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Spider Mites Revisited (guide for the stoned or stupid)

G

Guest

Spider Mites Revisited

or (what are these spots)




Symptoms


During a light to moderate infestation there will be flecking or stippling (tiny spots ranging from white to orange to gray).

Very close inspection will reveal tiny webbing along with the mites themselves. Tiny round eggs almost the size of trics but darker in color next to the veins on underside of leaves.

Heavy mite infestation can be quite dramatic with what appears to be bronzing and eventually scorching of leaves. This can appear as nutrient burn causing leaf loss and the death of the plant.
Tell tale signs being spotted damage in mite damage.
Small flecks early on and huge spots later. (Nutrient burn typically starts on the outer edge of leaves.)



Spider Mite Habits

Almost all spider mites love dry areas. Spider mites like to lay their eggs on the bottoms of leaves next to the veins.
Spider mites reproduce best in warmer temperatures. Mites feed more during dry conditions. There is evidence that stressed plants are more nutritious for the mites.


Life cycle


Spider mites develop from eggs, which usually are laid near the veins of leaves during the growing season. Most spider mite eggs are round and darker than trics and extremely large in comparison to the size of the mother.
The nymph stages (proto- and deuto-nymphs) take two or three weeks. There are usually several stages and generations on one plant.


What can be done?


Spider mites are controlled easier than killed and only can be eliminated with consistent methods or treatments. I will not discuss heavy duty insecticides.

Keeping the plants misted and raising the humidity especially the underside of the leaves is important. This helps on many levels. Most spider mites hate being wet. A spray of water interrupts the webbing helping to interrupt the life cycle.
Insect soap is pretty effective on adults but will not kill all the eggs.( soap will kill the hairs on buds).
Pyrethin based bug-spray degrades quickly (24 hours) with oxygen and bright light but will require many weekly sprays.
.
What ever you do It will require consistency on your part. Spider mites become resistant to modern stronger pesticides quickly this is why once you start spraying you must be consistent . Surviving spider mites may be resistant.

Never forget that healthy unstressed plants are much less likely to become infested.

This is intended as a guide for me and people who are stoned or stupid(like me).
Please do not be pissed off if I did not mention brand names.
If this seems too simple it is intended to be so. Do additional reading.
I do know there is more than one type of spider mite.
please remember If all you have is water it will help for-sure.
 

SmokeyPufmaster

Active member
Veteran
Floramite was the ONLY thing that eliminated my mite infestation. I had them for four years, and tried everything there was to get rid of them. Mites are the toughest bugs to get rid of. I wish everyone luck with them.
 

DIGITALHIPPY

Active member
Veteran
SmokeyPufmaster said:
Floramite was the ONLY thing that eliminated my mite infestation. I had them for four years, and tried everything there was to get rid of them. Mites are the toughest bugs to get rid of. I wish everyone luck with them.

i have this 1 oz floromite i got for 20$ 2 years ago. i spray all my veging plants and never have had problems again.

i noticed if i dont spray my veging plant the mites come back, only a few though, i think there staying in my carpet or on somthing around my house.

*edit.
im amazed they can hibernate for 6-9 month and then make an infestation again on the hurry.
 

romdog11

Member
DIGITALHIPPY said:
i have this 1 oz floromite i got for 20$ 2 years ago. i spray all my veging plants and never have had problems again.

i noticed if i dont spray my veging plant the mites come back, only a few though, i think there staying in my carpet or on somthing around my house.

*edit.
im amazed they can hibernate for 6-9 month and then make an infestation
again on the hurry.

i had mites before. i treashed all the plants got the house professionally sprayed. i started my next grow with hot shot no pest strips and i havnt had any mites or gnats for that matter.
 

chubbynugs

Registered Pothead
Veteran
If they get bad which they rarely do in my garden they get hit with AVID. Instant death to the mites and any other soft bodied creature.
 

SmokeyPufmaster

Active member
Veteran
The no pest strips did me no good. I had mites webbing up my plants six inches away from the strip. I put in plenty, the buds should have toxic to me. But the mites went along unabated. I killed everything except six tiny clones. I sprayed them well(using neem during that time). The neem over time wiped out my entire garden, GONE. But I still had the mites. Cause when I got fresh clones they got infested.

Spider Mite Control, did control them. Kept the mites away and not webbing. But once I stopped especially during flowering. They came back with a vengeance. Then I couldn't do nothing as it was late in flowering.

A perpetual garden to me meant perceptual mites. Floramite ended all of that. Twice during veg and once about 2-3 weeks into flower and all mites everywhere are now gone. I didn't even have a recurrence. I'm gonna keep some on hand for preventative measures. The price is high but so is the satisfaction.
 
G

Guest

Is floramite a systemic pesticide (ie it travels in the plant and when mites eat the leaves they die)? I have some but I'm reluctant to use it as the wife is chemically sensitive. I'm currently controlling with neem but that shit is getting expensive to keep up with as the garden grows.
 
G

Guest

The mites hide then hibernate. Pregnant females, some suggest 40 spider mites can kill a small plant. spider mites infest all nurseries.
I will keep up the soap and pytherins with no signs of infestation.
I know about flourimite and avid and would join the people who do not use it. Has any body tried nicotine sulphate?
Remembering that soaps combined with sulphates will kill plants.
 
G

Guest

The point of this thread is consistent controls. I actually believe the mites parachute in the ventilation.I filter outgoing air and will start filtering the incoming air. The real point here is to treat even when there is no sign.(stippling flecking)
 
G

Guest

Some insects go for the tender new growth the mites go for any growth preferring stressed plants.
 

SmokeyPufmaster

Active member
Veteran
Not sure WWM, but it does have a residual factor of 21 days. I believe that is how it effectively kills the hatchlings. But adults die right away.

Don't really know how sensitive it is to different people. But after that second wk of flower spray you won't need to do it again. So the 21 day residual should be well over. Plus you do this once and you should not have to do it again in successive grows. It does not harm the plants one bit. Matter of fact they'll look better as you've have gotten rid of the bloodsuckers. I'm really amazed with the stuff.
 
G

Guest

floromite rocks. but its expensive. if you are broke dip your cuttings in bleach water 50/50 and then rinse them with fresh water immeadiatly after ive used this method to kill mites off of clones. it kills the eggs and mites because its bleach! it kills mold too.
 
G

Guest

I have only had problems during flower, that is the only place I lower the humidity and raise the temps intentionally. The flecking is hard to miss still such a damn pesky freaking bug .... having to spray the underside and all. Borg is a real good name for the bastards.
 
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