I'm redoing my top feed from black poly to pvc and I cant decide if I should use top hats or a pipe thread to barb fitting in the main line and drip rings they are both about the same price I don't know which would be better to use I'm doing a 3/4 pvc main line to 1/4 hose to drip rings made from 1/2 pvc anyone have any ideas pros cons cant decide which to use thanks
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top hat grommets vs pipe thread to barb fitting
- Thread starter 777ford
- Start date
the only pex that is light proof is that oxygen barrier pex they use in radiant heating and hot water systems.
the problem with pex will always be the cost of tools and fittings.
even the uponor system with the plastic fittings... a tee is a dollar and a brass drop elbow is like 11 bucks. each ring is like 10 cents, each bend support is like a dollar... its just too expensive to non potable water shit.
sharkbite fittings are even worse... and they only work on shitty class B pex.
who cares if light gets through your PVC. just dose some chlorine. its what they do in greenhouse drip irrigation. you can get a few seasons out of the poly pipe that way assuming u have sediment and scaling under control.
the problem with pex will always be the cost of tools and fittings.
even the uponor system with the plastic fittings... a tee is a dollar and a brass drop elbow is like 11 bucks. each ring is like 10 cents, each bend support is like a dollar... its just too expensive to non potable water shit.
sharkbite fittings are even worse... and they only work on shitty class B pex.
who cares if light gets through your PVC. just dose some chlorine. its what they do in greenhouse drip irrigation. you can get a few seasons out of the poly pipe that way assuming u have sediment and scaling under control.
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TreehouseJ
PVC cutters>band saw>hacksaw>chop saw and worst case scenario, sawzall. PVC cutters slice like butter, and nothing worse than trying to hold a recipro-saw in one hand while trying to steady your material in the other. Embarrassing how many hours I wasted this way before I got myself a bandsaw.
Regarding algae and gunk, I wouldn't even try recirculating any water again through any type of hose without taking some preventative measures against nasties. I read diluted pool shock works great. I use gold zone and I have nothing but good things to say about it.
Regarding algae and gunk, I wouldn't even try recirculating any water again through any type of hose without taking some preventative measures against nasties. I read diluted pool shock works great. I use gold zone and I have nothing but good things to say about it.
https://www.gmesupply.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/2/6/2625_1.png
Milwaukee has this little gem which they must have invented just for plumbers. It's pistol gripped so you can hold the pipe in 1 hand. Prob completely irrelevant for the OP but I felt compelled to spread news of the awesomeNess of this tool.
Anyways.... chop saw is awesome too. If your really worried about the algae just spray paint the pipe black. And as a precaution run mild bleach in your rez and flush lines with hot water cleaning solution between runs.
Milwaukee has this little gem which they must have invented just for plumbers. It's pistol gripped so you can hold the pipe in 1 hand. Prob completely irrelevant for the OP but I felt compelled to spread news of the awesomeNess of this tool.
Anyways.... chop saw is awesome too. If your really worried about the algae just spray paint the pipe black. And as a precaution run mild bleach in your rez and flush lines with hot water cleaning solution between runs.
Hackzalls are good for PVC. With that pussy battery, little else. Milwaukee has a whole line on the M12, but you need half a dozen batteries and two chargers to get any work done.
The cordless Superhawg shows where their mind is re: up their ass.
A simple trick to steady plastic pipe. Crouch down to the ground, and while sitting on one calf (corresponding to your dominant hand) slip the pipe behind the knee of the other leg and over the thigh. Clench the knee holding the pipe and cut.
Works as well in a ditch as on dry level ground.
Next week we'll learn how to cut metal strapping with no tools and separate glued fittings at the worst possible moment.
The cordless Superhawg shows where their mind is re: up their ass.
A simple trick to steady plastic pipe. Crouch down to the ground, and while sitting on one calf (corresponding to your dominant hand) slip the pipe behind the knee of the other leg and over the thigh. Clench the knee holding the pipe and cut.
Works as well in a ditch as on dry level ground.
Next week we'll learn how to cut metal strapping with no tools and separate glued fittings at the worst possible moment.
T
TreehouseJ
Brilliant. My hands still sting though just thinking of all the shaking I've been through with recipro saws. Ever since I got my portable band saw, I only really use my sawzalls for demo'ing.
I dunno about the pussy comment but the M18 is the most widely used cordless kit for good reason. Hilti is wonderful but no one can afford it. Dewalt, mikita, all others are a step below milwaukee. I do commercial construction and it is the standard
My mistake, I thought that was the smaller line, the M12 (the pussy comment was directed here).
I don't mind the M18's but unless it's a small job I use corded cutting or drilling tools. Every tool has an ideal use. Before this I worked as a plumber. Many servicemen like the M12 for convenience and they rarely make more than one or two cuts. I did new builds residential/commercial and prefered corded.
Treehouse,
I tend to agree. I can make a straight cut with a hacksaw before most people can make an off angle one with a sawzall anyway
I love jobs clean enough for tools like that but I spent a lot of time in ditches/crawl space.
