Seedling's showing signs of problem on leafs

[40AmpstoFreedom]

(Link to my grow is in my sig)

SOIL:

How long has this problem been going on? 2 days
What STRAIN are you growing? C-Plus, Mental Floss, Calizahr, & Grapefruit x Blueberry
What was the establishing technique? seed
What is the age of your plants? 7 days
How Tall are the plants? 3 inches
What PHASE (seedling, vegetative or flower) are the plants in? seedling
What Technique are you using? Will be lst'ing not currently
What size pots are you using? 6 inch square
What substrate/medium are you using? What brand of soil mixture are you usin? 3 part FF Ocean Forest, 1 part FF Light Warrior, 1 part Perlite
What Nutrient's are you using? How much of each with how much water? How Often? *Knowing the brand is very helpful* None
What is the TDS/EC/PPM of your nutrients used? only have PH
What is the pH of the "RUN-OFF"? 6.0 to 6.3
What method of pH test was administered? pH pen digital
How often are you watering? once a day
When was your last feeding and how often are you feeding? none
What size bulb are you using? Tek T5 8 Bulb
What is the distance to the canopy? was 5 inches now 7-8 inches
What is your RH Factor? ~50%
What is the canopy temperature? 92 degrees now 80-86
What is the Day/Night Temp? (Include fluctuation range)
What is the current Air Flow? (cfm etc.) dont know
Is the fan blowing directly at plants? was I moved it fear may also be wind burn
Is the grow substrate constantly wet or moist? yes, also toned down how much water I using
Is your water HARD or SOFT? I dont know its tap water I am guessing hard leaves spots
What water are you using? Reverse Osmosis (RO)? Tap? Bottled? Well water? Distilled? Mineral Water? First three days ph 7.0 bottle water now ph'd 6.0-6.5 tap water
Has plant been recently pruned, cloned or pinched? no
Have any pest chemicals been used? If so what and when? no
Are plant's infected with pest's? no

Water:

Type: Tap water
Ph: I started off for first 3 days with bottled water 7.0 Ph as I was waiting on Ph up and down. I then started with tap water PH 6.0-6.5 (I do let it sit out 24 hours before using). The run off ph is usually 6.2-6.3.

I think about it this could be wind burn too, I had a fan blowing pretty close to the tops and they were lightly shaking back and forth for 30 or so hours...I moved the fan to where they were no longer moving at all and raised my light from 5-8 inches high.

I misted them with ph'd water as a foliar application to see if they change by the end of tomorrow.

Hopefully this was all that is wrong I guess its a waiting game



Now here are the pictures of the plants with problems I described:

This does not seem to be getting progressively worse so, but it has only been a 2 days.

Plant 1:



Other leaf



Plant 2:



Plant 3:



Plant 4:

Leaf curl I described and several have this problem only a few with brown marks






I had 90-92 degree temps and have since pointed the air conditioner vent towars the grow closet they are in and moved the light up to 8 inches.

Temperatures are now down to 80-86 degrees night/day.

I think my problem was too much fan on them + heat, but I could be way off I will leave it up to the experts...

 

[mexilandrace]

dude, they are 7 days old? as in 7 days from seed old?

That soil is too hot if so. I can't be reading this right, how big is a 7 day old plant that you are noticing leaf issues? In soil it can't be hardly a plant yet can it?

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

updated with pics...

 

[Weedninja]

I see you're a new grower, so I'll give you some advice:

1. Don't shock your plants. If your pH is 7, don't try to make it 6 in one shot.
2. If your leaves are curling upward from the leaf margin(like they are) its heat stress.If the whole leaflet curls upward from the center, its Mg deficiency.

Another thing is that I would give them their first feeding(1/4 strength) at this point.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

I see you're a new grower, so I'll give you some advice:

1. Don't shock your plants. If your pH is 7, don't try to make it 6 in one shot.
2. If your leaves are curling upward from the leaf margin(like they are) its heat stress.If the whole leaflet curls upward from the center, its Mg deficiency.

Another thing is that I would give them their first feeding(1/4 strength) at this point.

I think your right about the damn heat issue with the leaf curling...

I discovered the problem....I just checked them and the heat was 91 degrees.....

The fan I bought to alleviate the heat problem actually made it worse by making the hot air that should be rising stayin low and swooshing around!

I tried every heighth with the light and fan combination...so last resort thought was the logical assumption that it was the damn fan. I turned it off and it dropped 7 degrees now in temp...a chilly 84.

 

[Toad]

40Amps.... let me know how it all works out because I'm having a very similar issue as shown in your pics of plants 2 and 3. The leaf curl might be temp related but those pics don't look temp related.

subscribed.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

40Amps.... let me know how it all works out because I'm having a very similar issue as shown in your pics of plants 2 and 3. The leaf curl might be temp related but those pics don't look temp related.

subscribed.

The consensus in my grow thread seems to be a ph problem + heat. Heat has been fixed and I applied cal mag half strength last night so we will see if the cal mag help.

 

[stinkyattic]

Just go easy on the pH adjustment and calmag- FFOF is already a bit hot for seedlings, depending upon strain, and you may have a nute lockout situation already. Fresh soil out of the bag is unlikely to have pH problems so soon. 1st 2 pics show residue where mineral-laden water evap'd off the leaf, it's not a problem. Plant 2 and 3 show magnesium lockout. You can do a VERY LIGHT foliar feed with a PINCH of epsom salts and a drop of dish soap in a quart spray bottle to keep it at bay until you determine the cause, or until they grow out of it (=strong enough to take the ferts inthe dirt).

