TAG - Landing (Resource for True Aero Growing)

[Guest]

I think our buddy AeRoGaNiC was on the lamb with no grow so he was sitting out. We hope to have him around real soon. :smile:

JAT - Yeah, I agree. I decided that I couldn't ignore the superior growth and bud development that the XLS foggers produces, they do a very good job of hitting that mark of the 50µ. And now that I'm using the DM1 that is all clear it doesn't seem like it will be such an issue.

A lot of my clogging problems were probably Liquid Karma, which I still have a whole new container of, so I've decided to drop it from the line up and see if the new aeroring works any better. So far so good, the one really nice thing is now that I understand the balance and tricks to the trade I can't hear my pump at all now outside the room again.

I'm running the pump under the water level and with about 45 XLS foggers and 8 Toros (just to let the air escape the line and feed the back of the ring. This seems to allow the pump to trigger and begin fogging with hardly any noise at all, just a low hushed purr and lots of ubermist!

DM makes a product for that hermi problem called 'Reverse', but like you said JAT...I just use good genetics and avoid carrying any defective girls. Unfortunately for Purple there, as he didn't have Hermie..just males in the outside garden. I always work from proven moms first and only the strongest of those lines.

Oh as far as the ppms go..well JAT, I mixed it up pretty much on the mark, a little fudging at the end to hit the ph, but I ended up close to their stated ppms of 1000-1200 for the 3rd Week of Flower. I actually ended up around 1050 I think with their mix at the end.

Are you making sure to mix it as per 2.5 gallons? Those ml measurements are for a 2.5 gallon sample so you have to divid it down. I ended up with something like (if memory serves me correctly): 44 ml of Flower, 6 ml of Potash, 4 ml of Max but I ended up adding just a tad more Flower to ph to 5.8 where it didn't move for a few more mls, so I figured that was 'the' mark for my RO system. (It seems to me that when you find the right balance the ph in water wont move for a range that is ideal...just a weird thing I have noticed) Believe it or not, I used a syringe to make my sample up using a 1 gallon container, this gave me my Flower at 600 ppms, the addition of the Potash bumped it about 100 ppms (so that is my mark for that) and then the addition of the Max took it to 1050 ppms at a ph of like 5.4 so I tapped it with a little more Potash (about 2 ml) and then it hit 5.9 where I tapped again with about 1-3 ml of Flower and it hit 5.8 and didn't move. The ppms were 1180 (probably could push to an even 1200) but thought that a good mark as I had some residual RO in the rig from the wet test. We'll see with lights on in about 20 minutes where we are today.

Their measurements never go above 1400 ppms so I'm thinking they have engineered it to be between 800 and 1400 max for veg or flowering, unless it can be pushed more in heavy flower. So I just left mine at the 1180 mark for now as it is the first 'true' DM1 schedule I've run, we'll see how they respond, but looking at the fact that the ratios are in balance they probably don't need any more than that at this time (my plants aren't that big yet).

I obviously don't know the top limit on this product yet, but I would say that as their own recommendations aren't above 1400 ever it is probably not necessary to exceed that before the 5th week of flowering IMHO.

 

[Guest]

5 Weeks 2 Go!

5 Weeks 2 Go!

Update:

Lights on found the ph at 5.9 and the ppms at 940...hmmm....

So I added more Flower, Max, Pot to 1190 currently and can't get it off 5.8 in either direction, so I'm establishing that as my ph mark for DM1.

Sorry for the crappie looking images, but I'm under the 1K HPS now, so it all goes to shit. lol

The new Skywalker rig w/ HPS, new 10 gallon res for DM1 and pump assembly and the unknown mom.



The RhinoxBlues



Not looking too shabby and my roots are starting to frizz out Today marks day 21 of flowering (3rd weeks ends today). Temps are still holding midday at: 68F/68F 56% humidity I'm happy. :smile: That is one blower, one 1K and no evapPod, just good circulation and effective balance as the loop is almost a complete circle now.

8 hours later...

I just checked the nutes an the Ph was up to 5.9 again and the ppms were down to 1110, I've lost 80 ppms in 8 hours. On average (if this bore out) that would be 240 ppms a day that might have to be added to maintain the ph and ppm levels. All I've been doing is adding a capful of Flower to have it hit 5.8 again stable and strong. I am thinking I could just put the Flower, Max, Pot mix on a doser and hook it to a TDS controller to maintain the TDS range, the PH would maintain with Ph Down solution and that should cover except the addition of RO. I haven't figured that one out yet as the res water levels drop every cycle.

