-
ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
Strange Slime buildup on roots
- Thread starter guice
- Start date
rr14 said:Here are the symptoms...
Here are the roots:
this stuff is over running my ladies. I have them in 10 gallon dwc rubbermaids with bubblers in them. I put a about 1/2 a ml in there for about 24 hours earlier in the week and this stuff is still going strong. Should I go crazy and nuke these suckers? What do you suggest?
res alreay has zone in it, new nutes, the res temps are about 70-72.
That first pic of the roots looks real bad. Consider those roots dead. Roots that look like that would give you limp plants like you posted pics of. If you get yellowing of the lower leaves as the plant begins to eat itself to stay alive, I would start over.
The other root pictures look like they could make a recovery if you can save them only if you are in veg at this point. If not scrap and start over.
Only use the Physan for a few hours and then flush. Then use Zone. Do not use the Physan continuously, only the Zone.
You don't need to use any more Physan then what has been stated earlier in this thread.
If all else fails, consider soil.
I tossed in some more tonight about 10 minutes ago. I'll probably let it sit in there for 12 hours or so and then flush the system a couple times. The plants are in veg right now. This is the last stand with this stuff; after this I'm going to pick up some new clones and make absolutely sure that I have no light leaks in my system.
Last edited:
nice to see this thread keeps on growing. i have been slime free 
for three months now and my plants are the best i have grown in years. thank you physan20 u are my god of sterility 
and at such a low cost. and the only thing i found it´s sucks at are small seedlings in rockwool cubes, i destroyed a nice batch of white diesel battling against a small slime attack, but i am still smiling every time i see those clean white roots see ya -- madx
for three months now and my plants are the best i have grown in years. thank you physan20 u are my god of sterility and at such a low cost. and the only thing i found it´s sucks at are small seedlings in rockwool cubes, i destroyed a nice batch of white diesel battling against a small slime attack, but i am still smiling every time i see those clean white roots see ya -- madx
I can tell you I tried just about every beneficial product out there and when the algae wanted to strike back, no beneficial was gonna stop it. Keep in mind I had everything in the arsenal to try to beat it. I own 4 water chillers that I don't even use anymore. I own so much un-needed equipment because of my nearly 2 year battle with the algae. You can say I just about tried everything. I had my rez's set at 65F and this algae was still hanging around. The colder temps keep it at bay but it is just waiting to make an all out attack.
My thoughts are once you get it you are screwed. It will not go away completely. The algae spores get everywhere and there is no sure way to get rid of them. The only thing to do is move to another grow site with all new equipment and hope you don't get it there.
I don't worry at all anymore. Feed to waste and no problems. Same site and equipment and no algae. Water chillers are collecting dust because I don't even have to worry about water temps anymore. No more chasing the pH everyday. It's great now. Mix a batch of nutes every 3rd or 4th day, feed and that's it. Two times in the room each week instead of everyday to check up. Soooooooo much easier now.
My thoughts are once you get it you are screwed. It will not go away completely. The algae spores get everywhere and there is no sure way to get rid of them. The only thing to do is move to another grow site with all new equipment and hope you don't get it there.
I don't worry at all anymore. Feed to waste and no problems. Same site and equipment and no algae. Water chillers are collecting dust because I don't even have to worry about water temps anymore. No more chasing the pH everyday. It's great now. Mix a batch of nutes every 3rd or 4th day, feed and that's it. Two times in the room each week instead of everyday to check up. Soooooooo much easier now.
Good to see thread still goin..hope ppl are getting help from it...I finished my grow and gonna chop tonight and it is the best one in two yrs or the best since I started growin,
As I,ve heard so many times before "less is more "sure is the truth.
I stopped usin Grozyme which I had always believed in but I see a big difference without it this time around.I tried some Floralicious bloom in one table and I did get a little root rot in that particular table...but nothing do any amount of damage..but nevertheless it was starting to show some gunk in the rez for that table.
Physan for cleaning equipment has been a big help IMHO...I haven,t actually used it in my plants rez.because I didn,t get any algae slime in 9 weeks of groing this crop.
