the Hand Watering coco thread

[Dman619]

Also, I've been posting around trying to find out if anyone has any experience in transplanting from soil TO coco. I have some sickly plants in some soil I think may have been contaminated by a faulty Hydrohut. They are only about 14 inches tall and in one gallon containers. Has anyone tried this with any degree of success? Washing the soil free from the roots? It sounds like risky business to me.

I transplanted an outdoor plant from soil to coco when I moved it inside. I did wash the roots with tap water, I then filled my pot to the level i wanted held the plant there and started filling coco in around it. After I had the pot filled and the plant sturdy I watered with Ph balanced water with about 15ml rhizotonic per gallon.I watered till I had about 10% run off. The plant did shock some but recovered in about 3-4 hrs. Oh yeah I transplanted into 6in. pots and had the plant on 18/6.

 

[summitoker]

So using a mix, of about 75/25, coco fiber /happy frog potting soil. Plus a handful of worm castings and perlite.
Should i be watering with a mild nutrient, or will the soil and worm poo provide enough for a while? Should i use a coco specific nutrient? Also will the soil impede root development compared to just coco? The happy frog has a bunch of differant beneficials....

 

[m4n]

So i have to use RO water if i go coco?

 

[whodi]

So i have to use RO water if i go coco?

Nope, my tap water works perfectly fine with coco. Just add your nutes to your water and adjust the pH accordingly.

Since I use tap water, I don't need to use Cal/Mag... something you will most likely need if you use RO water

 

[weedpureweed]

I hand-water cheese cut in 3.5L pot which needs a pump/timer setting up as I have to water at least 5 times a day right now lol but I am right next to the budbox when I 'm on the p.c so its not much effort really. I will try some 6.5L pots next run though. Also I'm using up some old hydro nutes and I think the higher k levels over coco nutes are causing calcium lock out as least I think thats the problem so will flush tomorrow.

Also use regen-a-root which is great for roots but I don't remember to add it all the time.



Transplanting from soil to coco is no problem, I have gone from soil to coco and back to soil again with the same plant, had no problems.

 

[so im forum]

excellent thread, guys! i learned a lot.

 

[bonecarver_OG]

last adition to this thread should be to keep nutes low

better be safe than sorry

peace all

 

[ChaosX]

Hi
What do you think guys about this set to coco?

Guanokalong (during flowering 2 weeks)
Hesi Coco (during whole grow)
Hesi Pk 13/14 (last 2 weeks)
Hesi Super-Vit (during whole grow)
Hesi PowerZyme (twice a week)

thanks in advance for replies

 

[jws0007]

Well here's a question for ya'll. I have Canna's Coco Coir, Canna A+B and Rhizotonic. When I mix 5ml A + 5ml B + 2ml Rhizotonic the ph of my water/feed mix is 5.8. I then pour it into my coco coir. Taking a reading from my run off (water that comes out of the bottom of the pot) it swings drastically to 4 or 4 point something. So is that normal whats up. My water out of the tap is 7. Dont have a ppm meter just ph tester. Thanks guys.

0007

 

[bonecarver_OG]

chaos -

guano is very strong to use in coco - i dont recomend it at all really..

PK 13-14 in my opinion should be given earlier than 2 weeks before harvest..

super vit is really potent too and its not really necesary to use a lot or often - every now and then is enough - and use it during veg - that way u get more out of it.

powerzyme i dont know - but if its a enzyme for breaking down /flushing out nutes - it seems a bit too much to use it twice a week imho..


JWs -

dont worry too much of the run-off unless you are using a re-circulating system.. coco is acidic. but normally around a ph6 or so.

peace

 

[repuk]

Hiya all

I'm a newbie grower, after extensive reading I decided to go for hand watered coco indoor for learning...

Right now I have these seedlings:

- CosmosSeeds Skunk Express: those paid all my mistakes , I started in soil outdoors about a month ago, with straight out-of-the-bag, unwashed hydroton on the pot bottom, they stunted and turned out yellow... then caught white fly... they were completely stunted, so I ended up conditioning an Ikea cab as a micro-indoor setup and transplanted them to coco... looks like they're awaking now...