I might point out my personal observation on the DM1 series here:

My DM1 Dosing adjustments:

1st, if you need just to elevate the ppms the Max doesn't seem to effect the ph at all just adds P/K (booster)

2nd if you need to ph down and ppms are low just add Grow/Flower ONE as it has the highest acid and stable ppms mixture.

3rd if you need to ph up, and ppms are down just add Potash Plus as it is very base and brings the ph to 5.8 on the dot as well.

4th if you need to ph up but ppms are high enough or too high, straight RO obviously.

5th if you need to ph down and ppms are high or enough, Ph down only.

I've not really had to use the Ph down yet as I've been able to lock on to 5.8 fairly steady with just the ONE series. I believe if I had some silica in there or seaweed extract it might further stablize the ph but the .1 flux isn't a big deal. Not like Botanicare where I'd see 4.3 the next morning. The ONE is obviously heavily chelated, but they are still sucking the hell out of the available nutes right now. But this is how I throttle my pod to bust out the bitches! lol If anyone has any advice or comments, let's discuss yeah?

Oh and too funny...

Though this is probably tempting fate in some way I have to share this 'grower's' story with you all.

I had my closest friend currently over for pizza and to get high and hang out as we have been for the past 2 years. While we are sitting around shooting the shit smoking some AK-47 :wink: I tell my buddy how I'm going to buy some acreage and set up my own little compound and just mention off the cuff that I could grow some pot plants so I didn't have to buy it anymore...to which he responded, "What makes you think you can grow pot plants?" It was all I could do from chuckling out loud as I just wryly grinned from ear 2 ear thinking of The WonderTwins, Vader and Skywalker all running right above his head for the past year. And here I think the FEDs and Cops are watching my place 24/7...

I figure if my best friends, family and neighbors have no idea maybe I could relax a little bit on the paranoia. However, I remain ever vigilant of course. But I was amazed to myself that I've been able to keep my mouth shut for so long with such awesome plants just feet away from those that think they know everything. My secret life, I enjoy it so.

 

[Guest]

That's a good quality to have Pod, being such tight lipped like that. No raging toga parties at your place then I take it?

Your plants are lookin good buddy...5 short weeks and you're golden

 

[Guest]

Yeah, I know people well enough to know, they think you grow you can give it to them for free...cause it cost you nothing. Yeah..right? And no, no Toga parties anymore..dim were my younger years...I'm approaching 40 now...time to settle in and enjoy the little things in life. :smile:

It gives me a degree of comfort and oddly a superhero personae having my 'alterego' here on the threads and in my garden. I'm perfect for being a DOA as I enjoy the isolation and trust noone as life has repeatedly beat the shit out of me learning. I know very well now to bite my tounge, though I still share more info than I should about growing just because I love doing it so now and more so enjoy my little pods.

Skywalker is doing an awesome job, my temps don't get above 68 now and currently are as low in the root zone as 62 just from the blower. My AC is set at 71..lol. I attribute this to the venting chanel I installed earlier, apparently the blower is pulling the air through or somehow dropping the over all temps inside the pod to below that of the air in the room and chilling it down a few degrees as well. The res water is very cold to the touch. It will be interesting to see how they respond.



I have to say, I peeked at the roots and they are just getting all frizzy...I'm not shooting them currently as I think the flash kills about a billion AM every flash. I'll wait until we are closer to harvest to see what has gone on. JAT's roots should be getting pretty monsterous by now.

I've figured out I could make a long bench cloner/vegger TAG style...I'm sort of working on that now. I found a few cheap dia pumps that can run continuously...though they really could just cycle with Skywalker for cloning and vegging. The spacing can be 6" on center and just a line of about 7 feet ...I'll post shots when I start to get it together.

Where the hell is brianV.? lol My man should be running a Twin Tower nightmare by now.. I feel like I've lost some racers lately? Where has everyone driven off too?

 

[JustATry]

PR - sounds like you are battling the same dilema as I am, how to maximize the grow without wasting veg time. I am thinking I could pickup another 120 site EZ Cloner and use the two of them to switch between clone/veg cycles. I could be pulling new clones every couple of weeks and letting them go straight into flowering in the TAG tables.