So now I realize that from now on i will clean my equipment with Physan...plants my clones with little or no ferts...use my regular GH nutes..and keep off the additives in particular Grozyme.The only thing I did try this time was a root accelerator called Awesome+ which is like Bud Blood in second week of bloom and ssixth week prior to a week of flushing.I used it at half strength and had no problems.I did get some bud rot in one cola but because the rh was high b,cause my dehumidifier wasn,t working properly I guess it,s par for the course.Also this time the buds were rock hard as compared to kinda fluffy buds in past shows I have to hope that I had a successful result and I owe much of these good reults to reading this thread and following the info I took away from it....It def. has boosted my confidence level and I am relatively sure my next go-around is going to work also...
Much thanx to Richyrich who who guinea-pigged the Physan and his diligence in reporting his results.Good work to all posters who tried diff. things and I hope all the best reults for them..
jarff
As I,ve heard so many times before "less is more "sure is the truth.
I stopped usin Grozyme which I had always believed in but I see a big difference without it this time around.I tried some Floralicious bloom in one table and I did get a little root rot in that particular table...but nothing do any amount of damage..but nevertheless it was starting to show some gunk in the rez for that table.
Physan for cleaning equipment has been a big help IMHO...I haven,t actually used it in my plants rez.because I didn,t get any algae slime in 9 weeks of groing this crop.
So now I realize that from now on i will clean my equipment with Physan...plants my clones with little or no ferts...use my regular GH nutes..and keep off the additives in particular Grozyme.The only thing I did try this time was a root accelerator called Awesome+ which is like Bud Blood in second week of bloom and ssixth week prior to a week of flushing.I used it at half strength and had no problems.I did get some bud rot in one cola but because the rh was high b,cause my dehumidifier wasn,t working properly I guess it,s par for the course.Also this time the buds were rock hard as compared to kinda fluffy buds in past shows I have to hope that I had a successful result and I owe much of these good reults to reading this thread and following the info I took away from it....It def. has boosted my confidence level and I am relatively sure my next go-around is going to work also...
Much thanx to Richyrich who who guinea-pigged the Physan and his diligence in reporting his results.Good work to all posters who tried diff. things and I hope all the best reults for them..
jarff
*** as a side note...Physan can be bought for about $40 gallon on Ebay which is almost a life time supply..I hope the hydro shops don,t catch onto it or it will be put in 2 oz.containers and sold for $19.95.
A gallon will end up costing $$$$ hundreds .So stock up b,cause they will get smart to it.
peace out
jarff
A gallon will end up costing $$$$ hundreds .So stock up b,cause they will get smart to it.
peace out
jarff
jarff said:
jarff,
I use Hygrozyme (US name) every run and dont have the brown algae issues. It must be reacting with something else you are running so it may be more helpful to know what it may be reacting with to cause it? Can you list all of your base nutes and supplements?
Its Grow Time..
I found it difficult that the hygrozyme was causing me probs. but after swearing by it for a long time and using it regularly but having root rot probs. about half way thru an eight week strain,I decided to cut back at first and then to eliminate altogether and voila no more root rot.
I grow in 4x4 tables with about 12 plants and the table itself is the rez basically.I have two GH four valve pumps per table with about 8 x12" air stones as my DO source.It is basically a glorified dwc system,but with a lot of air being pumped into it.Been usin it for two yrs and it does work.I change the nutes every week in each table.Nutes are GH flora MGB.+usually AN,s Bud Blood as an accelerator in second week of flower. On past grows I used Floralicious weekly+Hygrozyme+Cal Mag+. and last three weeks was usin,GH Kool Bloom at about 3/4 strength....I discovered I was using too much MGB and getting over fert [probs.
Then about 8 months ago pretty much eliminated everything except for Grozyme for my last two grows.But was still getting root rot.so I eliminated it.I,m harvesting this week and it is my best show to date...Prior to starting this last grow I cleaned everything with Physan.
