TAG - Landing (Resource for True Aero Growing)

[Guest]

With aero I've found that actually being a little lower is the best mark seriously. The issue with the Ca in TAG is that the K is eaten in such great quantities that the ph drops drastically overnight. That is why I would have a ph in the morning with organic nutrients of 4.6.

At that ph the Ca, Fe and Sulfur are all locked out no doubt, as well as Mg. It wouldn't be from the elevated levels of K locking it out as much as the 'lack of K' that would allow the drop in ph to unusable levels. That was the issue.

Now with the DM One series the Ca is 'locked In' so it can't be locked out and the K levels are at the perfect ratio not to interfere with the Ca and Fe and Mg uptake. That is their trick, they all have chelated versions as well as freely available versions in the same mix. So with the proper ratios the plants just suck up the nutes and I'll tell you ...they look great!

I like a PH of 5.6 to 5.4 the latter actually having a better effect on P uptake. But you'll find it hard to maintain your ph during heavy growth without a shit load of K (which you can use as Ph up) Your levels will always drop, you wont see a rise in ph ever...the K never builds up...that was the clue to me.

You have to balance the ratios or the plants will eat all of just one nutrient and cause a huge imbalance in the water. Like eating all the frosting off the cake first..and then not wanting the cake. Someone has to eat it now..but no one wants it.

The DM ONE is a powerbar of complex highly compacted nutrient time release designed for heavy consumption of K. That is why they are going to be the Aeroponic leader, they put some thought into it.

I mean I totally understand their logic and it is very sound, if the actual chemicals themselves are to the purity they express. The ONE (literally) is the ONE...it has the perfect balance for TAG so far.

That was the huge problem I found as I went from Ionic (synthetic) to BC (organic) where the organics just get evaporated they are eaten so fast. Everyday I was adding Ph up (K) ...every fuckin' day... so...not a build up for sure. I'd say Def def def for sure.

Like I stated on the Skunk 1# you will see the Ca. lock out (but due to ph drops not K) and then K def (which everyone thinks is 'burn') But you can't really burn plants with K, they are made of it. I mean, you can't soak in ph up...duh, but Nitrogen seems to be the only 'scorching' nutrient I've found to date.

High P only gets you dark dark leaves and wilting, high K I don't think I've ever really witnessed, High Fe again...dark dark green... Defs are usually Yellow in color (Warning) or red (alert) where as burns are usually brown (toast) or black (rot) The color theory is as transparent a manifold as anything in the Ærocanna, you should know this by now. Look deeper, you'll find even more connections and answers.



Warning signs!

Remember:

nitrogen--(N)--which promotes general plant growth
phosphorus--(P)--which promotes flowering
potassium--(K)--which promotes strong roots.

A quick piece on elevated K in flowering.

http://www.gardenhere.com/advice/Flowers.shtm

The main thing to remember is that N and K are antagonistic. They balance each other as acid and base, nitro for the breaking apart of elements and potassium for building the the pot or home, pod. Too much blasting...you burn it all to the ground, too much sugar laying around attracts pests and disease as its just gushing with sap to be sucked by aphids. Perfect balance...perfect resistance. The burn is a salt burn like the opposite of an acid burn, bases burn just as bad if not worse than acids the extreme of any spectrum is very toxic to most organic materials. We like everything right in the middle and balance to a neutral point (us ph 7) where our system is exerting the least amount of Energy to stay in motion. It would make sense plants would enjoy a slightly more acid environment as they are breaking apart element and reassembling them like welding with acid. That is why our stomachs are full of a acid. A healthy stomach has an acidity level (pH) between 1-2, that is around one million times more acid than pure water.

However fast you need to breakdown atomic structures the more heat you need, either starlight or chemical... fusion and fission are hard to manage for organic systems...chemicals they can handle, barely.

 

[Purpleseed]

A good point about Floranova is that ph is extremely stable.Once or twice during the entire grow I have to adjust.This is probably the result of high organic content.

