the same old deficiency.....

[powdergreen]

Well i had the same deficiency on last grow. It would first start out as a very faint mottling inbetween veins and slowly progress to the pics below. The chlorisis doesnt usual start at tip, more the midddle of the blade and the yellowing seems to be more on the top of plant and middle but there are some that have it lower on the plant... they are grown in promix pH6.2 ppm1000 @.5 conversion soil run off ph 5.8 ppm700-1500. I have been hitting my head hard to figure out. I did switch nutes in the third week of flower cause I was sick off getting this yellowing. Also the yellowing on about 2-3 plants eventually looked like pic 3 curling upwards like P def. I was thinking it might have been too much P locking out cooper, Zinc and even K. What do you think? Your input would be greatly appreciated. One other note is a few of my plants have been leaning not due to stem weakness or bud weight but the roots at the base dont seem to be holding, like they are getting up lifted right at the base???? I have had that many times maybe root rot maybe im not letting my clones fill out their pots before transplant or not putting cube low enough... I dont know .... Maybe you do.

 

[MTF-Sandman]

Looks like heat/light burn to me...

 

[powdergreen]

temps ambient- 80-82 canopy height -85 so heat/light burn starts out with a mottling of the leaf first. I try to show a pic of the mottling its hard to see with camera, Im pretty sure its not a haet issue as my heat was higher in summer and with different nutes and that did not occur.

 

[Guest]

It looks like they were too close to the light....

Normally deficiencies in a leaf have a symetrical look to them...

One of your leaves shows a leaf burned at the tip and along one side only....

This is a pretty good indication that its not a deficiency but the leat was scorched by the light....

Its not about the room temp.... its about the plant getting too close to the light...

 

[Guest]

That really looks like heat burn. were those leafs close to the light?

 

[powdergreen]

no these came off of a plant that was on the outside edge of the garden

 

[powdergreen]

alright heres a few more pics, these ones show what first happens, maybe some of those are a heat issue, but this one does not look like it, those other pics first looked like this and then progressed. looks like a copper def or maybe zinc??? Im still thinking too much P. Any one else have an idea??

 

[Jesusbuiltmygro]

To help you out better could you post more info about your grow conditions, nutrients, light, soil. Maybe a pic of your plants in the grow area also.

While it does look like an issue where the plant could be too close to the light I don't see how it would be effecting the those lowering leaves and not those top sugar leaves.

Zinc does produce a similar pattern as slow heat damage.

I find most of these mysterous deficiencies come from PH one way or another. The only other more mysterious deficiency is when your plants become root bound, which can happen if your veg too long in small containers. Transplanting doesn't necessarily fix root bound plants. The roots need to be pruned. You can see rootbound plants during transplant by the appearance of long white roots wrapping around the rootball. Rootbound plants don't react to nutrients very well and effectively lock out nutrients making root pruning the only option to fix the plant. If your in flower and realize your rootbound, too late, unless you want to switch back to veg. I dont think your rootbound, but since we don't have much info on how you got to where you are it is a possibility.

What worries me is you saying the roots at the base are not holding. This could be a sign of root rot. Remember plants like it when the soil dries out. You may want to experiment and just not water your plant until it wilts slightly so your sure it's dried out. Your plant looks pretty good however and overwatered plants usually have downturned/droopy leaves.

Perhaps the roots not holding at hte bottom problem could have come from an earlier transplant in which you transplanted and then switched to bloom too soon. If your transplanted and then immediately switched to bloom your plants root structure will not fill out beyond the point you switched to bloom.