Went with three part GH flora at about 25% less then I usually feed. Using Awesome + at second week and sixth week in flower.Eliminated Kool Bloom and CalMag and only used Floraicious on one table and on that one table I did get some funky lookin shite which was turnin,to root rot,but it didn,t affect the yield any.
I realize there,s a lot of variables in my description and any number of the additives could have been the culprit,but by keeping it simple this time I had a successful venture.
Next time around I am going to try the Grozyme at about start of third week of flower in one table and hope for the best.I have heard so many good things on it I used it on a regular basis but I may have been over adding it so next time I,m gonna use it at half strength. My large volumes of air could be causing probs but it works so consistent that I like it,s performance.The ph is a steady 5.7/5.8 all the time.
I always used RO water but for the past several months I started using it with half tap water and half RO ending up with a ppm of about 100...seems to be working out great.
Most of the algae started with my clones when veggin,for about a week,then it just turned to root rot from that point.I have a lot of experimenting to do which I have time and space for so I shouldn,t condem any of the products but when you eliminate this or that and get good results one tends to think that one or more of the juice additives you were using had caused the problems.At this point I am happy with how things are progressing,and will continue with the same routine but at the same time do some experimenting with a small area of my grow area.I will eventually find a happy medium and probably learn what in fact I was doing wrong in the past....
LoL...rant over....I took too much medicine before I started writing a reply.
happy growin..
jarff
I found it difficult that the hygrozyme was causing me probs. but after swearing by it for a long time and using it regularly but having root rot probs. about half way thru an eight week strain,I decided to cut back at first and then to eliminate altogether and voila no more root rot.
I grow in 4x4 tables with about 12 plants and the table itself is the rez basically.I have two GH four valve pumps per table with about 8 x12" air stones as my DO source.It is basically a glorified dwc system,but with a lot of air being pumped into it.Been usin it for two yrs and it does work.I change the nutes every week in each table.Nutes are GH flora MGB.+usually AN,s Bud Blood as an accelerator in second week of flower. On past grows I used Floralicious weekly+Hygrozyme+Cal Mag+. and last three weeks was usin,GH Kool Bloom at about 3/4 strength....I discovered I was using too much MGB and getting over fert [probs.
Then about 8 months ago pretty much eliminated everything except for Grozyme for my last two grows.But was still getting root rot.so I eliminated it.I,m harvesting this week and it is my best show to date...Prior to starting this last grow I cleaned everything with Physan.
Went with three part GH flora at about 25% less then I usually feed. Using Awesome + at second week and sixth week in flower.Eliminated Kool Bloom and CalMag and only used Floraicious on one table and on that one table I did get some funky lookin shite which was turnin,to root rot,but it didn,t affect the yield any.
I realize there,s a lot of variables in my description and any number of the additives could have been the culprit,but by keeping it simple this time I had a successful venture.
Next time around I am going to try the Grozyme at about start of third week of flower in one table and hope for the best.I have heard so many good things on it I used it on a regular basis but I may have been over adding it so next time I,m gonna use it at half strength. My large volumes of air could be causing probs but it works so consistent that I like it,s performance.The ph is a steady 5.7/5.8 all the time.
I always used RO water but for the past several months I started using it with half tap water and half RO ending up with a ppm of about 100...seems to be working out great.
Most of the algae started with my clones when veggin,for about a week,then it just turned to root rot from that point.I have a lot of experimenting to do which I have time and space for so I shouldn,t condem any of the products but when you eliminate this or that and get good results one tends to think that one or more of the juice additives you were using had caused the problems.At this point I am happy with how things are progressing,and will continue with the same routine but at the same time do some experimenting with a small area of my grow area.I will eventually find a happy medium and probably learn what in fact I was doing wrong in the past....
LoL...rant over....I took too much medicine before I started writing a reply.
happy growin..
jarff
I'll give you my thoughts on Hygrozyme.