I was reading a post on GH vs AN. Interesting.
While a couple of people stated they reached the 2 pounds per 1000k with AN,GH seems to be a little behind....It is mainly attributed to the living colony of ANirahana,voodoo juice,tarantula....

It would be interesting to compare popular basic nutes(A+B,or one part)with the addition of AN living colonys to AN basic nutes.I'm sure it will only help any other brand,sounds like the roots are really getting off with those.

Other very important factor I'm concerned with,the heavy fruiting phase nute regiment.I think the stretch part I got mostly covered in simplicity.Hydroguard,LK,Cal-Mag and Canna vega in conjunction with Floranova(Any good N base nutes would probably do the job,I like the fact that my roots are white for at least 3 weeks before I had FN that's tainting the roots!):

Week 1:100% Canna Vega
Week 2:75% CV 25% FN
week 3:50% 50%
week 4:25% CV 75% FN
week5 100% FN

It becomes tricky for me when the first shot of pk13-14 is added as the ph goes down dramatically.One week from there,everything seems ok.From week 3,5 (ph drift) to week 4,5-5 .After that,first twisting leafs appear(side of leafs).


From that point,all kinds of little imperfections appear.Ca defiency,tip of leaf twisting,extremely dark leafs that look like they are thickning(too much P?)

There is something I must figure out at that very moment.So it's something I should change at week 4.Backup on pk13-14?Backup on Floranova and had a K additive?....The answer is near...I'm tempted by the use of Floralicious or Big Bud...

 

[Dutchgrown]

Dutchgrown - Were you and Gypsy using the Dutch Master Original formulae?

I just read this article, still looking for a feeding schedule from the company (can't find shit for support on this product still), and it appears there is a 65% increase overall from competitors.

Probably so, as it was in Aug-Dec 2003. We were supplied with all their products to try out because Gypsy was contemplating taking on the distributorship of this product for this company. Their closest reps were located in the UK, and the product was not available via retail outlets in Holland.

Here's some of what we were supplied with:

We had soil and hydro going, so the reps from DM worked out a formula to apply to both soil and hydro (and the formula was quite a bit different for each)...sorry, I don't even have that info any longer.

However, I believe....if not mistaken....that the products we used are the ones which DM had to take off the market. I am 'guessing' that their new products have been changed to not include a known carcinogen causing substance?

Many folks were claiming fantastic results, and I'm sure many did. Just didn't work for us, and we went exactly according to the formula provided us for the test grow.

Thanks,
dg

 

[Guest]

Well some very interesting developments I'm seeing today as I work on Vader. I've installed a EvapPod to attempt some evaporative cooling of my res and room using the exhaust light. The humidity has gone up to 68% and the room temps as well as the res have gone up to 78F The res matches the room within 2 degrees now.



The water feels cool and the air coming out is cool, but I have no movement in the room for air yet so it is stagnant and humid. I'm working on that.

Now the interesting thing was my ph today was UP not down for the first time ever! lol No more K def... So I actually had to add P which...as I see the red still slowly fading from the stems is probably needed in a slightly higher concentration currently. Once balanced that will probably stop.

The ph should be extremely stable in the ONE as most of it is chelated and balanced for precisely that reason. My ph by the way was 6.2 and the ppms had risen as well too 1400 as it is balancing I think.

The water has become mucky with tons of what looks like bacterial growth...the humic acids seems to be creating their own little life rafts in the res...nothing slimy or gunky...just a thick looking darkwater...my guess is the dead root cells being cleared off by the AMbac. So they can be crystal clear and white and puffy again.

The RhinoxBlue we've been following with all the original red stems...







The Bubbliscious is just loving this shit...I'm not joking. lol

 

[Guest]

The plants haven't looked better...



I think its a good thing they reformulated it. I would think that the issue was the elevated levels of Molybdenum which in higher concentrations are toxic to ruminant animals (Any of various hoofed, even-toed, usually horned mammals of the suborder Ruminantia, such as cattle, sheep, goats, deer, and giraffes, characteristically having a stomach divided into four compartments and chewing a cud consisting of regurgitated, partially digested food.).