Shit is getting crazy now - these fuckers drank almost 5 gallons of water in 24 hours. Even when I grew in my tubes I didn't see that much water being inhaled in 24 hours.

You can see how things are starting to take off. This is 1 week of flowering. All the girls have been trimmed and top'ed at this point.




Here is what I was refering to earlier. Don't know if this is the start of nute burn or what. It's only on the older fan leaves and not on the new growth.

 

[Guest]

I was initially going to say slight overfertilization with some wind or light damage, but not completely sure. You don't seem to have any more purple stems, so it might just be wind burn. It depends on a number of factors and as I was looking for an example I stumbled upon this little article that pretty much puts it all into a nice little package...so, I'm so horrible, don't hate me for stealing but I'm just going to post this here as it is just too fuckin' informative...it comes from:

http://www.growell.co.uk/pr/46/Talking_to_Your_Plants_Part_1:_Body_Language.html

Looking at the plant as a whole

Look at the general color and look of the plant Stand back and have a general look at the plant as a whole. Does it look normal? It should be a fairly even color - a nice vibrant shiny green and not too dark. The plants leaves should be a good size and fall nice and flat perpendicular to the light, and not pointing up or drooping down too much. Does the plant look relaxed and happy or tense and curled up? If you are having problems the first thing to do is back the light off a few inches, or a foot or two, this will take the pressure off the plant and help the plant recover while you evaluate any other causes.

Is the plant growing every day Under intense conditions its hard to keep everything perfect. As long as the plant is fairly healthy and growing every day then things aren't too bad. As the plant gets bigger it will cope better with intense light conditions.

Look at new shoot growth The new shoot growth is always the best indication of what is happening at any particular time. If new shoots are growing well and looking healthy then this might indicate any previous problems have now been overcome.

Is there any color loss. Top, middle or bottom of the plant Color loss across areas of the plant may be caused by many things; overfeeding, causing nutrient deficiencies and color loss over the whole plant, along with rust spots and small leaves. The first signs of overfeeding are dark green leaves that curl or hook downward at the tips as the plant tries to retain moisture; underfeeding, causing color loss across the whole plant followed by nutrient deficiencies. Lack of main elements will show at the bottom of the plant first and move up, this is because the main three elements (N,P,K,) are mobile and will be transported from these positions to the tops where they are needed. Deficiencies in micro elements like iron, calcium and magnesium will show at the new shoots as inter-veinal color loss as they cannot be borrowed internally from other leaves and are not mobile elements.

Other reasons for color loss include cold nights, bleaching from the light being too close, wind burn, and too warm a nutrient solution causing lack of oxygen to the root for nutrient uptake. This will make the plant look droopy, grow very slowly and eventually develop color loss and deficiencies. Over transpiration of the leaf from being too close to the light will show initially as a subtle loss of surface sheen followed by yellowing and rust spots a couple of weeks after the initial damage was done. These leaves will slowly die as the stomata are damaged and the leaf can no longer function properly.

Is there any leaf droop Its often hard to avoid a bit of leaf droop during the latter part of an 18 hour light cycle using big lights, particularly in pots where the oxygen take up is limited or in hydro systems if the nutrient is getting a bit warm as the light cycle goes on. Protect your nutrient temperature. 18 hours of optimum light is very demanding especially on young plants but as they get bigger they can deal with the light and heat better, it is important to keep the plant healthy until on the 12-hour cycle where the larger plant and shorter light cycle will make better use of lower lamp heights and more intense conditions.

Leaf loss With fast growing light loving plants it is quite normal to lose some of the bottom larger leaves as the plant gets bigger. They will normally gradually lose their color first. These leaves are not getting much light any more and the plant will discard them for leaves nearer the light that can produce more energy.

Growth patterns These are largely inbuilt into the plant genetics but can be quite largely affected by the growing conditions, environment and plant diet. Some plants are naturally short and bushy, others are tall and sparsely branched. Apart from the breeding, sparsely branched and stretched looking plants could be due to not enough light or too much light and heat from the light source. So is the light too close or not close enough? Its your call, work it out. Look for other signs like upward leaf curl indicating the leaf is trying to retain moisture. In this case maybe the light is too close and too hot causing this curl. (Note: Plants can cope better with intense high light levels better in a good hydroponic system where there is lots of water and oxygen, the plants can transpire and control their body temperature more easily and efficiently. In pots under optimum light the plant cannot perform as efficiently and the light may need to be slightly farther away.)

