tabacco tea as pesticide?

[chihuahuafarmer]

greetings to all
this is my first outdoor grow,new MMJ patient,my question
is can i make tabacco tea to use as a pesticide? a friend at work's wife grows a beautiful vegetable garden every year
and she puts a quality cigar(pure tabacco,no chemicals)in a jug of water and sprays the tea on her plants to kill any
pest,works good for her,but will this hurt marijuana plants?
has anybody heard of this?thank you all for any help you can provide. may your garden be healthy and your
harvest bountiful peace and love chihuahua farmer

 

[toxic_brue]

My mother used to make tobacco tea and spray it on plants to get rid of spider mites. But they were full grown cedar trees not cannabis so i dont know if it will hurt your plants.

She used to get chewing tobacco, the cheapest kind, and steep it in hot water. I dont remember the 'bacco/water ratio. Hopefully some one with more experience will chime in.

 

[chihuahuafarmer]

thanks for responding

thanks for responding

thank you very much for the reply
at least now i know that he wasn't BS'ing me
have a great grow season!!!
p.s. what do you know about ladybugs?

 

[LolaGal]

Hey Chihuahua, MJ can get tobacco mosaic virus and it will kill the plant if that happens.

spraying tobacco juice may work on houseplants or garden plants, but I would not do it cause you may infect your plants with TMV... not worth the risk.

 

[chihuahuafarmer]

THANK YOU!!!!!!

THANK YOU!!!!!!

THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH!!!(REALLY)
YOU MAY HAVE SAVED MY GARDEN,HAVE A GREAT SUMMER AND
MAY YOUR HARVEST BE EXTREMELY BOUNTIFUL

 

[LolaGal]

you are most welcome.. I have heard that there is tobacco mosaic virus in cigarettes, don't know if it is true.

 

[chihuahuafarmer]

thanks again

thanks again

thank you again,sorry to bother you BUT,how do i join
social groups on icmag? i would like to learn about the moons effect on growing i love icmag!!! never imagined
that such a great resource was availible

 

[ganjapool]

I've used it on my plants. It was a second to last resort, the last being pyrethium spray.

I don't remember the exact recipe but it was something like 10 grams of tobacco with no additives, I used american spirits.

A small chunk of dove soap as a wetting agent.

Take a few cups of water and heat on the stove, just simmer the water add the soap and tobacco, let it sit for 15 minutes.

Strain the mixture and pour into a gallon of water.

Put in a sprayer and soak down the plants.

This worked pretty well for spidermites, after 2 applications 2 days apart most were gone. I still used Dr.Doom pyrethium spray to finish them off.

 

[LolaGal]

I think you have to have 50 posts or maybe 75 to join clubs and stuff.

u better git to posting!

 

[chihuahuafarmer]

posting in progress thank you

 

[chihuahuafarmer]

thank you for the info have a great grow season

 

[thinkkush]

Nicotine is a natural poison, and yes it will definitely kill insects in the garden if dissolved into water. tobacco mosaic virus isnt too common but it is out there and has been known to attack other vegetables like tomatoes. Nicotine is most definitely not the most efficient or effective way to go about pest control but yes it does work for sure. makes you really think about what people are inhaling while smoking cigarettes

 

[danimarie193]

when i started i was broke and this is how i would get rid of mites. it works, but there are better things out there to use.

 

[LUDACRIS]

BY "STITCH"

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688

 

[pearlemae]

Tobacco mosaic can be spread just by smoking tobacco and having the smoke residue on your hands and clothes. At least thats the way it works with tomatoes. If your a tobacco user its recommended to wash your hands after smoking and before doing your "gardening". Other wise nicotine makes a great aphid/mite killer on ornamentals like roses. A teaspoon of a dish soap to act as a wetting agent. WARNING!!!!!!! DO NOT GET NICOTINE TEA ON YOUR BARE SKIN, NICOTINE IS TRANSDERMAL ( absorbs through the skin) AND ONE OF THE DEADLIEST POISONS ON THE PLANET. GOOGLE IT AND YOU'LL SEE...

 

[LUDACRIS]

BY M+E ROSE.



Predators.

Many of the insects in your garden are called beneficials, because they perform a useful service in the garden. Some of them eat decaying matter; others help in the pollination process; and some pry on insects which damage crops. Almost everyone is familiar with the ladybug, which eats aphids and insect eggs and has a voracious appetite. They are available commercially by the pint. The praying mantis eats slow-moving insects. When it first hatches, it starts out on aphids and mites. But as it grows larger, it eats bigger insects and worms. Mantis-egg cases are foam-like, straw-coloured masses which contain 100 to 300 eggs. These cases are sold commercially but can also be found in the late fall in bushy areas. Another insect which is sold commercially as a plant protector is the green or brown lacewing. It has golden eyes, looks fragile, and flies erratically. But in their larval state, lacewings eat thrips, mites, caterpillar eggs, scale, leafhopper nymphs, aphids, and mealybugs. The trichogamma wasp is an egg parasite which lays its eggs in the eggs of over 200 species of insects, including many moths and butterflies which hatch into worm pests. Cryptolaemus is used to destroy mealybugs. Adults are released when mealybugs appear in the spring. They seek out the mealybug colonies and lay their eggs. When the eggs hatch the larvae wander around the infested area and eat the young mealybugs.

The use of commercially bred or gathered predators is most feasible in large gardens or fields. The insects may not have much effect on small gardens, since they wander off to find food and may never return. Try to buy from manufacturers who intentionally do not feed their product before shipping. Hungry predators are more likely to stay and eat the pests.