I don't mind the M18's but unless it's a small job I use corded cutting or drilling tools. Every tool has an ideal use. Before this I worked as a plumber. Many servicemen like the M12 for convenience and they rarely make more than one or two cuts. I did new builds residential/commercial and prefered corded.
Treehouse,
I tend to agree. I can make a straight cut with a hacksaw before most people can make an off angle one with a sawzall anyway
I love jobs clean enough for tools like that but I spent a lot of time in ditches/crawl space.i do agree that most commercial folks prefer milwakee junk in particular.
problem is... the fucking batteries are like apple products.
once you buy a dewalt drill, you are stuck with their battery system. thats where i am.
i got a nice dewalt BRUSHED hammer drill combo drill driver. it was the only one that had lowish orbital gearing so i could mix grout and thinset without needing another tool.
now i have 2 huge 4ah batteries though and it makes no sense to me to get another brand... another set of batteries and another charger.
regarding cutting pvc. ive tried them all. miter saw is best for precision. a goog pvc shear is second for general field shit.
the rolling wheel cutters are good too...especially for larger diameters, but you need the ultra slim wheels for pvc.
the carbide wheels meant for steel or copper pipe leave very pronounced ridges on each side of the cut... these make for a good interferance fit sometimes... other times they prevent the pvc from sliding all the way down.
in the latter case you need some sand paper to remove this bump.
problem is... the fucking batteries are like apple products.
once you buy a dewalt drill, you are stuck with their battery system. thats where i am.
i got a nice dewalt BRUSHED hammer drill combo drill driver. it was the only one that had lowish orbital gearing so i could mix grout and thinset without needing another tool.
now i have 2 huge 4ah batteries though and it makes no sense to me to get another brand... another set of batteries and another charger.
regarding cutting pvc. ive tried them all. miter saw is best for precision. a goog pvc shear is second for general field shit.
the rolling wheel cutters are good too...especially for larger diameters, but you need the ultra slim wheels for pvc.
the carbide wheels meant for steel or copper pipe leave very pronounced ridges on each side of the cut... these make for a good interferance fit sometimes... other times they prevent the pvc from sliding all the way down.
in the latter case you need some sand paper to remove this bump.
T
TreehouseJ
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS387B-20-volt-Compact-Reciprocating/dp/B00ODN0S70
this thing is the most popular cordless one that i know of... its got the motor cocked at an angle instead of directly inline with the blade.
its not the best sawzall by any means... no orbital cutting and its stroke is not as long as that 300 dollar bosch one everyone uses for demo... but its pretty good for tight spaces like attics and closet demos and shit.
@ tree lol us poor plebs cant afford anything from hilti.
god just the hilti impact bits are ball busting.
not all 12v tools are shit.
i have the bosch 12v drill driver and impact driver.
the drill driver... yea i never use it unless i cant fit my big drill into a space, but the bosch 12v impact driver is the SMALLEST fucking impact driver on the planet.
i love it alot. without it i couldnt have installed about 80% of the soffit framing i put up on my moms place.
its so deliciously small. the grip is really nice too. it feels like i squeezing a hard fat log of shit or something around that diameter.
the battery is shit though. you can get a much higher cap battery, but then it like doubles the size of the driver. i dont think there is much you can do with a battery that physically small though.
i would go thought like 4 battery changes a day just driving like 200 these #14 pocket screws and 3-500 of these super galvanized simpson screws.
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TreehouseJ
I have anchored every aisle in every walmart and best buy from here to timbuktu with that bosch. Love that f'n thing.
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TreehouseJ
^^^ Corded over everything. I have lost so many batteries and chargers running around like a chicken with its head cut off.. My Hilti was kind of just an incentive to keep track of my shit. I won't buy anything cordless unless corded isn't an option. Period. Waste of money.
Damn right about the batteries being the hook that gets you. The new M18 5.0 is 130! The trick for that is to hit the annual summer tent sale at your local industrial tool place. It's actually cheaper to buy the drill/ driver starter kits for like 200 then sell the tools and keep the batteries. I ended up $100 in to have 3 brand new 18 volt bats can't beat that.
You see the whole industry switching to cordless for all types of power tools now. It's because the safety officers trying to suck oshas dick... gfi for every cord, can't repair damaged cords (which cost as much as batteries), having to hang your extension cords overhead to avoid trip hazards, massively skimping on temp power, ect....
You see the whole industry switching to cordless for all types of power tools now. It's because the safety officers trying to suck oshas dick... gfi for every cord, can't repair damaged cords (which cost as much as batteries), having to hang your extension cords overhead to avoid trip hazards, massively skimping on temp power, ect....
i would consider getting a new battery system when i get all my tools and shit organized into some mobile container type system.
im nowhere close yet though... i have bags and bags of shit and like 4 tool boxes. idk how it got so bad, but i just dont want to manage 3 chargers and 3 different battery packs instead of two.
i even thought about getting a bosch radio that would charge my 12v shit... just so i dont have to keep track of the charger. my shit is so fucked.
Drop That Sound
Well-known member
How about building one big battery box, multi voltage selection 12-20v, with the charger built in, and a radio too! Long retractable cords that each has gutted battery packs on the ends, for any brand tool you want to plug in!