A closer look at leaves

- leaf size Leaf size is important. Leaves may generally be bigger under sodium lights and slightly smaller under fluorescent and halide lights. If leaves generally appear too small it may also be an indication that you are close to overfeeding, check leaf color to confirm. Large leaves are a good thing.

- Leaf colour A shiny vibrant green, not to dark, is what we're looking for. Too dark and dull are symptoms of overfeeding.

- Leaf shape The shape of the leaf depends largely on the genetics, although if the blades look a little narrow, lacking in color and not reaching a good size or shape the may be a main element deficiency. Increase feed strength slightly. Twisting and mutating of new leaves is either unstable genetics, lack of silicon or more commonly excess chlorine. De-chlorinate your tap water for at least 12 hours before use.

- Yellowing of leaf tips This is common and hard to avoid, as long as there are no other associated symptoms it may just be a bit of light wind burn.

- Leaf tip curl down When leaves curl at the tips and margins the plant is trying to retain moisture. When they curl down this is usually an indication of overfeeding, the feed is too strong on the outside of the root membrane so through reverse osmosis water passes from inside the plant across the root membrane to water down the strong solution outside the plant, it does this in an attempt to even out the pressure on both side of the root membrane.

- Leaf tip curl up When leaves curl at the tips and margins the plant is trying to retain moisture. When they up this is would be due to an environmental problem rather than a nutrient problem. This could either be due to wind burn, or the lights to close, or not enough air exchange or a combination of all three. I may well be the light is too close for the stage of growth, size of plant or specific variety. Some plants are more sensitive than others.

- Leaf margin curl Curling down is more associated with problems in the root zone, usually overfeeding (check for curling down leaf tip and other symptoms). It could also be temperature or oxygen problems in the root zone. Curling up margins are more associated with environmental problems and would be caused by the same problems as leaf tip curl up.

- Over transpiration damage Transpiration damage on leaves is caused by too much light and heat. In its attempts to keep cool the plant over transpires moisture from its. In this case the leaf may immediately look a bit blotchy and have lost it shiny, thick, smooth green look for a few days and then start to loose color generally and especially between the leaf veins where rusty spots start to appear. These later symptoms of color loss, rusty spots and general leaf damage usually show themselves a couple of weeks after the damage has been done, a few inches under the fresh shoots, indicating it was a bit hot or the light was a little close for a while a couple of weeks ago. The bigger the plant gets the easier it can deal with the light and heat. Always check new growth and move the light away a few inches if you're in doubt. This condition is often mistaken as a nutrient deficiency, which are actually quite rare and 90% of all leaf damage and rust spotting is environmental not nutritional. I thought this was very interesting.

- Wind burn This is a common problem in the summer when using oscillating fans indoors, you have to be careful not to blow too hard on the top surface of the leaf where there is a lot of light or you can draw too much moisture from the leaf and it will at first start to curl up at the tip and margins slightly in an attempt to retain moisture. Then the leaf will lose color and start to die back a golden brown color from the leaf tip. The dead part will soon become brittle and crispy. Aim you fans away slightly or more directly at the lamp.

- Main element leaf deficiency symptoms Potassium deficiency is common and will show first as a yellowing of the larger leaves from the tips and margins inward towards the main leaf vein. Nitrogen deficiency shows first on the larger lower leaves as a yellowing of the tips spreading evenly back towards the leaf stem. Phosphorus deficiency is common too and will give a dark purple tinge to your larger green leaves, it will also cause purpling of the stems. These are main elements and therefore mobile elements, meaning your new shoots are one of the last parts of the plant to be affected, enabling you to rectify the deficiency before it seriously affects the plant.

- Micro element deficiency symptoms All essential micro elements like iron, calcium, magnesium, etc are all non-mobile elements. This means these elements once initially sited cannot move around the plant to where they are needed like Nitrogen. Instead deficiencies in the micro elements will initially show at the new shoots and leaves and not on older or bigger leaves.

- Colour loss on old large leaves This is very normal. These big leaves are the main engines of the plant, when the plant gets bigger they will fall off and often lose color first. These leaves are no longer getting enough light, the plant will replace them with up and coming leaves nearer the light source and grow them into big leaf light catching engines to replace the old ones which now use more energy than they produce.