The product breaks down materials and makes them available to the plants. I've noticed that dead root parts and leaves that fell in my rez's in the past would disappear into a sludge like substance. This was the Hygrozyme in action, breaking stuff down. Now, from what I have previously said about being careful with organics fueling the algae, the Hygrozyme is breaking down the materials which are organic and feeding the algae. Then boom algae explosion with all the new found organic food. That is my theory on it.
I only use Hyrozyme in soil now or feed to waste only. You do not want to use it in a re-circulating rez.
The product breaks down materials and makes them available to the plants. I've noticed that dead root parts and leaves that fell in my rez's in the past would disappear into a sludge like substance. This was the Hygrozyme in action, breaking stuff down. Now, from what I have previously said about being careful with organics fueling the algae, the Hygrozyme is breaking down the materials which are organic and feeding the algae. Then boom algae explosion with all the new found organic food. That is my theory on it.
I only use Hyrozyme in soil now or feed to waste only. You do not want to use it in a re-circulating rez.
richyrich said:
I agree with your assessment of how Hygrozyme plays into the algae issue. I don't agree with you on not using it in recirculating systems. Ive used it for a bunch of cycles in my aero system and standalone DWCs without any algae issues. The algae issues some are seeing are isolated issues caused by specific symptoms IMHO.
Cranberry
Member
rr14: I have found a product that seams to be the magic cure for some of us. Microbe lift p/l and ensure have been working wonders. I have had several runs attacked by our enemy, this microbe lift is photoavtive bacteria. bad spelling, but meaning it likes light. Its all natural and is doing the job well...
cranberry
cranberry
Bean Bagpipe
Member
Hey all...i just wanted to say thanks sooooooooooo much to everyone (esp RichyRich) for sharing what you have learned. I personally really appreciate it!!!
Yes BB goodinfo fur sure...It,s helped me immensely...I gained a load of confidence and lost the fear of dealing with alagae each time I start a new grow...Never had a problem yet since reading this thread and learning the methods of preventing the start of algae...Richyrich done us a lot of good...kudos to him..continued success...
peace out
jarff
peace out
jarff
Bean Bagpipe
Member
thanks for your input aswell Jarff.
Here's some more info on Physan 20 From thier website (http://www.physan.com/PAGES/h_g_a.html#Anchor-Physan-14210):
WORK AREAS, BENCHES, TRAYS
Spray or swab working surfaces before each work period, and again after each plant is completed to kill such diseases as Botrytis, Crown Rot, Downy Mildew, Root Rot, etc.
Use: 1 tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
POTS AND FLATS
Used pots or flats should be brushed or washed first, then soaked in PHYSAN 20 solution for 10 minutes before using to kill such diseases as Crown Rot, Mildew, Root Rot and Rusts. Do not rinse.
Use: 1 tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
CUTTING TOOLS
Soak cutting edge of tool for 10 minutes in PHYSAN 20 solution before use to kill such diseases as Botrytis, Root Rot, Stem Rot, and Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) Use wet tool on plants. At the end of work, dry and oil tools.
Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per quart of water.
SMOKERS
Cigarette smokers have tobacco mosaic virus on their hands. Dip hands in solution before handling plants or anything connected with the plants. It is a good idea to have a container of PHYSAN 20 solution always available as a hand dip. Allow to air dry.
Use: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
SEEDLINGS
From flask: soak seedlings 2-5 minutes before potting to remove agar. Soak compost with PHYSAN 20 solution. Helps eliminate damp-off. Keep hands and tools damp with PHYSAN 20 solution. Damp-off: Spray seedlings once per month as preventative maintenance. Spray anytime disease is evident.
Use: 1-1/2 tsp. PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
ALGAE
Greenhouse Glass: Spray or swab surfaces with PHYSAN 20 solution. Let stand for one hour or more or until the algae visibly begins to change to a lighter color. Wash off dead algae with water. Spray clean surfaces again with PHYSAN 20 solution.
Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN per gallon of water.
Walkways: For heavy algae infestation, spray or swab with PHYSAN 20 solution. Let stand for an hour or more. Brush and wash away the dead algae. Soak area again with PHYSAN 20 solution. Do not rinse. This product will inhibit the growth of algae on walkways. Allow to dry on surface, and repeat application if algae growth returns.