 

[FreezerBoy]

Mandala seeds specifically suggests avoiding the use of Fox Farm as being too hot for seedlings. Not saying that's the problem but, something to consider.

 

[Weedninja]

Shit, I didn't realize FF was that hot. I was thinking more deficiency than lockout.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

I think I may have burned my plants a little bit? I did 1/2 strength maybe I should have done 1/4 strength. Only two have it this bad on 1 or two of their leaves though the rest are looking like the third picture or have nothing wrong with them.






I don't think I will feed them again until monday




Thanks a lot for everyones help in this thread I really appreciate it.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Mandala seeds specifically suggests avoiding the use of Fox Farm as being too hot for seedlings. Not saying that's the problem but, something to consider.

Yea, I am thinking this may be the cause. I mixed more soil for the transplant tonight that I will do saturday or sunday and instead of 3 parts ffof, 1 perlite and 1 light warrior I did 1/2 light warrior and 1/2 ffof 1 part perlite.

I will use just lightwarrior like fox farm recomends for starting seedlings next time.

Thanks a lot for that tid bit anything helps.

 

[RC_Colas]

Plants 2 and 3 are the only ones that I see with an issue, which appears to be a hot soil mixture plus unneeded nutrient feeding as others have indicated. Lay off the nutrients, just water and you may want to consider flushing the soil if it has become toxic from nutrient build up.

As for the other green and healthy looking girls in your first set of photos...that leaf curl and twisting is typical of Blueberry strains and crosses Actually, many of DJ Shorts genetics show these traits and it is a create way to confirm you have the real deal

Cheers

RC_Colas

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Alright so a little update...a little bit after I posted the pictures of the fert burn I forgot to water the damn things the next day....This proved detrimental to the lower fan leaves on some of the plants. The pots were dry as dry could get. They felt as light as paper when I picked them up.

As a response to this I flushed them and then transplanted them to bigger pots with fresh soil two days after. I have been watering with pure 6.3-6.5 ph water since then. The plants are definitely on the road to recovery but I am noticing them telling me something by the looks of their leaves.

Here are some pictures. They are getting pretty big now most of them ar 6-7 inches tall.

Here is what they are showing me now:












Here is an example of how bad I screwed 3-4 of them up just by not watering for a day. My theory is that when I gave them ferts it was a very slight over dose and they had a growth spurt...which is what caused them to run out of water so damn quick and then that lack of water compounded the over fert problem making it worse than it was because dry soil = more fert burn from what I have read as more nutes are available than water.










Questions 1: What should I do now that these lower leaves are officially roasted? Before I was told to do a light foliar spray and see if they recoup now I know they won't and I have read bad leaves like this can invite bad bugs...

Question 2: Now that they seem to have recouped pretty well after being flushed and transplanted a couple days ago when should I try feeding them AT 1/4 STRENGTH of course. (ferts would be cal mag, ff grow big, and ff big bloom)

Question 3: Whats the new yellowing problem?

 

[Weedninja]

Questions 1: What should I do now that these lower leaves are officially roasted? Before I was told to do a light foliar spray and see if they recoup now I know they won't and I have read bad leaves like this can invite bad bugs...

That's true, but so can removing them. I would leave them alone until they fall off.

Question 2: Now that they seem to have recouped pretty well after being flushed and transplanted a couple days ago when should I try feeding them AT 1/4 STRENGTH of course. (ferts would be cal mag, ff grow big, and ff big bloom)

Personally, I would just water them for a while, maybe even until they show N deficiency. Remember that you haven't just burnt the leaves, you've burnt the roots also. They need some time to heal.

Question 3: Whats the new yellowing problem?

Looks like Mg deficiency. This somewhat contradicts my last post, but maybe some foliar epsom salt would be a good choice. The cal in cal mag can actually lock out the mag, whereas epsom salt is just Mg and sulfur.

 

[stinkyattic]

By 'pure water' do you mean RO or distilled? You should be adding cal mag to that no matter what; add it until ppm=200-300. Never finish a flush with RO water alone; you need the last part of the flush to be a watering with 1/4 strength base fert, pH to about 6.7, with calmag if you run RO.

Foliar Epsom salts are a good help for your Mg def stripes!

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Foliar Epsom salts are a good help for your Mg def stripes!

I should have said I used tap water my bad, but you are definitely right on with the foliar spray! Thanks for the 1/4 nute idea when flushing at the end that sounds like good advice to me and I will do that if I ever need to flush again.

That's true, but so can removing them. I would leave them alone until they fall off.

Personally, I would just water them for a while, maybe even until they show N deficiency. Remember that you haven't just burnt the leaves, you've burnt the roots also. They need some time to heal.

Looks like Mg deficiency. This somewhat contradicts my last post, but maybe some foliar epsom salt would be a good choice. The cal in cal mag can actually lock out the mag, whereas epsom salt is just Mg and sulfur.

I went ahead last night and foliar sprayed them with epsom salts. I opened the tent this morning and wow what a difference they look way healthier. They had started to get weak stems it seemed and were slightly drooping now they have perked up considerably.

How often should I do this?


Thanks for the advice both of you very much appreciated.

 

[stinkyattic]

You should not have to do it often- Foliar feeding is mostly for when you are trying to halt the spread of symptoms while you figure out what their origin is. Put another way, it bypasses the roots until you fix lockout conditions keeping them from uptaking micros.
If you get yoru feeding sorted, you won't have to foliar feed. Until then, do a real light mist with the Epsom salts until you see that there is no more striping on the leaves that had faint signs of Mg def but not necrosis- obviously, existing scars won't heal, but the pale patches that aren't dead yet should start to green up a lot.