Ultimate Foliar Feeding Recipe

[Row]

At least in my opinion it is, i do have some proof though.

I have been seeing quite a few threads started lately about foliar feeding and not many people seem to be very confident with using it, so im going to show you that it will not cause any problems and you CAN spray with the lights ON, so long as you use Dutch Masters Penetrator,

I see people talking about how the room has to be below 78, or the lights must just be off or just coming on and you have to have super low humidity etc etc,

The room you will see here that is being sprayed is not that great of a room, its a non sealed room with Co2, the temp when sprayed is 82-83, co2 level 850ppm and the humidity is 60%, perfect for this stage in growth. (1st day week 2)

The lights are raised but only because i had just pruned the hell out of the plants before the spray, also why they may look a little sparse, i left them up for easy spraying and pic taking, normally they are as low as they can be and its not a problem.

Iv been running this recipe for about a 6 months now and i would say iv definitely noticed an increase in yield, however this could be from a number of factors.

I have just recently been trying Dutch masters Liquid Light, I sprayed one side of the room with DM LL and the other half with my normal spray recipe, this is the first time iv either not sprayed a tall or sprayed the whole room with my ultimate spray recipe.

So the first chance iv had something to compare it to right there.

The left side of the room was sprayed with DM LL started at 1/2 worked upto full strength, i didnt see any ill effects from it and the plants did indead seem to like it. The right side of the room was sprayed with TUSR (The ultimate spray recipe)

However, after spending 6 hours pruning my initial feeling i had when just having a good look in the room were proven to me, the plants on the right side of the room, sprayed with TUSR (The ultimate spray recipe) were biger, thicker and just better!

I took some pics of the room to try and show the left side compared to the right side, and i think you can just about tell from a couple of the pics but it really dosnt do it justice, i took me pruning them for hours to really feel the difference, but i could see it just by looking down the room, the person helping my prune also agreed that he could see the left side didn't look quite as good.

Other info is that the strain is Purple Kush and there in soilless beds (promix and perlite)

Anyway on to the recipe

I foliar feed with 3 products, each once a week, one is a Fulvic acid (diamond nectar),

one a Kelp derived spray, micro nutrients and hormones (Ralphs Ultra lush)

http://www.ralphsessentialgrowth.com/ultra_lush.htm

One a micro nutrient/vitamin ( Spay N' Grow)

http://www.spray-n-growgardening.com/info/SNGDFU.pdf

All have 60 ml Dutch masters penetrator added, this product is amazing, and essential if you want to spray with the lights on, i have talked with a guy that does insanely well and he raves about it, the information about the product is awesome and imo it works... its not just a wetting agent.

I try to turn off all the osculating fans while i spray and leave them off for a few mins till the plants are dry, for my own benifit more than anything, easier to spray and it dosnt get all in the air for you to breath in etc.

Dont pH the spray!! it will say like pH 9 but dont worry just leave it alone....

Spray the plants till they are dripping.

Other than that just dont spray the bulb and you cant go wrong.

Monday Ralphs ultra Lush 1ml per liter until week 3 of flowering

Thursday Spray N' Grow 10ml per liter until week 2

Saturday Diamond Nectar 50ml per liter until week 4

Im not saying theat the DM LL didnt work but it seems to me that something about my TUSR worked way better, the next step is to try using LL with TUSR even though on the DM web site they say to only use LL.

Ok so on to the pics

First a couple of pics of the plants

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Now a few pics trying to show the right and left hand sides of the room, The left is DM LL and the right side TUSR, imo you can see that the right side is bigger,

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OK now some proof that you can spray with the lights on using penertrator,

plants soaked right down

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Now for the plants 5 minutes later, noticed they are already atleast 80% dry

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So as you can see they didnt get burned or stay wet for long enough to cause any kind of moisture related problems.

Ill post a few pics of the plants a couple of days after the spray if people would like, to show they didnt burn after a longer period.

So for that extra little somthing go spray your plants.

