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Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation
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led05
Chasing The Present
Not sure what you mean there, u mean like better overall, or easier on the Ca front, or it's what we have to work with here, being surrounded by limestone all over the place...... Its in the soils, the water, everywhere
There's times I'd prefer more acidic others I like PH 7-7.2 range more, than say 6.2 - 6.4
I think for certain plants mid 6's PH is great, I think for Ca hogs like this plant 7-7.2 better, much like Peppers even though most literature may say otherwise, haven't read much on this stuff as of late to be honest, sold out my interests in the AG space not too long ago.... Only ones left are passive in nature.
If a plant loves Ca and it's easier to deliver it in a certain PH range, why not give it a go? - Mo will thank you for it
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HappyTreeFarm
Member
i got my samples back from logan this morning, using this lab as a reference for where i was at in the fall(hoping the get my K3 test done shortly). lots of rain has washed through my pots and was hoping it would change my levels (esp. Na). i added about 3lbs per yard of gypsum as a top dress and let the rain wash it through. it was nice to see Mg move down and some progress with Ca but much more to go for sure. does watering in the gypsum work better in your opinion? how long should i wait after amending to retest?
I was hoping to see a drop in the water minerals cause of the abundance of precipitation we've acquired, not as significant as i expected. Chloride dropped
The CEC is huge difference with AA 8.2
Are all the major cations more accurate or should i just be looking at Ca:Mg on the AA test?
P:Zn is 9.4:1
I will be using DE to raise Si have a bag of perma-guard
EC went up don't think thats enough though, don't fully understand the N test but I'm not liking the No3 ppms
cause of my water my ph is fcked, I'm using citric acid to drop ph, My K levels are really high and with that Zinc up to 30 ppms i was thinking i would see more available in the solution.
any comments would be much appreciated
I was hoping to see a drop in the water minerals cause of the abundance of precipitation we've acquired, not as significant as i expected. Chloride dropped
The CEC is huge difference with AA 8.2Are all the major cations more accurate or should i just be looking at Ca:Mg on the AA test?
P:Zn is 9.4:1
I will be using DE to raise Si have a bag of perma-guard
EC went up don't think thats enough though, don't fully understand the N test but I'm not liking the No3 ppms
cause of my water my ph is fcked, I'm using citric acid to drop ph, My K levels are really high and with that Zinc up to 30 ppms i was thinking i would see more available in the solution.any comments would be much appreciated
led05
Chasing The Present
I anecdotally KNOW it, I don't have a proper controlled scientific study to link to but don't need one BC I know, and for me that's what matters, best I can do
....I'm sure they can be foundThe ease of it too for my/this region shouldn't be overlooked, do what works for you where you are but higher Ca and lower Mg or a 10:1 min I think is critical for best quality in most plants, annuals or perennials... The water, soils, everything around here is unusual in that the limestone controls, my tap is PH 7.8-8 and almost entirely Mg & Ca based so for me fighting to get below 7 doesn't make any sense especially knowing what I do now.... It wasn't always this way !! My battle is with Mg mainly
Often outside many things are pushing toward acidity (acid rain, groundwater pollution by other farmers, fertilizers etc ) why not give it a little buffer to start also.....
I don't test much at all anymore unless something went really wrong because I know exactly what I'm working with, the inputs are consistent, I trust them and the only thing I do these days is personal in nature so I have it easy... This may sound arrogant, probably is but it works for me and I've learned that's the most important thing when it comes to growing anything
plantingplants
Active member
So this mixing yard just uses two loaders to mix custom soil in layers. Is it a terrible idea for me to give them 30 lbs of a blend of Sodium Borate and Cu, Mn, Zn sulfates to mix into 40 yards?
I just don't know how well they can mix it like that...
Fuck I want the micros in there and it's clouding my judgment. I don't think I should.
Maybe I'll just water them in and really dump water through afterwards to make sure it gets evenly distributed.
I just don't know how well they can mix it like that...
Fuck I want the micros in there and it's clouding my judgment. I don't think I should.
Maybe I'll just water them in and really dump water through afterwards to make sure it gets evenly distributed.
plantingplants
Active member
If OM holds micros, when you water them in, the top layer of soil is going to fill every site it can, then the rest of the soil below gets what's left. Doesn't that mean the top layer of soil is going to be really high in micros? Or will enough water move the micros through?
PP,
Metals will flow down easy enough. It is the availability that you must worry about. This is why adding fulvic acid, fruit enzymes and even citric acid with your metals when you drench with them will augment greatly their availability.
When you are trying to get things down deep, you need to bring your soil to nearly saturated capacity so that nearly all the soil is full of water. Then apply your micros and push with more water.
