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Triple deck cab questions

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eminiplayer

Hey all,

I'm just about to start building my triple deck cabinet and wondered if anyone could offer some advice on spacing out the shelves, please.

I have 76.7" (195cm) of vertical height and want to have two flowering areas and one veg area. I figured about 15.7" (40cm) of height for the veg area and 30.5" (77.5cm) for the two flowering cabs. I plan to flower 1 plant per cabinet, using coco, and supercropping and LST'ing just like blynx does in his grows (thank you for inspiring me). How do these dimensions sound? Should I sacrifice some height in one area to increase it in another?

I have a 160cfm S&P silent 4" inline fan and plan to run a duct out of the top of the wardrobe into the roof space and then scrub it before pumping it back into another wardrobe at the other side of the same room.

I question how big the passive intakes at the base of the cab should be? Would one 4" intake be appropriate? Any advice would be much appreciated, this is going to be my first ever grow.

I have a couple of Quantum Boards I'll use for lighting... only have 2 at the moment, so it'll be one per cab, each capable of 110w+ on a HLG-120H-C1050A each. So that's 40w/sqft of decent LED light on tap if I need it. I'd like to upgrade to 2 Quantum Boards per flowering cab (as per the original build) eventually.

For the veg cab I'm going to build a Bridgelux EB series LED light using 4 x 560mm strips on a 700ma driver, so 61w over 2.75 sqft will be 22w/sqft of high efficiency light. Does this sound like it will be enough, or should I run more strips?

That's all I can think of right now, but if anyone could contribute to the design of this cab, I'd be much appreciative.

Thanks again to blynx for inspiring this grow.

Here's the cab.

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picture.php
 
M

Mr. Sparkle

sounds good for spacing, passive intake you will want at least two times the area as the outtake, as for the veg chamber just go with screw in led bulbs, quick and easy, but if not sounds like your golden anyways. Just make some light traps between the two chambers, or seprate them with their own air ducting, and figure out what you want to run at the bottom and top.

Flower on the bottom with veg above, will give an automatic bottom root zone warming due to the hot air rising, and causing the wooden shelf to be warmer, which is good for cloning, where as the other way your flower chamber will just be a tad warmer due to the veg chambers heat production.

So it all depends on your local environment, if you in a hot environment might want the veg on the bottom, cooler environment maybe want it above, but with leds now aday we have alot less to worry about as far as heat goes.
 
E

eminiplayer

Hey Mr Sparkle,

Thanks for the tips... I will run 2 x 4" intake and through the cab, with the 4" exhaust out the top.

I must say I really enjoy your grow log and plan to start one when my grow commences.

Cheers,

emini
 
E

eminiplayer

One more question if anyone could offer advice...

I'm planning to order a 74.8" (190cm) x 23.6" (60cm) piece of 0.62" (16mm) melamine to mount as a door to the whole cab. Since I'm not particularly handy, I don't want to install hinges and was trying to think of the easiest way to mount this panel so that I can just lift it on/off. I was thinking of using magnets?
 

ice-cream

Member
explore having two doors for those times where the flower chamber cant be open
as for hinge-less mounts - a slot for the door to sit in and add a latch something from the childproof type of thing might work ???
 
E

eminiplayer

ice-cream : I'd like to have separate doors for each chamber, but I'm really useless at this sort of thing, so I think one panel will make it easier. I like your idea, though, let the bottom of the panel sit in some kind of channel I could make out of wood, and then a few catches at the top. I was thinking something like this ---> https://goo.gl/CHZ2bs
 
E

eminiplayer

I think I found what I'm going to use to mount the door panel, "Heavy Duty Magnetic Cupboard Door Catch Strong" on ebay ----> https://goo.gl/3E8Y1a

I figure if I put one in each corner to begin with and just add more if the force isn't enough to hold it firm. Anyone think this would work?

emini
 

ReikoX

Knight of the BlackSvn
It might work. Hinges aren't that difficult, just a few screws, and would make life easier.
 
E

eminiplayer

Yeah, it'd be nice to have a door that just swings open, rather than lifting it off fully... I mean, I've never even used a drill before, so this is all new to me, worried about getting it all lined up correctly... ordering the door tomorrow!
 
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