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Share Your 2022 Guerilla Plans, Strains and Tips.

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
I've had a few successes and a few complete failures in the same year.
I still don't know what I'm putting in the ground this year. I'd like Banana Cake if I can find it.


Here are a few tips for a good year.
  1. I use 12" chicken wire cages instead of 24". We have lots of deer, but they have lots of food so they don't seem to bother with weed. Raccoons on the other hand only want to dig the plants up and can't seem to figure out a tiny cage.
  2. Dig a 12" x 24" hole. Wider is better than deeper. I've used an auger on a cordless drill. Works well and it's quick.
    My favorite is a modified ICE fishing auger.
    Image1.png
    Image2.png
  3. Mix your amendments and fertilizer in a bucket and drop a cup in the hole and one around the hole. Water crystals work well when rain is sparse. Just don't use too much or it'll push your plant out of the ground in heavy rains. 1 table spoon per hole is LOTS.
    soilmoist.jpg
  4. Prep your holes a week ahead of time and let the local animals get used to them.
  5. I don't care if your lazy, cage your frigging plants. I lost 85% of my crop one year because I was too lazy and it was a lot of work. Only plant the seedlings that you plan to cage otherwise you're wasting your time. You'll get more out of 10 caged plants than 40 uncaged plants.
  6. I use a cordless string trimmer 3 times during the grow season.
    strimmer.jpg

    But there were times I used normal hand shears.
    shears.jpg
    2018-06-20_10-24-07.jpg

    What ever works. keep grass and weeds away from your plants of they won't get enough sun and your yield will be tiny.
  7. DON'T TOP YOUR PLANTS. If you top them, chances are good it'll split in a good wind.
    This one was topped by something (not me) and this was the result. All untopped plants were heavy yielders.
    split.jpg
  8. If you're alone and need to get your harvest in quick, debuck the plants by hand. With your garden or mechanics gloves on, grab a branch and haul the buds off by pulling hard. Everything will come off in your hand. If you have time, remove all the fan leaves off your plants a week or two before you harvest. Use a duffle or big sports bag to hold the buds.
  9. You can make it easier on you when you return to HQ by using a blow trimmer in the field. When you get home, you can just lay the buds out on your screens to dry.
  10. Don't let your buds, trimmed or not, stay in that bag for long or they'll sweat and that's a good way to introduce mold.


    Good luck.
 

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big315smooth

mama tried
Veteran
im the the master of tip#5 the lazy part. i try caging most but sometimes i just send it with the rest and its always hit or miss. lost side patch last year no cage = setting yourself up for failure
 

BadTicket

ØG T®ipL3 ØG³
Moderator
Veteran
Sup Tych man, good luck with the season. Bit early cause its still another 2-3 months of hockey season left and fucked up amount of snow everywhere, but planning is never bad :)
Had lots of trouble with animals before I moved my spots to where I am now. Moose, deer, rabbits eating greens. Hard to keep hungry long necks away from the plants even with a high fence thats still relatively stealthy if you gotta worry about people spotting your spots, too. I ranted about that earlier, so not gonna repeat what I said. Also cussed out the damn raccoon dogs coming over the border from Russia, not only an invasive species which spread rabies, those bastards will dig up plots in spring time if they smell organic nutes in the ground. Especially chicken shit ferts seem to interest them, which makes sense, cause easy prey and they dont mind eating carcasses. They will go up, under or thru a fence if they are really hungry. Unless you build a double fence and make it real sturdy. And even then I had to sow one spot three times couple o years ago until I gave it up. Bitched about that back then also and still hate em suckers to this day. On the new spots here most animals are really shy and wont come near me spots unless they have to. And still seem to leave em alone. Prolly cause theres a lot of other greens to eat in the woods and less competition. Raccoon doggos here only come out at night and dont dig up spots either, dono what is different there, but I´ll take it!

I have a friend who fences his spots up, and uses his pee around the spots. Bit gross, and I dono if it works or is just a legend. But basically do your morning pee in a bottle and spread it around trees, leaves and bushes near your spots, plots and plants because its a strange human smell for most animals and they will (in theory) be wary of people. Obviously they will get used to smells and rain will wash all that pee away eventually. Then again, no shortage of pee like ever if you have beer around. So drink beer :)

Smaller animals you might try to keep away with sound. I have a friend who swears by tick tock sound of a clock. Guy buys the loudest, cheapest alarm clock in bulk, wraps em in plastic bags and buries em near the surface close to his plants. The steady tick tock, tick tock should keep rodents from coming closer (again, in theory) because they stop to look around and listen while foraging. Never tried it meself so I dono. Just remember to dig em shits out from time to time because they will gather moisture. Also check batteries and dont leave em out year round.

