splitting off 220 line into a 110??

[Guest]

I have a 3 wire 220 line, and a 3 wire 110, I attempted to take one of the hot wires from the 220 and wirenut it with one hot line from the 110, also attaching the grounds from each wire, on the 110, there was a nuetral line so I taped it off to end the circuit. Well this didnt work. Does anyone have any idea how I could pull this off? I have 20 amps not being used on that 220 line I need for 110. I dont wanna put a new breaker in the box and run a line outside the house, I would really really like to come off the 220 if possible.

If anyone can help I would appreciate it so much!

 

[MTF-Sandman]

Are both circuits using 12/2 wire (2 conductor + ground)? If so, you can just replace the 220v breaker with a 110v (move the white wire that's currently a hot leg to the common bus bar).

I'm kinda confused about the wirenutting a hot leg from the 220v to a hot leg of the 110v...

110v circuits require a hot leg and a neutral (with the ground as a safety)...not a hot leg and a ground.

Any chance you could take a picture or do a diagram of what you've done?

 

[Diego]

Take a pic that sounds counfusing as for the left over wire at the connection you plan on using a junction box or what. Sounds like you dont know what your doing so I wouldnt mess with it.

 

[Guest]

Since I have put it back the way it was, I placed the wires of the 110 line that i tried connecting, next to the 220 lines I thought they could go to. It tripped the breaker so I guess that doesnt work. Is this picture good enough? Please let me know if I can make a better one.

 

[stonewall]

so your voltage source is the two red wires and the white wire coming out of the wall?

Is there a fourth wire coming out of the wall also?

 

[Chester]

I think you're SOL (Sure Outta Luck) unless you can pull a neutral wire through that conduit. Unless I'm missing something, that was wired as a dedicated 220V circuit.

Code allows the use of the metallic conduit as an equipment ground, though I always run a separate grounding conductor (keeps inspectors happy). Without seeing how this run is made, my suggestion would be to add a neutral conductor. I would not depend on conduit for a grounding path unless I knew it was properly grounded and I cannot tell from the photo if the conduit if metallic or PVC.

If you aren't comfortable doing this, and can't hire an electrician, then make a home-run to the breaker box with a new wire.

Stay safe.

 

[Guest]

Yep thats right stonewall, those 2 red ones are part of the 3 wire 220 line

I think I may just set it up how I did in my old room, by installing a new breaker box with a 20 amp 110 and a 15 amp 220 breaker, and run from there. If this doesnt work though my last resort is running a line outside the house. I will always do my best to stay safe and double check that I have turned off the power to everything from the breaker before I attempt anything.

 

[Guest]

I'm kind of confused as to what you're trying to do,are you trying to get a 240 and a 120V circuit or just a 120v?If you have 2 hots and a neutral in that pipe coming from your panel just mount a 30A 120/240V single phase panel right there over the wires,you can come out of it with 240V or 120V circuits then

 

[Buzzsmirk!]

I'm kind of confused as to what you're trying to do,are you trying to get a 240 and a 120V circuit or just a 120v?If you have 2 hots and a neutral in that pipe coming from your panel just mount a 30A 120/240V single phase panel right there over the wires,you can come out of it with 240V or 120V circuits then

iagree w/ skeletor , w/ the additional advice of driving a ground rod at that location for the ground worries.
BUZZ!

 

[Guest]

Good eye or coming off a cold water pipe with some #8AWG stranded

 

[stonewall]

I like their solution.

 

[imnotcrazy]

That conduit looks metallic to me, but I also like skeletor's idea better. Being that it looks like 1/2" conduit, you could check code to see what size wire is allowable maximum in 1/2" conduit. Also remember the max # of conductors allowable in a conduit varies with wire size due to the allowed % fill in a raceway rule in NEC. I don't have a code book available and can't remember off hand but maybe one of the other guys could help. If you could pull in a couple #6 or 8 AWG wires you'd have more than enough power then follow through with driving a ground rod or bonding to copper water pipe and you've got your self a subpanel with either 120/240V available.

 

[Guest]

The two reds look like number 10AWG to me if it is you can use it for a 30A panel without pulling any more wires into the pipe.If you dont have a ground in the pipe you can either drive a rod or use a cold water pipe

 

[Guest]

sub panel

sub panel

Is this allright?

 

[imnotcrazy]

Yeah but I'd get one with a main breaker so you could turn everything off with one switch. Skeletor, I agree looks like #10. You're electrician by trade no? Was just suggesting the upgrade in wire size as it should be easy to do, tape the new feeders to the old wires in the pipe and use them to pull in the new lines. Bet even with the % fill rule you could run a 40-50A subpanel of that 1/2" conduit, if you needed that much power that is.

 

[Guest]

could the 30 amp breaker in the main box be considered the main for this sub panel?

 

[Guest]

The 30A breaker is the main for the "breaker enclosure" that you have there,its not really a panel or load center but will work in a pinch,sq. D too good shit.You could have gotten by with a 30A 120/240 lil panel for a lot less but thatsa nice.Google up breaker enclosure

 

[Guest]

oh I see, If I had been a little bit less hasty I probably would have gone with what u suggested skeletor, I was out and about and not by the computer before I had allready planned and gotten all the parts for the way I ended up doin it. But thanks so much to everyone who helped and had such great info to share. I really appreciate it a lot!

 

[Guest]

Hell thats great equip. I wouldnt say you fucked up at all