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The CannaBunker Begins

CannaBunkerMan

Enormous Member
Veteran
Bunker, mad respect brother. its like you took the idea out of my head & used it at your place. only difference is have been thinkin aboot a garage bunker underneath a new 3 bay garage. same exact principle. i can appreciate the hard work you done being in the GC world. i just need to buck up & buy a place. i just cant seem to let go of the convenience of being able to pack up & hall ass if needed. Well done bro, well done.

That would be a great way to do it, just build a full basement to your garage. If you don't have a garage, you kill two birds with one stone. The additional cost of doing that shouldn't be too painful. I've parked a skidsteer on top of this, so I'm pretty sure a it can handle a car. After the slab hardens, the weight is distributed over the walls. With a larger area you might need ot look into iron support beams. You'd probably need 2 support beams for a 3 car garage, no more than 8' span unsupported.

Fun fun fun!
 

Rowdy420

Member
Nice work on the door, I really like how solid it looks and of course it's gotta have the mover!

You start posting robots doing the work for you and I'll have to wear some depends so I don't shit myself! Technology IS COOL!

Great pictures, keep em coming please!

Good luck, peace
 

CannaBunkerMan

Enormous Member
Veteran
Damn, I just wrote a few paragraphs about this set, but lost it.

1 - open
2 - closed
3 - open
4 - closed
5 - closed, CO2 machine!

Not quite as nice, but at least it keeps the pace going.

There are two garage door springs that are constantly trying to keep the door closed. The 3rd and 4th pictures show how this works. The garage door spring is lagged into the ceiling joist. The other end of the spring is attached a reducing pulley. This will make the door open at half the normal tension to the opener. The other pulley changes the direction of pull to be mostly perpindicular to the door's plane.

The springs, a wire, and two pulleys hold the door closed. A different wire is connected to the opener trolley, then runs around a set of pulleys to redirect the force to a vector opposite to that of the springs holding the door closed. In other words, the other wire pulls on the door handle to open the door. The springs close the door.

The last picture has a shot of my CAP CO2 generator. I didn't run gas into the room until much later on.
 

CannaBunkerMan

Enormous Member
Veteran
The force from the garage door cable needs to be redirected a few times to bring itself inline with the door, and out of the way as much as possible. You can see 3 of the 4 pulleys involved with this in the 2nd picture. The last picture shows this 4th pulley.

The last pulley is missing a few bearings and needs to be replaced. That's why it looks crooked.

Like the painted ceiling joists? I actually painted them today.

WELCOME TO THE PRESENT!

 

TommytheCat

Member
I'm so jealous.. I'm still stuck in cabs. Dude this is epic. I'm not even saying epic because its ''cool'', it truly is EPIC. Amazing work.
 

CannaBunkerMan

Enormous Member
Veteran
Here are some random shots that didn't really fit anywhere else. The 1st picture is of the 1st and 2nd hydro systems working in tandem. I needed another few sites to be under my 2 new HPS lamps.

The door goes into the mother veg area.

The 3rd picture shows my fuzzy logic center. It controls the CO2, but it used to control HVAC too. Now my ac is on 240, so that wouldn't work.

I had to tear out the shelves in this room... I'm not even sure if I took pictures of it before I tore it out again. I replaced the veg buckets with 6" sewer pipe. It gave me a lit more room to work with. If the King of Rust takes space from me, I make up for it with sensible planning and execution.

 

CannaBunkerMan

Enormous Member
Veteran
To you guys, it must seem like I'm tossing the buckets before I've even given them a chance.

When I went from 4 to 6 lights, it got to the point where I couldn't tend to the plants in the far center. I couldn't get under them to thin them out. I wanted something that I could just roll underneath on a car dolly to work on the undercarriage. Sweeping before the tubes was impossible. I had to wait until after harvest for that, and it still required some gymnastics and heavy lifting to clean the area. It's too bad, since I finally found some bulkhead fittings for the buckets that were worth a damn. They were $20 a pop for 1" pvc bulkheads, but they can handle as much torque as you can dish out. I had previously used "Uniseals" on the buckets, and I was living in leakyville. I repeat, "Uniseals" do NOT work with thin walled buckets. All buckets are thin walled. If you notice in one of the future pictures, you'll see that I reused the uniseals on the 6" PVC. A piece of crap product all of a sudden worked like a charm. Two different applications of the same product yielded vastly different results.