Let me know what you think

Row

 

[spyvsspy]

Damn, nice even canopy you have there, might have to give this a try

 

[PonicallyMade]

Looks great..

when you say you use those 3 products in your recipe once a week..are you talking individually on different days.. or all 3 products in a spray bottle?

Ever try foliar spraying with an alfalfa tea made from soaking alfalfa pellets. I heard it works great! but stinks bad if left around after being made up.

Liquid Light / Penetrator gold does what it says without a doubt.. but at $90 + tax (retail) for the pair...is it worth the cost and effort. I've never really foliar sprayed due to not wanting to raise my lights / get mist all over my glass.

Have a few friends that spray with BioBizz Fish Mix and rave about it..

You've got a perfect canopy in my book..keep up the good work.


peace
pm

 

[Cracky]

well that's a very good recipe, Row. During veg and early bloom I foliar feed almost every third day and spray with water every day I don't feed. I use a recipe of Techafloras Route 66 (actually it's a mild kelp based nute made for rooting) mixed with Technaflora's Thrive Alive B1 and a drop or two of organic dish soap. I spray earlier in the day as I don't want them going to sleep wet. I spray under the leaves as good as I can get it.

 

[Row]

Hey guys thx for the kind words,

Ponicallymade,

The LL didnt work as well as my USR and as far as i know it will cost you a hell of alot more, you do NEED the penertrator though. I mean to me you can clearly see in the 3rd and 5th pics the right hand side is bigger, and thats not the whole story, the plants were thicker and had a better structure. It could be that LL and TUSR will work even more wonders together, im going to try it me thinks!!

Each time i spray i use one of the products on the days listed upto the week of flowering stated, so monday is just 1ml ralphs 60 mil penertrator upto week 3, etc etc

Also you can spray with the lights low and on no need to raise them, just turn the fans off and use a good sprayer with a reaching end, i use the solo sprayers, i havent had any get on the bulbs and there hanging really close to the plants as there vertical bulbs in parabolic shades so the bulb end is way closer than ud have a horizontal bulb in a normal reflector.

Found a pic i took before they were pruned or sprayed with the lights at the height they would normally be when i spray

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Cracky

The penertrator means you dont need to spray anything but the tops of the leaves and that you can spray with the lights on, it actually draws the fert/additive into the leaf, i recommend everyone read the penertrator literature on the DM web site, i wouldnt bother floiar feeding with out it now iv seen the results it gives.

Spyvsspy

I hope you will try the recipe and that this post inspires more people to try foliar feeding, even if it not with TUSP, i do think every spray no matter what should have penertrator in it though (and no im not DM sales man, like i said LL wasnt as good as TUSR.

Row

 

[Row]

If anyone else out there has seen what foliar supplementing can do please share your experience.

I am always open to trying new products when it comes to folier feeding as its so easy to test it on a few plants and see how they compare to the rest.


Row

 

[its420]

I am fully with you Row.
I use Penetrator with all my foliars. I do something different everday of the week. I found I really enjoy foliar spraying, brings me closer to my girls, give me a god complex fix cause i get to make rain, lol.

I also use LL, but the reason you didnt see a difference(i think) is because you didnt keep with your great recipe as well. From what I understand Liquid Light's best function is speeding up the krebs cycle of the plant. Essentially giving you two days of growth in one(thats just for instance, not tech data, lol). Did you notice how much the leaves reached for light with the LL, amazing stuff really. No I dont work for them, they should give me free shit thou, mofo's charge asshole prices, some things really do work thou. But you SHOULD add it to your recipe for sure homey!!!

So, my regimen consists of (and is always changing)
Silicate (add first,or it will cause nute lock up...this is the only thing I will mix in with other stuff, and for our plants its very important); Seaweed-plants love it as foliar; compost teas(outside mostly cause i feed so much inside); fulvic; humic; VHO-very high output, an AN product, the only one of their ill use; and good ole H2O.

Sometimes I will spray plant amp, or something else if the plants need it. I also spray this stuff that raises the plants natrual defenses against pathogens every 21 days. In my mind, I dont feed thru foliar as much as add micros and feed on-plant microbes and such.

