Two lamps, one timer ,,,, ?

[indalo]

Hi all. Got a 600 w running a.t.m. but will be adding a 1000 watt soon. Can I run both on the same timer, or do the 1000 watt require a special timer ?

 

[exploziv]

you need to read how much power can you draw through your timer to know that. look for Amp rating, or max Watts on the timer or post the model here. also, are u on 110 or 220V?
But, if it's not a heavy duty timer I would recommend getting a good one that could run both, or at least a second one for the 1000w.

 

[BudToker]

I will guess that is probably too much power for you so to err on the side of caution I will say, no use a second timer or get a lighting controller to fire the lights.

 

[indalo]

you need to read how much power can you draw through your timer to know that. look for Amp rating, or max Watts on the timer or post the model here. also, are u on 110 or 220V?
ter evBut, if it's not a heavy duty timer I would recommend getting a good one that could run both, or at least a second one for the 1000w.

Thanks for that. Very helpful. My system was installed by an el. engineer itself is a of mine 11 yrs ago and has been working perfect ever since. The contactor is a Telemecanique, GC 4040 M 5 It says on it I th 40 A. The timer itself is a GRASSLIN, but can't see any amp. rating on it.

 

[kountdown]

Most of my double outlet timers handle 15 amps. If you're running 1600 watts at 110 volts you're looking at 14.5 amps. That would be too much for the timer and be a fire hazard. If you're at 1600w at 220v its 7.2a and would be fine. It all depends on your setup.

 

[exploziv]

If the lamp is wired into the contactor, then the amp rating of the timer doesn't matter. (contactor coil takes little current)
You are safe to put much more than 1600w on that contactor and it will still be safe.
40 amp @ 220V is 8800W, @ 110V is 4400W, to be safe you can go 75% of the rating with no problems, that means at least 3000W for 110V and double if 220V.
This is if the devices are plugged in straight in the contactor. If you have some kind of extension cord plugged into the contactor and you run the lights from that, you need to check the rating of that too. Best option is to run the lights straight from the contactor.

 

[Jhhnn]

Thanks for that. Very helpful. My system was installed by an el. engineer itself is a of mine 11 yrs ago and has been working perfect ever since. The contactor is a Telemecanique, GC 4040 M 5 It says on it I th 40 A. The timer itself is a GRASSLIN, but can't see any amp. rating on it.

With that contactor, you're running 240v, correct? The datasheet says it has a 230v coil.

http://www.radiolocman.com/datasheet/data.html?di=76303

That being the case, you're well into the safety range, which is where you want to be. Too bad that more people don't have that kind of installation.

It's nice to read that grasslin timers last. I opted for an analog model with my redo- I don't need to re-read poorly translated instructions to change the light cycle, and I can't lose any stupid little tripper/flippers, either.

As exploziv points out, the timer just needs to be able to handle the contactor coil, and yours clearly does, given that it's worked for 11 years.

 

[indalo]

Thanks a lot to all of you. The info. u can get in here is just unbelievable. Well, a good few pennies saved, and a lot of hassle avoided thanks to you good pot heads,,, lol Can I use 2.5 mm cable , or is that over kill ? It's just that i got miles of it. Or will 1.5 mm do ? I'm on 220 v

 

[exploziv]

always 2.5 mm3 cable for sockets and high power appliances. 1.5 mm3 cable is rated for 10 amps @ 220V and generally used for home lighting circuits. 2.5 mm3 is rated 16 amps @ 220V.

 

[indalo]

Cheers for that Exploziv, glad I asked,, lol

 

[indalo]

Hmm, back again. Had a good look at my set up today, and noticed my mate used 1.5 mm2 cable between contactor and timer. Should I change them to 2.5 mm2 ?

 

[exploziv]

No. The contactor coil takes under 5 watts of power. It's ok.

 

[indalo]

Thanks again for a swift answer. Cool