The Phases of Flowering

[blackosprey]

I searched the board for this topic, but couldn't find it anywhere. A quick googling, and I found this. I thought it would be beneficial to post up here. Hopefully, this will help some new growers along, or at the least start a lively debate on the subject.
On to the quote....

"0-2 weeks - the plant notices the change from 18/6 or 24/0 to 12/12. It rearranges it's priorities, and so it's metabolism in order to start bud production. The plant will continue to grow in height.

2-3 weeks - the first pistils or balls appear. The very first will show at the main nodes (between the main stem and a secondary stem). Males tend to show sex earlier than females since males have a faster metabolism.

3-5 weeks - pistils have formed on all nodes or stem tips.

5-6/8 weeks (depending on strain) - the actual buds form.

6/8-9/12 weeks (depending on strain) - the buds show a higher density.

7/9-10/12 (depending on strain) - leaves start to yellow as a sign that N once stored is being used for bud production. The plant shows a condition known as Sinsemilla (sin - without, semilla - seeds, both spanish terms). In this condition,calyxes swell in an attempt to better receive pollen. During this period, bud size doubles.

During flowering, but never on a fixed schedule, the pistils will turn from white to red/amber/copper/brown and the trichromes will turn from clear to milky and then amber. It is believed to be ideal for pistils to be over 70% red when harvesting.

Also, clear trichromes have no effect to a racy effect, milky trichromes produce a head buzz, typical for sativas, red trichromes produce a body stone, typical for indicas. In my experience, sativas will naturally present more milky than red trichomes while indicas more red trichromes. Depending on the type of high you are looking for, wait for the milky/red ratio you are looking for and then harvest.

Flush when the 25-30% of pistils start turning red, so you know that you have a minimum of 2 weeks flushing time."

Any additional information/guidance/help is greatly appreciated

 

[NeWcS]

That's some great info man! nice!

 

[Killuminatti]

I like this breakdown you have here. Helps to understand what to look for visually. I think it would help even more if we could build onto it a bit more with some minor details like what nutrients and additives are beneficial at said stages of growth. Kind of like a nute feed schedule but with more of a generalization on what nutes or additives do to the plant in each of the stages of growth. Sure the info is on the forums but it would be nice to have a quick "Go-To" chart stickied in the new growers forum to show what people can use to either improve certain parts of growth or reverse certain deficiencies or problems. I think I think too much... good shit regardless though! +K

 

[Space Ghost]

Also, clear trichomes have no effect

sure they do... You've never had to harvest early? Every trichome clear as day, and still gets you where you need to be...

 

[blackosprey]

Like I said, I found this info on another site, and copy-pasted it here. I have pulled buds off early in times of a pinch, and yes they do have an effect. It's much more of a racy kind of buzz than I enjoy personally, but as they say "any port in a storm," right?
But this is completely open for discussion and improvement. Eventually, it should be stickyed or added to one of the tutorials. I clearly remember being 4-5 weeks into my first run wondering if things were going to plump up or if my last 3 months of work and attention to three plants would result in 7 grams of fluff with no thick budding....

 

[Cptn]

There was a book by Jim Richardson called "Sinsemilla, Marijuana Flowers"
It is out of print but old copies are available HERE and on amazon.

It is a glossy coffee table book filled with gorgeous photos of the entire flowering process (called florescence) and details of each stage.
This book first released in 1976 and had a huge impact in dispelling myths around the lifecycle of herb at the time among stoners/would be growers.

Nothing in this thread or the wiki pages that the content of the OP's first post came from come close to covering it in the detail that book did.

I have forgotten the details and my book is long gone ("borrowed" by a friend who needed it more than I did.)

 

[Cptn]

Article highlighting the importance of this book in sinsemilla cultivation in the US.

http://www.cannabisculture.com/v2/articles/4721.html

 

[Guest2012z]

I was once told that there are 3 stages of plant growth; seed, veg and flower and each was split into 3 stages. i believe the lecturer was speaking from a book published on marijuana by a guy with the last name "GREEN".

 

[NorcalBob]

I dont agree with alot of the stages that your presenting, your 2-3week stage is 10 days in. Week 2-3 you should have decent sized Q-tips to cotton balls, 3-5 buds developed all along the stems, 5- to finish she's filling out.

And trich color has nothing to do with strain, it's all about maturity of the buds. Clear = racey, amber= toreback.

And plants dont pretend to be pollinated, they are seeking/fiending for some pollen, so they swellup trying to make as much surface and elbow room for each calyx's stigmas to get some male lovin.