Mandala: Kalichakra & Sadhu. Have a couple Sadhus with rather impressive growth!! one is on its 3d pair of real leaves with just a week.

Serious Seeds: Kali Mist

I use Canna coco, for nutes I'm using Atami B'cuzz A+B and ATA XL as an organic supplement, I thought on keeping things simple with few variables to make learning easier.

I sprouted the Mandala's on peat tabs, then transplanted to coco in disposable cups as soon as roots pierced the tabs and showed, but had a couple problems with a couple sproutings getting "stuck" on them, so the Kali Mist went seeded straigth to coco.

I used 0,5ml A+B / 0.5ml ATA XL after the first pair of leaves showed.

Right now I'm a little worried as the fastest and biggest one (hope it's a female!) a Mandala Sadhu, had a couple chlorosis spots on the first leaves and then one necrosed, leaves are also slightly "twisted".

According to thread 46474 (sorry cannot post urls???) that looks like K def or Sodium excess?? and matches even the "fastest growing, biggest plant" in the symptoms descriptions, how could that be with fresh coco and low dosage nutes??? that's about 1/4 the dosage will post pics. Leaves look to me ealthy green.

I ph my rested tap water to 5.8.

I recently watered all of them with 0,5ml/L neem oil as a preventive, dunno if that's intended only for more mature plants...

Well here's a question for ya'll. I have Canna's Coco Coir, Canna A+B and Rhizotonic. When I mix 5ml A + 5ml B + 2ml Rhizotonic the ph of my water/feed mix is 5.8. I then pour it into my coco coir. Taking a reading from my run off (water that comes out of the bottom of the pot) it swings drastically to 4 or 4 point something. So is that normal whats up. My water out of the tap is 7. Dont have a ppm meter just ph tester. Thanks guys.

0007

According to post #15 in thread 47003:

If you grow hydrological on coco it is quite easy to maintain the correct pH-value by means ofthe following formulaH of the new nutrient solution = 2 x [5.8 – (½ pH drain water)]. Here the pH drain water is the pH of the old drain water left behind after previous watering(s). Test your soil every threeweeks or let a growshop check it. You can buy a pH-meter from Euro 40.Good drainage prevents build up of acids and salts.

hope it helps!

un saludote bonecarver_OG!!! he aprendido un huevo con tus posts

 

[repuk]

JWs -

dont worry too much of the run-off unless you are using a re-circulating system.. coco is acidic. but normally around a ph6 or so.

peace

Ok, so no need to tweak PH with that formula if hand-watering?

 

[bonecarver_OG]

guys be carefull with aditives that early

Ata XL is not a necesary aditive growing with canna coco nutes - i learnt that the hard way.. there is a higher risk of salt build up and over nuting.

Ok, so no need to tweak PH with that formula if hand-watering?

no man that IS NOT WHAT I WROTE hehe

what i mean is i never ever in my whole life of growing in coco have bothered about the drain water PH really...

you make sure you water with that PH u are adjusting to, and thats it.

 

[jws0007]

Thanks Bone... In a coupla days I'll post some pics..

0007

 

[repuk]

guys be carefull with aditives that early

Ata XL is not a necesary aditive growing with canna coco nutes - i learnt that the hard way.. there is a higher risk of salt build up and over nuting.

What do you mean? using Canna Coco brand A+B nutes? or any brand A+B nutes? (I'm using Atami's A+B) I checked Atami's Coco Growing Schedule and followed them... though they also advise to use atazyme regularly.

Ouch! I just noticed XL is not advised until 3d week...

I saw you advise Biomagno nutes for coco, do you know where to get them in our country/region (S. Spain)??

no man that IS NOT WHAT I WROTE hehe

what i mean is i never ever in my whole life of growing in coco have bothered about the drain water PH really...

you make sure you water with that PH u are adjusting to, and thats it.

Ok!