My plants really show a difference. The one time they showed a NEGATIVE difference was when I mixed up all my fav stuff together and sprayed a toxic rain on them. Stunted stuff for a week at least. Dont try that at home kids! Go easy on mix levels till you get to know your products, but dont be afraid to spray. Just have GREAT ventilation in your room at all times. You should anyway, right?

I stop all foliar after 3 weeks into flower. And I find I really miss it!!! I'm perpetual now so its kosher.

Happy gardening
PEACE
420
I have a whole thread finished with pics as proof of my success...fyi

 

[its420]

Are your plants a Bog strain?

 

[purpledomgoddes]

foliar feeding works for purple's imaginary garden @ ppm >250, ph 6.8-8.0.

no special foliar mix. just usual feeding program @ 1/4-1/5 of ppm, ph adjusted. (fnb, floralicious, kool bloom, h202).

use baby oil for wetting agent/surficant (couple drops per liter).

morning, mid-day, late night app. weekly.

separate bottle w/ only h202. bi-weekly.

 

[Row]

Hey its420

Awesome post dude, i to really enjoy the foliar feeding and like you say you really get close to your girls, i also like the reaction you see from them, in soil nothing you do happens fast but foliar you get that, they liked that feeling when you go back a day later.

And i couldnt agree more, the foliar, for me at least isnt about feeding them NPK but for feeding other little tit bits, like the fulvic or humics and growth enhancers.

I really like the idea of adding some silicate to my routine, its something iv been thinking about adding via the root zone as currently i dont think anything i use has silicate in it, foliar would be a great way to start and test with it and really see the difference.

What silicate product do you use and also do you add it to the other additive you are using that day for any reason ? and would spraying it by its self once a week be enough?

Do you think i could spray with just silica on one of my free spray days, and i AM going to add LL to to the recipe like you suggest, holly cow thatl be 6 days a week spraying .

No bog strain here, though id really like to try one all just BC purple kush clone

Hey Purpledomgoddes

Interesting that you have good results using you rootzone feeds just at a low ppm, id like to try that if i see some difficencys etc it would be a great way to test if the plants wanted more N, or P, or K etc by foliar feeding just a few plants with say some KB, or grow for N etc

In my opinion you will see even better results if you try using some additives that you dont put in the res/root zone on some days of the week but if it works keep on keeping on

Also you mix all that in one bottle? wont the h2o2 have a bad effect on the organic stuff in the floralicious? im not to up to speed with the florolicious, im just interested as your style of foliar is very different from mine but i like that you are getting away with adding some much in one bottle, a true quick hit of nutes for the plants.

I will say this though, add penertrator to that mix and ull be blown away, if you do add some penertrator let me know if you see a difference.

Row

 

[purpledomgoddes]

Hey Purpledomgoddes

Interesting that you have good results using you rootzone feeds just at a low ppm, id like to try that if i see some difficencys etc it would be a great way to test if the plants wanted more N, or P, or K etc by foliar feeding just a few plants with say some KB, or grow for N etc

In my opinion you will see even better results if you try using some additives that you dont put in the res/root zone on some days of the week but if it works keep on keeping on

Also you mix all that in one bottle? wont the h2o2 have a bad effect on the organic stuff in the floralicious? im not to up to speed with the florolicious, im just interested as your style of foliar is very different from mine but i like that you are getting away with adding some much in one bottle, a true quick hit of nutes for the plants.

I will say this though, add penertrator to that mix and ull be blown away, if you do add some penertrator let me know if you see a difference.

Row

foliar is very cumulative. very gardener specific too. ruthless w/ leaf -thinning too, in veg. find own cool zone w/ own garden.

n is assimilated quickly during foliar. other nutes can piggy-back on n. calcium not easily translocated. good for foliar.

can use kelp/additives/supplements/etc... just want kiss method. easiest for this imaginary garden is just water down feeding regime, spray, over. less nutes, the better. foliar w/ molasses too, esp in late bloom; for flavor - along w/ floralicious - for flavor enhancement.

h202 is separate container. general disinfectant/cleaner/pest killer+deterrent.