If you need 200 ppm of Mn, you can apply 50 to 100 ppm up front, and then another 50 to 100 during the season, ideally twice a week, acidified with the right chelator.
Trying to apply that little bit of micros to a big pile is not easy, it is quite doable if you have the right equipment.
Many who try this method of balancing up front and choose not to continue amending, will usually fall down as there is a big dynamic and that is the constant release of more Fe and Al. This is why balancing metals need to be applied frequently.
Or you can always buy some woowoo!
The slow nickel cup is on.
Any takers?
PM me.
Any takers?
PM me.
Gold&White Leaf
Member
PP,
Or you can always buy some woowoo!
i thought we all agreed to boycott scurvy crew?
Rodehazrd
Well-known member
Hey guys
I finally read this forum through and must say I know a lot more and understand some more than before.
If I may I would like to tell you a question.
I think the leaves import store and return nutes to the rest of the plant like In late bloom the leaves give everything up.
So my question is do flowers also have a mechanism to export stored nutes.
When people flush do they affect the makeup of the buds or just the leaves?
I do organic and just don't feed past 4 weeks of flower. Would it really matter if I did,other than wasted food?
Rodehazrd
I finally read this forum through and must say I know a lot more and understand some more than before.
If I may I would like to tell you a question.
I think the leaves import store and return nutes to the rest of the plant like In late bloom the leaves give everything up.
So my question is do flowers also have a mechanism to export stored nutes.
When people flush do they affect the makeup of the buds or just the leaves?
I do organic and just don't feed past 4 weeks of flower. Would it really matter if I did,other than wasted food?
Rodehazrd
HillMizer
Member
If you were going to do it dry, I would mix the micros with a yard+ of material in a cement mixer. Fill buckets of it and be on site to distribute the material while the mixers are mixing. Don't trust them with anything important and difficult.
Let me tell ya that you don't want to give anyone the responsibility of makING sure you have a good year. I mix my soil and minor tasks I micro manage everyone. Put your amendments on dry and till that shit in. Just speaking from experience with a soil company here in CO. The year before and after I leared my lesson i crushed.
Why don't I hear about anyone weighing theyre soil? Am I the only guy who's doing it?
Why don't I hear about anyone weighing theyre soil? Am I the only guy who's doing it?
plantingplants
Active member
Yea I asked if they had a fertilizer blender but no such luck and I don't have a cement mixer.
You're right reppin- was just thinking that today. I'm going to test a couple pots so we'll see how uniform their mixing is.
Weighing your soil? Here's someone doin it : https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=340498
Why do you weigh it? Get an idea of how much moisture it holds?
You're right reppin- was just thinking that today. I'm going to test a couple pots so we'll see how uniform their mixing is.
Weighing your soil? Here's someone doin it
: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=340498Why do you weigh it? Get an idea of how much moisture it holds?
led05
Chasing The Present
Weighing, that's funny! I was just mentioning in PM to someone that I know the quarry here well enough I use that I can normally tell what's in the truck without looking based on the weights of the load.
Place I get from all deliveries list truck weight empty & after full on BOL / invoice and if you get enough loads from same place the weights speak volumes...
I use both cement machine mixers and all varying size of tillers, for only 40 yards that's exactly what I'd be doing too, good advice.... if it was hundreds of yards I'd probably find a way to rent a cement truck or ask a buddy for a fav
led05
Chasing The Present
Yea I asked if they had a fertilizer blender but no such luck and I don't have a cement mixer.
You're right reppin- was just thinking that today. I'm going to test a couple pots so we'll see how uniform their mixing is.
Weighing your soil? Here's someone doin it
Why do you weigh it? Get an idea of how much moisture it holds?
The invoice should list the weight.
I can tell what % of sand, soil, compost or what size stone # 1, 2, 3 etc all by the load weights, get enough loads and if your anal enough and track them it's easy to back into it... different times of year and moisture content does vary weights but a good operation will keep moisture relatively constant w/in reasonable parameters
led05
Chasing The Present
Yea I asked if they had a fertilizer blender but no such luck and I don't have a cement mixer.
You're right reppin- was just thinking that today. I'm going to test a couple pots so we'll see how uniform their mixing is.
Weighing your soil? Here's someone doin it
Why do you weigh it? Get an idea of how much moisture it holds?
40 yards isn't much material, spread it out a foot or two thick, mix your micros with 50gallons of sand(use a big tote & spade) then spread across the top by hand & till it all in, this is less than a days work w common machines you should have around... take control / don't rely it'll also allow you to see what you got better up close in your mix
If u don't have a tractor rent a little skid turn for @ 150 a day, job will go faster and then you can play around w it rest of day, dingos are fun too
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