Take a look...What's happening here? Thanks in advance!

[ElGallo97]

SOIL:

How long has this problem been going on?
- 2 weeks (started beginning of stretch)

What STRAIN are you growing?
- Narpal (Doc Bush Seeds)

What was the establishing technique? (seed or clone?)
- Clone

What is the age of your plants?
- approximately 6 months (long veg)

How Tall are the plants?
- approximately 24" tall

What PHASE (seedling, vegetative or flower) are the plants in?
- Flower 2 weeks into stretch

What Technique are you using? (SOG, SCROG etc)
- topped roughly 3 times during veg, then lollipopped, root pruned before transplant (8 days ago)

What size pots are you using? (Include how many subjects to pot)
- 7" top diameter, 5" bottom diameter, 6.5" tall, roughly 2 liters? 1 per pot

What substrate/medium are you using? What brand of soil mixture are you using?(percentage of perlite, vermiculite...etc?)
- Soil in pots is around 6 TBS High Phosphorous Bat Guano with added perlite plus 6 gallons of soil comprised of the following mixture (made in tub, around 14 gallons total)..... 7.5 gal Ocean Forest, 4.5 gal Light Warrior, 2 gal Happy Frog, 7.5 TBS Dolemite Lime, 1-2 TBS powdered kelp, 7.5 cups Earthworm Castings, 6 TBS granular Mychorrizae

What Nutrient's are you using?How much of each with how much water? How Often? *Knowing the brand is very helpful*
- At start of flower...Pure Blend Pro Grow (for N during stretch) Recommended 1TBS/gallon for transition period per label directions, other than that just filtered water and Cal-Mag Plus @ 1tsp/gallon

What is the TDS/EC/PPM of your nutrients used?
- N/A for nutrients but water used starts at 13ppm

What is the pH of the "RUN-OFF"?
- N/A

What method of pH test was administered? Using Strips? pH pen?
- Hanna pH and temp meter

How often are you watering?
- roughly every 3-4 days, sometimes an auto-waterer has to be set up with filtered water and Cal-Mag plus, This past week an auto-waterer was setup and 125ml of water with Cal-Mag-Plus was given per bean for 5 days

When was your last feeding and how often are you feeding?
- Only fed Pure Blend Pro Grow so far, see above

What size bulb are you using?
- (1) 600W Hortilux Enhanced Spectrum Super HPS (LU600S/HTL/EN)

What is the distance to the canopy?
- approximately 12"

What is your RH Factor? (Relative Humidity)
- 45% RH

What is the canopy temperature?
- Approximately 71-73F (Night), 78-79F (Day)

What is the Day/Night Temp? (Include fluctuation range)
- Approximately 71-73F (Night), 78-79F (Day)

What is the current Air Flow? (cfm etc.)
- Substantial air movement, don't know exact cfm's, sealed light in cool-tube along with separate exhaust in cab

Is the fan blowing directly at plants?
- yes, at canopy level and non-direct air at floor level

Is the grow substrate constantly wet or moist?
- No

Is your water HARD or SOFT?
- Soft, TDS = 13ppm, water used is recondensed moisture from AC that flows into 40 gal tub for re-use (been using this method for extensive time perod with no problems)

What water are you using? Reverse Osmosis (RO)? Tap? Bottled? Well water? Distilled? Mineral Water?
- See above

Has plant been recently pruned, cloned or pinched?
- Root pruned 1 week ago then transplanted, topped during veg (see above)

Have any pest chemicals been used? If so what and when?
- No

Are plant's infected with pest's?
- No



OK, Any help is greatly appreciated. This is happening towards the top and parts of the upper middle of the Narpal. The bottom shows no sign of this deficiency. Genetically different peppers show no signs of trouble and are unaffected. This is the first time this issue has been observed. Peppers looked healthy (for the majority of veg, see pH below) during the long veg but there is concern as to the location of the problem. Is it wrong to assume that the issue stems from the immobility of growth elements, hence the location of the deficiency? Approximately 10% of the pepper is currently affected.

Here's another concern: pH meter was discovered to be approximately .7 units higher than standard calibration requirement. For example, a ph reading of 6.5 water was administered. In actuality, the pH of the water was really 5.8. The inaccuracy of the pH readings were assumed to be gradual. This issue has been corrected now for 31 days. Other peppers of different genetic origin seem to be thriving in same soil mix with same time period in said mix.

Could this issue be related to Potassium levels? The location of the problem seems to portray otherwise. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[ElGallo97]

Beginning stages...

Beginning stages...

Here's what the leaves look like right before onset. Just seems like slight burn and then in a matter of 7 days look like the pics above. Thanks in advance!

Anyone? Bueller?

 

[ElGallo97]

Anyone have an opinion of what could be going on here? The help is greatly appreciated!

Almost forgot...the feeding schedule is as follows:

Veg: Cal-Mag Plus-1tsp/gallon, Liquid Karma-1tsp/gallon, Maxicrop-3/4 cap full/gallon, Molasses-1tsp/gallon, Pure Blend Pro Grow- 1tsp/gallon every 4th or 5th watering

Bloom: same as above except Pure Blend Pro Grow-same amount, same frequency

 

[SCF]

looks like some sort of burn. Id say Nitrogen burn. Maybe take it down a notch with the nutes. but this problem can be a lack nutrients as well, being nutrient lock out, or just a straight Ph issue. But sounds like you got your PH in balance.
Now that you have adjusted your PH, they might be absorbing more nutrients. ...