Molybdenum dusts and molybdenum compounds, such as molybdenum trioxide and water-soluble molybdates, may have slight toxicities if inhaled or ingested orally. Laboratory tests suggest, compared to many heavy metals, that molybdenum is of relatively low toxicity. Acute toxicity in humans is unlikely because the dose required would be exceptionally large. There is the potential for molybdenum exposure in mining and refining operations, as well as the chemical industry, but to date, no instance of harm from this exposure has been reported. Though water-soluble molybdenum compounds can have a slight toxicity, those that are insoluble, such as the lubricant molybdenum disulfide, are considered to be nontoxic.

However, environmental chains of events can end in serious molybdenum-related health consequences. In 1996, an increase in acid rain near Uppsala, Sweden caused a depletion in the natural foods of moose in nearby rural areas. This caused the moose to venture into the fields of oat farmers who had been heavily liming their soil to compensate for the effect of the acid. The lime caused changes to the levels of cadmium and other trace metals in the soil, causing the oat crops to uptake trace molybdenum in large quantities. Ingestion of the oats by hundreds of moose brought on a severe disturbance in the ratio of molybdenum to copper in their livers, which caused emaciation, hair discoloration, ulcers, diarrhea, convulsions, blindness, osteoporosis and finally heart failure.

OSHA regulation specify that maximum exposure in a 8 hour day, 40 hour week to molybdenum be 15 milligrams per cubic meter. NIOSH recommended exposure limit is 5000 mg per cubic meter.

Now let's see if this works.

2 days ago



Today


Or maybe:
Before/After







If you can see the red shift? I see them all day so I can see the shift, but it has only been about 36 hours and only 16 balanced.

By the way, a point 2B made here. This is what I do when I'm on a thread, especially my own, I work and research and study and learn..it is what I get off on. I don't see how this makes me an asshole or someone to be pursued as some sort of egotist. I have done this exact sort of daily observation and conjecture for over 2 years now exclusively in aero and this is why I respond to questions with authority or certainty as I have heuristic experience and documentation on an almost daily routine.

I don't post information about how to grow based on other people's threads or information like Lothar or Krusty or BOG — I post my own, that I studied, that I grew myself and dealt with the problems and the issues and I solved them. When I tell someone something it is only because I have myself encountered and conquered it myself more than once.

Not saying I should not be doubted or questioned, I'm merely stating that I don't understand the hate that comes my way when I'm only speaking from my own personal experience that anyone can go back and read from day one. Literally there is a grower's diary by R2G on OG of every single step of the way from bio-buckets to Ultra TAG and I discuss, demonstrate...illustrate and support every single issue, item, thought, discovery or postulate.

Before someone starts to take me down a peg because I talk like I know what the hell I'm talking about rather than providing pictures from someone else's grow or just bullshit I read I think they should seriously read the book. Its all there, I swore I wouldn't argue root zones ever again in my life after posting my successes. Not a dick, if you can show me better, more lush, healthier roots God damn it I want you to throw it down and show me how you did it and how I'm wrong. If you are that educated and experienced a grower I would think you'd have no problem putting your shit where your mouth is, I will any day. That make me a dick? Or just authentic? I have an attitude? Have you had to defend your established proof 48 times in the same thread? Answered the same assaults of shit talking tell me I don't know shit about growing and this is why...with no proof of their own? Or anyone else's?

I spent 2 years sharing my daily practice and research and knowledge freely. Is it really too much to expect just a little common decency? Really? How much shit do I have to eat before I get to be the asshole in the room, as I have the shit to back up my puckered lips. But no, if I answer someone's cry for help I myself am hunted down and assaulted almost monthly, I'd be flattered if it wasn't so freakin' annoying. I'm not going to apologize for being the healthiest clone that may take most the light, I'm the one most are using for shade so they can relax and not grow so hard themselves...I think its an even trade, even if I own nothing and gain nothing but companionship while stranded on my giant space ship Earth. Horrible to be alone on such a big ass ship and so much hate for such a scared and immature race of beings. I suppose its all necessary to maintain genetic superiority over the other 99% of life fighting for the right to go on.