Use: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN per gallon of water.
*RECIRCULATING OVERHEAD WATERING SYSTEMS
During the last 2-3 minutes of watering, use PHYSAN 20 solution as a preventative program. Due to variations in growing conditions, use PHYSAN 20 every second to fourth watering. Will control algae in nozzles.
USE: 1 ounce PHYSAN to 20 gallons of water*
Physan 20 For Use On Hardscape Surfaces
PHYSAN 20 is effective at controlling algae on bricks, cement, walkways, walls, statuary, stucco, and other hardscape surfaces. PHYSAN 20 will retard algae growth for a 10-14 day period after it is applied. Reapplication every 10-14 days is recommended to prevent algae recurrence.
Mixing and application directions:
Dilution rate: I tablespoon PHYSAN 20 in one gallon of water.
For heavy infestation, spray or swab. Let stand for one hour or more. Brush and wash away dead algae. Soak area again with PHYSAN 20 solution. Do not rinse. This product will inhibit the growth of algae on walkways. Allow to dry on surface, and repeat when algae growth returns.
NOTE: PHYSAN 20 can be used to retard and prevent algae growth on soil in the presence of plants and turf. However, the dilution rates for these applications are different (and smaller) than for algae control on hard surfaces. For these rates see SEEDS/SEEDLINGS/CUT FLOWER INSTRUCTIONS.
Physan 20 For Use With Fountains, Birdbaths, and Decorative Water Displays
PHYSAN 20 is effective at controlling algae and odor in fountains, birdbaths, swimming pools and decorative water displays. PHYSAN 20 is simple to apply, and safe around birds, mammals and plants.
Mixing and application directions:
Initial Dose: Add 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per 52 gallons of water (I ounce per 312 gallons of water) to achieve a concentration of 5 parts per million.
Weekly Dose: Add 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per 104 gallons of water each week to maintain a concentration of 2-3 parts per million.
Note: PHYSAN 20 should only be used in contained water displays that recirculate, not in ponds, estuaries, or other bodies of water that could drain into fish bearing waters.
Physan 20 For Use With Seeds, Seedlings, and Cut Flowers
PHYSAN 20 controls the growth of algae, bacterial and fungal pathogens which can harm seeds, seedlings and cut flowers.
Mixing and application directions:
Cut Flowers in containers, tubes, and decorative vases - Bacterial Stem Plugging.
To eliminate stem plugging (which restricts uptake of water) and to control bacteria and fungi ( which create ethylene gas, a cause of petal drop), flower spikes should be hardened by keeping the stems in PHYSAN 20 solution during harvesting, storage and shipping.
USE: 1 teaspoon of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.
Seeds and Seedlings - Damping Off
Treat seeds and seedlings by soaking in a solution of 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water for 5 minutes. Fill the flask containing the seed or seedlings with enough PHYSAN 20 solution to completely cover the seeds/seedlings. Drain the PHYSAN 20 solution off the seeds/seedlings before planting.
Use a fresh solution of PHYSAN 20 for each flask.
Seedlings - Damping Off (ornamental plants only)
Make a solution of 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water. Soak seedlings in PHYSAN 20 for 5 minutes. Use a soak container large enough to completely immerse one flask of seedlings at a time. Change the solution daily or more often if solution becomes visibly dirty.
If a garden soil is used for planting seedlings, completely saturate the soil in PHYSAN 20. Place the soil in a pot or tray and add enough PHYSAN 20 solution to completely cover the soil. Let the solution drain through the soil or pour off excess.
USE: 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.
PHYSAN 20 solution is effective in stopping the spread of damping off when sprayed on seedlings. Spray seedlings so that all surfaces are thoroughly wet.
USE: 2 tablespoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 3 gallons of water or 2 tsp. PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.