 

[ElGallo97]

Thanks for the reply SCF! The Narpal are growing in soil, not hydro.

What substrate/medium are you using? What brand of soil mixture are you using?(percentage of perlite, vermiculite...etc?)
- Soil in pots is around 6 TBS High Phosphorous Bat Guano with added perlite plus 6 gallons of soil comprised of the following mixture (made in tub, around 14 gallons total)..... 7.5 gal Ocean Forest, 4.5 gal Light Warrior, 2 gal Happy Frog, 7.5 TBS Dolemite Lime, 1-2 TBS powdered kelp, 7.5 cups Earthworm Castings, 6 TBS granular Mychorrizae

These Narpals SEEM to be heavy feeders but I've always read that giving more nutes to offset problems is a no-no.

Do you think that Potassium could be the culprit given that the deficiencies are at the top of the pepper? I'm at a loss because potassium is a mobile element but it kinda looks like a potassium deficiency.

Thanks again for the reply!

 

[SCF]

Yes its possible you have burned with the guano. All those soils you added from fox farm is loaded with nutrients for at least 3 to 4 weeks. Although you have to mix in your nutrients i understand. This is where teas come in handy. So you can control the feeding.

But honestly 6 tbs of bat guano to 6 gallons wont make that much of a difference. Even if you did burn it, leaching out the soil is not going to help you. Just give plain water till things clear up.

It very well could be the genetics you are working with are just sensitive to a particular nute and or ph... some plants are very picky. I'm not familiar with the strain you are mentioning so i can not be of assistance in that area.

I still say some sort of nitrogen burn.. Nitrogen is mobile so it can travel and effect different parts of the plant. Good luck. Hope you get some more responses.

 

[Suby]

I saw your post in organics and followed it here dude

There are a few things I'm seing than when combined gives your outcome.

Your using RO water or very close to it, when combined with soil nutrients plus the nutrients your adding via PBPro you having ph problems, first off with organic soil you'll prefer a harder source of water, around 200-300 ppms.
The calcium and magnesium in harder water will help buffer ph better, plus RO water has a stronger dissolution potential than harder water so nutes are made more vailable too quickly which brings me to your second problem, you skipped dolomite lime.

Dolomite is essential IMO with organic soil to keep soil ph buffered towards the 7 range, everything you are feeding is acidic so there's little there except the natural buffering of the peat to balance the soil ph. You can tell there is a ph problem because your stems are purple and your leaves aren't green enough IMO to suggest N burn and the soils you used are pretty balanced NPK wise and micro wise.

Lay off the nutes during veg when using a rich soil mix, PBPro is a stand alone fert, if you use it with a soil mix that is rich then you need to go VERY sparingly.
Also CalMag can cause problems because it is calcium and magenesium nitrate thus very high in N, use dolomite instead.

That's just MY take, SCF suggests something very similar and God knows he is a VERY good grower whose filled this forum with great advice

 

[SCF]

I saw your post in organics and followed it here dude

There are a few things I'm seing than when combined gives your outcome.

Your using RO water or very close to it, when combined with soil nutrients plus the nutrients your adding via PBPro you having ph problems, first off with organic soil you'll prefer a harder source of water, around 200-300 ppms.
The calcium and magnesium in harder water will help buffer ph better, plus RO water has a stronger dissolution potential than harder water so nutes are made more vailable too quickly which brings me to your second problem, you skipped dolomite lime.

Dolomite is essential IMO with organic soil to keep soil ph buffered towards the 7 range, everything you are feeding is acidic so there's little there except the natural buffering of the peat to balance the soil ph. You can tell there is a ph problem because your stems are purple and your leaves aren't green enough IMO to suggest N burn and the soils you used are pretty balanced NPK wise and micro wise.

Lay off the nutes during veg when using a rich soil mix, PBPro is a stand alone fert, if you use it with a soil mix that is rich then you need to go VERY sparingly.
Also CalMag can cause problems because it is calcium and magenesium nitrate thus very high in N, use dolomite instead.

That's just MY take, SCF suggests something very similar and God knows he is a VERY good grower whose filled this forum with great advice

Yeah distilled water.. forgot about that good call bro. And thanks for those compliments...

Distilled water has very low PPM.. This causing a HUGE FLUX in PH when you add something it will change the PH dramatically.. When you have PPM, or weight in your water, this will cause a buffing effect, being less of a fluctuation in PH....pointed out by Suby .. There is actually a Hydro Equation for this.. On OG... Less PPM.. More PH Flux.. More PPM, Less PH flux. Obvoisly there is a balance somewhere..

Way good call Suby.. You're a damn great grower yourself.

 

[ElGallo97]

SCF/Suby,

Thanks so much for the replies! I forgot to mention that every watering is pH'ed to 6.5 before giving to the peppers.

As I am still reading to catch up on The Organic Fanatic Collective, am I to understand that dolemite lime should be used instead of Cal-Mag Plus and water with a higher cal/mag ratio (maybe non-chlorinated tap water?) is to be used?

I understand what y'all are saying about the nutrient rich soil and adding more nutes. That will stop. Teas will be used sparingly to feed. Can an EWC tea still be used as a regular watering or should the EWC just be top-dressed? I guess the real question is what concentration of EWC is most readily absorbed, tea or top-dressed?

Thanks so much for the help, it is greatly appreciated! Take care.