In my flowering room today i noticed white spots on a bunch of my plants . After closer inspection i found spider mites pretty bad on all my farthest along plants . 2 at 50 days , 2 at like 4 weeks . What should i do this far along . It seems pretty infested , no big web but i see the mites on basicaly all leaves
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Spider Mites pretty bad
- Thread starter varriform
- Start date
I garden organically. I would be very uneasy about using a pest strip. They are about one molecule away from nerve gas. They used to have a warning- don't use in baby's rooms or kitchens! Do they still have that?
I also had an infestation late in flower. It cut my harvest in half. Neem slowed, but didn't kill the borg. The leaves were dying from the neem. So I lugged the tubs to the bathroom and sprayed the heck out of the plants (Yeah I lost trichs doing it, but lower quality is better than nothing at all). Then I put our box fans- you know, the ones you use in summer to move the air- on the girls for an hour or so to dry them. After that, I drenched them with "Garden Safe's Fruit and Vegetable Insect Spray". I was lucky, my strain of mites wasn't resistant to the pyrethrins! Killed the few survivors of the "great deluge". After harvest, I cleaned everything. Over a year now, and no sign of them.
Good luck!- Granny
I also had an infestation late in flower. It cut my harvest in half. Neem slowed, but didn't kill the borg. The leaves were dying from the neem. So I lugged the tubs to the bathroom and sprayed the heck out of the plants (Yeah I lost trichs doing it, but lower quality is better than nothing at all). Then I put our box fans- you know, the ones you use in summer to move the air- on the girls for an hour or so to dry them. After that, I drenched them with "Garden Safe's Fruit and Vegetable Insect Spray". I was lucky, my strain of mites wasn't resistant to the pyrethrins! Killed the few survivors of the "great deluge". After harvest, I cleaned everything. Over a year now, and no sign of them.
Good luck!- Granny
you need some FLOROMITE or AVId, about 20 an oz itll kill all them bastards in one blow. and itll innoculate your plants so if they continute to eat they will die from the plant. use it ASAP before 2-3 weeks in flower is best. up to 4 weeks in is safe, but earlier the better. for rot and damage sake.
s0cK3y3
Member
I use Ed Rosenthahl's Zero Tolerance for SpiderMites. It can be used up to 5 days prior to harvest. You also DO NOT have to rinse it off like Neem Oil. It is 100% organic and safe. Only problem is it smells up a room when you use it for a few days.
My back room smells like cinnamon and spices (waaaaaay too much though so it doesnt smell good)
www.zero-tolerance.com
Neem Oil works like a charm though. Either one of these will fix them.
On another note though, I have a mentor who actually likes seeing spider mites. He says they put the plants though a small amount of stress which makes them more resiliant and stronger. (i myself would kill them but who knows)
My back room smells like cinnamon and spices (waaaaaay too much though so it doesnt smell good)
www.zero-tolerance.com
Neem Oil works like a charm though. Either one of these will fix them.
On another note though, I have a mentor who actually likes seeing spider mites. He says they put the plants though a small amount of stress which makes them more resiliant and stronger. (i myself would kill them but who knows)
I just dealt w/ the same thing. I took the Vietnam agent orange approach and took away anywhere they could hide. I took off all fan leave and 80% of the smaller leaves. My plants were just stem and bud. That slowed the borg enough to make it to the end of harvest. Hid hut sells floramite by the oz. which is the best solution, but no good close to harvest.
G
Guest
i have been waiting to cut and paste this
i have been waiting to cut and paste this
Symptoms
During a light to moderate infestation there will be flecking or stippling (tiny spots ranging from white to orange to gray).
Very close inspection will reveal tiny webbing along with the mites themselves. Tiny round eggs almost the size of trics but darker in color next to the veins on underside of leaves.
Heavy mite infestation can be quite dramatic with what appears to be bronzing and eventually scorching of leaves. This can appear as nutrient burn causing leaf loss and the death of the plant.
