bacteria consume food very quickly using the free oxygen in the water. In low oxygen concentrations, facultative bacteria are still able to consume organic material, although they do so much more slowly."
well - this means :
H2O2 is good for keeping the rez clean of organic matter (anything organic) but at the same time the beneficial effect it would possibly have on the roots is minimal, besides oxygenating the rootzone. wich in it self means partial desinfection of the medium.
adult plants with hardy roots are not likelly to get damaged.
the solution is easy: as i suspected the H2O2 reacts very quick in the rez - if its done prior to the usage of the rez water - and the 48 hours have passed, there is no H2O2 left. so if the H2O2 solution is not used at once - it will become inert quickly, and the bio-cide effects will have been lost.
so in other words - its safe to use in the rez - as long as u dont use the solucion for watering directly afterwards.
piece of cake
my conclusion is i have a BIG amount of organic matter in my rez solving that is the first step! the temps the second - and step 3 will be then i will not have to use H2O2 to desinfect my rez.
peace all!
i think this site kind of explains it the best.
http://www.growingedge.com/community/archive/read.php3?s=yes&q=1181
Dr. Lynette Morgan replies:
"Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is a powerful oxidation agent. It will oxidize all organic matter, whether it be pathogens, old pieces of root system, algae, or young plant roots. The chemical cannot tell the difference between a dead root system and one that is alive. What actually happens in a hydroponic nutrient solution is that a certain amount of organic matter will always be present, including spores, vegetative material, old roots, pathogens, algae, bacteria, fungi, etc. When we dose in H2O2, is first reacts with the organic matter it makes contact with--whatever is floating round in small pieces in the nutrient. As the H2O2 reacts with this organic matter in the nutrient, it become deactivated and can no longer attack organic matter. If the H2O2 has been heavily dosed in, it will react with organic matter in the nutrient. Then, when all of this has been oxidized, the leftover H2O2 has the potential to damage the root systems it comes into contact with.
Older root systems have a more resistant, tougher outer layer than young seedlings and are usually not damaged unless H2O2 has been dosed in at very high levels. Lettuce is one of the most sensitive plants to H2O2 damage, particularly in the seedling stage. Rates as low as 10 parts per million (ppm) have been found to damage lettuce seedling root systems under some conditions. This "damage" wasn't enough to change the appearance of the root system, it simply reduced plant growth--sometimes by as much as 40 percent--without the grower even knowing there was a problem (this was on trials run in NFT systems).
So, what actually happens is that if you dose in H2O2 into a very clean nutrient--one that has very little organic matter for the H2O2 to work on--it will attack the plant roots and could cause damage. If you have a nutrient solution that has a high organic load (perhaps a nutrient that has been in use longer), the same dose of H2O2 gets deactivated cleaning up the nutrient and the plant roots aren't affected.
The problem is that it's difficult to decide how much of an organic load is in a particular nutrient. Therefore, it's difficult to know what level of H2O2 is safe to use. If your dose of H2O2 consistently works in your nutrient, without any reduction in growth or yield, then you have the dose calculated right. However, I would suggest that if you replace the nutrient with a fresh batch, that you lower the dose of H2O2 to prevent any possibility of damage to seedlings."
...
i think Dr Morgan explains it well
pretty much she is saying this:(no organic matter in rez) + H2O2 = H2o2 attacks roots and "beneficials" in soil/medium since it has no chance to react with anything.
(organic matter in rez) + H202 = attacks the pathogenes and organic matter in the rez - and only if there is excess of H2O2 after this it could possibly affect the roots.
also i have found out the time it takes for H2O2 to breakdown in a rez - 48 hours.
i think the best thing for DO i can do in the future is to get a REZ-COOLER. its going to bring up the disolved oxygen.
http://water.me.vccs.edu/courses/ENV110/temperature.jpg
interesting link about water and disolved oxygen (also explains about aerobic, anaerobic and facultative micro-organisms living in water)
http://water.me.vccs.edu/courses/ENV110/Lesson12_print.htm
"Microbiology is the study of microscopic forms of life, such as bacteria. In microbiology, organisms can be divided up based on the type of oxygen they require for life. The three categories are aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative.
Water, the home of most bacteria, contains oxygen in two forms. The first form, free oxygen, is the most readily available form. Free oxygen is basically the same as dissolved oxygen - oxygen from the atmosphere which has become dissolved in water.
Aerobic bacteria require free oxygen in order to survive.
