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Seven Insecticide for Gnats?

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
So ive been battling these gnats for some time now, had them gone for most of last year but got some in clones in the springtime, and i cannot get rid of these fuckers. Its usually not a problem because i expand my coco with boiling water and let it sit before rinsing and charging. Now that they're back they still get into unused coco after its been boiled, so thats not really helping. Ive been alternating pyrethrin and permethrin as soil drenches about a week apart, did a dunk with insecticidal soap (and barely flushed quick enough to avoid totally burnt plants), amd have sprayed neem with spreader on soil tops and plants multiple times in the past few weeks.

Before anybody chimes in with the clichés such as: youve probably got root aphids, or use a layer of sand, or the classic "gnatrol kills em dead", all these avenues have been checked.

Theres no aphids on the roots (ive disected several rootballs to find nothing but gnat larvae, no honeydew or crawlers)

They seem immune to bti (used it every watering for months without even a reduction in population) so gnatrol/dunks/microbelift arent gonna help.

Ive been using pyrethrin and permethrin (alternately of course) which seems to have slowed them down, the soap dunk also seemed to reduce the amount of flyers i saw, but no matter what i use and how many times i repeat treatment, i always manage to kick up at least one or two flyers when im watering every day.

I read a thread where someone said they put seven dust on their soil tops for a few days, then found a piece of literature from MSU that says carbaryl(Seven) or malathion could be used as soil drenches to kill larvae if the infestation is persistant. Has anybody had any experience with seven? Its not systemic, and wont be sprayed, so it ending up in the finished product isnt a problem, im just afraid to use the 45ml/gal the bottle reccomends. At this point, all the neem, soap, and pyrethroids have done more harm to my plants than the gnats so i dont wanna burn everything with another overzealous soil drench, but the only other mix rste i could find was from a forum and was 1/4 tsp per gallon which is like 98% less than the bottle reccomends.

So anyone with dosage reccomendations please dont be a lurker, speak up please and thank you.

On a side note, i got spectracide foggers to treat the whole house with after the first soil soak with Seven, does anyone know if tetramethrin or cypermethrin are effective on adults? I know spectracide concentrate used as a drench did nothing to them, and i feel like ive created a real immunity problem with the pyrethrin and permethrin
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
I get the thirty percent h2o2 and use 1/10 of a quart per gallon and do this pretty regularly. It might have slowed them down, but i still see flyers every now ans again
 

KONY

Well-known member
Veteran
With the Bti, are you using it soaked into your water for atleast 24, preharably 48 hours before applying? This is a huge part that many people miss, however this still only controls the larva stage.

You need to get all the adults with sticky traps or sprays or a mix of both. Also let your medium dry out more in between waterings.
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
I have a res set up on a float on the R/O that has a dunk floating in it 24/7. I also let the coco get as dry as i can without damaging the plants, but since im in coco it causes mad salt buildup and didnt seem to slow them down
 

HUGE

Active member
Veteran
If you are equating 1 mosquito dunk floating in a Rez to treating your garden with Gnatroll I can assure you that is the problem. A dose of Gnatroll is like an atomic bomb to them where as that mosquito dunk is like having a ship off their coast.
 

I wood

Well-known member
Veteran
*Edit* Most of my reply does not apply, i did not catch the coco part before i answered.
I will leave it for any soil gardeners who may happen by.



fungus gnats exist mostly in the top two inches of soil.
i had good results vacuuming the top layer away after leting it dry out a bit.
h2o2 drench on remaining layer before new dirt back to original level.
the holes in plastic pots give them a safe spot to regroup from, covering those from the inside with landscaping fabric helps keep them from repopulating so fast.
With the above reactions, crustacean meal and neem seed meal in themix I have kept them from becoming an issue again.
seven might work a bit easier but i imagine they would be back relatively quickly.
they can be beat, good luck.
 