However, regardless of whether I like people or not I do desire to be near souls that vibrate close to my own frequency as this does sooth my lonely soul who has been longing to return to the light ever since it was born into this world. I do hope my work continues to live far beyond my own life, which is really of no serious consequence to me. The birth of TAG is my gift, I suppose I hope all would receive it with warmth and enthusiasm in the spirit in-which it was offered. It is hard to accept having someone spit in your face for handing them a gift. I don't think anyone should have to endure that at any time, especially repeatedly and with such disdain. How invincible do I have to be? How powerful must I become? How perfect does it have to be? For you 2B happy and allow others Room2Grow. :wink:

Now, let's get back to work and have some fun along the way....ok? :smile:

 

[Purpleseed]

Went in the flo room to find out ph is at 5!
Just when I'm saying that it is very stable!
My guess is since I backed off on PPM 100 point per week for the last 3 weeks,it made it easier for the plants to consume K.Or simply,since the plant's general consumption has a falling curve at the end,it helped the osmotic pressure and they started feeding even more.Now that tells me I should back off on Floranova sooner then I thought.Like starting at 5th week instead of 6th(running 9 weeks).
They are nice looking fat nuggets but I feel I can double that with adequate feeding schedule.They did'nt grow that much the last 2 weeks,they only got denser.
I have a nute quest in front of me.

So your still running at high PPM POD and no signs of burn ??

 

[Guest]

Yep...still holding at 1400 now and you can see the pictures yourself...they look the best yet. There will be a bit of trauma as it will take a couple days to balance the P def, but when I ph'd it fell right on 5.6 without difficulty and remained there for about another 1/4 teaspoon of 1 ph PhosAcid. I have the medical grade like 90% so I dilute it and it takes very little to rocket to 3. I haven't bought Ph Down in 2 years..and I still have 3/4 of a bottle. Best $17 I ever spent.

Anyhow...sorry. But no, after I see them regulate and I get into the next week I'm starting to climb. I am going to see the ceiling on this if I can. I know what fucking them up with 2400 can produce, bottle sized colas. So I can imagine an actual controlled ascent.

The thing to remember with TAG (little secret) they pack most all their weight in the last two weeks of flower right before harvest. Leave them in until they are sickly fat and bloated...they will beef up like popcorn kernels. If you chop them too early, as I know you've found out I'm sure, they get airy and light.



Wait for it, wait for it...lol

What I look for more than anything is the zillion pistils...lol because each and everyone will eventually get a big fat pod around it that makes your bud.

I've seen these girls just keep pushin' the peach fuzz out for the entire ride up till the very end and when they swell...its like a bloated chic. lol (no offense girls) I think its sexy.:wink:

But now I'm fucked I think as I left my Ph meter sitting out in the room for about 2 hours and it dried out. The reading is fucked...I'm looking for my calibration powder...shit. Always something.

Room temps 82F root temps 76.9 ...If I can get my room temp down I'll be fit. The EvapPod is keeping the res temps about 5 degrees cooler than the ambient air. At 78 I'll be at 72-3ish which is fine with me.

BTW the DM Max is their heavy floral Boost. You make up your base nute and then add the Max Floral to it if you want tremendous blooms and fruits (buds). I think the Potash+ is more specifically designed for Canna, but the Max and the Potash can be used with all their line now I believe. However if you just want a solid base, that is the ONE.

I get very impressed when people put time and effort into their marketing identities and the concept of their products. Being a product designer myself, I understand that when I see that thorough an attention to detail it let's me know without effort that those individuals pay the same attention to all details.