Oxygen can also be found in the water in another form. Food and even water itself contain oxygen, but this oxygen is tightly bound to the food and water. As you can see in the picture above, each molecule of water contains one oxygen molecule (O) and two hydrogen molecules (H). The oxygen can be ripped out of the water molecule by anaerobic bacteria, but it takes much more energy to break apart food and water in search of oxygen than it does to simply use free oxygen. Since anaerobic bacteria use so much of their time and energy scrounging for oxygen, they take longer to digest organic matter in water.
The third type of microorganisms, those which are facultative, have properties of both aerobic and anaerobic organisms. They can live with or without free oxygen. When the oxygen content of water is high, facultative bacteria consume food very quickly using the free oxygen in the water. In low oxygen concentrations, facultative bacteria are still able to consume organic material, although they do so much more slowly."
well - this means :
H2O2 is good for keeping the rez clean of organic matter (anything organic) but at the same time the beneficial effect it would possibly have on the roots is minimal, besides oxygenating the rootzone. wich in it self means partial desinfection of the medium.
adult plants with hardy roots are not likelly to get damaged.
the solution is easy: as i suspected the H2O2 reacts very quick in the rez - if its done prior to the usage of the rez water - and the 48 hours have passed, there is no H2O2 left. so if the H2O2 solution is not used at once - it will become inert quickly, and the bio-cide effects will have been lost.
so in other words - its safe to use in the rez - as long as u dont use the solucion for watering directly afterwards.
piece of cake
my conclusion is i have a BIG amount of organic matter in my rez
solving that is the first step! the temps the second - and step 3 will be then i will not have to use H2O2 to desinfect my rez.peace all!
great read bonecarver. i read it stoned and it just flowed freely. i've been thinking of re-using my runoff to re-feed at least one more time. i was concerned as to weather or not there would be life forms to have to deal with. of course the answer is yes. i thought that the h2o2 eating the outermost regions of roots was something you wanted. you know, to eat off the fungi and such. some beneficials, aren't...
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master shake
Active member
ah good ol coir. had great success harvesting funny fungus using this substrate. wonderful to see it works great with mj!
J
JackKerouac
Bongojaz said:
I get about a couple gallons of runoff a week from my coco. I was thinking of using a combination of peat, hydroton, and perlite , adjusting the pH to 6.2 and watering every week or so for my houseplants.
Combination soil/hydro for non-aggressively growing your plants?
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Dalton
Member
Hey what's up guys, interesting stuff about the h202. Can we get a final ruling on the
hygrozyme? I have been using it for a while now and I really like it. I have definately seen an increased root health and the stalks get much fatter with it. I think it has some kind of buffering action to it because it breaks down old roots and elements not being used in the the medium to useable food, which takes care of knuckleheads like myself. I use it at 5ml a gallon and I'm seeing the white fury stuff forming around my coco
which I remember gauis was saying is beneficial bacteria. I hope this means that hygrozyme is safe because I would like to have both. I can't seem to find anything official about hygrozyme and beneficial bacteria. Hopefully it's cool.
Cheers
hygrozyme? I have been using it for a while now and I really like it. I have definately seen an increased root health and the stalks get much fatter with it. I think it has some kind of buffering action to it because it breaks down old roots and elements not being used in the the medium to useable food, which takes care of knuckleheads like myself. I use it at 5ml a gallon and I'm seeing the white fury stuff forming around my coco
which I remember gauis was saying is beneficial bacteria. I hope this means that hygrozyme is safe because I would like to have both. I can't seem to find anything official about hygrozyme and beneficial bacteria. Hopefully it's cool.
Cheers
2
20kw dreams
No links. I dug and dug and dug and dug after I caught a devastating pythium 2 x in a row with my NFT setup (4 months I disappeared). There are actually 3 strains of pythium. One of them likes cold water temps. Apparently I had that one. Those statements are a mixture of personal experience, talking with the program director at my college(he's got 2PhD'd and is pot friendly
and sifting through information about pathogens, especially pythium, rhizoctonia(sp?), fusarium, etc. Find some good info on plant root pathogens, and the other info will follow. I'll find some links later for the library.
