Total Disease Prevention - Now Possible?

[stopthemadness]

Most diseases that affect grows have the added risk of recurring after you resolve them initially. In the case of pythium, for example, the spores remain even after the root rot has been treated. The spores can stick to leaves and even infect clones taken from a plant that carries spores. In the case of spider mites, the females can lay dormant in cracks and crevices and then re-emerge to lay eggs. A lot of the blights and pests we encounter also have a strong propensity to re-infect. Unfortunately, most patients cannot complete the necessary sanitization of EVERYTHING until they have harvested and are between cycles. As a result, the risk of re-infection is high.

I believe I have stumbled across the perfect product to eliminate and prevent reinfection. I was thinking how great it would be if hydrogen peroxide were available in a fogger. Think about it, you could fog your whole room and basically sanitize everything. The fog would get into all those crevices that a spray cannot reach. How simple to just set it off and come back in an hour to a sanitary room. So I started doing research to see if any such thing exists. While I found no H2O2 bombs, I did find this:

http://www.saniguard.com/whysg.html

It is a sanitizing fogger that kills basically all spores, fungi, bacteria, etc and is food and human safe. I have tried these twice now and they seem to kick ass. For me they erradicated some mites and powdery mildew. Now I set one off between cycles and anytime an infection emerges during a cycle (like a spider mite breakout). At a price of about $10 / fogger these are an excellent preventative measure.

Has anyone else used these? Would like to know if these work as well for others as they have for me.

 

[stopthemadness]

More info about the foggers

More info about the foggers

For any who are interested, this from the manufacturer:

"Sanitize An Entire Room in 15 Minutes!
The World’s first patented and extensively tested product that enables you to sanitize entire rooms in just minutes with the same kill-on-contact power of the conventional SaniGuard® sprays.

SaniGuard® Total Release Fogger is the world’s first DRY-ON-CONTACT Sanitizing Fogger & Deodorizer. SaniGuard sanitizing products are EPA registered, patented, and have been proven to kill 99.99% of Avian Flu and 39 other various germs, bacteria, fungus, and viruses in mere seconds; including: MRSA, Ringworm, HIV, E-Coli, Salmonella, and Herpes. Safe for food contact and other non-porous surfaces including fabrics and electronics!

Safe for ALL surfaces. Helps stop the transmission of germs in high traffic areas such as lobbies, call centers, waiting rooms, offices, classrooms, patient care facilities, cruise ships, dining areas, etc. Lower employee sick leave, stop the spread of germs in educational facilities, eliminate the threat of illness while traveling.
(One 8oz fogger treats up to 625 sq. ft.; the 3oz fogger treats up to 155 sq. ft. both have a 24-month shelf life.)"

 

[Guest]

This will get rid of mites, gnats, etc?? How successful have your trials been. Does it instantly wipe them all out or what? This has the potential to be something great!!!!!!

 

[stopthemadness]

That's what I thought when I found the stuff. For mites I had a severe infection (webbing) in early flowering. I wanted to use something that would not negatively affect the bud. Since it was still early in flowering, I chose Floramite, which is AMAZING at killing mites and their eggs and lasts about 21 days before becoming harmless. All signs of mites were gone in 1 day. 21 days later, I used the fogger to make sure there would be no recurrence, and there was not. So for mites I must admit my experience using the foggers is limited and I cannot say definitiely that they worked. I am hoping through this thread that someone with that experience will give us some input.

Where it really kicked ass though is with pythium / root rot. I had an aero system infected and 1-2 plants were suddenly wilting and dying per day. The clones I tried to take soon showed signs of infection and died as well. If you have ever had pythium you know it is nearly impossible to get rid of. After flushing with H2O2 and using hydroguard in the refilled res, a fogger was set off in the grow room. Clones were taken the next day and are still alive today as mothers! Again, not really a scientific study, but my results seem to suggest that the fogger was effective in killing the active spores on the foliage of the plant.

I have never tried it for gnats, but imagine it would work well there as well.


-stopthemadness

 

[Guest]

Ahh....I was hoping it would have the effect that killing them with co2 does. I'm going to have to get some floramite.

 

[Guest]

uh oh.......floramite lasts a lot longer than 21 days!!! It says 6 months! It also says use no more than 16oz PER ACRE!! Serious stuff that is:

http://www.cdms.net/ldat/ld2RT005.pdf

....and it's $300/quart!!

Wow!

 

[Guest]

hint hint* willow water

 

[stopthemadness]

Yeah, floramite is pricey, but it works better than anything I've seen. It is only active for 21 days and not 6 months though. Here is the manufacturer's writeup:

"Floramite SC is a selective miticide that provides outstanding control of a variety of mite pests on greenhouse, shadehouse, nursery, field, landscape and interiorscape grown ornamentals. Floramite provides quick knockdown through contact activity and long lasting residual control of more than 21 days. Because of its unique mode of action and selective nature, Floramite is easy on predacious mites and beneficial insects, making it ideal for resistance management programs. Floramite controls Two-spotted mite, Pacific mites, Strawberry mites, European Mites, Cyclamen Mites, Citrus Red mites, Southern red mites and Spruce spider mites."