The ONE (its a brill name) is pretty much right on the money of what I'd design myself if I had the knowledge and experience I do now. They obviously do, so I'll defer to their judgment until I find otherwise. Just like Floranova, run correctly it is one of the most powerful ferts out there, run wrong it sucks like all the rest. Sometimes there is a learning curve, like going organic. That sounded like a real Gia thing to do and a good idea, but looking at the artificial environment I've created I see the need for synthetic balance to my systems. Organic is great in evolutionary pace, but to TAG it isn't sufficient just as soil and mediums are actually an impedance to growth and potential. We have effectively removed all 'natural' and 'organic' elements down to just the basic being of plant and bac/colony. Everything else is a dialed in synthetic environmental, so it shouldn't be surprising that a purely synthetic heavily chelated ionicly balanced ratio specific nutrient is needed, don't you think?

Here again, ignorance in the face of objective truth shades the truth from the light as we attempt to follow old myths rather than take courage to see further into reality to find a solution that is not only applicable but appropriate as well.

 

[Purpleseed]

I think I will have to chop down sooner than expected.I would have let it go one more week but PM is spreading on the other table.Good thing I bought this sulphur burner but I need to plug it in quick!
It would have been nice to have more table running aside in perpetual,harvesting every 2 weeks but the sulphur burner does'nt allow that.The best I can do is every month unless I seperate the rooms but that is not space efficient.

If we were to understand perfectly the plant,I bet there might be a totally organic solution to every aspect.There is still much to be discovered.

69 th post,does that feel horny!

 

[Dutchgrown]

I think its a good thing they reformulated it. I would think that the issue was the elevated levels of Molybdenum which in higher concentrations are toxic to ruminant animals (Any of various hoofed, even-toed, usually horned mammals of the suborder Ruminantia, such as cattle, sheep, goats, deer, and giraffes, characteristically having a stomach divided into four compartments and chewing a cud consisting of regurgitated, partially digested food.).

Actually it is a substance called 'paclobutazol' in their product 'Superbud', many
stated (in various threads around the canna forums) that it was in small amounts
and wouldn't pose any sort of health issue, and those who stated that an accumulative
effect could be harmfull, and those who stated that any amount at all is too much, so it
would seem that their new product line must have addressed all those concerns.

That stuff was priced real expensive back in 2003, have they
dropped prices down since this re-formulization?

Thanks,
dg

 

[Guest]

Totally...I think its become a completely different company maybe. I remember Advanced Nutrition back about two years ago and you are correct, they were like insanely expensive. Probably thought they had the next new thing. But found it wasn't as spectacular and they did get a bad rep for being just overpriced Ionic. lol

From what I understand it is like two guy that live in Australia that were the actual PHDs on the project or company...I'm not sure...haven't really looked into it as it is old news. But from what the Hydro Guy told me, exuberant youth who is a total hydrohed, raved that they were a completely different company now and I'd have to say... even thought they still offer the Micro three part and all the others, this line is really attractive.

Like I said, when he said Dutch Masters..I said..'expensive' lol, he said no...look. And the Grow is $9 the Flower $9 The Max $9 The Potash+ (the shit for TAG) $19...the most expensive. I got everything plus LK for like $50. I was like shit...wait...lol

But until I tried it out I wanted to see how it fared in TAG first and like I said...knowing what I do now after 2 years of research and development on my own...its right on the money for today's technology on it. They are the leader right now for the one part nutrient I'd say. The mix is awesome! Its perfect...seriously my plants are like they were the first time they hit Botanicare's Power Series–just fuckin' dancin' they are so happy for the balance...I was just going to say, my Bubble boy is already showing his balls..its been like a week. lol He is getting huge and I hate to chop them, cause they are so healthy and strong. Damn. My skunk males were like that too. Right as you get their sex in aero they are just becoming like young muscle hunks...its just a shame to chop their arms and legs off and toss them in the trash or garbage disposal... That's sick, I know. But its true.

