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Stealth Flowering Cabinet Design (Perpetual Harvest)

ryminol

New member
Hello fellow ICMaggers, I am in the planning stages of my first perpetual harvest grow. I will be using 8 x Phillips PL-L 50W/3000K CFL's, and 3 x 120mm computer fans for ventilation. The wood that I will be using will be 1/2" thick, except for the base (dark blue in the design images) which will be made from 2x4's.

Below is my cabinet design. But first, some background information: I've been spending the last couple weeks reading up on dr.bud's perpetual grow method. For the design of this cabinet, I drew inspiration from dr.bud's original perpetual harvest grow cabinet, and his newer perpetual harvest setup located here. I also borrowed heavily from Thundurkle, redgreenry, and Anti's work, located here, here, and here respectively.

This is the second iteration of my grow cab design. After having created the mockup of my first design, I had a lot of concerns regarding ventilation. I re-read many of the articles that I consulted before starting my design process, and realized that I made many stupid mistakes because I didn't pay enough attention to what people have already said :wallbash:.

Anyway, I re-did my design with these new insights in mind, and I decided that my design was ready to share with you guys. I still have a some concerns that I would greatly appreciate advice on. Also, if anybody spots any thing that should be changed that I haven't noticed, please advise.

And without further ado, I present to you, my stealth flowering cabinet design.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



This is a complete view of the cabinet. It's dimensions are roughly 4' x 2' x 3'.



Here is a front view of the cabinet. Flowering room measures at 48.5" x 26.5" x 24". The area that houses the lights is 2" tall (more details below), and the top part of the cabinet where the fans and other electronics will be located is 6" tall.

The fresh air intake is at the bottom center of the cabinet. The hole measures 6" x 8", giving me 48 square inches of intake space for the flowering room. The two diagonal pieces of wood (orange colored) serve to separate the light and flowering room cooling. The small space it creates for exhaust measures at 2" x 26.5" (labeled Flower Exhaust Hole 1 for clarity). Sitting right about that is another exhaust hole for the flowering cabinet which measures 3" x 8" (This is labeled Flower Exhaust Hole 2 in the top view of my cabinet design).



You can better see the layout of the two flowering room exhaust holes in this picture (I forgot to label the exhaust holes in this picture, I'm terribly sorry).

The hole in the center of the cabinet (towards the top) is where the fan which cools the flowering room will sit. I am planning on creating a DIY round carbon scrubber which will be attached to the fan.



Here is the back view of my cabinet design.

The air intake for the lights is in the back of the cab, each hole measuring 1" x 19". Both areas where the CFL's will be are going to be cooled with their own 120mm computer fan. You can better see the holes where the computer fans will sit in the top view of the cabinet (located below).

I plan on separating the lights and the flowering space with two pieces of glass per section (each half will contain four lights). The partition in which the lights will be is 2" high.

The exhaust holes for the whole cab measure 3" x 10" each, giving me a total of 60 square inches of exhaust space.



This is the top view of my cabinet.

Here you can see the the airflow of the flowering room and light exhausts. The fans for the lights sits right above them and exhausts directly into the 6" tall part of my cab.

I apologize for the bad coloring, but the orange walls shaped like a rectangle is where the fan and carbon scrubber for the flowering room will sit. I added this to my cab design to help with light leaks and to separate the exhaust of the lights and flowering room. The fan will also exhaust the scrubbed air from the flowering room into the 6" tall space.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

That is a complete run-down of the design of my cab. I still have a few questions regarding ventilation and woodworking (I have never done any woodworking before). I apologize if my questions are stupid, but I want to make sure all the small details of my cabinet design is good.

Question 1: The fans I will be using to cool the cabinet measure at 120mm, that is roughly 17.53012 square inches of ventilation space. I've read that the intake holes should be double the area of the exhaust fan area. My intake holes for the lights both measure at 1" x 19", giving me 19 square inches of intake. Will this be alright? I figured that since I'm splitting my 8 lights into groups of 4 and cooling each with one fan, I could get away with running my fans on a lower speed, and having less intake per side. Will this be alright?