- Purple stems This is usually associated with a Phosphorus deficiency, check for purpling of the leaves. It can also be caused by cold or just normal plant genetics.

Roots
- Damping off This often affects young plants in propagators where the environment is too wet and humid, and the air is still. The bottom of the stem goes soft and watery looking, this may be the start of stem rot.

- healthy roots If you are in a hydroponic system check your roots regularly making sure they look reasonably white and healthy and growing to a reasonable size. If in doubt or in pots use products like Sensi Zym, Hygrozyme or Voodoo Juice to increase root mass and products like Trichoderma and Guardian Angel to protect the roots zone from infection.

- Slight Browning of the root surface This is hard to avoid especially during the latter part of a plant's cycle. Slight browning may be caused by chilled roots from turning solution off where roots are totally exposed like in NFT system. Any more than a bit of browning here and there may indicate you have some root disease.

- Pythium and other root diseases If your roots come apart when gentle pulled, are all sloppy and off color you probably have pythium or some other root disease. You can protect yourself from the offset by inoculating your young plantlets with Trichoderma Powder which is a beneficial fungi. These beneficial mould and fungi treatments will prevent any other pathogen from taking hold in the root zone and also stimulate the roots. Enzyme products like Hygrozyme and Sensi Zym also help prevent infection by bolstering the root zone and significantly increasing root mass. If you already have a disease problem use Bio-Sept, Guardian Angel or ultimately a Vecton UV Sterilizer unit.

JAT - Can you post your nutrient regime so we can see what you were doing up to this point? And are you using the Dehumidifier? You might want to increase the humidity slightly (the Evap cooler) ...this is where removing part of the equation without balancing might be causing an environmental imbalance for the plants. Like I often remind others, the plants' number one job is to balance the environment...they are symbiotic, so any leeching that isn't compensated via higher levels elsewhere there is most likely a deficiency to be.

Now for myself, I've just checked my girls and they look to be doing even better in just 24 hours. I've already got trichs on my leaves..lol Is that normal for 21 days?

 

[JustATry]

I think windburn could be my culprit. I have 4 fans going 24/7 and have noticed some abrasions on leaves that were rubbing together a lot, kinda like a calous. Maybe I will need to relocate my fans, possibly invert them from the ceiling.

I am going to switch over to the flower formula today so I will write everything down in detail. I have been running the grow and P+ for the last couple of weeks to help out the ones I put in a little late.

Oh, and no I haven't been using the dehumidifier. The RH has been holding constant between 45-52%.

 

[Guest]

That sounds good. I figured it was probably a K lock out and some wind issues as the leaves look dull and not shiny as they get when they are really happy. I have the same issue I think, now that I've read that article. I'm always so paranoid of temps, which have not crested 70F yet and I just turned off the lights...yes! So I can kill the blower at night as well. I aim my blower to move the air just above the tops so they just lightly move. The vortex I've created does all the rest...but all this time with tip burn might just be light saturation and wind burn... I need a light meter.

It shows you just how much is involved in creating and maintaining life in an environment. There are just so many variables and elements to juggle to get it all right and Earth does it everyday without even thinking—that is truly a miracle.

Eventually we'll get it all figured out. I really found that information very useful, hopefully others will as well.

Now I did fuck up my plants moving them over and bounced my ph and ppms a bit over the past couple days so they aren't the happiest, but they are recovering. They don't appear to be N def at all, P def completely still and what looks like K def, so I'm thinking I need higher P/K maybe it is time for me to boost?

Here are some pics..even roots, though I said I wouldn't I couldn't help it.








My favorite..lol, the more mature Rhinos are enjoying the mix a lot more than the Cinns and bubbles as they are still too young to fully enjoy the high ppms. The one Cinn is starting to get with the program as I can see new thick shoots, but I'm still seeing mad Phosphorus deficency, which I've read about...I'm jus not sure how to counter it. My thinking is possibly to just mix to 1050 and then everything else is straight P for down, or the elevated P/K levels, but concerned of lockout. They look droopy to me, overfert, and heavily transpired. We'll have to see tomorrow with the fan off tonight if that helps. I want to do a foliar feeding, but not sure if it is too late. DM1 guide says, 'up till the 4th week of flower' I'm starting the beginning now of the 4th week and have flowers...can I still foliar or just skip it? Never done it so all the advice from ProFoliar Growers Unit! And inform me please.

