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source for thermal cutoff switch??

imnotcrazy

There is ALWAYS meaning to my madness ®
Veteran
What kind of blower? If the thermal switch is tripping it could be bad, or there could be another problem.

Digikey d o t c o m OR http://www.johnstonesupply dot com may have what you're looking for
 

MTF-Sandman

OG Refugee
Veteran
You could use an attic fan thermostat and a NO relay to kill the lights...just stick the thermo on the coil side of the relay so that once a set temp is reached, it'll send juice to the relay which will open the circuit (thereby cutting the power to the lights).
 

2buds

Active member
Why isn't your blower wired to the same plug as the lights so they all run at the same time? Killing your lights over heat issues is gonna screw up your light cycle and cause even more problems. I'd setup a fluorescent light to run with your big lights, but runs independent of your big lights if you do the thermal thing so at least some light stays on to keep your light cycle stable. Be better to address the heat issue properly since summer is coming and you can spend more the first time and fix it right or nickel dime it and curse steady till you spend the money to fix it right later. Best of luck and remember an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of smoke(cured). Peace
 

thescissors

Member
2buds said:
Why isn't your blower wired to the same plug as the lights so they all run at the same time? Killing your lights over heat issues is gonna screw up your light cycle and cause even more problems. I'd setup a fluorescent light to run with your big lights, but runs independent of your big lights if you do the thermal thing so at least some light stays on to keep your light cycle stable. Be better to address the heat issue properly since summer is coming and you can spend more the first time and fix it right or nickel dime it and curse steady till you spend the money to fix it right later. Best of luck and remember an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of smoke(cured). Peace


I like to run the blower for about 20 minutes after the light goes out to pull the bulb heat out of the box, otherwise it gets hot and humid in there. so that is why it is on a seperate timer, and the first time i did it before i had it on a timer (had the blower running 24/7 originally), the second time i just messed up the timer.

so what i want is a switch that will kill the light just like sandman said. what i wanted was a prewired setup i could just plug in. or i could wire it into a socket if they are just sold seperately....

thanks for your replies and anyone else who wants to chime in... :)
 

MTF-Sandman

OG Refugee
Veteran
thescissors said:
I like to run the blower for about 20 minutes after the light goes out to pull the bulb heat out of the box, otherwise it gets hot and humid in there. so that is why it is on a seperate timer, and the first time i did it before i had it on a timer (had the blower running 24/7 originally), the second time i just messed up the timer.

so what i want is a switch that will kill the light just like sandman said. what i wanted was a prewired setup i could just plug in. or i could wire it into a socket if they are just sold seperately....

thanks for your replies and anyone else who wants to chime in... :)

That's exactly what I do as well...run the fans for a while after the lights go out to keep the lights from being a hot spot over the gals.

If you want a prewired one, check out the Cap HLC-1 variable temp cutoff - The HLC-3 also includes a 15 minute delay so the light won't try to hot start.
 

thescissors

Member
MTF-Sandman said:
That's exactly what I do as well...run the fans for a while after the lights go out to keep the lights from being a hot spot over the gals.

If you want a prewired one, check out the Cap HLC-1 variable temp cutoff - The HLC-3 also includes a 15 minute delay so the light won't try to hot start.


Hmmmm $120.......... any ideas on a DIY solution? ;)
 
G

Guest

Manh.......i got a fishtank heater that the element got damaged from.....

If its a 120v fan....just replace the fan where the element (wires) used to connect...

voila....DIY - and temp adjustable
btw....you gotta remove that glass (cigar hoder looking) tube otherwise the fan doesnt switch on immidetly when the temp in the box get too high....
u know what i,m saying.......the air inside the glass housing gotta ajust to the outside temp first....only then it kicks in.....and it might be too late then...:yoinks:

Hope it hepls
 
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