Question 2: What do you guys think of the flower room exhaust? I had to partition the lights into two sides for maximum light space, and to keep the cab as small as possible. It's a little hard to explain, but basically I didn't have space to fit the flowering room exhaust fan parallel to the ground because of the size of the lights. This is why the flowering room exhaust is perpendicular to the ground, and sitting above the actual flowering room so that the carbon scrubber would fit. And because I wanted to separate the lights from the flowering space with glass, I came up with the two pieces of diagonal wood, creating two exhaust holes. Flower Exhaust Hole 1 = 53 square inches, Exhaust Hole 2 = 24 square inches.

Will the difference in exhaust hole size put too much additional stress on the one fan exhausting the flowering room?

Queston 3: Woodworking question: When building the cabinet, do I apply wood glue, wait for it to dry, then add screws? Or would I screw the screws in while the glue is still drying?

Anyway, that's all the questions I have for now. I apologize for being a little long-winded in my explanations. Any additional comments/suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ryminol
 

ryminol

New member
I forgot to mention, the cabinet will feature two doors. Attached to each door will be 3 pieces of roughly 7" tall wood. The purpose is to make the cabinet appear to be a drawer cabinet. I hope this makes sense...

I've toyed with the idea of Anti's entertainment cabinet, however, I don't have a large and expensive piece of electronic equipment to place on top to account for the width of the cabinet. I have considered various other ideas to conceal the nature of my cabinet, but making it look like fake drawers is the best one I've come up with.

Any better ideas guys?

Ryminol
 

THiCk

Member
The only potential problem i see with your intake for the actual flower room its self is that the intake is directly below the exhaust. Your exhaust fan is going to suck it straight from there and out, leaving all the areas not directly in line with stale/warm air. Instead of having one 6"x8" exhaust in the middle, maybe you should have (3) 4"x4" holes or maybe even (16) 2" PVC elbows equally spread out, so every area of the room has a constant supply of fresh, cool, and CO2 enriched air.

:dance:
 

grady

Member
If you could recess the cab into a wall that is deep enuff, that way you could pull it out spin it around to open the doors. Thats what i thought of when I saw Anti's cab. If you have see the show wasted spaces you will know what I mean, just an idea-grad
 

THiCk

Member
:off2:
How do you make walls transparent in SketchUp? I got it two days ago and I've been trying to make a good model of my (future) grow box, but every time i make a box, i can't get to the inside of it w/o deleting walls...
 

ryminol

New member
THiCk - Thank you! I haven't thought about that for some reason, silly me. I will probably end up changing it to three holes as you suggested. After I get a few more opinions on my design I will craft a new one in SketchUp that reflects this change and post that up for further perusal.

I use the mac version of SketchUp, so I'm not sure if the layout is the same, but here is a quick guide:

Create your object.


Select your object. (Triple click to make sure you've selected all faces/edges)


If you look towards the bottom right of this image, there is a little rectangle with a diagonal line dividing it; half is white, half is grey. Click that button. The color editing menu will pop up.


Adjust the color and opacity. Opacity is how clear your selected objects will be, 100% = solid, 0% = invisible object.


grady: That idea is nothing short of awesome. I'm on summer vacation right now, but as soon as I'm back at the house I will have a look around to see if I can manage that.

Thank you for your input guys.
Ryminol
 

ryminol

New member
canada89 - Would you mind explaining what questions might be asked about the fake doors? I finished up my model with the door to better illustrate how it should look when done.


Please excuse my shitty coloring once again, but if you saw that in a room (painted black or brown or something), would you think fake door? Perhaps I have to come up with something else...
 

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
Question 1: The fans I will be using to cool the cabinet measure at 120mm, that is roughly 17.53012 square inches of ventilation space. I've read that the intake holes should be double the area of the exhaust fan area. My intake holes for the lights both measure at 1" x 19", giving me 19 square inches of intake. Will this be alright? I figured that since I'm splitting my 8 lights into groups of 4 and cooling each with one fan, I could get away with running my fans on a lower speed, and having less intake per side. Will this be alright?

