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Snype's New Build - Help Appreciated

Snype

Active member
Veteran
I'm getting close to starting construction on the new room / rooms. The space is 24' x 40' x 10'. There are 2 floors so those dimensions are only for 1 of the floors. I'm pretty set on the growing systems that I'm going to use but open to anything else as of now. I'll be using my 10 bucket RDWC system for every 2,000 Watts horizontal lighting for now but will eventually make the switch to 1 RDWC plant per 1,000.

I was thinking about breaking up the room into 10' x 24' x 10' sections and running 8 x Gavita DE's in each room with 4 RDWC systems which would bring my plant space for the room to 8' x 20'. That would give me exactly 50 Watts Per Square Foot. If you look at the original dimensions of the entire space, you see that 24' is the width of the room. So I'm basically keeping the width and adding walls to the length of the room every 10 - 12'. I would also consider adding 2 vertical bare bulbs between each system and on the ends for an additional 6,000 Watts to 10,000 Watts depending if I used 600's or 1000's. Those vertical lights would only be on for a few hours a day just to fatten up the lowers and sides. I'm trying to keep plants between 36" to 48" and that's why I think some additional vertical bare bulbs can help my yields. After I build up some funds from a couple of successful crops, I will take out one of the walls to combine 2 rooms and have 16,000 Watts of Horizontal Lighting for each floor and do 1 plant per light. I would need some good breathing room to try 1 plant per light because anything can go wrong and a grow is expensive. Until then though I'm going to start with smaller rooms to control things better as well as controlling expenses and breaking up harvests because I'm going to use 0 trimmers and going to use a Satellite Trimming Machine after a couple of crops of hand trimming. I've had too many problems with outsiders in my past and it seems that specific trimmer doesn't need to use any lubrication while using the machine as opposed to the Twister.

I'm thinking of going with 3 tons of Central Air for each room. Only 8,000 Watts of lighting will be on at a time in each room. Temperatures where I am are mild. I'd rather not use a mini-split because I want to put the vents from the central air in different places in the room to distribute the air better and I think Central Air is supposed to be more efficient than mini-splits.

One of my concerns is the 4 walls of the structure. I don't want any smells or noise getting out of the room. I was going to first gut the room and put the pink fiberglass insulation in the walls. Then i wanted to add something else over the insulation, like sound board but I would like to get opinions from the community to make the best room that I possibly can. I was even thinking after I do the insulation and sound board, to build an additional 2"x6" wall right over the old wall that I just insulated. I don't know if I'm being too paranoid because my only reason to build the second wall is so I can add another layer of the pink insulation within the wall. I can't have any smell at all get out of the room / rooms. Maybe someone will tell me if I'm crazy or if there's a better idea than the one that I have. I will also be using Carbon Filters. I have an Ozone or whatever you call it but I don't want to use it. It smells too funny when using it I don't want it to smell like that outside and I'm also running sealed rooms so I can't vent the rooms as well.

I also don't know what material that I should use for the walls. I usually use Sheet Rock or Blue Board but I'd like to hear some ideas if there is a better material for me to use. The only thing going over the walls is reflectix or mylar.

I also have to put in a new subfloor and level it and I was thinking of adding tile to the floor and part of the walls and put a drain in the middle of the room in case of a flood or problem.

I also wanted to try and build my own panel and flip box. Maybe someone can help me with that as well. From this point i've been using hydro store lighting controllers but I'm sure they are pretty weak compared to what can be built with the right advise. I really have no idea though.

I'm running this operation all by myself so I'm going to fully automate everything that I can and also add camera's to the rooms plus camera's to read any data that I need. I'm hoping to be able to leave the grow for a few nights every couple of weeks to take care of other things and cameras can help me feel a little more comfortable with leaving. Any ideas on any of this is welcome!
 
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ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
good to see back snype...

personally i have always liked cement sheeting which i assume is what you call sheet rock...cover with a quality paint and it lasts forever...place over reflectix makes it insulated, quiet and easy to clean...using thicker fibreglass insulation should make it even quieter

good luck...

you
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
good to see back snype...

personally i have always liked cement sheeting which i assume is what you call sheet rock...cover with a quality paint and it lasts forever...place over reflectix makes it insulated, quiet and easy to clean...using thicker fibreglass insulation should make it even quieter

good luck...

you

Sheet rock is gypsum board. The difference between Sheet Rock and Blue Board depends if you are using a skim coat or joint compound. Maybe you are talking about Green Board or Cement Board made for bathrooms.
 

overbudjet

Active member
Veteran
If noise cancellation is your goal then go with dual wall with roxul in between you may also add a layer of this green stuff called sonopan or like me do both option:)
Very quiet :biggrin:
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
I'd highly recommend checking out Gnomes room for ideas: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=274889 it's insulated up the ass and looks amazing

Yeah I just saw his thread. Maybe as a second wall over the existing wall I can use:

Amdry 5.9 in. x 24 in. x 96 in. R22 Type 1 Insulated Wall Panel

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amdry-5-...-Wall-Panel-AMWP222496/204399266?N=5yc1vZbaxx

That option is certainly on the table. The panels only go to 8 feet though and my ceiling is at least 10 feet. Maybe someone will know if I can somehow extend them if I chose to go this route?

