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Spider Mites Revisited
or (what are these spots)
Symptoms
During a light to moderate infestation there will be flecking or stippling (tiny spots ranging from white to orange to gray).
Very close inspection will reveal tiny webbing along with the mites themselves. Tiny round eggs almost the size of trics but darker in color next to the veins on underside of leaves.
Heavy mite infestation can be quite dramatic with what appears to be bronzing and eventually scorching of leaves. This can appear as nutrient burn causing leaf loss and the death of the plant.
Tell tale signs being spotted damage in mite damage.
Small flecks early on and huge spots later. (Nutrient burn typically starts on the outer edge of leaves.)
Spider Mite Habits
Almost all spider mites love dry areas. Spider mites like to lay their eggs on the bottoms of leaves next to the veins.
Spider mites reproduce best in warmer temperatures. Mites feed more during dry conditions. There is evidence that stressed plants are more nutritious for the mites.
Life cycle
Spider mites develop from eggs, which usually are laid near the veins of leaves during the growing season. Most spider mite eggs are round and darker than trics and extremely large in comparison to the size of the mother.
The nymph stages (proto- and deuto-nymphs) take two or three weeks. There are usually several stages and generations on one plant.
What can be done?
Spider mites are controlled easier than killed and only can be eliminated with consistent methods or treatments. I will not discuss heavy duty insecticides.
Keeping the plants misted and raising the humidity especially the underside of the leaves is important. This helps on many levels. Most spider mites hate being wet. A spray of water interrupts the webbing helping to interrupt the life cycle.
Insect soap is pretty effective on adults but will not kill all the eggs.( soap will kill the hairs on buds).
Pyrethin based bug-spray degrades quickly (24 hours) with oxygen and bright light but will require many weekly sprays.
.
What ever you do It will require consistency on your part. Spider mites become resistant to modern stronger pesticides quickly this is why once you start spraying you must be consistent . Surviving spider mites may be resistant.
Never forget that healthy unstressed plants are much less likely to become infested.
This is intended as a guide for me and people who are stoned or stupid(like me).
Please do not be pissed off if I did not mention brand names.
If this seems too simple it is intended to be so. Do additional reading.
I do know there is more than one type of spider mite.
please remember If all you have is water it will help for-sure.
or (what are these spots)
Symptoms
During a light to moderate infestation there will be flecking or stippling (tiny spots ranging from white to orange to gray).
Very close inspection will reveal tiny webbing along with the mites themselves. Tiny round eggs almost the size of trics but darker in color next to the veins on underside of leaves.
Heavy mite infestation can be quite dramatic with what appears to be bronzing and eventually scorching of leaves. This can appear as nutrient burn causing leaf loss and the death of the plant.
Tell tale signs being spotted damage in mite damage.
Small flecks early on and huge spots later. (Nutrient burn typically starts on the outer edge of leaves.)
Spider Mite Habits
Almost all spider mites love dry areas. Spider mites like to lay their eggs on the bottoms of leaves next to the veins.
Spider mites reproduce best in warmer temperatures. Mites feed more during dry conditions. There is evidence that stressed plants are more nutritious for the mites.
Life cycle
Spider mites develop from eggs, which usually are laid near the veins of leaves during the growing season. Most spider mite eggs are round and darker than trics and extremely large in comparison to the size of the mother.
The nymph stages (proto- and deuto-nymphs) take two or three weeks. There are usually several stages and generations on one plant.
What can be done?
Spider mites are controlled easier than killed and only can be eliminated with consistent methods or treatments. I will not discuss heavy duty insecticides.
Keeping the plants misted and raising the humidity especially the underside of the leaves is important. This helps on many levels. Most spider mites hate being wet. A spray of water interrupts the webbing helping to interrupt the life cycle.
Insect soap is pretty effective on adults but will not kill all the eggs.( soap will kill the hairs on buds).
Pyrethin based bug-spray degrades quickly (24 hours) with oxygen and bright light but will require many weekly sprays.
.
What ever you do It will require consistency on your part. Spider mites become resistant to modern stronger pesticides quickly this is why once you start spraying you must be consistent . Surviving spider mites may be resistant.
Never forget that healthy unstressed plants are much less likely to become infested.
This is intended as a guide for me and people who are stoned or stupid(like me).
Please do not be pissed off if I did not mention brand names.
If this seems too simple it is intended to be so. Do additional reading.
I do know there is more than one type of spider mite.
please remember If all you have is water it will help for-sure.