I have 12' lengths of 6" thick-walled PVC sewer pipe. I used a 2 3/4" hole saw to cut the holes for the 3" net pots. Cut a little small, or you'll wish you did. They fit great, and will lock in place if you give them a whack. Each netpot has a feeder line that inserted into the netpot for direct feeding.

There are several huge advantages using the sewer pipe over the buckets, beyone what I've already mentioned.

1st, all of the water in the pipes is above the reservoir level. This allows the drain pipe to feed directly back into the reservoir, instead of a catch basin, to later be pumped back into the res.

2nd, cleaning is a snap. A ramrod 6" sponge with one rubber end cap off, pretend I'm an elephant making whoopie for a while, then it's squeaky clean.

3rd, The drain hose attachments can slide out of the uniseal bulkhead drains to clear any root clogs. My smaller bucket system clogged ALL OF THE TIME. I could never tell which bucket was clogged.

4th, There are vastly fewer parts to break in the new setup. Everything is connected using standard brass 5/8" garden hose adaptors, which call all be reused if new hose lengths are needed.

Everything else was just training wheels up until this point. I can't wait to see how this one produces.


 

CannaBunkerMan

Enormous Member
Veteran
I decided to leave about a foot of sewer pipe inbetween the last plant and the drain, to allow for some root mass to build up. Each 12' length of pipe has 12 sites, each fed by a 1/8" black vinyl tubing. The water feeding manifold has a standard garden hose male adapter at the end. A 1/3 HP utility pump is used to feed all 48 sites in the flower room. It's on a 30 second on, 1 hour off cycle.

The 3rd picture shows how I push the feed line into the net pot before seating it in the sewer pipe.

The 3rd and 4th images are another, "out with the old" photos. The 2 arrays of black buckets were in my veg room, but I decided to replace them with the 6" PVC as well.

On a side note, I think I've mentioned, building WHILE growing is not so much fun.

 

CannaBunkerMan

Enormous Member
Veteran
Here's a shot of the new mother/veg room. It all fit together like it was meant to be. That usually means less work in the future. I've already changed out the water feeding manifolds. I tried to cut a corner, and get a 2 for one deal, (take a close look). It ended up working for all but the last 3 feeding sites on each manifold. I figure there was more volume with all feeding lines combined than in the hose feeding it. I remade the feed manifolds so that each length of pipe had its own manifold.

I also replaced all of the shop light T-12 flourescents with 3 x T-5 grow quad fixtures. More electricity, more light, more betterer.

 

TommytheCat

Member
''You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to CannaBunkerMan again.''

I cannot believe how fast this is coming together.
 

CannaBunkerMan

Enormous Member
Veteran
I'm really happy with the plumbing on this setup. The white pieces with the hoses attached, plug directly into the rubber uniseal gasket. You can pull them out and plug them back in easily, and reliably with no leaking. The black hoses are the drain lines, and the red are the feed lines that go to the feeding manifold.

Another problem that I ran into was that I had originally used low rated jack chain for the tubes. I was wondering why the chain was "bouncy" under weight, and then... well, I knew, and it landed on the ground. Plus one vote for the heavier pvc. The actual reason that I went with the heavier 6" pvc was that it came in longer lengths. 10' normal, 14' blue.

 

Suspect

Active member
Veteran
Nice bunker and NICE Patio! Im a park gardener and building with stones all summer, ain't it fun? :)
 

Rowdy420

Member
When I'm lacking motivation or feeling lazy I'm going to visit your thread to kick my ass back into shape!

LOL, I just thew away a bunch of 4" tubes that I had arranged in a stadium style grow, recently just switched to all trays. Hope these work out well for you, I'm sure the 6" ones have a bit more space in em.

It is fun to see the progress so fast, got to make you feel good to have come so far!

Alright, lets see a canopy shot!

Good luck, peace
 
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