Worth a try? :)
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
I have used farm grade Fly Bait mixed with a bottle of soda pop. Raccoons love it and almost die while they're drinking. Very effective.
Over hear, you need to be a farmer to get it because it's controlled. I'm not, but my brother is :)

This is on the label telling us not to use it on raccoons. lol
xsn-racoonembed.jpg
 

Swamp Thang

Well-known member
Veteran
I've got seedlings growing from Ace Malawi, Golden Tiger, and Zamaldelica, all of which I intend to nurture for years as mother plants indoors under LED lights working in sequential turn with twin timers programmed so one light goes on when the other toggles off, thus ensuring that my cheap Chinese LED lights don't ever run for longer than one hour each. A fan is tied to one of the timers, to circulate air for an hour, then cool off for an hour.

The lights start each day at 5 am, and shut down at 11 pm at night, giving an 18-hour light cycle, and 6-hour darkness each day. Hopefully when April rolls around these seedlings will have grown into nice bushy shrubs from which I'll then take clone cuttings that will be rooted in granulated worm castings under lights set for a modified light schedule of 14 hours on and 10 hours off, until they are finally ready to go down to my secret grow spot hidden on an island in the swamp.

With the location of this garden close to the Equator, and going with a much earlier start to the crop than last year, I hope to harvest dome decent buddage a few months later. If there's enough time I'll run another crop in the same holes after harvest, after burying a whole mackerel in each spot and topping off with some freely gathered worm castings from the forest.
 

budsnblunts

Well-known member
Veteran
When growing in an area that is wet like swamp/marsh wetlands expect alot of water when the rain comes. For this reason I like to make mounds with soil found on the out skirts. I usually had a 40 litre potting mix bag i use to carry it around with, a wheel barrow would be ideal. I'm having success this way and got through a storm with no casualties. Also consider the change of plant growth between the seasons when scouting new spots.
 

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hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
I've had a few successes and a few complete failures in the same year.
I still don't know what I'm putting in the ground this year. I'd like Banana Cake if I can find it.


Here are a few tips for a good year.
  1. I use 12" chicken wire cages instead of 24". We have lots of deer, but they have lots of food so they don't seem to bother with weed. Raccoons on the other hand only want to dig the plants up and can't seem to figure out a tiny cage.
  2. Dig a 12" x 24" hole. Wider is better than deeper. I've used an auger on a cordless drill. Works well and it's quick.
    My favorite is a modified ICE fishing auger.
  3. Mix your amendments and fertilizer in a bucket and drop a cup in the hole and one around the hole. Water crystals work well when rain is sparse. Just don't use too much or it'll push your plant out of the ground in heavy rains. 1 table spoon per hole is LOTS.
  4. Prep your holes a week ahead of time and let the local animals get used to them.
  5. I don't care if your lazy, cage your frigging plants. I lost 85% of my crop one year because I was too lazy and it was a lot of work. Only plant the seedlings that you plan to cage otherwise you're wasting your time. You'll get more out of 10 caged plants than 40 uncaged plants.
  6. I use a cordless string trimmer 3 times during the grow season.

    But there were times I used normal hand shears.
    filedata/fetch?id=18067990&d=1644424731
    What ever works. keep grass and weeds away from your plants of they won't get enough sun and your yield will be tiny.
  7. DON'T TOP YOUR PLANTS. If you top them, chances are good it'll split in a good wind.
    This one was topped by something (not me) and this was the result. All untopped plants were heavy yielders.
  8. If you're alone and need to get your harvest in quick, debuck the plants by hand. With your garden or mechanics gloves on, grab a branch and haul the buds off by pulling hard. Everything will come off in your hand. If you have time, remove all the fan leaves off your plants a week or two before you harvest. Use a duffle or big sports bag to hold the buds.
  9. You can make it easier on you when you return to HQ by using a blow trimmer in the field. When you get home, you can just lay the buds out on your screens to dry.
  10. Don't let your buds, trimmed or not, stay in that bag for long or they'll sweat and that's a good way to introduce mold.


    Good luck.

Very nice post I agree with everything.

I see we have the same set of shears. I chose the hard work over the noise of a electric string trimmer. Sometimes I trim the long grass at the same time I dig the holes. That way it grows back a little when you plant. Other times I trim later.