So if I insulate the exterior walls with fiberglass first, I can get R21 and then I can add the Amdry 5.9" Insulated Wall Panels over the existing insulated studs which is rated at R22. That would give me an R rating of 43 which I think would be great. Any thoughts from the community on this option?
 
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Snype

Active member
Veteran
These light tests are making no sense at all to me. If Gavitas are supposed to be mounted 35" from the tops of the plants at the 1,000 watt setting, why is lumatek's bulbs on regular ballasts brighter at 24"? Makes no sense at all because most regular ballasts and reflectors should never be higher than 24". Shouldn't the Gavita Ballast at 35" be brighter than the Galaxy with Hortilux at 24"? I was going to bring this up before but I thought I was seeing things. It's also strange that most DE grow threads just stopped with no finish. That sales rep for Gavita here says Gavita's should be mounted at 90cm for the 1,000 Watt setting which is 35.43 inches. Here's a link but it's hard for me to trust this test according to the numbers:

http://growershouse.com/images/DE_TEST_INFOGRAPHIC.pdf

:lurk:

picture.php
 

Coconutz

Active member
Veteran
See how much more uniform the Gavita is? Its designed to give a rectangle shape and be overlapped without creating any hot/dim spots.
The benefit of the design is a more uniform light coverage in the room and a more efficient output.
My buds look better 36" away from my hortilux than the ones that are 24"
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
See how much more uniform the Gavita is? Its designed to give a rectangle shape and be overlapped without creating any hot/dim spots.
The benefit of the design is a more uniform light coverage in the room and a more efficient output.
My buds look better 36" away from my hortilux than the ones that are 24"

That would depend on what style reflector that you are using. According to my light tests wider reflectors have less penetration of the canopy than some smaller reflectors. Also, when I tested the Bell Lighting reflector, the sweet spot for a 1,000 watt Hortilux was 19" above the canopy but when I tested the Radiant Reflector with the Hortilux, the sweet spot was at 24". According to my meter, at 24" on my Radiant, I was getting about 10% more light output compared to my Bell Lighting reflector at 19". The tests in the link don't take the sweet spot for each individual reflector into account. Makes me want to do some testing.
 

Coconutz

Active member
Veteran
It will depend on the reflector the hortilux is in. Thats another benefit of the Gavita.
They are tuned to the bulb and ballast so you always get a uniform light pattern.
That takes the guess work out of designing your room/light set up.
Not everyone can afford to test and rework stuff.
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
It will depend on the reflector the hortilux is in. Thats another benefit of the Gavita.
They are tuned to the bulb and ballast so you always get a uniform light pattern.
That takes the guess work out of designing your room/light set up.
Not everyone can afford to test and rework stuff.

Was thinking of placing the Gavita's every 5' on center between systems and 4' on center within the systems. So each Gavita would also get overlap from all the other lights as well. I just don't know which way the bulb should point to get the best overlap.
 

Coconutz

Active member
Veteran
If I were about to fill a large room with light I would put a MH in the middle of every couple of Gavitas. I think they recommend using a plasma for every 2 DE's, but that would be baller. They are pricey!
The Gavita should be placed so that the bulb points the long way of the rectangle
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Regarding the soundproofing, a staggered-stud wall works amazingly well. A second interior wall built inside of the existing one would be a little easier to install in existing construction and give you the same benefits with a little more space lost, but the two wall must not touch each other - the soundproofing comes from interrupting the vibration path, not the thickness of the wall.

http://www.diy-home-theater-design.com/staggered-stud-wall.html
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
hey snype,
sooooo... at it again eh :D

for insulation and sound proofing I would check out Prodex, stuff is amazing
its about a 13/64" thick, R16, vapor AND radiant barrier,
and it provides 19dba contact noise reduction per layer.
using prodex and isocyanurate foam panels, my room averages R-40 on walls+ceiling
 

overbudjet

Active member
Veteran
Hey Snype what is your plan about automation ?Using plc(and do all the prog by yourself) or use controler like the ioponic/harvestpro/growtronix !
 

theJointedOne

Well-known member
Veteran
work is easier, and life is easier, when u eat more than a banana a day lol


good luck man, but dont forget to take care of your temple, without your body the world you know just ends,
 

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