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strange persistant problem??

G

Guest

Ive been experienceing some defenciency that seems to not go away.. my girls are from clones .. they are vegging for the summer .. until just recently they are showing some strange signs.. they seem to get very light green to almost white starting from the outter leaf in but not on all of them.. and its specific to old growth, with the veins staying green.. ive already given them some epson salt.. and given them nitrogen.. it seemed to work for a little bit.. they perked back up.. but now are starting to show signs of this problem again.. any help would be appreciated..
 

Crazy Composer

Mushkeeki Gitigay • Medicine Planter
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Have they ever gotten too dry? Did they ever get less water than you know they should have had?

Sometimes, just one very dry spell can wreak havok for a plant grown indoors.
 
G

Guest

not really.. they get a little less than half gallon each of distilled water every third-fouth day..
 

phillykid

Member
maybe Mg deficiency? it can cause interveinal chlorisis or however you spell that, I think some other deficiencies might also cause it but Mg seems to be the most common deficiency that people get. Do you use epsom salt or some other supplement since most ferts don't have Mg in them. Otherwise check over at overgrow faqs. under plant trouble.
peace
good luck
 

Capt. Crip

Strain Seeker/Mirage Reading Master
Veteran
check your soil ph!

check your soil ph!

You are experiencing a mag/potassium defeciency.Mag. is showing in the leaves leaving only the veins green and the whole plant turning pale is a definite sign of potassium problems.It sound like soil PH to me.Is the soil buffered?Do you adjust your PH in your feed water?Sounds like nutes are locked up!

PH check of your soil should be your first step.Take care................CC
 
G

Guest

Sounds like your problems are in the soil. Root Lock, PH problem, Pests.......

Blatant
 
G

Guest

see... i would also assume that it would either be a pH problem or a mG defenciey.. but 3 waters ago i gave each some dissolved epson salt in my water.. the water i used is bottled distilled water.. so i dont think it would fluctuate the ph via the feed water.. so adding the mG didnt really solve anything.. i took them out of the pot and looked at the roots.. dosent seem to be bound.. i also have a soil ph tester and it is around 6.5-7.0ish which should be ideal.. so once again.. im stuck.. i still dont see it.. i was thinking sulpher???? maybe??? .. but hell i dont think ide notice it if i did have it..
 

Capt. Crip

Strain Seeker/Mirage Reading Master
Veteran
potassium

potassium

That's the main reason I switched to Flora Nova series nutrients.It has loads of potassium in both grow and bloom.That's one nutrient that doesn't get enough attention when growing the herb.Cannabis usues loads of potassium for growing strong sturdy stems and for fighting bugs and viruses.It also uses a shitload making flower clusters and especially when making seeds!!!!!
Switch to a high potassium fertilizer and it should solve your problem.Take care...............................CC

I've been growing right at 20 years now and potassium is the hardest nutrient to keep present in a form the plants can use,whether locked up in the soil due to PH or just not enough in the mix......................:wave:
 

Crazy Composer

Mushkeeki Gitigay • Medicine Planter
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
In my experience, many people water their plants often enough, but not correctly, leaving dry zones in the container, which leads to root damage, which often looks like-and is diagnosed as a million different deficiencies and such. Actual deficiencies are just not as common as people think. Ok, maybe there IS a deficiency, but it may not be caused by a lack of what the plant is showing signs of deficieny for. Often a deficiency is the result of the way a farmer maintains/waters his medium. I suggest slowing your watering down to a sincere crawl, where the water gets a whole lot of time to work it's way through the container. It might take a full minute or 2 to correctly water a plant, but there's no alternative in container culture. The roots need to be carefully tended to. Keep the root zone temperatures as cool as possible (65-70 is good).

I would give em a slow flush with a very mild nutrient solution that contains a good amount of N. Run the solution through the medium very slowly, and allow at least one cup of this solution to slowly drain out the bottom of the container. The waste solution that drains out should be a dark pissy color, indicating that you've gotten some shit out of the soil. If you add your water too fast, the water might find a fast way through the container, without thoroughly wetting the entire root zone. Get my drift?
 
G

Guest

im trying to get a hold of a scanner or digi.. this will help with the quandry..

stay posted!
 

Capt. Crip

Strain Seeker/Mirage Reading Master
Veteran
Crazy composer has a good point

Crazy composer has a good point

I always dry my containers almost completely out before watering and I ALWAYS water and flush at least 3/4 of a gallon out of the bottom of the pot after the soil is saturated.After the pots have completely drained I cultivate the soils surface by stiring it to loosen it up so that oxegen can easily penatrate.And I also feed just plain water every 5 or 6 feedings only using a 1/4 to 1/2 strenth fertilizer in between these pure water flushes..By flushing out every watering you keep your soil in balance.(no nutrients build up to toxic levels)But if you use this technique ,I would advise stirring the soils surface after a good drainage.

Always remember to put your plants in appropriate sized containers and work your way up.If the pots to big for the plant,it can't dry it out fast enough for optimum growth.The plant should be able to dry your pots in no more than 5 days,and 3 for me is prefreble.If they are drying out fast,they are growing fast!!
:) ;) Take care and I hope you get it figured out.......................CC
 

zeppelindood

Captain Expando
Veteran
crazy..... you are awesome ~

that a way to give a lesson..... i just love going to school at the IC university of hortaculture. the professors/farmers are second to none. :cool:
 

crunks

Member
Crazy Composer said:
In my experience, many people water their plants often enough, but not correctly, leaving dry zones in the container, which leads to root damage, which often looks like-and is diagnosed as a million different deficiencies and such. Actual deficiencies are just not as common as people think. Ok, maybe there IS a deficiency, but it may not be caused by a lack of what the plant is showing signs of deficieny for. Often a deficiency is the result of the way a farmer maintains/waters his medium. . Keep the root zone temperatures as cool as possible (65-70 is good).


totally on the money..its this reason why hydro seems slighly appealing
 

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