B
bonecarver_OG
20 K -if u check the post up there i think its pretty clear now about how H2O2 works
Dalton - if hygrozyme contains H2O2 - it will kill stuff in ur rez.
now u guys got to bear in mind the bacterial life in the coco is NOT something necesary for the cultivacion of MJ, but rather something that helps in an biological aproach.
also got to bear in mind H2O2 would take away the function of Cannazyme, and that is the reason Canna doesnt recomend it. but if u are using an other enzyme product thats not alive (like most longlife shelf products - they are rather a food for the Biological processes in the coco, than a live product - and therefore H2O2 would not affect it)
also from the research its shown some plants are way more sensitive for the H2O2 than others - MJ is a sturdy strong plant that can easilly handle a few dead roots - and the extra oxygen in the root zone will boost the MJ - BUT ONLY TO a CERTAIN LEVEL. when the microbiological life is wiped out the radical oxygen molecules will start oxygenizing the roots.
this is where the fine line comes - to decide if u think it will be beneficial for u in ur grow. this is hardly something anyone can recomend or forbid anyone without having a very deep look into the particular growsituacion.
its clear H2O2 has its uses. NO doubt at all.
but I agree now 100% with Gaius: in a healthy functional coco grow-setup working 100% - there is no need for a cure.
i will today add a tiny bit H2o2 to my rez again. i havent used any since early veg - and it seems to me now the trichoderma has not done much at all - since i have aplied it at 2 occasions in preflowering - and now i got a one plant dead of "sudden plant death" - root rot.
seems the trichoderma is only very little helpfull to fight this.
bear in mind i added trichoderma enough for a football field into my 2x2 meter grow. and if it doesnt work... either i got ripped of with the trichoderma - OR their effect on other fungus is minimal. (research showed the later option)
trichoderma is rather something that may work as a preventive measure. - once the substrate is well inoculated - the other fungus would get a hard start trying to colonize the substrate. but if a substrate is getting steadilly attacked by other microbial life - it seems trichoderma wont do much.
IF u want to use it:
it can be an idea to replace the beneficials of choise after.
peace all
PSST - anyone saw that documentary about the intelligent pythium mould? it can find the shortest road between 2 sources of food in a labyrinth. it moved with a speed of a few centimeters a day.
an asian scientist is studying them to try to improve the infrastructures of our road networks and comunications.
can we stand a chance to a fungus like that?!
Dalton - if hygrozyme contains H2O2 - it will kill stuff in ur rez.
now u guys got to bear in mind the bacterial life in the coco is NOT something necesary for the cultivacion of MJ, but rather something that helps in an biological aproach.
also got to bear in mind H2O2 would take away the function of Cannazyme, and that is the reason Canna doesnt recomend it. but if u are using an other enzyme product thats not alive (like most longlife shelf products - they are rather a food for the Biological processes in the coco, than a live product - and therefore H2O2 would not affect it)
also from the research its shown some plants are way more sensitive for the H2O2 than others - MJ is a sturdy strong plant that can easilly handle a few dead roots - and the extra oxygen in the root zone will boost the MJ - BUT ONLY TO a CERTAIN LEVEL. when the microbiological life is wiped out the radical oxygen molecules will start oxygenizing the roots.
this is where the fine line comes - to decide if u think it will be beneficial for u in ur grow. this is hardly something anyone can recomend or forbid anyone without having a very deep look into the particular growsituacion.
its clear H2O2 has its uses. NO doubt at all.
but I agree now 100% with Gaius: in a healthy functional coco grow-setup working 100% - there is no need for a cure.
i will today add a tiny bit H2o2 to my rez again. i havent used any since early veg - and it seems to me now the trichoderma has not done much at all - since i have aplied it at 2 occasions in preflowering - and now i got a one plant dead of "sudden plant death" - root rot.
seems the trichoderma is only very little helpfull to fight this.
bear in mind i added trichoderma enough for a football field into my 2x2 meter grow. and if it doesnt work... either i got ripped of with the trichoderma - OR their effect on other fungus is minimal. (research showed the later option)
trichoderma is rather something that may work as a preventive measure. - once the substrate is well inoculated - the other fungus would get a hard start trying to colonize the substrate. but if a substrate is getting steadilly attacked by other microbial life - it seems trichoderma wont do much.
IF u want to use it:
it can be an idea to replace the beneficials of choise after.
peace all
PSST - anyone saw that documentary about the intelligent pythium mould? it can find the shortest road between 2 sources of food in a labyrinth. it moved with a speed of a few centimeters a day.
an asian scientist is studying them to try to improve the infrastructures of our road networks and comunications.
can we stand a chance to a fungus like that?!
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