Dont mean to piss in your cherrios but do a little research or make the thread name, "Phases of Flowering??". Copy and paste owns but lets be able to get behind what we post "for the new growers", especially huh?

Stay lifted!~

 

[blackosprey]

Thanks for your input everyone.
NorcalBob, this is meant to be a "lively discussion," so criticism and disagreement are welcome. After looking through a ton of threads by searching here and in other locations, this was the only thing I found that explained it out in simple terms. In my limited experience, things always take longer than expected. I made the mistake to "start counting" days at the 12/12 flip, not when real flowering began. For instance, right now I have a sweet seeds Ganesh Spirit going right now, supposedly a 56 day finisher, but didn't show true pistils until 18 days after flip (sativa dom). That puts it in that 2-3 week range listed above. It is very strain dependent, however, as the c99 in the same space and under same conditions was showing at day 10.
I agree with your observation on calyx swelling in search of pollen vs "pretending to be pollenated." I will go up and correct that statement.
And thanks again for input, this is a very important but not often discussed part of the process.

 

[NorcalBob]

Always start counting the day you flip it, not the day she shows. Almost 3 weeks in and barely showing doesn't sounds right, but perhaps /shrug. Were the plants mature when you flipped them? Were they showing pistols at every node, is what I mean. Really young plants might take a bit longer to lift their skirts but at 3 weeks you should have some baby buds on board. I find that between Sativa and Indica both start and develop pretty much hand in hand, its middle and finishing times that differ.

 

[Cptn]

Always start counting the day you flip it, not the day she shows. Almost 3 weeks in and barely showing doesn't sounds right, but perhaps /shrug. Were the plants mature when you flipped them? Were they showing pistols at every node, is what I mean. Really young plants might take a bit longer to lift their skirts but at 3 weeks you should have some baby buds on board. I find that between Sativa and Indica both start and develop pretty much hand in hand, its middle and finishing times that differ.

Agreed Bob.
If the plant takes 18 days to show a pistil after the flip, I have to wonder how long you vegged for . . . 3 days? From seed or clone?

Also agree about adding "???" to the thread subject. Seems it has wandered a bit from "Look, I found the answer!" to "Lets discuss and find the truth together."

The emphasis on using pistil condition for determining stages of maturity always makes me stop reading. No matter who is saying it.

Space Ghost nailed it on the authors claim that clear trichomes don't get you high. Wow . . .

cptn

 

[Killuminatti]

Some more useful info I found on the www:

What is NPK, how does it affect my plants, and what combinations do I need?

N – Nitrogen

Nitrogen is a unique element, as plants are able to take up nitrogen in the form of an anion (a negatively charged molecule) or a cation (a positively charged molecule). Plants are able to take up nitrogen in as NO3 or Nitrates and NH4 Ammonium. Plants require or consume more nitrates than ammonia, thus its not. A well balanced nutrient solution will have less than 10% of available nitrogen in the form of ammonia. Nitrogen has many functions in the plant; it is found in proteins, chlorophyll, protoplasm and plant hormones.

Source – All premixed nutrients will have adequate nitrogen levels. If a customer wishes to give his plants extra nitrogen in the vegetative stage then he can use Cal-Mag Plus at a rate of 1-2 teaspoons (5-10ml) per gallon. This will supply the plant with 25 – 50ppm extra nitrogen, this will be more than adequate. Using Cal-Mag will also supply the plant with extra Calcium, Magnesium and Iron. If a customer wishes to use an organic source of nitrogen then they can use Mexican Bat Guano. Note that only 1% of the 10% of nitrogen in Mexican Bat Guano is readily available to the plant, the other 9% will slowly be released over a few weeks as the organic nitrogen is broken down. Bat Guano cannot be used in NFT or aeroponic systems; it will also have a limited affect in ebb and flow and drip systems. Bat Guano is ideal for soil growers.

Deficiency – Growth is slow, sparse and spindly the older leaves turn yellow and will eventually dry out and die. The complete leaf will turn yellow, with no green veins.

Toxicity – The plants will produce excess foliage that will be dark green. The plants will also be softer, disease and insect outbreaks will be severe (this will be due to a weaker softer plant). The root system will also be underdeveloped. High nitrogen levels can also retard flowering and fruiting, decrease in yields as flowers don’t set and lower fruit quality. Nitrogen deficiency and toxicity is rear and will not be a problem if growers use premixed nutrients and follow the directions for these nutrients.
********************************************************
P – Phosphorus

Phosphorus is a very important nutrient for plants. It is required by seedlings, newly rooted clones and flowering and fruiting plants. Phosphorus is essential for the development of healthy roots, stimulation of flowering, ripening of fruits and seed production. Phosphorus is also required for the hydrolysis of starch to sugar and for the synthesis of starch to sugars (also known as energy transfer).