Seedlings - Downy Mildew (Ornamental Plants only)
Most common on seedlings. The fungus sporulates on the lower surface of leaves as a white, sparse downy growth. The disease can cause the death of aerial plant parts. Spray seedlings so that all surfaces are thoroughly wet with Physan 20 solution at 5-day intervals until under control.
USE: 2 tablespoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 3 gallons of water.
Algae Control on Soil
PHYSAN 20 can be used as a soil drench to control the growth of algae and pathogens in soil.
USE: IF PLANTS ARE NOT PRESENT IN THE SOIL, use 1 tablespoon of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water. Do not get any solution on the leaves of plants.
If plants or seedlings are present, and algae is seen on the =surface of the soil, a more dilute solution must be used.
USE: 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water. Spray so that surface of the soil is thoroughly wet.
Physan 20 For Use With Potted Plants
PHYSAN 20™ is effective in controlling a wide variety of bacterial, viral, and fungal plant pathogens that can cause disease on many types of ornamental plants.
PHYSAN 20™ is one of the few general purpose disinfectant products which is EPA approved in all 50 states for use on hard surfaces and directly on plants!
For a summary of hard surface and plant applications for PHYSAN 20, you may wish to view and download the PHYSAN 20 Usage and Mixing Guide.
Specific instructions for applying PHYSAN on plants are noted below:
Physan 20 For Algae Control On Walkways PHYSAN 20™ is effective at controlling algae on bricks, cement, walkways, walls, statuary, stucco, and other hardscape surfaces. PHYSAN 20 will retard algae growth for a 10-14 day period after it is applied. Reapplication every 10-14 days is recommended to prevent algae recurrence.
Mixing and application directions:
USE: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 in one gallon of water.
For heavy infestation, spray or swab. Let stand for one hour or more. Brush and wash away dead algae. Soak area again with PHYSAN 20 solution. Do not rinse. This product will inhibit the growth of algae on walkways. Allow to dry on surface, and repeat whenever algae growth returns.
NOTE: PHYSAN 20 can be used to retard and prevent algae growth on soil in the presence of plants and turf. However, the dilution rates for these applications are different (and smaller) than for algae control on hard surfaces. For these rates see SEEDS/SEEDLINGS/CUT FLOWER instructions"
Here's some more info on Physan 20 From thier website (http://www.physan.com/PAGES/h_g_a.html#Anchor-Physan-14210):
WORK AREAS, BENCHES, TRAYS
Spray or swab working surfaces before each work period, and again after each plant is completed to kill such diseases as Botrytis, Crown Rot, Downy Mildew, Root Rot, etc.
Use: 1 tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
POTS AND FLATS
Used pots or flats should be brushed or washed first, then soaked in PHYSAN 20 solution for 10 minutes before using to kill such diseases as Crown Rot, Mildew, Root Rot and Rusts. Do not rinse.
Use: 1 tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
CUTTING TOOLS
Soak cutting edge of tool for 10 minutes in PHYSAN 20 solution before use to kill such diseases as Botrytis, Root Rot, Stem Rot, and Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) Use wet tool on plants. At the end of work, dry and oil tools.
Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per quart of water.
SMOKERS
Cigarette smokers have tobacco mosaic virus on their hands. Dip hands in solution before handling plants or anything connected with the plants. It is a good idea to have a container of PHYSAN 20 solution always available as a hand dip. Allow to air dry.
Use: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
SEEDLINGS
From flask: soak seedlings 2-5 minutes before potting to remove agar. Soak compost with PHYSAN 20 solution. Helps eliminate damp-off. Keep hands and tools damp with PHYSAN 20 solution. Damp-off: Spray seedlings once per month as preventative maintenance. Spray anytime disease is evident.
Use: 1-1/2 tsp. PHYSAN 20 per gallon of water.
ALGAE
Greenhouse Glass: Spray or swab surfaces with PHYSAN 20 solution. Let stand for one hour or more or until the algae visibly begins to change to a lighter color. Wash off dead algae with water. Spray clean surfaces again with PHYSAN 20 solution.
Use: 1 teaspoon PHYSAN per gallon of water.
