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Unofficial Coco Coir Growers Thread
- Thread starter Coco Nuts
- Start date
yeah i wish canna didn't water their ferts down quite so much, lol. when i think of the new booster i use in flowering, that stuff is a thick syrupy green liquid. it's so concentrated that you have to dilute it in a jug of hot water before you add it to your tank.
J
JackKerouac
Bongojaz said:
How does it compare to AN's Hammerhead? (other than the insanely high price?)
never tried the hammer head. but if you look at bullseye's thread you can see it's doing him proud.
the pk is good, but it's not a magical supplement in anyway. use it right and you can get some 10 to 20% more yield, but you can do that with any good flowering booster if applied correctly.
at the same time you can burn your plants quickly too with the pk and it's like.
whether it's diluted or not, i do not know. it must be, but being a mineral booster it doesn't need to be thick to be strong.
the pk is good, but it's not a magical supplement in anyway. use it right and you can get some 10 to 20% more yield, but you can do that with any good flowering booster if applied correctly.
at the same time you can burn your plants quickly too with the pk and it's like.
whether it's diluted or not, i do not know. it must be, but being a mineral booster it doesn't need to be thick to be strong.
G
Guest
Is coco considered a soilless mix? If it isn't, and someone added perlite to the coco, would it then be considered a soilless mix?
B
bonecarver_OG
depending on how u use it, u can use it as a soiless mix or as a hydro medium.
the later is recomended.
peace
the later is recomended.
peace
Indica Sativa said:
It's just a matter of definition. Officially coco is not soil, therefore soilless. But then again, coco is organic, and even if the decompsition is slow, it rots. A bacteria culture soon develops in coco just as in soil, in fact the two resemble eachother. It's just the dirt missing.
Perlite is an inert medium and does not react chemically in the same sense as soil or coco.
G
Guest
Cool beans. That was just wanna those random questions I like to ask =]
G
Guest
thinking about the sunleaves coco brought up in 20k's thread.....
would a high salt content put off an aroma when wet?
seems there was a wierd smell there when i was prepping it, and i can't smell it now that it's clean
maybe it's just the fresh coco smell???
would a high salt content put off an aroma when wet?
seems there was a wierd smell there when i was prepping it, and i can't smell it now that it's clean
maybe it's just the fresh coco smell???
J
JackKerouac
User Name said:maybe it's just the fresh coco smell???
Ahh, I love the fresh smell of coco in the morning . . .
is hard to go wrong with canna coco
ive been using it for a couple of years always very good quallity with low to 0.0 salt levels, no weeds, bark, flies or discolouring like ive found in pressed bricks or cheeper garden store quallity.
50/50 perlite coco is a good mix for small plants auto feed many times aday, 75% coco 25% clay i use all the time . Straight coco in a big pot can be best for big plants hand watered or auto fed once or twice a day like i did in my last grow 2x plants (1x white rhino + bigbud clone) in 55lt pots of nearly straight coco, 600wt per plant auto fed 3 times aday maintaining about 15% nutrient dripping through the soil "waste" a hard thing to get with big plants small drippers.
ive been using it for a couple of years always very good quallity with low to 0.0 salt levels, no weeds, bark, flies or discolouring like ive found in pressed bricks or cheeper garden store quallity.
50/50 perlite coco is a good mix for small plants auto feed many times aday, 75% coco 25% clay i use all the time . Straight coco in a big pot can be best for big plants hand watered or auto fed once or twice a day like i did in my last grow 2x plants (1x white rhino + bigbud clone) in 55lt pots of nearly straight coco, 600wt per plant auto fed 3 times aday maintaining about 15% nutrient dripping through the soil "waste" a hard thing to get with big plants small drippers.
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yeah-since spotting a few spider mites i've started adding GT Silicon (Potassium Silicate 5% @ 1ml/L) to the nutes-after a suggestion from another coco grower. Also have to add a bit more ph down (phosphoric acid 81%) because it pushed the ph up quite a bit. So thats a double dose of P in a medium high in P-hope it doesn't cause problems.