Last edited:
U

useless.gardens

With the Bti, are you using it soaked into your water for atleast 24, preharably 48 hours before applying? This is a huge part that many people miss, however this still only controls the larva stage.

You need to get all the adults with sticky traps or sprays or a mix of both. Also let your medium dry out more in between waterings.

i agree totally. growing in amended coco, super clean lab & tents, and with superb vigilance, i still have gnats.

control is critical. depends on how much medium you need to manage, understanding the 7 day (ish) life cycle , they lay up to 300 egg per female, etc...

one thing. like the poster who i quoted. BTI you need to let "marinate". i fill jugs. let them sit out for a day. and put a fat pinch of BTI in each jug. then let that "bloom" for a full day.

very effective.

i also mix into the top layer of the coco a pich of BTI.

also. spinosad. natural pesticide from a fermentation process. good drench with that too.
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
If you are equating 1 mosquito dunk floating in a Rez to treating your garden with Gnatroll I can assure you that is the problem. A dose of Gnatroll is like an atomic bomb to them where as that mosquito dunk is like having a ship off their coast.

I went through a couple hundred bucks worth of the gnatrol without even denting their population. Thats why i only bother floating a dunk. Monsanto makes a corn strain that naturally produces BTi to fight corn borers, as a result, michigan fungus gnats have wicked resistance to it. And the only pesticides listed on any ag publication are all ornamental only :(

Just soaked one table worth of plants in a mix of 2.3gram orthene + 2.5ml riptide per gallon this morning. I shut off all the HIDs just to be safe. Can anyone tell me how soon after a 30min soak i should flush the medium? Or just let that shit chill and see if the fans fry
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
No way bro. Went from like 1.2# a light to 1.8 switching to coco dtw from promix. One day ill have enough space for composting and tea brewing and whatnot, but for now im on that coco shit
 

Lester Beans

Frequent Flyer
Veteran
I use a few inches of hydroton on top of coco and that works pretty well. Or cover the pots with aluminum foil the best you can.

Sounds like you have a robust population. Mojave Green was suggesting to throw anyway your coco and replace with new coco. I have to agree with that. If you don't want to toss it you could cook it I guess but coco is pretty cheap.

So I would start with yellow sticky traps and hydrogen peroxide, and then let the coco dry completely. Bury some potato in the pots to kill some larvae in the meantime. I would focus on killing the larvae and make sure you don't have water laying around. Like in trays under your pots. Just have to try many things at once.

Hit em from all angles like a jacked up spider monkey! Good luck!
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
At the moment, my coco bin's empty, and i expand with boiling hot water before rinsing in pillowcases in the bathtub. Unfortunately the little pricks just fly over to the clean coco while its drying. Its like, leave the bin uncovered to dry akd prevent pathogens but allow gnats into it, or seal the bin of wet coco and grow god knows what kind of algae and pathogens. Feel like im tryin to weld with argon over here
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
Did you see the larvae come to the surface of the coco trying to get the fuck away from that shit?
Of the seven plants i test dunked i did not, ive been pretty dilligent so their numbers are always going down, pretty much every time i get overly comfortable with just boiling the coco once the lifecycle seems broken, i back off. This time im hoping to eliminate that by drenching beneficial nematodes once i flush the hell out of everything once its all dunked.


I ordered some yesterday, i got 50 mil 2 day shipped for $77. Figured thats enough for say 40 or so 2gal coco smart pots. Ill be ordering more in a week or two, so i can start using trichoderma and mychos every feed again and not worry about h2o2 and all the pyrethrin and everything fucking with the todes or the bennies. Fingers crossed
 
it seems that if you have tried so many different approaches and still cant get them gone completely a more serious option may be to take fresh clones of all of your mothers in a bubble or aero cloners and then trash all the used coco , clean and sterilize all of the buckets, the room, etc and start over...and then after 2 days go back and re-sterilize everything again before transplanting clones to pots
 

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