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Transplanting auto
- Thread starter jay-toker
- Start date
blackosprey
Member
good info, jay.
Tiered transplants also work very well. Basically, you cut the bottom two-three inches off the bottom of your original seedling pot (best using a solo cup), dig hole in your transplant pot to accommodate this cut away section, and drop in your transplant, keeping the top half of the party cup intact. If done right, you don't disturb the dirt or roots. My first attempt, however, when I cut the section off the cup, I also cut the roots a bit.
So, I found a better method. This is a "cup in a cup" process. when you make your seedling medium, go ahead and cut the bottom 2-3 inches off one cup, put it into another whole cup, and fill with medium and plant. When it is time for transplant, remove the outer cup and follow the above steps.
I wanted to take this a step further with experimentation, so I am currently trying a "pre-tiered" method. I went ahead and set up my final pot with normal soil mixture, but added a tiered cup on top with my base seedling mix, and direct planted into the tier. This gave the seedlings time to grow without risk of nutrient stunting (a problem with autos). I have three plants in at 36 days using this method, and can say that I am happy with the results so far.
I work in a micro rubbermaid set up, so my max pot size is 1 gallon in order to fit 6-8 plants comfortably. By using a tiered method, I was able to increase the overall height of the pot from 7 inches, to 10 inches. Anyone familiar with autos knows that the taproot depth is key in success, so this really helped me to achieve one of my goals.
I recently ordered 2 gallon grow bags that have comparable dimensions to my 1 gallon tiered pots as far as base and height dimensions, so those will be up next for experimentation.
Lol, did I mention that I like to experiment?
Anyhow, once again, great info Jay.
Tiered transplants also work very well. Basically, you cut the bottom two-three inches off the bottom of your original seedling pot (best using a solo cup), dig hole in your transplant pot to accommodate this cut away section, and drop in your transplant, keeping the top half of the party cup intact. If done right, you don't disturb the dirt or roots. My first attempt, however, when I cut the section off the cup, I also cut the roots a bit.
So, I found a better method. This is a "cup in a cup" process. when you make your seedling medium, go ahead and cut the bottom 2-3 inches off one cup, put it into another whole cup, and fill with medium and plant. When it is time for transplant, remove the outer cup and follow the above steps.
I wanted to take this a step further with experimentation, so I am currently trying a "pre-tiered" method. I went ahead and set up my final pot with normal soil mixture, but added a tiered cup on top with my base seedling mix, and direct planted into the tier. This gave the seedlings time to grow without risk of nutrient stunting (a problem with autos). I have three plants in at 36 days using this method, and can say that I am happy with the results so far.
I work in a micro rubbermaid set up, so my max pot size is 1 gallon in order to fit 6-8 plants comfortably. By using a tiered method, I was able to increase the overall height of the pot from 7 inches, to 10 inches. Anyone familiar with autos knows that the taproot depth is key in success, so this really helped me to achieve one of my goals.
I recently ordered 2 gallon grow bags that have comparable dimensions to my 1 gallon tiered pots as far as base and height dimensions, so those will be up next for experimentation.
Lol, did I mention that I like to experiment?
Anyhow, once again, great info Jay.
I think the key to this is knowing when the strain you are growing will sex.
If it's very early, 10-15 days from sprout, you are on the ball with watering, and then transplant as soon as you can tell the sex, Then the plants can still do very well.
If you are quick and gentle with the transplant, then I notice no stress, and they take to the new pot and extra volume like ducks to water.
If you leave an AF in a small pot too long, and it gets root bound then this stress is amplified over what a photo strain would feel.
If you know the strain you are growing takes more in the region of 3 weeks to show sex, then give it a larger pot to suit, again be on your toes with them, and the transition can be pretty painless.
If you are growing feminised seeds, then give them as much soil as you can afford, and water carefully until they get established.
If it's very early, 10-15 days from sprout, you are on the ball with watering, and then transplant as soon as you can tell the sex, Then the plants can still do very well.
If you are quick and gentle with the transplant, then I notice no stress, and they take to the new pot and extra volume like ducks to water.
If you leave an AF in a small pot too long, and it gets root bound then this stress is amplified over what a photo strain would feel.
If you know the strain you are growing takes more in the region of 3 weeks to show sex, then give it a larger pot to suit, again be on your toes with them, and the transition can be pretty painless.
If you are growing feminised seeds, then give them as much soil as you can afford, and water carefully until they get established.
C
canon
Good point!
I like to start in 2 qt. pots, then up-pot to 5 gal. at 2 weeks. Works for me anyways.
If I start in 1 qt, I'll up-pot in 7-9 days with satisfaction.
I like to start in 2 qt. pots, then up-pot to 5 gal. at 2 weeks. Works for me anyways.
If I start in 1 qt, I'll up-pot in 7-9 days with satisfaction.
B
bajangreen
blackosprey
Member
Honestly, I can't say how well this would work. I would guess it would work as long as you don't affect the tap root growth. Sounds like ANOTHER experiment to try....
B
bajangreen
Sorry for the misunderstanding but i meant drilling the holes in the first cup before planting then doing the double cup method.
This way you just pull off the second cup and plant the first cup (net pot) into the bigger pot.
Hope you understand me now.
This way you just pull off the second cup and plant the first cup (net pot) into the bigger pot.
Hope you understand me now.
blackosprey
Member
yeah, you have to drill holes in the outer cup to allow for drainage. I got you now.
Lavender Kush
New member
I use rock wool starter cubes and then just transplant the seedling still in the rock wool cube in to my non-soil medium 2 or 3 gallon container. The mortality rate has been next to zero and the plants take off like a rocket!
Lavender Kush
New member
Yes, I do it all the time. Just make sure you plant the entire rockwool cube under your growing medium- make sure it is completely covered.