I've tried Nitric acid (18%) as a ph down in hydro before and it was a nightmare so can't see a way round it atm. The other Silicon that i have access to is the Dutchmaster stuff (also high in P) and Budlink-which may be worth a go as i understand that it does not raise the ph.
eddie
hello and cheers jimjay 
Was a really good grow probally the best quallity bud ive grown. Summer here at the moment outside temps are very good for the strains im growing. grow room temps are high compared to winter grow i did last year 28c to 35c light on 25c light off. In winter below 20c the rhino slows in growth buds stay small but frosty and foliage purples really hurts the yield and quallity.
budlink silica is a very good product also heard good things of silica majic a more concentrated silica . I used BL firstly as a foliar spray to reduce mould spores then found it also works well in the res at low doses to keep plants green and lush looking, plants will certinly handle more heat and higher nute strength at higher doses stems will get huge with massive knuckles on nodes.
On the budlink bottle it says its near impossiable to OD on silica so i tried it out double dose and more at times, every thing was looking good for weeks then suddenly leaves became artifical looking and near brittle. Follow the directions or lower than with budlink and you and the plant will be happy+ its very cheep made close by
.
Was a really good grow probally the best quallity bud ive grown. Summer here at the moment outside temps are very good for the strains im growing. grow room temps are high compared to winter grow i did last year 28c to 35c light on 25c light off. In winter below 20c the rhino slows in growth buds stay small but frosty and foliage purples really hurts the yield and quallity.
budlink silica is a very good product also heard good things of silica majic a more concentrated silica . I used BL firstly as a foliar spray to reduce mould spores then found it also works well in the res at low doses to keep plants green and lush looking, plants will certinly handle more heat and higher nute strength at higher doses stems will get huge with massive knuckles on nodes.
On the budlink bottle it says its near impossiable to OD on silica so i tried it out double dose and more at times, every thing was looking good for weeks then suddenly leaves became artifical looking and near brittle. Follow the directions or lower than with budlink and you and the plant will be happy+ its very cheep made close by
.
B
bonecarver_OG
i was checking out the new pages of the coco suplier i use and they are doing some really interesting things.. im not trying to sell their products - since it seems dificult to get in most countries - but check these out. its interesting ideas
specially design trays and slabs system for hot countries - to use outdoors or in greenhouse:
http://www.pelemix.com/index.php?goto=bep&page_from=226
new idea of coco-growbags:
http://www.pelemix.com/index.php?goto=bep&page_from=97
they also got 70 liter compressed blocks that are about 5 kilo in weight.
now why doesnt these things get to my grow shop..
think i will have to get in touch with them my self maybe..
also found a place in this region that sells 300 liter blocks of compressed coco (www.projar.es) - ideal for bigger ops
peace
specially design trays and slabs system for hot countries - to use outdoors or in greenhouse:
http://www.pelemix.com/index.php?goto=bep&page_from=226
new idea of coco-growbags:
http://www.pelemix.com/index.php?goto=bep&page_from=97
they also got 70 liter compressed blocks that are about 5 kilo in weight.
now why doesnt these things get to my grow shop..
think i will have to get in touch with them my self maybe..
also found a place in this region that sells 300 liter blocks of compressed coco (www.projar.es) - ideal for bigger ops
peace
Dalton
Member
Hey what's up fellow coco fans!
Does anyone know what causes the constant PH rise in a recirculating coco setup? the PH of my coco was @6.0 on the nose when I started. Now after every feed it jumps to 6.5 and I have to keep bringing the ph back down. It's not really a big deal I'm just curious. I also rigged up a flood and drain on one of my 4x4 tables. I tried testing it out and 20 gallons only got me a 1/4 of the way up the table. I'm thinking once I have my pots in there it will raise a bit( There's gonna be 49 6" pots in there). Is 20 gallons going to be enough to get a good flood going?
Does anyone know what causes the constant PH rise in a recirculating coco setup? the PH of my coco was @6.0 on the nose when I started. Now after every feed it jumps to 6.5 and I have to keep bringing the ph back down. It's not really a big deal I'm just curious. I also rigged up a flood and drain on one of my 4x4 tables. I tried testing it out and 20 gallons only got me a 1/4 of the way up the table. I'm thinking once I have my pots in there it will raise a bit( There's gonna be 49 6" pots in there). Is 20 gallons going to be enough to get a good flood going?
even with my run too waste coco grow Ph rises for about 5 days.
have grown in a recirc clay grow so know what you mean by ec/ ph increase as the water content decreases from the res. Whats happening is your plants are using more water than nute from the mix so ec rises and more so in warm climates .. I use to top up my recycle grow daily with plain tap water back to desired ec. This is the old way of doing it is better to have a second res of premix to top up and then dump your soution once every 5 to 7 days but means daily ec/ph checks to make sure everything runs smoothly.. run to waste doesnt have this problem nute isnt recycled and reused so ec stays the same but Ph can move over a week or two.
i expect the Ph rise so start PH at 5.8 after a few days it will be at 6ph where i want it in flower then may got to 6.2 by weeks end lowered with ph down and im ready for the last week from the res...