"organic stuff in floralicious"? plants only sense the world of nutes through interpreting the chemical compunds as ions. ions are positively charged (cations), or negatively charged (anions). organic chemistry simply means the compound contains carbon. but to answer the question, no h202 wont necessarily disrupt the nutrient mix. it supplies oxygen molecule on valence shell that easily breaks free. oxygen is key factor in respiration. plants cant tell whether input charge derived from 'organic', or 'chemical' fertilizer. they just want steady supply of charges in comfort-zone ph. domain and range.

have tried many supplements, etc. proper, timely application, coupled w/ knowing why/how plants react to certain electro-chem input+environmental shifts is greater consideration than newest supp. couple drops of baby oil, or detergent works for surfacant. all nutes needed in flora nova+molasses.

hope this helps. enjoy your garden!

 

[purpledomgoddes]

another interesting thread on foliar feeding.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=117375

enjoy your garden!

 

[Row]

Yar thx dude, you posted some great info there.

I posted in that one too, and it is what inspired me to make this thread,

It didnt seem like people were very confiedent with idea of foliar feeding in that thread, so i wanted to show everyone that you can have great results, and quash some myths about foliar feeding with pics to prove it.

Like you CAN spray with the lights on when using DM penertrator, the temp in the room can be 82-83,the plants dry so fast there is no moisture issues, (dont spray afer week 4 ofc)

And that the recipe i used showed a significant improvement in plants compared to another supposed awesome foliar feed, though like its420 said, i need to use the LL as well as my recipe. But can you imagine how much of an improvement you would have been able to see compared to plants that were sprayed with nothing? i would do a control but i dont want half a room to be so far behind.

Row

 

[pineappaloupe]

I need some clarification on this statement:
"foliar w/ molasses too, esp in late bloom; for flavor - along w/ floralicious - for flavor enhancement. "
I hope this doesn't mean the flavor comes from the contact of the solution on the plant... or are you saying it enhances the plants natural flavor?

Anyway, I have recently been going back to more foliar feeding, mostly to correct the first signs of nutrient deficiencies, and in my mother plants and a few I have been forced to veg root bound for too long.

I' never foliar once buds begin to form multiple calyx clusters (2-3week depending on strain). No particular reason for this, it just doesnt seem like a great idea to cover flowers in liquid, if anyone knows otherwise let me know.

Recently I have been using only refined ferts for nutrients. I think that pure phosphate, nitrate/trite etc will be most useful for the plant. After all that is what plants uptake at the roots regardless of the source. I use Natures Nectar (OMRI) N, and P. A touch of dish soap and thats it. If i were going to add sugars, i might go for refined sugars over molasses.
Does this make sense to anyone else?

 

[purpledomgoddes]

I need some clarification on this statement:
"foliar w/ molasses too, esp in late bloom; for flavor - along w/ floralicious - for flavor enhancement. "
I hope this doesn't mean the flavor comes from the contact of the solution on the plant... or are you saying it enhances the plants natural flavor?

Anyway, I have recently been going back to more foliar feeding, mostly to correct the first signs of nutrient deficiencies, and in my mother plants and a few I have been forced to veg root bound for too long.

I' never foliar once buds begin to form multiple calyx clusters (2-3week depending on strain). No particular reason for this, it just doesnt seem like a great idea to cover flowers in liquid, if anyone knows otherwise let me know.