Source – Again, premix nutrients will have adequate phosphorus for general plant growth. Plants will need extra phosphorus when the plants begin flowering and fruiting. This is why growers must change from a vegetative formula to a flowering formula. The flowering formulas will have higher phosphate and potassium levels to help stimulate flowering, fruiting and seed production. This all culminates in higher yields and better tasting produce. Taste is increased because of higher synthesis of starch in to plant sugars. For a customer to really boost their yields of flowering and fruiting crops it is advisable for them to use a blooming enhancer. Bloom Booster, Monster Bloom, KoolBloom and PK13/14 are all products that will boost phosphorus and potassium levels. Bloom Blaster and Monster Bloom must be applied at a rate of 1 teaspoon (5 grams) per 5 galloons of water. Kool Bloom ¼ teaspoon per gallon or 1¼ teaspoons per 5 gallons of water. PK13/14 must be applied at a rate of 1¼ teaspoons (5ml) per gallon of water. For organic growers, in the soil, Jamaican Bat Guano can be used at a rate of 2-3 (10-15 grams) tablespoons per gallon of water.

Deficiency – Plants are stunted and the leaves turn dark green to purplish color. This is due to a buildup of Anthocyanin pigments. These symptoms occur in the older leaves first. Plant maturity will also be delayed and yields will be low. Seed production is also severely affected.

Toxicity – Phosphorus toxicity is very difficult to diagnose. Excess phosphorus will cause deficiencies of calcium, iron, copper and zinc. This will cause confusing signals as other minerals may be showing signs of deficiencies even when adequate amounts of these minerals are present.
**********************************************************
K – Potassium

Potassium is the catalyst in plants. It is important for the manufacture and transport of plant sugars/carbohydrates, increases the chlorophyll in leaves, regulates the opening and closing of the leaf stomata and aids in disease resistance, water uptake and ripening process of fruits. Potassium is also found in the juice of fruits which contributes to an increase of fruit taste and fruit quality.

Sources – The sources of potassium are the same for Phosphorus above.

Deficiency – Symptoms occur in older leaves first with yellow blotches and in severe cases dead spots will occur. Branches and stems will weaken and eventually becomes brittle. Flowering and fruiting is diminished and yields are low and poor in quality.

Toxicity – leaf margins may burn in sever cases, but often it will effect the uptake of magnesium and magnesium deficiencies will occur.
****************************************************************
Ca – Calcium

Calcium is as important as N, P and K. Calcium is required in the roots, stems, leaves and fruits of plants. It is found in every cell wall and is required for the absorption of nitrogen.

Sources – Most nutrient solutions will have adequate calcium for general plant growth. If a customer is using RO water then they should consider using Cal-Mag Plus. An application rate of 1-2 (5-10ml) teaspoons per gallon of water is sufficient to rectify any deficiencies.

Deficiency – Flower bud development is retarded, thus reducing yields, fruit size is decreased. Roots die, leaving the plant open to root rot attack. Young leaves show symptoms before older leaves. The leaves can be deformed, and have yellow blotches which later turns into dead spots.

Toxicity – No visual symptoms; may cause magnesium deficiency.
**********************************************************
Mg – Magnesium

Magnesium is found in the chlorophyll molecule. If a deficiency of magnesium occurs then magnesium is transported from the lower leaves to the new leaves. Magnesium uptake is affected by the concentration of Potassium. If high levels of potassium are applied then the amount of magnesium should increase e.g. at the second week of flowering when blooming enhancers are used then Cal-Mag Plus should be applied.

Sources – Most nutrient solutions will have adequate amounts of magnesium. If a grower is using RO water then Cal-Mag Plus should be used.

Deficiency – Older leaves, lower half of the plants’ leaves show signs of yellowing. The yellowing occurs between the leaf veins which remains green.

Toxicity – There are visual symptoms for magnesium toxicity.
**************************************************************
Si – Silicon

Accumulates mostly in the epidermal cells of a plant. It is also found in other cell walls. Silicon helps creates hardier, heavier and stronger plants. It has also been known to increase the plants resistance to fungal attacks.

Sources – Silica Blast and Pro-Tekt (both potassium silicate) and Pyrosol are the main sources of silicon. Growers should take care when using these products as they will increase the pH of the nutrient solution, thus the grower will need to add pH Down to bring the pH back to 6.

Deficiency – Deficiencies of silicon have been known to reduce yields.

Toxicity – Not known.