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smoke detectors go off when lights turn on
- Thread starter gezzel
- Start date
brown_thumb
Active member
Has an electrician verified the circuit and wiring can safely handle the load?
i had an electrician come in and install the outlet and told him how much would be running there. I never had a problem running it for a year.
Could HPS lights output infrared light that could setup the IR remote testing function of the smoke detector?
More likely bugs like fungus gnats are getting fried by the lamps. How soon after they fire up are the alarms triggering?
Ok a minute or two, the lamps may be hot enough to fry bugs by then.
You should smell it though?
Ok a minute or two, the lamps may be hot enough to fry bugs by then.
You should smell it though?
when your lights come on... are fans and shit comeing on as well?
some photoelectric detectors are fantastically sensitive... dust kicking off surfaces that accumulated from the night before could easily set one off were it close enough.
you are supposed to locate these alarms like 20' away from appliances and duct return and supply registers for this reason.
you might also try vacuuming out the alarm... sometimes dust accumulates inside the things.
some are also just complete shit and will false alarm for no reason.
some photoelectric detectors are fantastically sensitive... dust kicking off surfaces that accumulated from the night before could easily set one off were it close enough.
you are supposed to locate these alarms like 20' away from appliances and duct return and supply registers for this reason.
you might also try vacuuming out the alarm... sometimes dust accumulates inside the things.
some are also just complete shit and will false alarm for no reason.
its a 4k grow, it's a pretty clean area and it's air cooled
the fans are constantly running when the lights are off.
i swapped the alarm out for a different one (not new).
i guess my next step it just to disconnect the alarm and see if it still goes off.
2 out of 4 nights recently it has no gone off after the lights turned on.
i would not think so man... but perhaps its possible.
at this point, i would simply swap your detectors for a different TECHNOLOGY.... IE if you are using ionizing detectors, switch to photoelectrics, or if you are using photoelectrics, switch to ionizing types.
fwiw, the photoelctrics are generally considered to be far superior, and far more sensitive. they are generally cheaper too... im guessing that is what you have, so try an ionizing type.
During start up the ballast is using the most energy/amps for the first few minutes. So maybe the digital ballast is putting out some extra signal than when operating after start/warm up? 
I agree about switching out the detectors with different ones. Me personally, i would be putting my nose smelling all around each ballast on start up. If I couldnt smell any kinda burn smell, that would ease my worry. If the new detector reacts the same way, I'd call the ballast manufacturer and inquire.
I agree about switching out the detectors with different ones. Me personally, i would be putting my nose smelling all around each ballast on start up. If I couldnt smell any kinda burn smell, that would ease my worry. If the new detector reacts the same way, I'd call the ballast manufacturer and inquire.
National fire alarm code for ducts is 3 feet, not 20'. In commercial buildings, there are smoke detectors plumbed to the ducts via a sampling tube.
There is nothing about appliances other than indoor grills, and that's a mere 6'.
mine are also hardwired.
i was thinking this at first, but they go off 2-3 minutes after the lights. unless it takes that long for the ballsts to power up fully...
it is a photoelectric
this is the unit
http://www.firstalert.com/index.php...oke-carbon-monoxide-alarm-with-voice-location
yea im not familiar with the fire codes other than sprinklers, im going off some manual for 3 wire photolelectric detectors. i believe it was much much more than 6 feet... i could be wrong though.
it specifically mentioned "appliances", but i believe this was a reference to microwaves, fridges, ovens and shit like that that can, and often do contain blowers, fans, or exhaust systems.
this is not true from what i understand.
i think they are only better at detecting smoke from "clean" combustion or something like that.
i think if it was induced by a power quality issue, it would only chirp for a few seconds? sounds like yours was going off a few minutes after powering on.
try an ionizing alarm.
but by no means forget that you might actually have a real fire problem here.
its entirely possible that something is actually going on here... hot outlets, bad wiring etc, i think you should keep your eyes peeled even if you solve the issue.
ive found COOKED outlets at my moms house before... completely fried. they came out in pieces. she has these thick phenolic outlet boxes though... so chances of a fire are pretty remote, but still. its possible something similar is happening to you and you just cannot smell it.
try an ionizing alarm.
but by no means forget that you might actually have a real fire problem here.
its entirely possible that something is actually going on here... hot outlets, bad wiring etc, i think you should keep your eyes peeled even if you solve the issue.
ive found COOKED outlets at my moms house before... completely fried. they came out in pieces. she has these thick phenolic outlet boxes though... so chances of a fire are pretty remote, but still. its possible something similar is happening to you and you just cannot smell it.
Less than 12 inches (305 mm) away from fluorescent lights. Electrical
“noise” can interfere with the sensor.
This came from the instruction manual. Try moving it to different locations in your room. Move the ballasts away from the detector. Try turning on only one ballast at a time. Maybe one ballast is having issues. If trying each ballast separately doesn't set it off try turning two on at a time and so on.
“noise” can interfere with the sensor.
This came from the instruction manual. Try moving it to different locations in your room. Move the ballasts away from the detector. Try turning on only one ballast at a time. Maybe one ballast is having issues. If trying each ballast separately doesn't set it off try turning two on at a time and so on.