Tell tale signs being spotted damage in mite damage.
Small flecks early on and huge spots later. (Nutrient burn typically starts on the outer edge of leaves.)
Spider Mite Habits
Almost all spider mites love dry areas. Spider mites like to lay their eggs on the bottoms of leaves next to the veins.
Spider mites reproduce best in warmer temperatures. Mites feed more during dry conditions. There is evidence that stressed plants are more nutritious for the mites.
Life cycle
Spider mites develop from eggs, which usually are laid near the veins of leaves during the growing season. Most spider mite eggs are round and darker than trics and extremely large in comparison to the size of the mother.
The nymph stages (proto- and deuto-nymphs) take two or three weeks. There are usually several stages and generations on one plant.
What can be done?
Spider mites are controlled easier than killed and only can be eliminated with consistent methods or treatments. I will not discuss heavy duty insecticides.
Keeping the plants misted and raising the humidity especially the underside of the leaves is important. This helps on many levels. Most spider mites hate being wet. A spray of water interrupts the webbing helping to interrupt the life cycle.
Insect soap is pretty effective on adults but will not kill all the eggs.( soap will kill the hairs on buds).
Pyrethin based bug-spray degrades quickly (24 hours) with oxygen and bright light but will require many weekly sprays.
.
What ever you do It will require consistency on your part. Spider mites become resistant to modern stronger pesticides quickly this is why once you start spraying you must be consistent . Surviving spider mites may be resistant.
i have been waiting to cut and paste this
SymptomsDuring a light to moderate infestation there will be flecking or stippling (tiny spots ranging from white to orange to gray).
Very close inspection will reveal tiny webbing along with the mites themselves. Tiny round eggs almost the size of trics but darker in color next to the veins on underside of leaves.
Heavy mite infestation can be quite dramatic with what appears to be bronzing and eventually scorching of leaves. This can appear as nutrient burn causing leaf loss and the death of the plant.
Tell tale signs being spotted damage in mite damage.
Small flecks early on and huge spots later. (Nutrient burn typically starts on the outer edge of leaves.)
Spider Mite Habits
Almost all spider mites love dry areas. Spider mites like to lay their eggs on the bottoms of leaves next to the veins.
Spider mites reproduce best in warmer temperatures. Mites feed more during dry conditions. There is evidence that stressed plants are more nutritious for the mites.
Life cycle
Spider mites develop from eggs, which usually are laid near the veins of leaves during the growing season. Most spider mite eggs are round and darker than trics and extremely large in comparison to the size of the mother.
The nymph stages (proto- and deuto-nymphs) take two or three weeks. There are usually several stages and generations on one plant.
What can be done?
Spider mites are controlled easier than killed and only can be eliminated with consistent methods or treatments. I will not discuss heavy duty insecticides.
Keeping the plants misted and raising the humidity especially the underside of the leaves is important. This helps on many levels. Most spider mites hate being wet. A spray of water interrupts the webbing helping to interrupt the life cycle.
Insect soap is pretty effective on adults but will not kill all the eggs.( soap will kill the hairs on buds).
Pyrethin based bug-spray degrades quickly (24 hours) with oxygen and bright light but will require many weekly sprays.
.
What ever you do It will require consistency on your part. Spider mites become resistant to modern stronger pesticides quickly this is why once you start spraying you must be consistent . Surviving spider mites may be resistant.
B
Blunted22
dude i wish i had spider mites to what i have man... I dont recommend this in your flower room but ive seen it done.... For two weeks just put a hot shots no pest strip in your rooms....
Keep one always in veg i heard the pesticide can suck up in the bud so i try to keep them out of flower.... But honestly its the only thing i found to KILL spider mites.. everythign else just controls them...
o yea and its like 6$ or 7$ dollars at walmart of homedepot....
Keep one always in veg i heard the pesticide can suck up in the bud so i try to keep them out of flower.... But honestly its the only thing i found to KILL spider mites.. everythign else just controls them...
o yea and its like 6$ or 7$ dollars at walmart of homedepot....