Willow water...for mites?! I have seen it used to promote rooting, but never to kill mites. Ruby - Can you give us a bit more on this?

 

[sonoma]

It's claiming to be a miracle cure.....is it really?

 

[Guest]

I guess I should have quoted it. You can only make 2 applications per crop, per year, and only up to 16oz per acre, meaning it can only be used every six months.

 

[stopthemadness]

Just good prevention

Just good prevention

I do not think anyone claims to have a miracle cure. I am suggesting the foggers may be a good way to sanitize and kill fungus, mildew, mold and any other blight-type affliction. They also seem to hold promise in generally preventing re-infection. From the underwhelming response to this thread, it appears not a lot of people have tried the foggers. I will try to get some controlled testing going to validate or invalidate the suggestions above.


-stopthemadness

 

[Guest]

Willow water...for mites?! I have seen it used to promote rooting, but never to kill mites. Ruby - Can you give us a bit more on this?

sorry bout that bro..i just read the title of the thread which states Disease Prevention..then i read a few lines of your first post and u were saying something about a fogger to kill spores of mold..i had no clue this thread contained dual topics..silly me..

 

[Verite]

The problem with 'fogging' H2O2 is that it decomposes rapidly when it comes into contact with oxygen. That and its also a highly corrosive oxidizer. Ph is in the mid 11's. Not something you would want too much around.

Then again you might want to reconsider anything you are closely changing its molecular structure from a solid to a close gas form when its base element is something like hydrogen.

... The liberation of oxygen and energy in the decomposition has dangerous side effects. Spilling high concentration peroxide on a flammable substance can cause an immediate fire, which is further fueled by the oxygen released by the decomposing hydrogen peroxide...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_peroxide#Decomposition

 

[bartender187]

I would not use that product with flowering plants... then imo... I dont spray anytnin on my gals when they are flowerin. If you have mites and you are that far into flowerin you, imo, can either tuff it out and win the battle after the harvest or cut your losses now and eradicate em.

as for rootrot.... sanitize with h202 rinse, keeping rez temps down, inceasing oxygen and introducing beneficials e.g. EA/EN worked for me.

 

[Guest]

The problem with 'fogging' H2O2 is that it decomposes rapidly when it comes into contact with oxygen. That and its also a highly corrosive oxidizer. Ph is in the mid 11's. Not something you would want too much around.

Then again you might want to reconsider anything you are closely changing its molecular structure from a solid to a close gas form when its base element is something like hydrogen.

damn..thanks for the heads up..i thought of putting h2o in a fogger before as well, but now i know not to. but what about ferts?

 

[stopthemadness]

I guess I should have quoted it. You can only make 2 applications per crop, per year, and only up to 16oz per acre, meaning it can only be used every six months.

No harm, no foul man. Thanks for the good information on Floramite. It took me a while o do the math on this, but if it is true than you are right. Odd, there seems to be conflicting information about this from the distributors of it. Will have to look into this further. Could it be that it disipates faster because it is diluted to 3mL/gal of water?

 

[stopthemadness]

I would not use that product with flowering plants... then imo... I dont spray anytnin on my gals when they are flowerin. If you have mites and you are that far into flowerin you, imo, can either tuff it out and win the battle after the harvest or cut your losses now and eradicate em.

as for rootrot.... sanitize with h202 rinse, keeping rez temps down, inceasing oxygen and introducing beneficials e.g. EA/EN worked for me.

Thanks for dropping in and dropping your two cents. I agree that Floramite should not be used after week 3 of an 8 week flowering. This way the product has the three weeks + an extra 2 and a week of drying and 4 more of curing to dissipate. That's 10 weeks. When possible an organic or mechanical method should be employed (spray with natural remedy or remove infected plants / parts). But when all else fails I beleive this stuff works and may be used safely.

As for the rootrot, I use the very same methods. I was thinking the non-H2O2 sanitizing fog would be a great way to kill any residual spores on walls, in cracks or crevices and other places hard to clean manually. Also, if any spores have gotten onto foliage and would infect clones the fogger would kill them much more conveniently than hand spraying with an H2O2 dilution and without raising humidity (since its a dry fog).

 

[stopthemadness]

The problem with 'fogging' H2O2 is that it decomposes rapidly when it comes into contact with oxygen. That and its also a highly corrosive oxidizer. Ph is in the mid 11's. Not something you would want too much around.

Then again you might want to reconsider anything you are closely changing its molecular structure from a solid to a close gas form when its base element is something like hydrogen.

Dude, Verite you sound like you know what you're saying and that's enough for me! That explains why I haven't found any H2O2 foggers.