I cage all my plants with the green plastic coated diamond shaped wire you can get at the big box stores. I stake them in with bamboo and they help hold up the plant during flower and even though they are only 24" tall. I like to dig my holes at least two weeks ahead time. Give the racccoons a chance to dig around in holes. They can be a pain in the ass but once they see there is nothing to eat in your holes they move on.

I have never used that soil moist . I have used the coco bricks and hate them. You cant mix them in dry you have to soak them and they take forever to break up. Was just thinking about what I was going to use this year?
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
I have used farm grade Fly Bait mixed with a bottle of soda pop. Raccoons love it and almost die while they're drinking. Very effective.
Over hear, you need to be a farmer to get it because it's controlled. I'm not, but my brother is :)

This is on the label telling us not to use it on raccoons. lol

My dad uses the same methodology . He feeds the Raccoons soda. He says they cant burb and it kills them. I don have the heart to do it.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
If one grows indoor plants under an 18 hr photoperiod and puts them out when there's only 13 hr daylight, the plant may switch into producing flowering hormones. I tried to match the indoor photoperiod grow time with the outdoor photoperiod planting time, so I wouldn't have any downtime.😎
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
From what I've read, for photoperiods it's the decrease in daylight (or increase in darkness) that triggers flowering. So putting them out at 14 may trigger flowering.
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
Gearing up now.


Summer - Outdoor
  1. 20 Super Silver Haze x Blueberry (reg)
  2. 20 Blue Kush (fem)
  3. 10 Blue Jag (Honduran x Jam) (fem)
  4. 10 GG4 x WW (fem)
I'll just be collecting colas.
The rest goes to hash. New freezer is waiting for it.


Spring - Indoor (F&D) - flower after 2 week veg
  1. 40 Strawberry Cough (fem)
    (pheno hunt. Looking for the shorter one.)
Spring - ​​​​​​​Indoor (testing RDWC)
  1. 1 Destroyer (fem)
 

troutman

Seed Whore
I've placed mostly Sativa Haze hybrid plants a full 5 weeks into flowering outdoors that were finally showing sex indoors
and they languished. In the end, they never finished properly. Long flowering plants it seems are more likely to revert to
vegetative mode if daylight is higher than maybe 14 hours of light. So make sure you stick with pure Indica or better yet
some Autos if you expect them to finish on time in Northern areas.

A light deprivation greenhouse would be nice. :)
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
I had some pure Sativa's go until after a couple hard November frosts and they were wonderful. But I know what you mean. They never fattened up the way they should have.

The haze at least have some indica in them so... no risk, no reward. lol
 

40degsouth

Well-known member
10CA44AA-A616-4A07-89D4-3FFDEE1EC196.jpeg
Hey everyone, l hope you’re all well.
I also agree that caging/supporting plants is extremely important. If you’re going to alow a plant to destroy itself in inclement weather, it would be wiser to plant later in the season so they don’t get as big.
Here’s a kid’s soccer net about $10 for 9 meters by 2.5 meters it’s uv resistant and l prefer the thicker diameter of rope over the potentially chafing hortinova. It can be used indefinitely or until it’s donated to the local school.
Bricklayer’s oxides for colour, don’t get this stuff on yourself or your clothes (henna is better if you can get it) and with some stakes you have a fantastic support and l can fit eight in a backpack.
Cheers,
40.
 

40degsouth

Well-known member
799C74AD-B957-49FB-9993-937CFBBB8E55.jpeg
Hey everyone,
just a photo of another quick, easy and cheap support l use for plants that have stretched far enough though a cage to need more support but not really worth the trauma to the plant, extra time and mucking around of more nets/caging etc. for a plant that’s nearly finished.
This is just a stretchy support material loosely wound around the cage to hold everything in place so the plant doesn’t destroy itself in flower. Extra weight in buds due to heavy rain along with high winds, with no support are a recipe for deviation for plants and people.
Cheers,
40.
 

dirty-joe

Well-known member
Hey Tycho,
I surely agree with not topping guerrilla plants (yeah might be OK for the guys who have two layers of support, and looking for multi-pound plants), I hate to see them split, and broken.
Also agree no cage / fence to keep out / deter the rabbits, and diggers then don't waste your time.

If you don't mind where you getting the Super Silver Haze x Blueberry, and strawberry cough ? I want to get some sativa into the mix this year. (and I am in Canada)

I did 73.5 grams of hash this year. Goal for next year 100 grams.
 

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