So I still have these jerks on my plants, not surprised I know. i used that no pest strip for a little while but I have plants coming down in like 5 days so I put it in my veg. I really dont like using it at all, makes me not wanna be in the grow room. I that docs neem pest soap and it worked a lil but i have plants at like 4 and a half weeks so I stopped on those. I bought Zero Tolerance by ED and was wondering if anybody had any info as if I can put this on my plants now. It says 5 days from harvest but........
Also it has no reccommended dosage on it. It says not to dilute if u dont have to. whats that supposed to mean. hydro store guy said thats crazy and to try it at like 2% first .
info ????
Also it has no reccommended dosage on it. It says not to dilute if u dont have to. whats that supposed to mean. hydro store guy said thats crazy and to try it at like 2% first .
info ????
KABBAGE
Member
Neem is OK at best I'd say. It provides an organic solution to a long hated problem - MITES. It does not, however cure your plants/grow area of mites., really just slows them down. imho. A few strains of cannabis also don't respond well to neem being sprayed on the leaves...
eg) my Renee plants would develop brown crispy blotches on her leaves after being treated with neem. Also, the waxy appearance is not the greatest, nor is the smell it leaves.
It appears to be the "organic way to go" for now. I wish there was a organic solution that actually killed them, but we are going to have to wait for that I suppose
eg) my Renee plants would develop brown crispy blotches on her leaves after being treated with neem. Also, the waxy appearance is not the greatest, nor is the smell it leaves.
It appears to be the "organic way to go" for now. I wish there was a organic solution that actually killed them, but we are going to have to wait for that I suppose
I use neem and no pest strips preventatively.
Neem does not need to be washed off but I would not use it this close to harvest.
It`s not leathel or even dangerous in any way, it has a taste though and it can overdose your plants on N very quickly.
A 2-5% dilution of neem with a few drops of dish or anti insect soap as a surfactant works well.
I don`t eat or lick the strips so I dunno what the big deal is, I always dunk my clones in neem at transplant, and I foliar when I turn down the lights for flowering, it keeps anything from getting a good foothold.
Suby
Neem does not need to be washed off but I would not use it this close to harvest.
It`s not leathel or even dangerous in any way, it has a taste though and it can overdose your plants on N very quickly.
A 2-5% dilution of neem with a few drops of dish or anti insect soap as a surfactant works well.
I don`t eat or lick the strips so I dunno what the big deal is, I always dunk my clones in neem at transplant, and I foliar when I turn down the lights for flowering, it keeps anything from getting a good foothold.
Suby
tenfeetofganja
Member
I dont have time to read it all but this is my take:::
IF YOU HAVE SPIDERMITES, TOSS ALL PLANTS AND CLEAN ROOM.
ONLY if you have a really elite highly sought after genetics would i deal with battling mites.
you save more time trashing em and start over..
goodluck
IF YOU HAVE SPIDERMITES, TOSS ALL PLANTS AND CLEAN ROOM.
ONLY if you have a really elite highly sought after genetics would i deal with battling mites.
you save more time trashing em and start over..
goodluck
Bedtimeforbonzo
New member
Floramite
Floramite
Clean yes. Throw out the plants? Your crazy dude. Buy a 1 oz bottle of Floramite and problem solved. Costs 20.00$ USD.
Floramite
Clean yes. Throw out the plants? Your crazy dude. Buy a 1 oz bottle of Floramite and problem solved. Costs 20.00$ USD.
The key to eradication is consistency. You have to be on it every three days! and use a cocktail of spays and bombs (use something different every time you treat). This is WAR....seriously! Watch what you wear into the room (have a suit you wear only in that room and keep it in there), clean everything that touches the plants, wrap duct tape around drying lines so they cannot escape and reinfect your room once you have harvested. They are serious! I have tried everything and there is not one thing I can point to...be consistent.