I believe that the intake to my lights are approximately 3" x 8" (24" sq). You could make your 1" figure 2" and double your intake. That would put your intake in line with the "twice as much intake as exhaust" rule of thumb. Seems the easiest solution off the top of my head.

Question 2: Flower Exhaust Hole 1 = 53 square inches, Exhaust Hole 2 = 24 square inches. Will the difference in exhaust hole size put too much additional stress on the one fan exhausting the flowering room?
Your actual exhaust hole is the one that the fan will be mounted to. If your fan is 120mm, then you'll have approximately a 4" circular exhaust for the entire cab. Follow me? Doesn't matter how big the other holes get (unless they are smaller than the 4" hole) they won't have an effect on the fan. Think of anything that causes air to exit the cab as the exhaust (your three fans). Think of anything that brings air into the cab as intake (the big hole on the floor). Anything else is ducting.

Queston 3: Woodworking question: When building the cabinet, do I apply wood glue, wait for it to dry, then add screws? Or would I screw the screws in while the glue is still drying?[/quote]

What I'd recommend is this: glue each piece, clamp it down and then screw it. Wipe off any excess glue. When the whole thing is completely dry, hit it with some silicone caulk to seal up any and all cracks that the glue/screw combo missed.

Any additional comments/suggestions are greatly appreciated!
I recommend you build a 1x1 (or bigger) frame to attach all the walls and ceiling to. If I were able to rebuild my cab right now, that would be the first thing I would change. It's not that it isn't stable. It is. But wood warp is a bitch when you're putting things together and having something to screw INTO (as opposed to trying to screw two .5" pieces of wood together at 90 degree angles) would make life SOOOOO much easier. Plus it only adds a few dollars to your whole setup.

Also, unless there's something I missed, I wouldn't go with a big hole in the floor the way you're doing. When I did it, the room that has the hole doesn't get lit and has no need for a floor. But if yours is one big chamber, you'll want to make use of that space, and even if you didn't care to use it, a bunch of your light is just gonna leak out the bottom, going to waste.

I'd recommend several smaller holes, probably in the back wallof the cab, around the height that the pots you plan to use are. So if you're using pots that are 6" tall, put your intake vents around 6" or 7" from the floor of the cab, so fresh air comes in right at soil level.

If you can't or don't want to try to find a way to trap the light escaping vents in the back of your cab, you could put the holes in the floor and then put a shelf or something over it.
 
G

guest 77721

Nice job on the 3D Sketchup. I've gotta learn me that program one of these days!

CMF = 3.16 * Watts/ delta T
= 3.16 * 200/10 = 63 CFM

That's your minimum airflow for just a lightbulb in a box to take out all the heat. With a cooltube, you can let the light section run a bit hotter with no problems. I've run 252 watts of CFL or 150 HPS with a single 65 CFM computer fan. I would only use one fan if possible.

The intakes are critical. A 100mm or 4" fan needs 25sq in of intake space. Your design is functional but may be noisy at the intakes due to a higher airspeed.

I have a problem with your design as the gap in between the two pieces of glass will be a restriction.

You'd be far better to do a 5x5" intake hole in the top section and with a single fan and one piece of glass. Mount another fan in the grow section with a 5x5" intake. You'll be set to add a scrubber when the plants start stinkin'

Good choice to go with the PLL's. I'd like to know how much heat they really put out because the ballast of the CFL's are as hot as the lights.

That's my tuppence...
 
P

phr3d0m2gr0

Looking good. It's nice to see people using 3D modeling programs more often now. I think this will really lead to a big leap in grow cabinet designs.

Anyway I don't really see anything of concern outside of what has already been mentioned. I'll keep checking in on this though to see how it progresses.

-Phr3
 

ryminol

New member
Thank you all for your venerable advice. I'm in the process of compiling all the feed back I've gotten for version 3 of my design, I'll post it up within the next two days for your critique.

Again, Xie Xie, Thank you, Muchos Gracias, Arigato, Merci Beaucoup,

Ryminol
 

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