Recently I have been using only refined ferts for nutrients. I think that pure phosphate, nitrate/trite etc will be most useful for the plant. After all that is what plants uptake at the roots regardless of the source. I use Natures Nectar (OMRI) N, and P. A touch of dish soap and thats it. If i were going to add sugars, i might go for refined sugars over molasses.
Does this make sense to anyone else?

floralicious is made primarily for flavor enhancement, beleive. molasses just over source of calcium+potassium.
not trying to make plant taste this way or that. just bring out their genetic best.
flushed for 10-14 days w/ h202, so no nutes remain. seeking white ash...

as for foliar after fruit onset... only cease foliar when start to flush. even then, spray down w/ foliar of h202. then 7 days of water w/ h202, then 4 days of nothing to dry it all out.
lots of air flow. condensation dissipates in less than 1 minute. even if sprayed entire 1 liter bottle on plants, not 1 drop of water on leaves in 1-2 minutes. this is only concern for foliar: condensation. if ppms >250/ph 6.8-7.5, can foliar as much as want.
@ least twice a week during entire flower. 1 bottle watered down nutes that roots got fed; 1 bottle h202+water.

purpose of floralicious+molasses is to supply building blocks to convert simple sugars into energy; though type of sugars supplied may affect taste - as soda w/ real sugar tastes different than soda w/ high fructose corn syrup.

as for omri vs. chem, etc. the plant can only sense the charge of the molecule it assimilates. either cation or anion; doesnt care if organic/non-organic.

hope this helps. enjoy your garden!

 

[FirstTimer76]

I hit my seedlings & early vegging plants with 1/8tsp Alaskan Fish Emulsion & 1tsp Liquid Karma per 32oz bottle of bubbled water on days I don't feed. Works great & they love it. I find that the Fish Emulsion helps for that extra kick of N without burning them. Especially when they start to show me that they are hunger by yellowing.

 

[Row]

Hey guys

A few pics of what the room looks like at day 1 of week 6

Some really nice buds, and you can really see that the right side sprayed with TUSR is way better, i didnt get that many shots of the other side , i was to busy snapping the sweater buds, but there is a shot of the two sides together so you can see the left side sprayed with LL just never cught up or did as well.

I am using two different recipes though, the left side (LL side) a modified lucus formula,

0,8,16, 1ml Bigbud till week 6, 4ml Diamond Necter, calmag, Pro silicate, Carbo load, Dry Kool Bloom week 6 - 8

The right side (USR side) a recipe i made based on the GH Drain to waste program,

Uses, G,M,B Liquid Kool Bloom, Floralicious Bloom, Diamond Necter, Cla mag, Pro silicate, Carbo load, Dry kool bloom (at the end)

so this could be a also be a factor

Theres a bad thrip problem there so leaves look a bit scankey etc, but over all coming along quite nicely.

Room is not sealed and uses a little co2 but not much as its to hard to keep it in, about 600ppm.

OK, Pics

Room pic

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Random bud shots, i think all from the right USR side, as they were the more dank

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Let me know what you think

Row

 

[Row]

no one thinks they can see the difference? or these plants arnt that great or something?

I was under the impression that more trial and proof of products and theories is what was needed, but there dosnt seem to be an over whelming response to my findings and effort....

Row

 

[smurfin'herb]

Beneficials + maxicrop seaweed/kelp + humic (h-1) and fulvic acid (f-2) + DM penetrator gold and hygrozyme all in one @ 2x per week = healthy plants for me, although i have been looking for a good source of chelated amino acids to add if anyone can reccomend some. If I wanna add real food then i just follow the foliar instructions on my humbolt master A and B jugs. Yes thats right, there is a foliar reccomendation on the Master A and B! If i dont have anything else, i use foliar with liquid karma and it works dandy!

 

[smokeetreatz]

Row- hey man respect, love experimentation! right side appears maybe little larger, hard to see from photos. Foliar is essential for top quality, so good for quick nut uptake and fixing minor issues. I use a 3 day compost tea, 4oz. per gallon with EJ microblast 1tsp per gal, with drdorights pest and powdery mildew control, 2-3 oz per gall, with amazing results.

Chem dog and snowdog around 40 days, foliar 1-2 x a week. Helps with pests/powdery mildew, micro/secondaries,huge amounts beneficial living organisms (c. tea), but it CANNOT be sprayed with lights on. heard good things about LL and penetrator, but never tried them.