Does your soil have nutes added to it or are you relying completely on your liquid nutrient water scheme ? Your soil is 6.5 but your runoff is 5.8 you say.
Just for fun you might try upping the PH of your water a tad. I assume your adjusting it with PH down to get it low enough for a 5.8 ph run off. I'd try shooting for a ph of 6.2-6.5 and see if that helps clear things up at all. Remember it wont be instantaneous or anything. You'll just notice less yellowing. Also remember leaves are supposed to yellow in bloom a bit, just not curl up and die. I def find 5.8 a bit low. How do you measure your soils PHs just out of curiousity?

here is some info that might help you pinpoint a possible PH problem. Wow that a lot of P's

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=42550&highlight=soil+PH

http://anonymouse.org/cgi-bin/anon-...m/ic/showthread.php?t=39120&highlight=soil+PH

 

[powdergreen]

hello Jesusbuiltmygrow, thanks for the input, if you read the start of thread i explain my setup there. They are under 1000 wattx4. After transplanting well rooted in 1 gal into 3 gal i vegged for another week before flipping. Except one light some were behind they went from one gal to 3 gal straight into flower and they are doing great, even though they were transplanted and went staight to bloom they filled their container very well, actually they suck up the water better then the other three lights. I usual Ph water 6.2 to 6.3 lately a little higher 6.5 due to 5.8 runoff. imho that is low I find when PH is between 6.2 and 6.5 I have much better results then on the lower end of PH (5.8-6.2) I measure Ph by watering then adding Ro water until they drip take dripiings and measure. I usually never have to Ph down as I am now using RO water have to PH up when I water with no nutes I do not add any PH adjustment.

 

[powdergreen]

no one have any other ideas, sorry the other pics didnt add but there they are now. wondering if you think those pics are still heat stress?

 

[MynameStitch]

I can see where you saying zinc issues, but that is not the issue here. THe issue like sandman and budley has stated is this is a case of heat stress, more raidant heat then direct heat, where the lumens are to powerfull and is bleeching the plant's chlorphyll off the leaves! raise the light. Remember all strains have different tolerances to heat nutrients and care nd of course the amount of light it can handle weather it's up close or so much light per sq feet of space.

 

[powdergreen]

Well Just wondering what is the ideal height of a light. My shade is cone shape with the light in a vertical position. Should I measure distance from bottom of shade since the light emits sideways then gets reflected.

would low Rh about 40% contruibute to heat stress... oh yeah and thanks for every ones reponses. Much appreciated

 

[Hotgurl]

This was copper deficiency. Sometimes with copper deficiency you get a burn on the leaves like frost damage/too cold has occured. Take a look at the photos and notice the new leaves are yellowing between the veins but the tip and edges of the leaf are still green. Too much zinc can cause copper def but more likely its nitrogen excess/not enough copper. P excess could cause copper trouble too like already mentioned.

 

[Verite]

I can see where you saying zinc issues, but that is not the issue here. THe issue like sandman and budley has stated is this is a case of heat stress, more raidant heat then direct heat, where the lumens are to powerfull and is bleeching the plant's chlorphyll off the leaves! raise the light. Remember all strains have different tolerances to heat nutrients and care nd of course the amount of light it can handle weather it's up close or so much light per sq feet of space.

I agree with Stitch. If it were anything else it wouldnt localize to one leaflet on a leaf. You can see where the dark chlorphyll locations on the leaf are getting bleached by radiant burn.

 

[Verite]

... I did switch nutes in the third week of flower cause I was sick off getting this yellowing....

More info on this too.

 

[Guest]

This was copper deficiency. Sometimes with copper deficiency you get a burn on the leaves like frost damage/too cold has occured. Take a look at the photos and notice the new leaves are yellowing between the veins but the tip and edges of the leaf are still green. Too much zinc can cause copper def but more likely its nitrogen excess/not enough copper. P excess could cause copper trouble too like already mentioned.

Who does this remind us of?? Hey sproutco

mynamestich has it right. radiant burn

 

[powdergreen]

thanks guys and gurls for the replies. I swithced ferts cause I had the same discolration happening previously. I swithced in week three, I know thats not the best but I needed more ferts and I wasnt happy with that stuff. I really dont know if it could be radiant bleaching, because I have also seen it in the veg room and there isnt as much light power and the plant showing it is far from light source. With my old fert, I would not have this bleaching effect and it was the same amount of light and temps and the same strain. Also my old nutes had a tonne of nitrogen thats another reason I dont like it they would stretch and continue growth in flowering. My old ferts had4-1-6 in the grow and 7-0-1 in micros. I didnt think a Nitrogen tox could cause copper def. Thanks again for the info everyone.