Insects are just one groups of predators. Birds such as purple martins, robins, blue jays, chickadees, and even starlings and English sparrows eat large quantities of insects and other small pests. They can be attracted to the garden by placing a feeder, bird houses, and water in the area. When plants get larger, some gardeners let chickens, ducks, or geese run through the garden. In a short time, they pick it clean of pests and weeds. Reptiles and amphibians, including frogs, toads, snakes, lizards, and turtles, all eat garden pests and should be encouraged to make a home in the garden.

Homemade Repellents and Insecticides.

Another way to control garden pests is to make sprays from plants which repel insects by using a juicer or blender or by baking a tea. Ingredients can be found in most kitchens. Chile pepper, garlic, coffee, horseradish, radish, geranium, and tobacco are the usual mainstays of herbal sprays, although most strong-smelling herbs and spices have some repellent qualities. Many gardeners experiment to see what works in their garden. For instance, if an insect which bother marijuana stays clear of a nearby weed, a tea or blended spray made form that plant may control the pest. But try it on only one plant (or part of a plant) first, because the spray may also be harmful to the marijuana.

Garlic is probably the most popular ingredient for general-purpose sprays made from kitchen ingredients. A typical formula is to soak three ounces of chopped or minced garlic in a covered container of mineral oil for a day. Then, slowly add a pint of lukewarm water in which a quarter ounce of real soap (Ivory will do) has been dissolved. Stir and let stand several hours, than strain. Use as a concentrate, adding between 20 to 100 parts water to one part concentrate.

Other recipes call for boiling the garlic or for grinding or juicing it. Some brewers add other spices to the basic formula. One recipe calls for one clove garlic, three cayenne peppers, one onion, a quarts ounce of soap, and sufficient water to blend. Let it sit for three or four days before using, and use one part concentrate to 20 parts water. Homemade tobacco teas are sometimes used as insect sprays. Use one cigarette in a quart of water. Let it brew 24 hours before using.

Snails and slugs are attracted by yeast solutions, which are easily prepared from cooking yeast, sugar, and water. This is also why gardeners have success trapping these leaf munchers in bowls of stale beer. Place deep-sided containers at the soil level. The pests slide in and drown.

Gardeners should not overlook handpicking as a viable method of pest control. The foot or a quick thumb and forefinger can eliminate large numbers of pests and can keep a small garden pest-free. Collect the bugs and drop them in a tin can with some alcohol to kill them. Early morning is the best time to collect pests, since they are slower-moving until the sun warms them.

Snails, slugs, earwigs, and some other insects gather in cool, moist areas during the heat of the day. By providing just such a space in a garden, many of these pests can be located and destroyed. Place pieces of cardboard or boards around the garden; look under them each day.

Home Remedies.

Gardeners and farmers have discovered and invented ingenious ways to control insects without harming the environment. Some of the more popular ones are listed here, but there are many more, each suited to a particular situation.

Soap and water is an effective control measure for mealybugs, mites, leafhoppers (nymph stage), leaf miners, and aphids. Simply wash the plants thoroughly with a solution of two tablespoons of soap dissolved in a gallon of water. Rinse the soap off thoroughly. (Some growers feel that the addition of kerosene or alcohol makes the solution more effective, but these can harm the plants and dissolve THC.) This treatment does not eliminate all of the pests, and may need to be repeated weekly, but it does keep them under control.

Sprays are sometimes made from healthy insects, which are caught, ground up, and then sprayed back onto the plants. When the pests come in contact with the spray, they become infected with the pathogen and get sick. This method is very effective, and is considered safe, but it is not easy to capture sick insects. A variation in this technique was described in the October 1976 Organic Gardening and Farming Magazine, in which a spray was made from healthy insects. In a followup article in the May 1977 issue, the authors theorised that any population of insects contains pathogens. If enough insects are collected, some of them are sure to be sick, and they contain enough germs to spread the disease. To make an insect spray, capture about a hundred pests. (Make sure not to include any beneficial insects or the spray may also work against them.) Using a blender, mix them with a cup of spring water, strain, and dilute with enough water to spray your garden.

Whenever making or storing sprays, use a glass container. Metal or plastic ones may react with the chemicals that the liquids contain.

Another home remedy for the control of mites and aphids is a mixture consisting of a half cup of milk in four cups of wheat flour, added to five gallons of water. When it is sprayed on the undersides of the leaves, it suffocates the insects and then flakes off as it dries.

Some growers use mulches to control insects. Cedar chips repel beetles, moths, mites, and mealybugs. Aluminium foil is used for aphid and thrip control on small plants; the reflected light disorients them and they do not land on the plants. A sprinkling of cream of tartar eliminates ants, and boric acid kills roaches. Sulfur powders, available at nurseries, are used to control mites and fungus infections.

Organic Insecticides.

Pyrethrum, rotenone, and ryania are effective insecticides which come as powders (dusts) or sprays. They are concentrated form of naturally occurring plant substances, and are considered harmless to warm-blooded animals when used as directed.

Ryania, which is found in the roots of a tropical shrub, is most effective against chewing insects, worms, and larvae, which it incapacitates, rather than kills.

Rotenone is a general-purpose insecticide with little residual effect; that is, it breaks down soon after application, and is therefore one of the safest insecticides. Two or three dustings during the seedling stages afford protection against most insects and bugs.

Pyrethrum is one of the most powerful natural insecticides, and is effective against a wide range of pests. It is also relatively nontoxic to bees and ladybugs. Pyrethrums are found in the pyrethrum plant as well as in chrysanthemums. They are non-persistent, and in small doses may make the insects sick without killing them. These insecticides are available at many nurseries and may provide the surest, easiest form of protection against serious insect attack.