 

[bonecarver_OG]

i think you might get in touch directly with biomagno thru his webpage (just google it )and order by mail. the guy is 100% reliable! italian activist

i allways use Canna Coco nutes after ahving some tremendous problems using the guuidlines - for example of hesi witch was the first brand i used also in coco. anyway i love canna coco nutes because of their simplicity. they also have a lot of different aditives - but using A+B plus a bit of PK13-14 is all you need - the rst of the products are more or less just watered out nutes anyway with some organic aditives. all in all i simplyfy and just mix a small porcentage of normal potting soil to the coco.

the biological aditives for veg etc are usually just things that have something that boosts the bacterial flora of the coco, besides the small dosage of nutes.

using very sparingly they obviously dont do harm - but then again i think the results are pretty similar with or without, just spending less money NOT buying those things.

atazyme is an enzymatic product suposed to clean the coco or soil from salt buildup. now thats pretty much BS if you ask me - i think the salt build up risk gets higher using too much products and in the end its contra productice - it all just makes more flushing necesary.

my recomendation is to go easy with the products, and have less worries with problems in general.

many times i dont even ad PH down now, since i use a mix of distilled water and tapwater, that with the nutes goes to an acceptable ph.

the problem with ph down and the strongly alkaline lime loaded water we have here is that a lot is necesary and in the end the EC gets so high the nutes hardly can be taken up by the plant. so instead i use a bit of distilled water, and also fresh clean rain water when i can.

for example, nutes, ph down, and aditives, all in all is a load to big for the plant to swallow.

i rather give a bit of occasional extra of CO2 .. that atleast works 100% effective and wont harm the plants..

peace

 

[ChaosX]

bonecraver -> Thanks for reply mate

I forgot to tell you, that I'm going to grow Diesel Ryder, so I have only 9 weeks from seed to harvest. That's why I was thinking about using PK13-14 only two weeks.

I replaced PowerZyme by RootComplex. I haven't got money for everything.

If you're telling that Bat Guano is too strong I don't wanna it anymore.

I got one question yet - should I use ripen in coco?

For today I got:
Hesi Coco 5l
Hesi PK13/14 1l
Hesi Root Complex 0,5l
Hesi Super Vit 50ml

what yet can I take?

ChaosX

 

[repuk]

i think you might get in touch directly with biomagno thru his webpage (just google it )and order by mail. the guy is 100% reliable! italian activist

Ok!

i allways use Canna Coco nutes after ahving some tremendous problems using the guuidlines - for example of hesi witch was the first brand i used also in coco. anyway i love canna coco nutes because of their simplicity. they also have a lot of different aditives - but using A+B plus a bit of PK13-14 is all you need - the rst of the products are more or less just watered out nutes anyway with some organic aditives. all in all i simplyfy and just mix a small porcentage of normal potting soil to the coco.

the biological aditives for veg etc are usually just things that have something that boosts the bacterial flora of the coco, besides the small dosage of nutes.

using very sparingly they obviously dont do harm - but then again i think the results are pretty similar with or without, just spending less money NOT buying those things.

I get it less is more! I just supposed that being all products from Atami it would be sort of "compatible" with their coco A+B nutes. As I've already bought it I'll just use it more sparingly than advised...

atazyme is an enzymatic product suposed to clean the coco or soil from salt buildup. now thats pretty much BS if you ask me - i think the salt build up risk gets higher using too much products and in the end its contra productice - it all just makes more flushing necesary.

my recomendation is to go easy with the products, and have less worries with problems in general.

I see... again less is better. I see you use rhizotonic, which are in your experience the minimal worthy additives in addition to A+B and PK13-14?

My only concern is I would like to stay as biological as possible, taste being one of my most valued qualities.

many times i dont even ad PH down now, since i use a mix of distilled water and tapwater, that with the nutes goes to an acceptable ph.

the problem with ph down and the strongly alkaline lime loaded water we have here is that a lot is necesary and in the end the EC gets so high the nutes hardly can be taken up by the plant. so instead i use a bit of distilled water, and also fresh clean rain water when i can.

for example, nutes, ph down, and aditives, all in all is a load to big for the plant to swallow.

I understand... I feared this, but got an EC meter yesterday, calibrated it and was puzzled when measured my tap water... 0.27! (Seville) I made the nutes (this time w/o ATA XL) for the older plants and using the Atami advised dosage EC was spot on. Then for the seedlings and again EC was spot on, even with the PH-.

I noticed something... my tap water is 7.7-8; I was using table vinegar as PH- before... I kept some nute solution (not runoff), measured it the next day and PH was completely screwed up just as if I wouldn't have added any PH-.