Btw...my room is balancing itself...lol I'm at 76.9 F root temps now...running all day and the room temps are just at 80F. Little more rigging.

But getting back to the DM One series...it is built to sell, what it looks like (though I do go on record here as saying I hate the use of Poser for their identity...very sophomoric) is that they hired a marketing agency or hooked up with a marketing VP that knows his shit, probably a pot smoker. lol

But the guy or gal probably hooked them up with a sweet identity package...cause its nice, very professional design on the goods. Just the design work is very 1994..a bit behind for the most Advanced..lol, but what is inside is what is important and the mix is perfect for everything I've digested for the past 2 years. It, in theory like I said, should yield far better than anything on the market and knowing the results I've experienced personally in TAG can believe the 65% increase because if you can break that K def (which if you read my OG posts for the past year has been my only issue I could not get) you'd hit a sweet spot I can't even imagine yet. But you might just get to see.

I've spent literally weeks and months working on trying to break the K def 'flip' I called it...I got that it was a def not a burn after about the first six months...but there was nothing that could break the Ca lockout, Ph drops in the 5th week, and Massive K def in late flowering..despite the forearm sized colas. The Oasis I had was drinking 2000 ppms without even showing a def or burn...they could eat at 1800 from week 2. Only the Skunks and Bubbles show like the Widows the ravages of under fed K.

If this product can indeed lock the Ca and keep the N:K ratio balanced throughout the entire grow, like I said...I can't even image at this point. It should blow my fuckin' mind..and probably will...we'll see. And all for $9 a bottle?

Up to this point Botanicare was the closest I thought I could get as their lines are on the organic side as perfect a balance as I could find in a pure source, however it takes an arsenal of products to balance your system and it still experiences the Ca lock out and K def. Those ratios obviously are critical...and The ONE hits them in every product on that line.
Worth a shot.

However...of course...my PH meter is dead and the Hydro store isn't open tomorrow...of course...christ..lol...its me...I'm a shit magnet.

Does anyone have any advice on how to jump start a dried ph meter...lol

 

[Purpleseed]

How many days you've been running it now ??
You sound like you've been growing with it for a year!!
I'm still sceptical til the end,but I do hope it is the thing!
I really want to see the end of this!
Could you throw your pod in space at light speed so we can see the results...tomorrow!!??!

It would be nice if you could right a nute profiling thread on TAG that goes as follow:
Use DM ONE and party ! :friends:

 

[Guest]

Well Einstein said, "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage -- to move in the opposite direction."

I'm just Jazzed about the possibility of solving the only remaining problem with my system that is all. I was hopeful Botanicares 2-2-5 would have fixed it, which was close...but the theory on this ONE is spot on. I just can't see where you could find a better balanced product that is hydro (more aero) specific. It tops them all as far as 'intent' to grow.

I just love to see someone with a 1/2 a brain produce (or even try to produce) something that isn't a complete pile of shit for a buck. Rarely do we get anything in life that actually works. It is worth the party if it even looks like it could do the job. 2 lbs a 1K wouldn't seem too outrageous to me and just figure you could do that every month from now on with a simple One stop drop that costs you like $20 a grow? Yeah...I'm jazzed.

 

[guineapig]

yes true science is all about "elegance".....we scientists are always looking to design experiments that are "elegant".....i guess that the POD should be designed with elegance, a beautiful combination of form and function.....-gp aesthetics

 

[Guest]

I'm working on it...give me a minute. pant pant

PS - I'm just looking at it like this...

 

[JustATry]

Anyone have a guess as to what this sludge is? It's inside my prefilter and filter. There is also some in the bottom of my tables. Maybe a bi-product, or waste matter, from the bacteria?!?!

I have never run into this using Botanicare before. So now I am curious. Doesn't really smell bad, kinda like a salamader. lol

 

[Guest]

That, I believe, is the dead root cells being decomposed by your Nbac. The LK seems to let the ONE go wild with growth all over, including the bacteria. I'm thinking of not using LK next change...that was the 'dark water' I was talking about. It makes a mess on the filters.