 

[candy-2kw]

I've successfully foliar fed at 6 weeks with Dark Energy.

I found the easiest way to do it (and most time consuming) was to put on some latex gloves, and use your hand to shield the flowers, taking care to focus the spray on the leaves themselves. In the event some overspray got on the flowers, I simply/gently shook them off. My plants typically absorbed it quick anyways.

 

[Guest]

Good advice. I'll have to play around with it, as I have few actual leaves I can reach I could experiment on a few to see what they do.

I've also come to a new conclusion thinking about the P/K issue...duh. It dawned on me the answer is in the MAX. I forgot that the Max didn't adjust the ph, just added ppms. I think maybe that is the trick is to run the base line at 600 with Flower and Potash+ then use MAX all the way to 1200 or 1400 ppms. As it appears I'm suffering constantly from P and K defs with no real N def sighted...I'll just boost them up in P/K with max advantage and see if that doesn't knock out the red stems and K def I keep seeing. Not the use of Ph down (P only). Until I see a N or Ca lockout there shouldn't be any issue with upping the K, the tip burn (if not wind would only benefit from more K) and as mentioned, until I see actual yellowing from N def, I can pretty much lift my P/K as high as I want as long as the Ph stays stable.

This occurs to me as it is hard to overfert on P and the only problem with too high an organic or non-chelated K would be the N lockout that would occur. I don't see any N def, so I think the answer is to start boosting in week 3 rather than 4 and 5. Just to start the climb.

I read an article lately that stated that P values need to be much higher in Cannabis than previously thought and that high levels of K actually decrease the production of THC in the buds (odd huh).

It went on to state that the level of P uptake during flower was supposedly higher than that of the K, which recent findings found needed to be much greater (1:9) than N which was previously thought to be the main constituent for growth. If this is true, possibly even higher levels of P are neccessary (as my red stems demonstrate) so the increased level of P wont hurt either. My only concern has been the Ph drop due to using just Phosphoric acid, but the MAX is balanced with the K so that the Ph remains neutral. I'm just wondering if the 4:9 ration of P:K is effective or if additional P is required? But P usually works outside the system, sort of like it does for us. Our ATP operates on P but it isn't a 'nutrient' for us.

On much thought I'll try elevating the P:K ratios using a new mix of DM1. The nice thing is this new res is only like 10 gallons, so I can easily throw out any bad batch of nutes. I like that better than 40..lol.


Does any of this make sense?

 

[candy-2kw]

I suppose that it would have been easier for me to do it beings as how my girls were in 5 gallon buckets that I could pull out individually, and man-handle as needed.

 

[Guest]

Yeah, I feel like I need either a bridge or some sort of MI wire fighting rig to hang my ass a foot over my tables like that movie Coma (if you are old enough to remember...lol).

My poor girls are just so rushed they have hardly any leaves running after clones and trimming. But now I could just use a paint brush or Qtip and 'zone in' for a 1/2 hour. They're aren't that many. :smile:

 

[candy-2kw]

haha... I thought my way seemed tedious

 

[candy-2kw]

Can I ask why you run such a small res??

 

[Guest]

Mainly for convenience and mostly just by design. Most my original designs had DWC elements as you know, which are advantageous, but somewhat unnecessary. Most my designs are based on the idea of run off into a collecting pond then draining to a res as a method to simulate natural rainfall and drainage. The roots are designed to dry slightly, so I think that is a important feature. When all is said and done each cycle only throws about (40 1.8 + 6 2.0 = 84 gph/60 = 1.4/2 = 0.7 gallons per cycle.) So I don't really need much more than enough to make sure the intake doesn't run dry pumping 7/10th of a gallon out every 3 minutes.

The res I used for Skywalker is just a 12 gallon tote I think...just worked out that it took much less than the 20 gallons of RO I drew up...a lot less, but it will still drink through it. I am going to need to rig a valve to make sure the water continues to feed during heavy flower as it will pull it down to nothing.

The main purpose, however, is just to check nutes and ph and add fert, another additional res can be added to supply even more nutrient solution easy enough.

These are always just 'check stations' for me. It seems to be working well for the 4x5 footprint of Skywalker, Vader needed at least 20 to operate effectively.