Another thing to watch is when mixing in the PH down i find it takes ages to mix in well, example i mix nute to 1.8 ec and PH to 5.8 1 hour later when i recheck ec is stable but sometimes Ph has crept upwards needing a fine ajustment. When you test the PH move the wand around deep and shallow if the reading changes the Down isnt mixed in well. Canna organic seems to mix in faster than the phosphric acid and i always use a mixing pump even if its the main pump with the hose pulled off, a seperate mixer on a timer is the go.
My local grow shop wont do bricks anymore burnt too many times now must have had 5 brands of bricks in recent years, problem he has is coco growing is and has been consistant with canna bcuzz and hygen coco the ec is always low and growers dont have too many problems growing run to wate or hand watered.
But with some bricks there not flushed at all, prior to compressing the cococ was stored outside and now full of grass seed. Even so called hydro compressed bricks have there problems not holding water well or too well and goes mushy and dark
brown incouraging bugs into the soil. Try a few cocos youll soon find one you like, coco with neem wont have ultra low ec but unsure if your ment to flush before use.
the last bricks i got where samples of a new coco from sri lanka basicly sold as the same as canna but compressed soaked not steamed. apon opening the panda film wrapper straight away there was a problem coco was bone dry and wouldnt take up water as fast as i expected.. Once soaked run of checked a 3.2ec hours of flushing 2.8 ec and dropping so slowly.
i finally got it down to 2.0ec after about 400lts had gone through 10litres of coco, alot easier for me to buy canna and mix with perlite then do the coco prep of rhizo flush and folvic acid aver cheep coco taking two day to get it ready..
have grown in a recirc clay grow so know what you mean by ec/ ph increase as the water content decreases from the res. Whats happening is your plants are using more water than nute from the mix so ec rises and more so in warm climates .. I use to top up my recycle grow daily with plain tap water back to desired ec. This is the old way of doing it is better to have a second res of premix to top up and then dump your soution once every 5 to 7 days but means daily ec/ph checks to make sure everything runs smoothly.. run to waste doesnt have this problem nute isnt recycled and reused so ec stays the same but Ph can move over a week or two.
i expect the Ph rise so start PH at 5.8 after a few days it will be at 6ph where i want it in flower then may got to 6.2 by weeks end lowered with ph down and im ready for the last week from the res...
Another thing to watch is when mixing in the PH down i find it takes ages to mix in well, example i mix nute to 1.8 ec and PH to 5.8 1 hour later when i recheck ec is stable but sometimes Ph has crept upwards needing a fine ajustment. When you test the PH move the wand around deep and shallow if the reading changes the Down isnt mixed in well. Canna organic seems to mix in faster than the phosphric acid and i always use a mixing pump even if its the main pump with the hose pulled off, a seperate mixer on a timer is the go.
My local grow shop wont do bricks anymore burnt too many times now must have had 5 brands of bricks in recent years, problem he has is coco growing is and has been consistant with canna bcuzz and hygen coco the ec is always low and growers dont have too many problems growing run to wate or hand watered.
But with some bricks there not flushed at all, prior to compressing the cococ was stored outside and now full of grass seed. Even so called hydro compressed bricks have there problems not holding water well or too well and goes mushy and dark
brown incouraging bugs into the soil. Try a few cocos youll soon find one you like, coco with neem wont have ultra low ec but unsure if your ment to flush before use.
the last bricks i got where samples of a new coco from sri lanka basicly sold as the same as canna but compressed soaked not steamed. apon opening the panda film wrapper straight away there was a problem coco was bone dry and wouldnt take up water as fast as i expected.. Once soaked run of checked a 3.2ec hours of flushing 2.8 ec and dropping so slowly.
i finally got it down to 2.0ec after about 400lts had gone through 10litres of coco, alot easier for me to buy canna and mix with perlite then do the coco prep of rhizo flush and folvic acid aver cheep coco taking two day to get it ready..
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