LK + DM + TAE = milkshake slushy.

 

[Purpleseed]

What is THAT !!!????
Have you felt and drop your chocolate pudding ?
What's the mix in your res ?

 

[guineapig]

is this an instance of when beneficial bacteria go wild?.....oh my.....there is a product that will fix that.....http://www.nutri-tech.com.au/products/homerange/life-force-king-compost.htm -gp

 

[Guest]

I don't see it as a problem as much as a nuisance. I think it is just all the 'health' in the water the Humic Acids allow the bacteria to flourish (which you want) as they are releasing Nitrogen and other amino acid chain crap.

Basically what you are seeing is the same thing that would happen on the inside of your bio-bucket or pot, however because there is no 'home' for your bio-mass it must float in a sea of mats like algae on the ocean surface.

I would make another leap of faith here and state that if you put those 'bio balls' in your res it would probably take that out of solution and give it a home to set up in and allow your bac to clear the nutrient stream for you.

They are just trying to balance your system with the new nutes. When your plants undergo a stressful change in nutrient regime they shed old root cells that aren't as effective *this is natural. The Nbac and AM start to break down those old cells to release the N and other elements back into the system for use. That is there job.

They are attempting to clear your pond of all the excess sugar basically. What is available for the pathogens the AM will try to eat first and use for the plant to protect it first trying to leave little 'loose sugar' carbos for some nice algae or rot bacteria to get its teeth into.

I've see that same sludge clear up, but I would hazard you went a little high on the LK? I only use a very small 'dash' as it feeds an aerated hyper solution of pure ionic balance. Remember, you are creating the ultimate environment for growing plants...plants of any kind and the network of bacteria and life that they support.

It is now a balance of environmental elements to make it optimal for your plants and not 'natures' assembly of the usual suspects.

JMHO. 4 what it might be worth.

I believe it is because you are using a 'Pond liner' that doesn't allow the bacteria to 'adhere' the surface of the res like plastic tubs or Hydroton.

That is the massive network of workers that if you had large buckets of hydroton or dirt would set up all over the 'rough' surface of the stone and filter all the water that went drifting by feeding on the dead or decaying matter.

You don't have hydroton or any medium to 'adhere' to and remain stationary in the 'stream' instead it is loose floating in the water until it hits your filter...where it is setting up shop, but there are too many to feed through that junction. Like I said, go to Lowe's get a bag of 'bio balls' and toss them in the res and see if it doesn't clear it up.

I don't think it is dangerous (only to clogging) as its just the AM/Nbac trying to establish those ratios for the plant by traveling with the water rather than waiting for it to 'trickle' through.

 

[JustATry]

Right now I am running PBP Grow, DMP+, LK, HG, and a little TAR. I did go a little on the heavy side for the LK, 10 mL/gal. I have noticed my rez is clouding up now after a couple of days, probably the bacteria flourishing.

I just ordered some new 5 liter jugs of the DM1 Grow/Flower, should be here on Wed.

I will just limp along with this for now a couple of more days. I might actually have to trash most of this grow and start over. Most of those clones that got crispy don't look like they are going to pull around. I am still hoping, but it doesn't look promising. So I took another 200 cuttings a couple of days ago. If they aren't ready to takeoff by the time these new cuttings are rooted I am just going to toss them all and start over.

I will grab some of those bio-balls tomorrow and see if that doesn't help. I have noticed a slime on the pond liner and just figured it was part of the solution, but it's probably the bacteria like you said.

I am actually going to switch out my "koi pond" rez (<--fucker) for a 20 gallon trash can. I have some more fittings that I am going to drill and tap the can for. That way I will have a lid too.

I found out what was tripping my breaker. I had the dehumidifier setup on the same circuit that the pump was on, that was causing the trip. So I put the dehumidifer on it's own 15A, and the pump on a new 20A. Shouldn't have any problems now unless there is a power outage.