Walkways: For heavy algae infestation, spray or swab with PHYSAN 20 solution. Let stand for an hour or more. Brush and wash away the dead algae. Soak area again with PHYSAN 20 solution. Do not rinse. This product will inhibit the growth of algae on walkways. Allow to dry on surface, and repeat application if algae growth returns.
Use: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN per gallon of water.
*RECIRCULATING OVERHEAD WATERING SYSTEMS
During the last 2-3 minutes of watering, use PHYSAN 20 solution as a preventative program. Due to variations in growing conditions, use PHYSAN 20 every second to fourth watering. Will control algae in nozzles.
USE: 1 ounce PHYSAN to 20 gallons of water*
Physan 20 For Use On Hardscape Surfaces
PHYSAN 20 is effective at controlling algae on bricks, cement, walkways, walls, statuary, stucco, and other hardscape surfaces. PHYSAN 20 will retard algae growth for a 10-14 day period after it is applied. Reapplication every 10-14 days is recommended to prevent algae recurrence.
Mixing and application directions:
Dilution rate: I tablespoon PHYSAN 20 in one gallon of water.
For heavy infestation, spray or swab. Let stand for one hour or more. Brush and wash away dead algae. Soak area again with PHYSAN 20 solution. Do not rinse. This product will inhibit the growth of algae on walkways. Allow to dry on surface, and repeat when algae growth returns.
NOTE: PHYSAN 20 can be used to retard and prevent algae growth on soil in the presence of plants and turf. However, the dilution rates for these applications are different (and smaller) than for algae control on hard surfaces. For these rates see SEEDS/SEEDLINGS/CUT FLOWER INSTRUCTIONS.
Physan 20 For Use With Fountains, Birdbaths, and Decorative Water Displays
PHYSAN 20 is effective at controlling algae and odor in fountains, birdbaths, swimming pools and decorative water displays. PHYSAN 20 is simple to apply, and safe around birds, mammals and plants.
Mixing and application directions:
Initial Dose: Add 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per 52 gallons of water (I ounce per 312 gallons of water) to achieve a concentration of 5 parts per million.
Weekly Dose: Add 1 teaspoon PHYSAN 20 per 104 gallons of water each week to maintain a concentration of 2-3 parts per million.
Note: PHYSAN 20 should only be used in contained water displays that recirculate, not in ponds, estuaries, or other bodies of water that could drain into fish bearing waters.
Physan 20 For Use With Seeds, Seedlings, and Cut Flowers
PHYSAN 20 controls the growth of algae, bacterial and fungal pathogens which can harm seeds, seedlings and cut flowers.
Mixing and application directions:
Cut Flowers in containers, tubes, and decorative vases - Bacterial Stem Plugging.
To eliminate stem plugging (which restricts uptake of water) and to control bacteria and fungi ( which create ethylene gas, a cause of petal drop), flower spikes should be hardened by keeping the stems in PHYSAN 20 solution during harvesting, storage and shipping.
USE: 1 teaspoon of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.
Seeds and Seedlings - Damping Off
Treat seeds and seedlings by soaking in a solution of 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water for 5 minutes. Fill the flask containing the seed or seedlings with enough PHYSAN 20 solution to completely cover the seeds/seedlings. Drain the PHYSAN 20 solution off the seeds/seedlings before planting.
Use a fresh solution of PHYSAN 20 for each flask.
Seedlings - Damping Off (ornamental plants only)
Make a solution of 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water. Soak seedlings in PHYSAN 20 for 5 minutes. Use a soak container large enough to completely immerse one flask of seedlings at a time. Change the solution daily or more often if solution becomes visibly dirty.
If a garden soil is used for planting seedlings, completely saturate the soil in PHYSAN 20. Place the soil in a pot or tray and add enough PHYSAN 20 solution to completely cover the soil. Let the solution drain through the soil or pour off excess.
USE: 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.
PHYSAN 20 solution is effective in stopping the spread of damping off when sprayed on seedlings. Spray seedlings so that all surfaces are thoroughly wet.
