Ok so I want to use backdraft dampers to control my temps. All the dampers I can find are 24v. How do I connect it to my power that is 120v? I was planning on using these on my fan/ filter. One will open to the room, one will open to the exhaust. They will be opposite of each other. I think I need a transformer to drop the voltage, but how to accomplish this is a mystery to me.
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Trying to use motorized backdraft dampers
- Thread starter packerfan79
- Start date
M
moose eater
I believe you'd use a low-voltage relay, but why go motorized?
You are talking about your intake ventilation, right?
On my heat recovery ventilator, as well as my kitchen range hood, I've used light-weight-spring-loaded 'butterfly dampers'; they come with rubber gaskets surrounding the 'flaps' that form the damper halves, and fit neatly into what ever ducting you're using; preferably rigid ducting..
The negative pressure from your exhaust automatically pulls open the dampers if the pressure is sufficient.
The damper has a fairly thin pin that is typically placed in a vertical position, with a spring-tensioned half-circle damper to either side, that, when closed, with relatively neutral pressure, seats against the rubber gasket that surrounds the circumference of the damper.
It may well be that such a damper would work for you, and save you greater electricity use, as well as the headache of wiring, acquiring a relay, etc.
All of that depends in part on the air-tightness of your grow area, as to whether it can establish sufficient negative pressure when exhausting, to open the dampers.
Just a thought or three.
You are talking about your intake ventilation, right?
On my heat recovery ventilator, as well as my kitchen range hood, I've used light-weight-spring-loaded 'butterfly dampers'; they come with rubber gaskets surrounding the 'flaps' that form the damper halves, and fit neatly into what ever ducting you're using; preferably rigid ducting..
The negative pressure from your exhaust automatically pulls open the dampers if the pressure is sufficient.
The damper has a fairly thin pin that is typically placed in a vertical position, with a spring-tensioned half-circle damper to either side, that, when closed, with relatively neutral pressure, seats against the rubber gasket that surrounds the circumference of the damper.
It may well be that such a damper would work for you, and save you greater electricity use, as well as the headache of wiring, acquiring a relay, etc.
All of that depends in part on the air-tightness of your grow area, as to whether it can establish sufficient negative pressure when exhausting, to open the dampers.
Just a thought or three.
No I need them for my exhaust, that way when it gets to cold I can,shut the exhaust to only recirculate and scrub the air. Other wise I would have to shut the filter/fan off, then smell will be a problem.
Usually the damper piggy backs the fan circuit. The fan circuit is controlled by a thermostat.
If your damper motor is 24V then you need a low to high voltage relay.
The 24V transformer is always hot(live). When the fan circuit kicks on the relay flips and the 24V circuit closes so damper motor runs.
How to you intend to control the dampers? Thermostat?
If your damper motor is 24V then you need a low to high voltage relay.
The 24V transformer is always hot(live). When the fan circuit kicks on the relay flips and the 24V circuit closes so damper motor runs.
How to you intend to control the dampers? Thermostat?
I have a temp controller I was going to use if I could find a 120v motorized backdraft, but so far I can't find one. The controller has different adjustments for night and day temps.
I may just add another fan filter to scrub when the exhaust filter/fan is off. It gets pretty cold here last winter I ran the filter constantly and the night temps were pretty low like upper 40s. The cold stunted growth, what should have been a 10 week flower wound up being a 12 week flower. Quality was good but not on par with my normal runs.
You can find a low voltage relay with a 120 coil voltage. The 120v controls whether the contact is open or closed. But you will need to have a 120- 24v transformer to step down to feed the 24v damper. This 120v source will have to be separate from the 120 coil voltage
http://www.ductanddampers.com/produ...otorized-Damper-ADJUSTABLE-Stops-SKU2446.html
Your looking at $125 for an 8" damper+... less parts with the 110v motor though.
Your looking at $125 for an 8" damper+... less parts with the 110v motor though.
AvidLerner
Member
You need a 24v temp controller available on ebay for about $20
Suncourt electric dampers come with a transformer, so you should not need to buy them separately. Keep your receipts, as they do come with a 3 year warranty and all the ones I used worked great....for about 2 years. The heavy duty transformer and the actuator are the two components that burned up constantly in my garden.