You just basically don't need that much water with TAG, its the nice relief from DWC with superior growth rates. The only way to fly!

PS Happy Halloween all!

 

[JustATry]

PR - interesting thoughts on the MAX. I will have to play around with that. Those BBxWR's are looking good too. Pretty impressive for three weeks thus far.

Well, I moved my fans around and did a rez change following DM's recipe.

20 gallons of RO @ 0 ppm
880 ml of DM One Flower (44ml/gal) 1400 PPM
120 ml of Potash+ (6ml/gal) + 200 PPM
So right now I am sitting @ 1600 PPM w/ a pH of 5.6 - no adjusting needed. Haven't added any MAX yet. I want to let this run overnight and see what happens in the morning. I wonder why my PPM's are so much higher than yours PR? Are you following the same regime?

I mounted all my fans on the ceiling so they are moreso just circulating air versus blowing on my ladies. You can see the difference in the stance of the leaves, most are pointing up @ a 45 degree angle. I would say they are happy now. And I am almost positive the leaves I posted lastnight were windburn. A couple more days and I should know if the symptoms don't reoccur.

 

[Guest]

I agree, I think we'll both see we can go higher. I'm not sure why your ppms are so much higher than my own. That is odd. You really shouldn't be anywhere near 1400 from the inital dose of DM1 Flower, that seems really high to me. It should set you around 600-800 ppms which would be your base limit.

See how it runs however and if it doesn't seem like they are ok with the higher amounts you could always just mix it to the ratios you want. You know the basic signature we are looking for here... Flower1 600-800, Pot 100-200-, Max to whatever level you want. The Max is the PK booster so don't think of the Pot+ as that. It is just there for the tremendous K consumption and Ca. balancing I believe.

I'm going to push it with the MAX to see what happens, I'll know by the stems for sure. My lights come on in about an hour I can see how a night with no wind worked out. I actually found that my temps are dropping to like 62 overnight...maybe the res is getting too cold. Purple stems are sign of that as well. I have always had better results staying in the 70's, mid 70's for room temps for sure.

But, yeah JAT looks like they were just overly transpiring from the wind and possible heat. They still look excellent however, they'll perform well for you.

That was sort of a point I was making about Evaporative cooling..it cools the air for you as well it balances the transpiration with the plants. I find my humidity is lower with the evapod running than without it as I think the plants set the standard. If the lights are suckin' all the moisture out of the air and the fans and the plants there isn't enough to balance the air in the room...they are all too dehydrated. I'm a little more fortunate living in south Florida where it is alway hot, humid and muggy. I just open a window and we are soaked with moisture. But adding some back in through evaporative cooling might help keep those girls upright and perky. IMO

 

[Guest]

Alright! Damn it!

JAT I stand corrected... you were correct, where the hell I got 600 ppms from (I must have decided that was the way I was mixing it) but here is the legit shit.



The First ONE was 1470 ppms (*like yours), K+ 1480, MAX 1780 ppms at ph of 5.3. So you are correct. I think I'll try this mix straight as stated to see what happens, they have been responding beautifully to the DM1 so far.

And as stated... One blower...lol only running during lights on now.



Gotta love that!

 

[Guest]

I love going advanced...lol

I love going advanced...lol

Now some shots of the girls, no?



The lovely Rhinos..not doing too poorly for 22 days...



Here is a nice Above and Below shot. This is the sort of documentation I was talking about earlier JAT. This RhinoxBlue I've followed since rooting so now I can put together a timeline of almost daily growth documenting just this one plant as it grows so I can see when the different stages take place to better 'shift' my gears and ratios to get the best acceleration.



Here I can watch the root structure and the RhinoXblue.

Meanwhile...my Cinnamons are being so queer. The one is taking forever to flower...I mean, she is just now showing pistils...but has much better development of vegetation (I might need clones). Her sis meanwhile I trying out for cheerleading practice. :smile: Go Team SkyWalker!



And that mystery mom..she is loving the DM1 Bigtime!
She looks like a HOG to me..what say you JAT?



And we still have another 4 weeks of flowering to go...

 

[JustATry]

You had me all freaked out thinking I was going to fry my girls @ 1600! lol

You are looking good man! I would agree that the 'unknown' lady is HOG. She looks that way to me.