USE: 2 tablespoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 3 gallons of water or 2 tsp. PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water.
Seedlings - Downy Mildew (Ornamental Plants only)
Most common on seedlings. The fungus sporulates on the lower surface of leaves as a white, sparse downy growth. The disease can cause the death of aerial plant parts. Spray seedlings so that all surfaces are thoroughly wet with Physan 20 solution at 5-day intervals until under control.
USE: 2 tablespoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 3 gallons of water.
Algae Control on Soil
PHYSAN 20 can be used as a soil drench to control the growth of algae and pathogens in soil.
USE: IF PLANTS ARE NOT PRESENT IN THE SOIL, use 1 tablespoon of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water. Do not get any solution on the leaves of plants.
If plants or seedlings are present, and algae is seen on the =surface of the soil, a more dilute solution must be used.
USE: 1 1/2 teaspoons of PHYSAN 20 concentrate in 1 gallon of water. Spray so that surface of the soil is thoroughly wet.
Physan 20 For Use With Potted Plants
PHYSAN 20™ is effective in controlling a wide variety of bacterial, viral, and fungal plant pathogens that can cause disease on many types of ornamental plants.
PHYSAN 20™ is one of the few general purpose disinfectant products which is EPA approved in all 50 states for use on hard surfaces and directly on plants!
For a summary of hard surface and plant applications for PHYSAN 20, you may wish to view and download the PHYSAN 20 Usage and Mixing Guide.
Specific instructions for applying PHYSAN on plants are noted below:
Physan 20 For Algae Control On Walkways PHYSAN 20™ is effective at controlling algae on bricks, cement, walkways, walls, statuary, stucco, and other hardscape surfaces. PHYSAN 20 will retard algae growth for a 10-14 day period after it is applied. Reapplication every 10-14 days is recommended to prevent algae recurrence.
Mixing and application directions:
USE: 1 Tablespoon PHYSAN 20 in one gallon of water.
For heavy infestation, spray or swab. Let stand for one hour or more. Brush and wash away dead algae. Soak area again with PHYSAN 20 solution. Do not rinse. This product will inhibit the growth of algae on walkways. Allow to dry on surface, and repeat whenever algae growth returns.
NOTE: PHYSAN 20 can be used to retard and prevent algae growth on soil in the presence of plants and turf. However, the dilution rates for these applications are different (and smaller) than for algae control on hard surfaces. For these rates see SEEDS/SEEDLINGS/CUT FLOWER instructions"
Last edited:
Cranberry
Member
I've been Bio Bucketing for over a year, and plagued with problems. Never giving up on the system I was up for the challenge. Thanks for bigtokes design and Daltrons journals I was hell bent to master this system, and I feel I have with out the use of chemicals.
I have used Microbe-lift/PL and ensure on two grows now without the nasties showing up, and my yields came back to what they should have been. Also noticed increased flavors and sniffs in the finished product, with little curing. CB
Here is the link: www.microbelift.com
simple to use "PL"
• Creates a healthy water feature
environment
• Contains photosynthetic bacteria
which reduces cloudy water by
promoting flocculation and settling
of organic and inorganic particles
• Digests organic sludge
• Reduces buildup of wildlife fecal
matter (and fish feed)
• Reduces most noxious odors
including hydrogen sulfide
• Breaks down dead algae
• Safe for fish and plants
“Solving environmental problems naturally since 1976”
I have used Microbe-lift/PL and ensure on two grows now without the nasties showing up, and my yields came back to what they should have been. Also noticed increased flavors and sniffs in the finished product, with little curing. CB
Here is the link: www.microbelift.com
simple to use "PL"
• Creates a healthy water feature
environment
• Contains photosynthetic bacteria
which reduces cloudy water by
promoting flocculation and settling
of organic and inorganic particles
• Digests organic sludge
• Reduces buildup of wildlife fecal
matter (and fish feed)
• Reduces most noxious odors
including hydrogen sulfide
• Breaks down dead algae
• Safe for fish and plants
“Solving environmental problems naturally since 1976”