Like this one on Amazon...https://www.amazon.com/Suncourt-ZC106-Automated-Damper-Normally/dp/B0015S9GWE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506342567&sr=8-2&keywords=electric+damper
So, for damper placement--I would try to locate it so it won't be a PIA to replace it. And that transformer will get hot, too hot to touch, so find a good spot for it.
Like this one on Amazon...https://www.amazon.com/Suncourt-ZC106-Automated-Damper-Normally/dp/B0015S9GWE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506342567&sr=8-2&keywords=electric+damper
So, for damper placement--I would try to locate it so it won't be a PIA to replace it. And that transformer will get hot, too hot to touch, so find a good spot for it.
Stinkhorn123
Active member
Doc when I hear "gets hot and burned up" it concerns me. Obviously you use these so there safe if used correctly?
Oh they're safe, just figure 2-3 year life (hence save the receipt comment). When I say burn up, perhaps the word "seized up" might be more accurate for the actuator. No fire, it just stopped working...and yes those transformers do get hot, not "combustion" hot but too hot to touch.
Would I use them again, yes. Nothing beats a mechanical damper better than Suncourts electric dampers. I just think they were not designed to be on 12 hours a day, 7 days a week.
BTW the difference between the damper sold as "normally closed" and "normally open" is the position of the flap (which can be changed easily)...mechanically, they are identical; no reason to pay more for one than the other.
Ok here is the idea. You need a high low Thermostat or controller.
But here is how the 24V and 110V circuits combine. 110V feeds the transformer. The rest is 24V.
But here is how the 24V and 110V circuits combine. 110V feeds the transformer. The rest is 24V.
Stinkhorn123
Active member
Thanks Doc, And thank you Packerfan perfect timing for this thread!
Same principle I think
Probably best to use a relay with a 24 VDC coil and 120 VAC contacts to turn on/off the electric damper transformer. Wanna control a fan too? Then SPDT relay will work perfectly...single relay that can turn off/on two appliances.
The Suncourt transformer is 120 VAC/24 VAC stepdown type, so the 120 volt side should be controlled by the relay...not the 24 volt side (no need to have the Suncourt transformer on 24/7...besides, not too sure if the thermostat will work using 24 volts AC instead of DC).
The Suncourt transformer is 120 VAC/24 VAC stepdown type, so the 120 volt side should be controlled by the relay...not the 24 volt side (no need to have the Suncourt transformer on 24/7...besides, not too sure if the thermostat will work using 24 volts AC instead of DC).
It's going to be cheaper and easier to add a second filter to run when I have the exhaust off. Since I already have a 6 in blower laying around gathering dust
M
moose eater
I've been a fan of 'internal loops' where air scrubbing and air exchanging are concerned. No direct/ducted links to the outside from 'the room,' but rather a fresh air intake to an indoor area provided by another intake or exchange system bringing air in nearby the intake for the otherwise-relatively-sealed room, and the room, after being swept diagonally and high-to-low, by the air flow briefly described above, exhausting scrubbed air into an interior area, near an exhaust through a second system back through an air/heat exchanger, -then- to the outdoors.
As long as you stay on top of the effective life-span of the carbon filters, you should be good. Though my design, minimally described above, may not be the same as (or anything like) yours.
As long as you stay on top of the effective life-span of the carbon filters, you should be good. Though my design, minimally described above, may not be the same as (or anything like) yours.
dont buy no name shit actuators.
get something on ebay with a johnson controls actuator or belimo actuator. you want an actuator thats light commercial rated with linkage parts kits available.
ideally you would get a gasketed damper, or a damper with gasketed seats... but the leakage through a low static system with a non gasketed damper is minuscule, just make sure your dampers are actually concentric...
i recently took delivery of a set of manual dampers and 2 of them had shit damper placement that i did not catch when i picked them up from the shop.
get something on ebay with a johnson controls actuator or belimo actuator. you want an actuator thats light commercial rated with linkage parts kits available.
ideally you would get a gasketed damper, or a damper with gasketed seats... but the leakage through a low static system with a non gasketed damper is minuscule, just make sure your dampers are actually concentric...
i recently took delivery of a set of manual dampers and 2 of them had shit damper placement that i did not catch when i picked them up from the shop.