I think is very possible, specialy in coco, that acetic acid evaporates thus providing very poor buffering for the PH.

i rather give a bit of occasional extra of CO2 .. that atleast works 100% effective and wont harm the plants..

peace

You mean in tablets in the nute solution?

BTW regarding my "problems" I noticed my PH meter was badly calibrated (my fault, almost 1.5 more PH). So I'm afraid my previous feedings were too acidic.

 

[bonecarver_OG]

chaos - i personally dont think a product like ripen has any benefit what so ever. i recomen NOT using it!

what you have is enough - just use that!

repuk - i dont even use rhizotonic anymore or anything else than jsut A+B and a bit of PK in flower..

vinegar is a bad phdown and works just for a few minutes - same goes with lemon juice etc. only phdown that works ok is the chemical ones. they work as suposed to. there is no organik option with quality.

it has nothing to do with the buffering - hehehehe coco is ACIDIC with a PH of 6 normally - and not much is really needed to work with it as long as you MAKE SURE TO WATER WITH ADJUSTED PH.

whan i talk about CO2 i talk about GAS. the tabs are bullshit too i think i cant see how they can be effective at all. CO2 gets taken up by the leaf - not the roots.

so a normal gasheater will do wonders - this is what is used in any comercial greenhouse in winter! it works like a charm. a small amount of butane burnt releases an enormous amount of CO2...

with ur tapwater - i would jsut ad a bit of distilled water and see how the ph gets when the nutes are mixed in - chances are you will get an acceptable ph and wont need phdown - and thus getting even lower EC, by the distilled water, and the lack of acids.

peace all!!

 

[repuk]

repuk - i dont even use rhizotonic anymore or anything else than jsut A+B and a bit of PK in flower..

I've been following this and other coco threads for days... I'm going nuts!

Could you please revisit the base "procedures" for a no-thrills, sucessful coco experience?

AFAIHR (please correct me if I'm wrong)

From seed:

1.- Seed: straight to coco, keep good humidity until it sprouts (cover pot/cup with film). Just PH'ed water, no nutes.

2.- 1st leaves pair: 1/4 dosage A+B. Water daily.

3.- 2nd week (2nd/3d real leaves pair) Vendor advised A+B dosage. EC 1-1.2? then slowly increment A+B each week?

4.- Some PK13-14 when put on flowering? on the 2nd week from 12/12? once a week? every other week?

From clone:

See you don't even use Clonex, but a propagator made from a distilled water container, root 'em on rockwool, do you use straight PH'ed water, and mist them with rizhotonic? (dosage??)

Once rooted (4-6 days) you put 'em in coco, then start feeding them A+B as usual, EC?

How often do you advise to flush?

vinegar is a bad phdown and works just for a few minutes - same goes with lemon juice etc. only phdown that works ok is the chemical ones. they work as suposed to. there is no organik option with quality.

it has nothing to do with the buffering - hehehehe coco is ACIDIC with a PH of 6 normally - and not much is really needed to work with it as long as you MAKE SURE TO WATER WITH ADJUSTED PH.

great...

whan i talk about CO2 i talk about GAS. the tabs are bullshit too i think i cant see how they can be effective at all. CO2 gets taken up by the leaf - not the roots.

so a normal gasheater will do wonders - this is what is used in any comercial greenhouse in winter! it works like a charm. a small amount of butane burnt releases an enormous amount of CO2...

I guess that's only worth if all other parameters are optimized and just in flowering? I happen to have a CO2 tank (as a silent compressor source for airbrushing, optics/electronics cleaning) etc.

with ur tapwater - i would jsut ad a bit of distilled water and see how the ph gets when the nutes are mixed in - chances are you will get an acceptable ph and wont need phdown - and thus getting even lower EC, by the distilled water, and the lack of acids.

peace all!!

Thanks for the tip, will try that. That means the A+B dosage can be higher for a given EC, i.e. if advised EC for a certain stage is 1.8 and that means 2mlA + 2mlB, when using distilled/tap water (provided the PH is right w/o adding PH-) to reach those same 1.8EC maybe 3mlA + 3mlB could be used?

In other words, is EC what counts in order to "burn" from overfeeding??

thanks!